LOL!!

@@proknifesharpening My beard just birthed an eagle.

@@proknifesharpening wow and all this time, i thought nuclear supremacy and the willingness to engage in war for LITERALLY NO REASON WHATSOEVER was what made us great.... the more you know...

No heartstrings cut Uncle Randy is still going strong with his Buck, sharpened on mugs and windows, livin life. His laughing at dopes like us with more money yet poor AF because of massive knife collections that won't look great when they appear on the news one day when our unbalanced lives implodes and Uncle Randy bags our partners after he impresses them that he isn't a knife tool ; p

😂 so true.

Nice story, you really should get into sharpening, the type of edge you described on your leatherman i can put on every knife, im not saying this to brag but rather as encouragement as it is a wonderful feeling that makes you love knives even more... but i have had few decades of practice now.... but if you want easy and kinda cheap way to sharpen get the Spyderco sharpmaker... most factory edges that are almost there can get razor sharp with just few passes on the sharpmaker. And sharpening serrated blades on it is even easier.

Knife collectors who are afraid of sharpening are crazy. It's like buying a car and being afraid to change the oil.

Well said. Rope is not meat. And I want a softer steel not just for resilience, but for ease of sharpening. Maintenance friendly.

Exactly. I can smell carbon steel, even in carbon damascus. Can smell it in cutted food too. But only fresh cut. Love D2 steel, even if it is very hard to resharpen. But in newer steels, s30v is good to resharpen, s90v is hell. You can do well with "tormek" or so, but in the hand, old fashion 1095 (or 14260) steel is very nice. You can resharpen it with river stone, or the bottom of ceramic cup or plate.

Agree to disagree but if that’s how you feel I prefer vanax

Magnacut doesn't required any special setup to sharpen. If all you want is a good working edge and you haven't thrashed the blade, 10 minutes on a diamond plate can get you back yo a really solid edge.

If you're gotta upgrade steels you need to also update your sharpening techniques. Just a ceramic rod or a small diamond stone maxmet wouldn't be that hard to touch up if you know how. Though steels are getting very advanced and i can see your point.

Magnacut is the first of a new class of steel. Magnacut will soon be the shittiest of its class.

​@@bobjohnson1633yeah ummm, the OP literally said exactly that.

I can carry my K390 camping, hiking, work and fishing and never having to sharpen it.

If you ever use it any it will need to be sharpened just facts man

@@diezelvh4133 you will break it someday , the harder they get the more brittle they are.

@@Dan-Commando The whole point of the modern super steel is they can make it hard without making it brittle. Super hard brittle steel has been around forever. You just don't temper it and it'll be glass hard even if it's just 440c or something.

Epic!

That's the Buck Smoke Jumper, made by SB Blades. It's a shame Buck no longer works with SB. One of the best blades to come from there was the Titan Buck 110, made with blue micarta and s90v drop point blade.

That comment right there is the primary reason I put all of my super steel blades in a box. 1095, 5160, 154CM, 420HC and 440C work and are easy to sharpen when you are deep in the mountains backpacking or hunting. I just sharpened my 1/4" 650 Nighthawk on a Worksharp pocket sharpener in a couple of minutes. Goes through paper with just the weight of the blade.

The Bucks shown here in this video didn't seem "very affordable".

@@Ruger44Redhawk I made my camping knife-machete 10 inches blade of 1095 and im super happy with it. it didnt cost me a fortune and plenty of guys i meet on the field even asked me to make one for them but its a 1 of 1 design.

@@justinw1765 They're still using the cheapest knife steel.

I think the differences between whatever steel is actually being used in production knives matters less than just about anything else about the thing, including how it's designed, and the end user. In my experience, even as poorly designed as so many edc knives are, the companies making them generally know better than your average end user. I think a lot of end users foolishly hyper focus on things that aren't especially relevant like largely because most of them struggle to actually sharpen anything. Which blows my mind but I'm finding it's true. It's insane to me how many folks make a big deal out of sharpening. I'm not sure if there's a lot of disabled folks or maybe everyone on social media is 13.

@@jeffhicks8428 My Dad taught me how to freehand sharpen my Victorinox when I was about 11. I used a small but decent stone he handed down and learned there. Still have the knife and the stone and that was over 3 decades ago. I think I take for granted the value of this until I touch someone else’s edge.

@@jeffhicks8428 There is definitely this unwarranted fear of sharpening out there. I think some people make the assumption that if they take their blade and put it on a stone they will somehow ruin their knives forever…not sure where this thought originated, but I hope people understand how important and necessary of a skill it is if you carry and use your knives daily.

@@NedKnives I couldn't agree more that it's an important skill...it doesn't come easy for us all. My brother in law picked up a Alpha Hunter White Knight for 250 because someone destroyed the edge.

@@lowowl that's awesome man, I wish my dad would have been interested in knives like I was. I taught myself how to freehand sharpen, and it took hundreds of hours to get micro consistent, as in plus/minus 0.5-1 degree. Now I have thousands of hours of experience and I enjoy it as a pass time, it's almost therapeutic to me, especially when I'm stropping

You, sir, are a monster.

Magnacut would probably actually be okay. It would take a while but its fine grain should make it at least possible. The carbides would get kinda mangled but that's just how it is. Maxamet like that would drive any man insane.

@@Freakmaster480 "a while" (aw) = 5 forevers (f) or one never (n). So, sharpening super steel x coffee mug = 1n.

Yep I remember as a kid how long it took to get good at sharpening knives. At that time, the 1970's it was mostly 420 or 440c or some type of carbon steel. I have lots of knives and I've played around with the super steels and have the equipment to deal with them. Honestly I'd rather use simple steels. I still love 1095 on traditional knives. On more modern knives I like 154 CM, S30V or XHP. I like steel that I can sharpen quickly on a Sharpmaker. If its too hard for the Sharpmaker I generally wont buy it. I think a lot of these guys today cant sharpen so they like the harder steels because they can use them for a long time before they get dull, then they pay someone to sharpen it for them.

Good point. I'd be interested to see as well. But I would prefer if it were manual stropping as opposed to his tormek stropping wheel.

Agreed. Good idea. Mimics real usage…

mh so you mean sharpening in between? Strops with compound on basically give you a new edge

So many things would be relevant before the differences in abrasive resistance between those steels, like say the geometry of the given knives, and the heat treatment used on each of those steels. I'll take a better designed knife with a less abrasive resistant steel over a sharpened pry bar made of rex121 or whatever silliness folks get foamy over any day. If you want a knife that cuts a lot of rope you want a steel that most of all is tough and able to get quite hard, therefore it can be made thin and will keep cutting. However, It would be interesting to compare say 64 rc magnacut to 64 rc aebl assuming the knives were optimally designed, and see how that works out, with or without touchups on the way. I think most folks would be surprised how little the difference in abrasive resistance between these steels matters at that point. What you're going to find in actual use is that any steel you use will eventually get dull and need to be resharpened. The question is, then what? If you can't even maintain the thing without special abrasives, that's kinda an issue you need to be aware of for one thing. The question becomes how does the edge wear vs how does it sharpen. I feel like folks who either don't know how or are afraid to try to sharpen knives are the ones who obsess over "edge retention" when what they really mean is abrasion resistance anyhow. Edge retention is a lot more complicated than just abrasive wear. If you're rolling over or chipping out at the edge, that's not really "retention" either is it? What about what kind of edge a given steel will take in the first place? What if a steel can hold a keen edge 2x as long as another but it takes 4x as long to sharpen when they do go dull? Which is "better?"

@@martinerhard8447 nomenclature/semantics aside, sure stropping is a form of sharpening. Im talking the difference of stropping quick to get a finer edge back after minor deformation/dullness/wear vs breaking out the stones/guided system and doing a full re sharpen.

The Bucks place is in the drawer not the bin, unused, just as a piece of history.

There. Thanks.

aebl similar to 14C28N more toughness but less edge retention

Check the spreadsheet in the description. Outpost76's channel also links a spreadsheet comparing test results from several sources.

my buck 110 is in 420HC and never had a SINGLE issue with it , still working strong and im sure im using it more than your Magnacut one and i didnt break the piggy.

@@Dan-Commando Not a single issue? So it's never gone dull? If you use a 420c blade every day and you haven't sharpened it once then I hate to break it to you but that thing is either dull as a railroad spike or you never actually use it for anything. If you have been sharpening it then you definitely sharpen way more than anybody with a magnacut blade.

Which model is this? I have a pm2, 3, and sage and they’re great. That super sucks. If it was a workhorse manix lw or something I’d definitely regrind it to thinner and more centered

@@lindboknifeandtool It's a PM2. If I did a regrind, I think it would shorten the blade to try and get it out. It has a slight curve from thumb hole to tip. I never noticed it stock, because somehow they managed to get it centered in the factory configuration. Slap on the aftermarket scales, off center. When you sight down the blade it's obvious. So, just giving my PSA to sight the spine of any Maxamet blade before you commit. The trouble is, even if I could get it to center up better, I know it's there and it bugs me that it's not perfect! Lol.

Keep a ceramic around for honing 🙃

The best thing about magnacut steel when properly heat treated, it has great edge retention and is a great all-around worry free steel - that offers pretty good toughness, excellent corrosion resistance, fairly easy sharpening on a variety of stones, and of course it's close to ultimate tier edge retention. Maxamet is a use specific steel: An ultimate tier in edge retention for long durations of softer cutting and slicing tasks, in less corrosive environments and no hard impacts or flexing hard use tasks. It's great for those cutting tons of certain cloth, tape, rope, nylon strapping, soft plastics/woods, rubber parts and cardboard.

@@TheScotchaholic I guess tungsten carbide's (Sandrin) intended use is the same as Maxamet's. The way I used it, I'm kinda surprised it didn't break. It's really flexible and even survived a fall on hard ground. But yeah, good luck getting that sharp again...

@NoNamer123456789 According to Sandrin, their proprietary tungsten carbide mix, enables it to be a bit more durable than the standard industry tungsten carbide. And, you're right, sharpening will be no walk in the park. There should be some helpful video sharpening notes and advice on KZfaq. Good luck, man. Sharpening Maxamet wasn't that bad, but still more time consuming even with quality Ultra Sharp 600/1200 diamond bench stones. I don't know about sharpening Sandrin's tungsten carbide, since I didn't buy one, nor do I want the grief, heh.

@@TheScotchaholic for me it wasn’t bad just time consuming. Although I can’t justify it when K390 is 80% as good and twice or three times as easy to sharpen.

@nandayane Lol, I'll bet the Sandrin is very time consuming. More time consuming than Maxamet or ZDP-189 I'll bet. Call me spoiled with pleasant experiences and results with great mid tier beater stainless steels like S35VN, AUS8/10A, 8/9/10CR, and 14C28N - all at more reasonable prices and solid all around performance. Magnacut is looking to be my new favorite high tier all-around stainless. Agreed with the K390 - Cheers!

Not to mention that they may chip the blade on bone which would be a major headache to grind out on a steel like maxamet.

They use cheap blades that are basically disposables and they go through them in a fast pace with agressive sharpening methods Where you can find the higher grade steels is with chefs but then not on beater knives that get in contact with frozen food or bone

@@martinerhard8447 The Butchers, Farmers and pro Fishermen, I know personally, here in New Zealand, prize their knives equipped with very thin, good quality, often German or Japanese, HC stainless steel blades, I agree theyre relatively soft, making them tough and easy to brush up on a steel or strop, sure they wear out and theyre not that expensive, but I wouldn't describe them as cheap, or disposable. A coupe of local companies; Victory Knives NZ and Svord make some good examples

@@dougbulldog9947 Then the butchers you know dont butcher a lot. Butchers in industry butcher so much that the wear on the knife is so high that the knives dont last very long. They use stainless blades with grippy plastic handles that can be steam sterilized. Take a look at the giesser primeline series to know what I mean. They are intended to be cheap disposables so they can be replaced easily. Doesnt make sense to get a 50$+ knive in a field where it wont last a month My family has a cattle farm so I know quite a lot of butchers and the uncle of my gf is a fisherman that is famous enough that he constantly appears in fishing magazines. But he isnt a lineworker at a fishfarm and only butchers a small percent of the fish that those guys butcher daily.

tbh magnacut at not too crazy HRCs is fairly easy to sharpen due to the fine carbide structure. Ceramic rods or synthered ruby does work or little diamond field sharpeners. You do not need a lot longer

Buck is known for really milking 420hc for everything it's worth.

I'd kind of like to see this too. I like to think of price as the 4th category of steel performance alongside corrosion resistance, edge retention and toughness.

420HC is basically a lower carbon version of the 14C28N/13C26/12C27 range of Sandvik steels. Very simple with virtually no carbides. Budget knife 14C28N will generally be harder (but still very easy to sharpen due to lack of carbide), a little less tough and a little more stainless than 420HC. It's a straight upgrade IMO.

@@mikeobrien4081 Vastly so! KnifeMaker

Sharpening maxamet isn’t really even that hard. It takes a nasty edge

Look at his play list, he has done them.