Then you understand the video correctly! This style of marketing (showing yourself as the expert) is designed to do precisely that. You give away enough to show how brilliant you are while equipping others to encourage community.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Great to hear!

I think your method would be removing more than desired material during the buffing stage, Unless you apply the necessary amount to make-up the difference, which cuts (no pun intended) into the bottom line during tax season.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p66me8aTtNrLY6c.html

According to the 3M website, Flexible Hookit 270J has not been discontinued. Only the trial pack was discontinued. The individual sheets are still available.

Been a year... How are you coming along with that goal?

Hoogla Boogla sometimes I get a really flat finish and can just do 1500 and then 2000. Sometimes I get a little dust nib or not so flat and have to start with 1000.

The wheels are too soft and spin to slow to burn through at the edges unless you really try. In the dozen or so years, I've used buffing machines like the one in this video, I have never had a guitar body or neck ripped out of my hands.

When you apply the clear, are you sanding between coats? Scratches left by scuff sanding can migrate up through the finish and be revealed when level sanding. Also, scratches can occur due to contamination.

@@HighlineGuitars Hey Chris, Happy Halloween. Thanks for your response. First, I do not sand between the clear coats. I shoot the base coat, wait the regulated time and then shoot the clear. I built a small 6’x6’ spray booth in my garage so it’s relatively a clean spraying environment. I use mineral spirts to wet sand with and I’m thinking maybe it was contaminated. I’m curious about the dry sandpaper you used. You showed that it doesn’t load up, and you wiped it occasionally. Do you recommend I try it? Your body came out great looking. Id like to get those kinds of results. Which dry paper do you prefer most? Again, thank you Chris for your time and advice.

I don't think it goes bad. Better ask them.

Best. Compliment. Ever.

I recommend dry sanding.

All of that info is available in the assembly guide which is available at the bottom of this page: www.eguitarplans.com/

Gotcha didn't know you paid for plans Thx

I don't refinish old instruments. I only make new ones.

No solvents are necessary since the compounds leave a dry powder. All you need is a clean soft cloth or paper towel.

My response would have been, "Anyone who likes to sand is probably psychotic and if sanding is that important to you, you're doing it all wrong."

Boom perfect

Sorry, I don’t know. I have never used a hand held electric polisher. I am considering switching from my big buffer to a hand held polisher, but I need to find one that can run from zero rpm and up. That way I could test to find the optimal speeds.

Tack cloth.

I doubt the clear coat is thick enough to sand it level.

@@HighlineGuitars Do you think the waviness is how Fender finished the wood or could it be something with the sunburst base coat underneath?

@@j_music_8779 Without seeing the guitar, I have no idea.

Try this one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/abijqsiEm7uqgZc.html

Thank you so much for your reply AND for your videos. I've that particular video several times, just wasn't sure if that's the "one". I watched your videos for about 5 hours last night and thought for sure the Boiled Linseed Oil/Mineral Spirit/Polyurethane/Japan dryer video was the one :)

Yes, it would work.

In a recent build I used Solarez grain sealer, followed by a Createx color coat and finally Crystalac Brite Tone. Turned out great!

I would recommend sanding to 3,000 grit with Super Assilex and then follow up with Norton synthetic steel wool pads (grey then white).

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks a lot!

That would be awesome. Your buffing machine is too cool.

Yes . . . Search his site. KZfaq provides a 'search engine' on his site.

I have plans and a parts list. However, liability is the unknown factor.

In my videos, I use both motions depending on the desired outcome. For speed, I use a circular motion and for the final grits, I use one direction (usually with the grain) which reduces undesirable scratches.

Check with the manufacturer if you haven't already.

A lot depends on the type of finish that was used on your guitar and how deep the scratches are. If the finish is a lacquer such as nitrocellulose, you could try rubbing out the scratches with a clean cloth and some rubbing compound (Meguiar's M110 Mirror Glaze) followed by another clean cloth and some polishing compound (Meguiar's M210 Mirror Glaze). Finish with a third clean cloth and some swirl remover (Meguiar's M9 Mirror Glaze Swirl Remover). If that doesn't do the trick, you may have to lightly wet sand the area(s) with some P2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a small rubber sanding block. Then, proceed with the rubbing compound/polishing compound/swirl remover as described. Hope this helps.

@@HighlineGuitars Makes me nervous. I might just have to accept that it's not perfect.

I don't know, it just does.

4 thin coats or 2 thick coats. Try it on scrap first to get a feel for how many coats you'll need. You may decide to apply more. Thanks for the $. Very much apprecieated.

@@HighlineGuitars I have been testing applying thin coats with mascara pad - I will apply 2 thin coats to top then to sides and back and repeat - thanks for your videos very helpful !

Well??? Anyone???

The US standard is CAMI (Coated Abrasive Manufacturers Institute). It does NOT have a "P" or any other letter in front of the grit size designation. The "P" is found of paper graded by the FEPA (Federation of European Producers of Abrasives) standard.

@@HighlineGuitars thanks, looks like your 800 grit equals to a P1500 here, this clarifys to me every thing! :)

All I can say is you have to use the same sandpaper, buffing wheels, and polishing compounds to get the same results I get.

They make products that you can use to make your own water-based paint.

SFPM (Surface Speed Per Minute) = 1/4 of the wheel diameter X the shaft speed. In my case, 1/4 of 14" is 3.5" X 1000 = 3,500 SFPM.