You got yours cleaner than mine. My only tune is a SQL tune in my car currently. I'm waiting till I replace my main amplifier before doing an SQ tune because I don't have enough wattage to have headroom on the door speakers currently to keep up with the mid/tweeter. Mine currently scoops out between 100hz and 300hz where the mid doesn't get enough power to fully drive it. The Faitalpro 3 inch drivers only need 20w so they are fine and the Morel tweeter only need 50 watts, so it's fine. The JBL I'm using in my door is a lower efficiency 6.5 inch and I may need a higher efficiency driver there and to run my subwoofer up to 140hz if I want something as clean as yours is.

Thank you man for awesome content as always. Never understood the SPL or SQL cause you damage your hearing from 80db and up.

Hey I’m looking at the Audison SR line class d amplifiers for SQL amps running some high sensitivity one audio and Steven’s components.. given I choose amps with high enough wattage do u think the Audison SR line will give me good SQ at high volumes ?

Have something in-between the both, lots of power from the Pioneer GM9701 for my sub(alpine typer w12d2) this gives 1200w at 1 ohm, Pioneer GM 9704 bridged to the fronts(focal ES K2 Power 165(2 way passive) and Pioneer GM 8604(bridged) to the rear(Focal ES165 coax), so 400w to the front components and 300w to the rear, this means lots of headroom for EQ, all running from a Alpine CDE 296BT head unit, at the mo it is completely flat with a bit of fader/sub channel balancing, there is so much power on hand, I have yet to install a Audio Dynamics DSP68 and play with EQ/time align etc, system is uber loud with so much bass but it desperately needs tuning, from initial measurements with the dayton audio IMM-6 there is massive dip at 6-700hz and the focal tweeter sound super harsh. here is the dilemma I have the One Audio T28.e and WB3.e but need to build/buy pods to take to the next level, would also love to IB some low drivers under my seats as my doors seem to be made of cling film and thus sound utter shite, man this was a long post. Do you offer a car audio rescue service??? Have all the gear and no freaking idea.... Love the vids, learn so much.

Awesome video. What's your rise at the bottom end? I was trying to see from the graph, and I'm not sure if i saw it correctly, but it looked like 20 to 25 db plus from around 300hz all the way down to 20. Is that about right? Cheers

Perfekt! Good work

Hi Raw cat I’m new to this car audio . I have built a 3 way active system in front and 2 way active in rear with sub in dicky on my own . Before to start the tunning in dsp Now I have the doubt in setting gain in my amplifiers . I have played 1khz in head unit and checked its distortion level/ volume in SMD DD1 . Now the volume level is fixed For setting amp gain , should I adjust the gain level until it distorts in amplifier or should I use the dsp also to set the required gain

Great info as always! The EQ window, is that the REW EQ? If so, how do you export the settings to the Helix retaining all parameters? And how are you able to see the results in real time? Thanks! Leo

Let's hear it!!!!

Hello, what do you prefer. Amplifier for subwoofer Class D or Class AB.

YEAH TO MUCH EQ TAKES THE LIFE RIGHT OUT OF THE SOUND .NICE VIDEO

Do you have recommendations for a target curve for SQL? My sub plays up to 149dB and plays 20-80Hz. I've already EQd my whole setup with the Whitledge target, but still had to lower the 1-20kHz region like 3dB, not to make my ears bleed... Should I also take down the 300-1000Hz region as much to get more of a natural sound at the loudest? It currently sounds good but there's something off with it.