Thank you!!

That is definitely the fun part!

Thank you!! The air leaks and jetting are good maintenance, if it's just a little bit of 4 stroking, not a huge deal to be a touch rich at the top, but if it's excessive good to downjet, the Dellorto SHA on the Garelli will be a little more straightforward. The timing however is a different ballgame since the flywheel isn't 360 degrees in circumference, but if it's a NOI engine you should have timing marks on the flywheel and case, .35 - .45 should get you there according to the manual and this thread: www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?6,3172860

Glad you liked it this was a fun one!

Thank you! I wish, one day I will buy a cranks pipe and it will be glorious. This is a treats "Puch Pipe" that came on another bike I bought. It is this pipe but a different color: www.treatland.tv/puch-black-pipe-p/puch-pipe-black.htm

Np, same here and at the moment can only wish for a crankspipe :) Thank you for the link, that treats puch pipe is a good price and looks like the expansion chamber is huge. I noticed that vespa in the background too :) Whats the story on that thing? btw excellent timing tutorial and very helpful as always. @TravisTutorial

​@@Putt-Putt-Vroom Much appreciated! The timing threw me off since everything is backwards compared to every e50 ever I've worked on so it helps me to write things out. So that is a early 1980s Vespa 100 sport small frame. I made a video on it a little bit ago, that will be the primary focus soon. It's an oddball, they only sold these for a few years, the model was getting "closer" to the end of manual shift 2T scooters in America, one of the last before the Japanese scooter invasion. This one has some performance parts from the early 2000s so it's been fun to dig into. It runs and rides but the enormous Dellorto SHA 19.19 needs a little tuning, an air leak fixed, and I bought a nice CDI for reliability. Always wanted one of these (I wasn't picky it just fell into my lap!) just to mess around with for a bit

I had no idea the timing was reversed. Very rare scoot and i always liked the 2t vespas. I missed a complete mid 60s vespa a couple years ago for $300 and haven't seen a good price on one since. I will have to look for you video on it. The scooter cannonball looks fun :) @@TravisTutorial

Thank you! I'm just glad it all worked after reassembly

Flipping the 2nd gear clutch, which is a good idea whenever you build up a ZA for the later shift time. Cornped (who is also doing a ZA50 right now) covered it here at 5:40 in his video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a8h5qLWHr5ynl2g.html

I did regear both sprockets to 19 x 37, but the ZA50 is a different ballgame to an e50 (guessing that is what you have since you mention the jammer clutch). For e50 gearing there is this nice thread with the old heads discussing as well as the gearing calculator: www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,3719675 toolbox.martysgarage.info/ Assuming the rest of the bike is sorted out okay, you're more likely to be held back by the type of exhaust you have - what pipe are you running?

Hey Mitch! The Clinton 50-A and the Safari Turbo right? I moved out to the west coast a few years ago but visit from time to time. I have a Honda Spree scooter in storage I'll be selling next time I'm back but that's really the last bike there.

⁠@@TravisTutorialheck of a memory!! That’s exactly it!

No plans as of right now, I'm actually pretty happy how it is stock, revs nice and shifts smooth enough - there is a rabbit hole of info on MopedArmy about messing with it though

@@TravisTutorial I put a HPI mini rotor ignition on my ZA and had to adjust idle way up to avoid dying at stop lights because of the extra light flywheel. Super crisp throttle response and take off but my fist gear clutch is engaging and the bike wants to roll forward, I got to hold it back till the green light changes. I bought the treats yellow spring to try out and man it’s a bitch to change. The flywheel inertia to keep the engine idling is just not there anymore so I’m hoping to save my first gear clutch pads with this mod. Car people have the same problem when they machine weight off the flywheel. I’ve done this before on VW air cooled engines, it was fun but same problem occurred. Not as a big a problem with a manual trans though. Sit in neutral at stoplights.

@@moldiebrownie Gotcha! Have you considered adding the weight to the HPI in order to balance it out with the first gear clutch? I haven't owned one myself but everyone in my local community who has the HPI also buys the weight www.treatland.tv/HPI-mini-rotor-flywheel-weight-300-grams-p/rvs-plate-2ten-210v257.htm

@@TravisTutorial Yes I’ve read read on MA about balancing the weights and since I thought I needed a little more mass on the super light HPI flywheel to lower my idle rpms and keep the bike from lurching forward at stop lights, I bought and installed it, loctited the three bolts of course. Don’t want that little death wheel spinning down the road without me. I was able to lower the idle rpms but first gear clutch was still engaging, just not as bad as before. Also it developed a bog on take off whereas before it never had it with no weight. I read a lot about changing the first gear spring, vise grips method, heard it can damaged the pads so passed on that method. Moped Luau and his awesome cone method that everybody is jealous of, but I’m too lazy to gather the pieces. I came up with my own technique. I screwed the center toothed hub to my wooden workbench with a wood screw and a fat washer, then assembled the three pad segments around it. You can get the yellow Tomos spring about half way on. Then took two more wood screws and some small rectangular metal pieces and screwed those down over the springs. I managed to use one more washer to screw down over the spring a little further on. Then used two flat head screw drivers to pry the spring in place. Holy crap I did it! Then used moped Luau’s recommendation for 415 chain master links. One difference from him though, I kept the closed ends towards the center. I figure they are more secure that way and also saw that tip in MA. Slapped it all together and wow it rips! No more bog in take off, slips nice off the line and I hit 54 today. I was able to further reduce my idle so no lurching forward at stop lights. Super happy now.

@@moldiebrownie That's incredible! I fought adding/removing the spring on a Tomos A35 but the ZA50 sounds much more intense. I've seen the MopedLuau's posts on his blog he seems like a real wizard with some of that stuff. So you added the spring and kept the weight? Or did you just do the spring? 54 is nice and blasty!