In Japan, the sushi chefs soak the stone in water before sharpening. All the air bubbles have to be out of the stone before they begin sharpening.

Thanks exactly the way I'm going to do mine I just bought a new Moro/Morakniv Companion Fixed Blade.

Biiiig hands, I've never seen mora knife looks so little in hands like a toy. Great video for work. I sharpened my mora into zero but thought to do micro bevel

Thanks for the Vid, viewing in 2020 and I have the same stone just purchased it in august of 2019. Try stropping on a piece of cardboard sometime. It is actually Works VERY well and it saves your belt.

great video man... simple and effective. I mastered my ax sharpening skills now I have to master knife sharpening. Thanks for the good information.

Great video, great knife. I use to sharpen moras (scandi/sabre grinds in general) in my favourite shallow scandivex/sabrevex grind getting rid of that bold shoulder giving them slightly convexed bevel with my wet stones finishing with leather strop. No micro bevel. Zero convex. It holds sharp edge better, and glide easier when it comes to feather sticking, deboning games, and dressing fishes. It also baton better because of less drag and friction. It takes a little more time and effort the very first time but compensates with future sharpening easiness, and way better quality in action.

Thanks for sharing. Mora makes good knives.

I loved my Mora's, now to learn how to sharpen them....great video my friend. I've used the wet stone but haven't used a belt to finish it up. I'm practicing with an old Ust knife so I don't mess up my Mora doing this wrong lol

Awesome vid.. Just picked up a Mora!Thank you sir!

Great video! Been sharpening for a few years now but have never attempted the skandi grind. Great detail!! You mentioned not being able to strop on your fabric belt. Give it a shot some time. I'll strop on anything that's abrasive from a 2x4, a raw branch, I've used my 1050D fabric on my back pack before in a pinch. And believe it or not it's all worked for me!

Nice video. I'll be getting a Mora soon as I've heard a lot of good things about them.

great demonstration

Thanks for the video. Very good instructions.

For strop i use a piece of an old leather belt,and i smear some stropping compound on the coarse side of it, also i've punched two holes in the extremes and past two rope loops to hang the strop on a tree, and strop anywhere in the field

Great video! Thank you for the instructions. Another similar video the guy says to strop on a flat surface or risk putting a microbevel the scandi grind. I'm asking because I want your thoughts before I buy a cheap used belt at Goodwill and mount it to a 1" x 4" board.

Consider a honing rod. I was a butcher for a long time and a honing steel will extend your sharpening intervals enormously. I sharpened for 20 years on a Norton tri stone with 100, 200 and 400 grit stones. I mostly just used 100 grit and stropped with news paper laying on top of the stone. Before I learned why we strop I noticed the more I used my honing steel after sharpening, the sharper it got...then I learned why. The steel removed the burr. And that toothy 100 grit edge would cut ribeyes in one push pull stroke. Also, in the field you can roll down your window and hone on the edge of the glass....it will straighten your edge out. What most consider a dull knife that needs a touch up really just had an edge that's leaning over from use.

Ok, Black Squirrel, I like this video - it was just what I need - so I subbed, Keep'em coming new friend!

Thanks for the video it was very helpful.

Hey there. I think your stone would load up less if you kept it wetter. That way you wont have so much metal buildup on the stone and it will cut faster. Great job all the same

Great vid. Thanks Don't need to lap that stone? There's a lot of metal in yours. I usually lap mine, but my stones are cheaper.

very informative review,and you seem really chill i wish you were my grandpa :)

Great video.

Thank you so much for this! 😊🙏🏼

Thank you sir I enjoyed that

7:25 would the friction actually make enough heat to take the roll of metal off the knife?

Good video, but you gotta cut some paper/hair/etc. at the end.

Nice video!!!

great video my friend.. i just happened upon your channel..

Only point I have is you need to clean the steel off your stone first or it leaves scratches on it apart from that great video God bless you and your family xpeacex

The way I look at it is if it will dull your knife it will strop it.

I don't sharpen my Mora knives very often. I use a steel to restore the edge after use. When they need more than that I use wet/dry sandpaper on a glass smooth surface. I finish by stopping on a leather strop impregnated with polishing compound. I've never felt the need for expensive stones. But, as the man said, hike your own hike.

I have the same stone, have you noticed that the 1000 grit side is smoother than the 3000

Water stone, not whetstone. "Whet" stone has nothing to do with water. A "whetstone" means a stone you sharpen on. Basically, there are water stones, oilstones, and whetstones. Very high dollar Japanese water stones may be the best. Chinese water stones are usually not very good. Arkansas Oilstones are the best natural stone by far. The strop and strop compound you use are critical. It may not matter much with a Mora, but what many don't understand is that sharpness is secondary. If you know what you're doing, you can put a razor edge on a knife with sandpaper, with a rock, or with a concrete block. But you would never do this with a quality knife that you love because you'll rapidly ruin the geometry of the edge, and if you do this for very long, you'll either have to regrind the blade, or buy a new knife. Or, as with many who really don't know a great deal about knives, you won't even notice something has gone wrong.. Your knife just won't cut as well as it once did, and it won't sharpen as easily. I greatly prefer Arkansas Oilstones. Good ones aren't cheap, but they're a third the price, maybe less, of good Japanese Oilstones, they put an equal edge on a knife, and they're a lot less messy to use. With proper care, they also last many times as long. Your stone needs a good cleaning, and you need to use a good slurry stone with it, or you won't have a stone much longer. That is the most destructive way you can strop a knife. In the first place, you only hang a strop if you're stropping a convex edge. If your knife is not convex, stropping with a hanging strop turns it into one, and ruins the sharpening job you just did. Second, belt leather is junk, regardless of what KZfaq videos says. Third, unless you use stropping compound of the right brit, you're just wasting your time. Millions of peole seem to think bare leather works. It does not. Period. The reason strops have a bare leather side, including professional barber strops, is to CLEAN the tiny particles of steel and strop compound off the razor or knife once you're through stropping. If you want to use bare leather, go ahead, but it takes more than four hours of stropping with leather to do the same job stropping for thirty seconds with green strop compound does. Buy a real strop, and use real strop compound. You're damaging your knife each time you use a hanging strop, and each time you use a belt with no compound. In fairness, I might not know this is I hadn't sharpened knives professionally for a while, but there are excellent, PROFESSIONAL knife sharpeners on KZfaq, and I don't mean some goober whose friends think he's just wonderful, and he should darned sure charge people for doing it. It means people who earn a living sharpening knives and other edged toolls, who have been doing so for many years, and who didn't learn what they know from KZfaq videos. At any rate. Clean your stone, and buy a better Japanese stone, if you can, or go with quality Arkansas Oilstones. You don't need four thousand or higher grit, you just need good water stones, or good oilstone. With Oilstones, get a 600, an 800, a 1000, and a 2000, which really means a soft, a medium hard, a hard, and an extra hard, which means a black or a translucent, depending on where it was cut. And whatever you do, but a real strop that uses real strop leather firmly glued down, and buy real stropping compound. Buy three grits, and learn how to use them. Practice with cheap knifes. Even a Mora costs more than the knives you should learn with. Go to a Goodwill, go to any thrift store you can find. Buy five dollar kitchen knives at Walmart. Run the edge of these knives over a file to make them really, really dull, and then sharpen and strop them until they easily shave hair.

Hi great video! Really informative! I just wonder wich is the rough side of the stone the 3000 or the 1000? (Sorry for bad english)

roll up a belt and keep it in your pack like I do it won't take up a lot of space

Nice mag extension on that mora haha

I'm really struggling with my Mora Robust. With the extra thick blade the bevel changes to a steeper angle towards the tip. I can not get it really well in one stroke down the full length of the bevel. I can do the main part well, but when the angle gradually changes it goes all weird.

can I do it till I need glasses

Scandi = Scandinavian grind zero micro bevel

No need to soak a stone with such a high grit or it'll crack easier. You only need to wet the sharpening surface or dip it in water but no soaking. Lower grits are coarser and more porous so they soak up more water anyway but dry out faster also because of the pores.

I works for you, but it is so wrong.

Another person sharpening a knife pushing the knife blade into the stone rather than away, risking digging the knife into the stone. I won’t be doing what you did.

Mora Knives are throwaway junk. Buy better from sweden's eastern neighbour. Buy Puukko. From Finland.