I’m a heavy boy too so I’m copying

They’re both going to copy your bike set up regardless of what you say lol

Damn ,I'm 6' 2 250 😂 ,I always get big tyres to save the stress on everything and all is sweet 🤠🤟🙏

Cush Core was a game changer in many ways, but one of the main benefits was I could ride lower PSI. You gotta try it!! Ride 35 up front and 32 in the rear and you will get so much more performance from your tires. 6’2 330

@@ianmangham4570 hey can you explain a little? Newbie 6’0 270 lbs rider here. Thanks

It does nothing to increase performance though

@@james-hb5tu Yup, DOT fluid is DOT fluid, it doesn't matter who made it (bike brand or automotive brand) as its designed to meet exactly the same specification. Obviously there are differences between DOT 4 and 5.1 (and other types) but DOT 4 for a car is the same as DOT 4 for a bike etc.

@@sandy_knight I think 5.1 has a slightly higher boiling point than DOT 4 and DOT 3

You can also use motocycle fork oil in mtb forks if it matches the specs :) Most of bike related fluids are just automotive fluids repacted into different bottles and sold for twice the price

@@james-hb5tu No

Can you elaborate on the TRP brakes part? What makes them better?

@@kingflynxi9420 I should say specifically the trail evo or dhr evo. They’re just the most powerful and most resistant to fade. They’re easy to bleed like shimano, but more consistent (no wandering bite point), have a ton of power, and pads are easy to find. They also use 2.3mm thick rotors which helps a lot with heat dissipation and fade resistance

@@kingflynxi9420 they feel way better and have more power. Most high end brakes work much better than codes. Hayes, hope, trp, magura they all are so much nicer

I am shop manager in Bentonville Arkansas and I weigh 215 pounds, and everything this man has said is dead accurate. If you can run coil, do it, it’s more reliable and better for heavy guys.

I can confirm the TRP statement. I’ve run them all (Hope, Magura, Grimeca, recently Codes) the TRP DH-EVO are expensive but damn, so powerful, look awesome, super easy to bleed…far better than the codes I took off.

Same, my only issue is that I constantly seem to start breaking those wheels nut I guess I just need this cushion he mentioned

chucky riders rule !!!! i am 155kg and back on a bike after 40 years !!

Believe me, it is possible. Start easy and smooth. Whistler bikepark is not the goal for beginners. Have fun and everything else comes over the time.

Right there with ya 😂

What set up do you run? I'm looking to get a hard tail as my first mtb and looking for a good setup that won't break the bank.

Yep I'm average @ 5'8

and buy a low leverage ratio bike! this frame is one of the worst for big guys haha

@@fat.chance low leverage 29ers don't exist. the low leverage rate recommendation is also for riders who don't get sendy. With modern air shocks and progressive rate coils I would actually suggest a cascade linked big travel bike. Stacking a super linear bike with spacers just makes for a bike that is super choppy off the top and will clap HARD on big hits, I can attest to this as a 250lb rider on a Ripmo, cascade link made a huge difference for me.

@fat.chance what's a good medium frame gravel bike to reccomend for a short 300lb rider?

There are a few frame builders out there that build frames specifically for very large/very tall riders, they're generally hardtails, but a good fitting hardtail will probably be great vs riding a bike that may be too small if this friend is very tall

@@mrvwbug4423 We found a bike from a custom frame builder. Connected with him through some friends but your totally right! His bike did actually end up being a Hardtail

What bike did you buy ?

enduro are bigger then trail? I'm 6"5 240 lbs trying to choose first mtb budget

I wonder how his stumpy evo is set up in comparison. It is a VERY linear frame that is usually the opposite of what a large rider wants. As a 250lb rider I find that I have to be particular about how progressive the rear linkage (I prefer VERY progressive back ends like what you see on Knollys or Rocky Mountain) is or get a cascade link which my current bike has. At his weight he's pushing the design limits of the shock, where I only need to run 280psi in my shock despite the higher leverage ratio of the cascade link

I ran TMACs for a couple of years and actually broke a spindle on one just pedaling up out of a wash, was fixed under warranty with zero issues. My shins aren't fans of TMACS haha. I just switched to the PNW Loam pedal and the platform is just as big as the TMAC but I find the pins grip better and I get less pedal strikes. However the PNW pedal is lighter than the TMAC and I might wonder if they would hold up to a 300+lb rider. I'm 250lbs and have no concerns.

@mrvwbug44 had a pretty big rock strike with the tmacs that bent the crank arm but the pedal barley got s scratch lol

@@jonnysnakes5417 Yeah, mine look like they went through a war zone, the spindle was definitely a weird failure. Though I'm finding with the PNWs that the people who claim "pins work better than grub screws" on flats may actually be onto something. The feel of the PNWs is better than the TMACs.

How much did it run you?

Similar size to you, there's ton of pumps between 350-400 psi. Check out fox pumps, but there's many. I run DT Swiss EX511/ 350 hubs with comp spokes and never have issues. If EX rims aren't enough get DT Swiss FR 541 rims, and always, always 32 spokes Front/Rear FR541 rear and EX511 front maybe the perfect combo for you. Last but not least, find the best wheel builder!

I find that if I have to stay on top of my spoke tension otherwise I break off the heads of the spokes normally on the non drive side of the rear wheel. The Blackburn digital pump is rated for 350 psi.

some specific bike shop pumps are rated to 600psi, im sure your lbs has one of these

That is good to know about the shock pumps. Mine only goes to 300 and I need it to go just past that. Otherwise have too much sag for my bike.

Be cool if he got the opposite, hey? Fox (or RS, or any other suspension team) reaching out to him with a bespoke shock designed and built for his weight. That would be awesome! I really hope it happens. Friggen sweet that there are true Clydesdales out there shredding like champions 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻

I know guys at 300lbs running sub 25 psi. Just need to have a good rims.

@@christiandruan sounds sketchy. I tested 25 PSI front and rear and I started breaking spokes left and right in the rear. I mostly ride chunk rocks with hard pack dirt (most year round) so I had to bump up to 30 PSI in the rear. I do not have Cushcore

His rims won't survive it. Roval Traverses are a trail rim. If he had DT Swiss FR541s or FR560s or EX511s maybe. At 250lbs I killed 2 Ibis S35s in a year at the bike park and that is a burlier rim than the Rovals, I now run FR560s and am pretty much DH or Freeride rims for life at this point.

Exactly this, too many buy a special brand because everyone else have one. I did the same until I did my homework!

Yup! The Specialzied Enduro's leverage ratio is ~10% higher than most bikes in that category, which means it requires ~10% higher shock pressure to achieve the same amount of sag / support. It also means it requires a ~10% firmer compression tune. Not a great option for heavy riders.

Good rule of thumb is to divide the amount of rear wheel travel by the stroke of the shock to get a rough idea of the leverage ratio of the bike. Lower is better for extremely heavy riders.

It is strange to me that no one is making and marketing big and tall bikes (of all types), considering how fat so many people in the US are.

That's the problem with your country. Last place medals

This guy would need like a 1300lb spring with the cascade link haha

The Specialized Enduro is already pretty progressive out back, and you have to bump up your spring rate a bit when you go with a cascade link, on my Ripmo I had to add 20psi to the air shock, but it was totally worth it as I was able to pull two spacers out of the air shock (from 5 to 3 on the DVO Topaz). TL;DR it's better to get your suspension progression from the linkage vs the shock

@@ChewyWookiee Probably around a 900-1000lb. At 250lbs I would run a 700 linear or 675 progressive rate with a cascade linked coil bike.

You're also on a Knolly frame and they're probably the best of the best for big riders because they are about as progressive as progressive gets

Yes to this ! But add in Commencal 😅

Thats quite the surprise tbh, I am well into the 265lbs range but for 20% sag I only need to run 230 PSI on my rochshox monarch RT

@@mmdaddct5351 on a e-bike dengfu , don't know if it makes a difference, but even at these pressure, the fox float dps is still not working properly, at the end it act like a hard tail.

Send it in to get valved for your weight and riding style. The clickers on suspension products are made for people who fall inside of a pretty narrow band of "average" weight riders. Exception being something like the Fox X2, but that's a whole other can of worms and tuning always ends up compromised on those IMO. Stiff is good if it means "supportive" but not so much if it means "lacks sensitivity." If you feel like you lack sensitivity then you will greatly benefit from a custom valving mentioned above. Something that can also make the bike feel stiff or harsh on the trail is lack of rebound damping. With higher spring rates, a rebound revalve is almost always required. You'd be amazed in how much difference having the extra high-speed rebound damping makes. At least one advantage heavier riders have is that in air-sprung suspension we are fighting against seal friction a lot less than lighter riders!

Same stats here. Best fork upgrade I made was a negative air spring upgrade to offset the higher pressures. Brings the plushness back. Running MRP kit on a fox 36

yeah, as 266lbs guy i do run 27psi front, 29psi rear with cushcore and thats perfect for rough bikeparks. i can't imagine that you need so much more PSI

I been reading about doing this since that's what I use to run in my sport bike for track days. How does it combat brake fade and boiling? I am 230 and smoke my brakes at the bike park on a regular.

@@corsaroc Well you have 2 sources for brake fade.. Pads and Fluid. The system transfers heat to the fluid so once that begins to boil you get air in the lines and lose pressure, in turn fade. So the higher boiling point of RBF helps there. It doesnt give stronger brakes just more fade resistant. 2 you can overheat the pads and they fade.SO a good pad for higher temps is key like metallic/sintered. Pads and Fluid are compliments to the system. I dont weigh that much so I dont experience fade in the park.

I commented nearly the same😆

@@chrisjones7281 Thanks for the info. I do think my issue is the boiling. Fresh bleeds on the brakes and they are good for 2 park days then are soft. Granted most of the summer was 90+ when we were at the park but I got into the habit of bleeding after the second day. I don't remember what pads I switched to last but they were the metallic/sintered ones with the cooling fins which seemed to help ( might have been in my head).