The vertical failure wouldn't have anything to do with the 3" downspout pour rainwater on the outside edge washing out your base? Huh. Been doing landscape and hardscape and irrigation for 25 years. I think you missed the elephant in the room. People, make sure to extend your drainage at least 10 feet down grade from your structure. This will save you costly repairs in the future.

1. Bedding sand between 0.75 and 1.0 inches thick 2. Use the right edge restraints 3. Polymeric sand in between pavers

I've been watching your stuff for a while now. I'm a road maintenance Foreman just starting a small landscape / maintenance /fencing business. I find all your information to be very helpful. Thanks.

I work at a major home improvement store in their building materials department. I learned more in this video than in all of my training combined. Thank you!

My sons and I installed a paver driveway almost 25 years ago and it still looks great. When we put the "foundation" in we moistened and compacted it about every 2" for about 10". We used 20' long black iron screed rails to level the final sand before it was compacted, The only problem we've had has been ants love to nest in the sand. That good "foundation" has been the key to it still looking good.

"not even a chip" LUL as he pans across a chipped stone hmmmm LOL i enjoy the videos just found it funny

Holy Crap! THANK YOU!!!! I've been in my new house for 5 years and the bricks on my backyard patio have underwent HORIZONTAL FAILURE (THANKS also for educating us on these terms!)...For some time I thought it was poor maintenance, or the kids playing too rough (3-4 years before failing, that has to have been a poor job). Now I have the confidence to proceed with a strategy to fix the problem, AND see that it never visits me again! Thanks Buddy!

Hey Stanley, I really appreciate your hard work and attention to detail in your videos. Thank you for taking the time to make your videos. I often view other videos on the same topics yet your videos always end up providing the most accurate and applicable information and how to.

The biggest thing about longevity is polysand every 5 years, people fail to resand and then the pavers are free to twist and turn as they wish. Plastic edge restraints and stakes are a must also. 6-8" of 57 limestone tamped with a machine every few inches, then screen fines 1" thick. You also need to make sure that your base is contained and cannot be washed out over time, and if there is worry for a washout, drainage install is a must to keep the patio from sagging. Good video Stan. Youd be suprised how many companies dont do it the way you describe... its a shame. Job security I guess.

I really appreciate all the knowledge you share, as well as video quality. There's a lot of stuff someone can learn from watching your channel

Found tour site looking for info on building a paver patio and have found more useful and entertaining content than I expected. Thanks for the knowledge and humor. Your crew seem to be real craftsmen that care about the job they do. It's nice to see someone take the time to do it right. And thanks for making me re dig the 40 foot ditch I dug for conduit and put it back 4 inches at a time packed down. That hurt.

Great Tips, I am ready to start laying the pavers on my patio ...

Very well done, I'm impressed. .... another critical part of edging is it needs to have at least an inch of it running underneath the paver and sand bedding to 'Tie' it all together, so it 'moves' and 'flexes' TOGETHER, eliminating uneven settling of the pavers to the edging. The best edging I used was, I forgot the name, but it was company out of Minnesota. 'Pave Edge' something or other.?.

Learn tons of very good information. Thanks

Perfect timing for this video since my plan is to replace my current 20' x 40' patio with a paver one.

Love that you dumped a wealth of knowledge while fitting in a “that’s what she said” along the way. Well done!

This is exactly what i learned in a summer class for my degree!!!

Thanks for the fantastic information. I also watched several other videos of yours laying base, sand and pavers. I only needed a 5’x7’ pad for a storage shed. It came out perfect and will last a lifetime. The one thing the videos don’t show is how hard the work is though. Lol Thank you again for the pro tips.

I’m glad you mentioned about concrete borders, my boss makes us do it about 1/3 up the paver and when you’re butting up sod to the paver it’s so stupid, the sod dies, but he says “it’ll grow”

I found "Driveways, Paths and Patios" by Tony McCormack to be quite helpful (he's English). Maybe your library has it. Especially the pictures on pages 130, 170 and 171 that show all those confusing terms to us newbies: base, sub-base, grade, sub-grade, sand bed etc. He talks about Roman roads and they were fanatics about getting the drainage right. Coarse material on the bottom and finer material towards the top. OK, lot's of details involved. Nice video!

I saw several videos that did a fine job of explaining what to do, you explained why you do things. Super useful

It's very useful Stan. Keep up the good and informative videos.

Always remember the 6 P’s Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance

6,8 or 10" of base is my favorite thing you've said in this video. As an asphalt contractor for the last 15 years. Concrete borders will work amazingly if it's done like a curb and gutter, re-enforced with rebar and properly tied together (problem being many landscapers don't know best practice to achieve best results on this). In our area, lots of research and testing has found the best gravel to be used is fractured on 3 faces of the stone with a good combination of fines - in the compaction process, watering the base is an essential step for achieving maximum densities for the highest quality longest lasting base possible but it's important not to oversaturate the base and flood the sub base below it. In low lying areas or heavily saturated sub bases - cement stabilizing has been proven to be the most cost effective way to build roads where high quality materials aren't readily available; and, we also use in many applications 63mm concrete crush, a mixture of crushed concrete and asphalt no bigger than 63mm in size - 25mm = roughly 1" for those of you taught imperial over metric - in Canada we use both. The process goes like this 4-6" of concrete crush placed (roughed in), watered, graded and compacted then topped with a 20mm road crush 3/4" with lots of fracture in the stones - round stones are no beuno! They don't bind with each-other and the only time you can really get away with it is if you have absolute mammoth rollers that are crushing the stones while they're compacting 8 tonne plus in weight machines. (I highly doubt many landscapers are into $250,000 rolling machines per unit). And even if you buy and old used, not many landscapers are acclimated to moving that kind of weight around from job site to job site. All that to say, I know a lot about base, various mix designs in HMA (hot mix asphalt). A lot about concrete and a lot about geotextiles to fix saturation issues. But, I keep learning from you Stanley and keep coming back! Thank you!

Just the info I've been looking for, quick, clear and trustworthy. Thanks so much.

I specialize in Gravel driveways and I can say without a doubt that Stan is absolutely right about base material. The part of a surface that you walk on is the "wearing course", whether it's asphalt, concrete, pavers or #57 Limestone. (0.50" to 1.00" stones). Personally, I use 2" of #4 limestone over a triaxial geogrid (over a non-woven filter fabric in some soil conditions) and then top that with 6" of #411 Limestone and 2" of #57 Limestone. And that's for a light duty residential PARKING spot. For a light duty residential driveway I go 8" of 411's, for a HD residential driveway I go to 10" and for anything commercial I go to 12" and add a second layer of triaxial geogrid at the 6" mark. Gravel, sand and soil all behave as a fluid when under stress, which is nice when you are talking about movement from frost because it flexes and returns, but when you place more weight on a spot than it can distribute to whatever is supporting it, or if you add enough water to saturate the material and overcome it's frictional coefficient then things are going to move. You would never finish paint a wall before properly applying, sanding and priming the plaster and you should apply the same "get the basics right" philosophy to everything else. I also use the same Roman Road example of what you get when you get the base right and then protect it from erosion, so it was kind of cool to see that in the video.

We just had tiles places around some of our pool. Very expensive but the workers went down over 2 feet to start the base. Very professional..

I like watching your videos it’s like my science class but I actually learn something I might use in the future thank you for making videos like this

I subscribed within first minute of watching. That doesn't normally happen. You struck me as a person who clearly knows what they are doing and are able to successfully relay that to other people.

Great information in a short video. I really like the informality of it. Keeps it light. Not promoting any specific product.

Another great video with some great info. We have done a few sidewalks but we dont advertise for it at all. I personally think its fun because its a challenge for us. Oldest one is about 5 years old now and still looks good as new.

Super good job in your explanation,. Clear, Concise & Complete!! Love it

That was the best, fastest to the point video of all of the videos out there.

Your driveways have held up as long as the wash on your denim. I am impressed!

Thanks for the video Stan. If I could give you more thumbs up i would it was nice to see another hound for a change.

Excellent video...& hilarious! especially "that's what she said." The added sound effects are great too. 😂🤣

This guy looks like the Richard Rawlings of masonry lol

Huuuuge respect to the effort, skill and experience you put into these videos. As well as a good few dad jokes 😁👍

Thank you for your time & expertise, it was very helpful.

Thank you for the tips!!!

I thing your advice is good for newer installations of pavers. But several concrete driveways were replaced on my street by the same contractor 25 years ago (in Michigan). No base prep was done after removal of the old concrete. The other concrete driveways have heaved and cracked, but my 75' x 20' driveway is intact. I attribute that to my digging of a drainage trench on the upslope side of the driveway - 12"x 12" x 12", with placement a socked perforated drainpipe and with pea gravel filling the ditch. This reduces water infiltration under the concrete slabs. My arms felt like they were 2" longer at the end of the trenching, but it's worked for me.

It would be neat if you did a comparison of your rock or asphalt base paver driveways vs a permeable driveway

Very good video, Keep doing this. I plan on replacing my driveway with pavers, and yes my driveway suffers from whole sections of concrete that has dropped down an inch in some spots because of a failure in the bedding. I am going to visit your "School" so I can see what you are offering. I subscribed today because you are always presenting valuable information I can use in my projects at home. Thank you very much.

This is a GREAT video, dude! Incredibly helpful! Many thanks!

Wow really good information. I usually just put my pavers directly on the soil. This is good info to know.

I always watch your videos. Your doing a great job. Lots of helpful info. Saving money and time. Thanks and God bless.

Glad I do this this way already . Seen enough crap work over the years . Plus it feels good to know it's done as right as can be .

I have put soo much of your knowledge into practice. Thank you for all the knowledge! Worth it's weight in Gold!

You do a great job on all your videos. They’ve helped me a lot. Thanks so much!

Great video! A lot of good info. You answered quite of few questions. Currently doing a small area, large paver patio. Pavers are 16”x24”x2 3/8”. Have you ever consider on doing a network show? It would do great.

Stan, I'll give you a 10/10 on this information! 😎 - For a driveway base I recommend using a 2inch minus granular aggregate, the larger the size the better structure.

I gotta say I just found out channel and you're awesome!! I really wish I would've found you sooner!! Keep up the great work!!! :)

His work as really good. I couldnt help but chuckle a little when he said not a chip and one of the pavers clearly was broken

Really good video, you're stepping it up

Thanks for the tips. I have a 4" drainage PVC pipe buried about 8" to 9 inches below the surface of the compacted base across my driveway. I plan on installing brick pavers over top. With proper edging and compacting, do you anticipate that I might have issues with that portion of the driveway sinking? Pipe is hard PVC.

The wear and tear is not comparable between roads made in past Rome to now. That's an insane comparison.

So you’re saying the base doesn’t matter. Got it. Thanks for posting ✌🏼🇺🇸

Thank you! Awesome video and great information!

Would you still recommend the demonstrated paver edging when used against turf rather than actual grass? Or would concrete suffice in that scenario?

From los angels ca, i likedcyr vidio.u got people skills.u explain the process in a good way

Excellent details. Great delivery also!!! Thanks.

I learned a lot. Thank you!

U need to do more videos like this. Very informative

Thanks for the tips. God Bless.

Thank you!

Wow, I learnt a lot here. I have regular Pavers (no rock) and, they cleaned the Pavers and joints and rejointed w Polimeric sand, blowed excess, sprayed manually water w garden hose, let dry next day applied sealer and after 1.5 hrs started rain all day with times of medium to heavy rain. My driveway is on hill. Today I see sand down and I feel on top of the Pavers too. I'm thinking to apply more sealer. The worker left for vacation for a week. Polymeric sand.. Super Sand bond Sealer... Seal king Can I apply more sealer on top, after I blow the excess sand? Same sealer, same technique? Thank you

Thank you so much for making this video!

Thanks for the information.

Excellent video, keep it coming!

Very detailed and easy to follow. Best vdo. Instant subscriber.

Excellent video! So great to watch

fantastic video. thanks.

Hey Stan, excellent video as always, and the added bonus of some humor to break it up, but I've got some questions. So I'd attempted to start a paver walkway base, dug down to remove all yew bush root material to prevent rot sinkage like the "one hot mess" job. Returned mostly clay packed at roughly every 2" with a small non-reversing plate compactor (300lb or so), then a layer of erosion fabric (forget the name) at approximately 8" from grade. Then that was topped with crushed limestone, also packed with same machine approximately every 2". Before pavers were ordered, found icicles (a whole different story) would be dripping/falling onto pavers and would prefer they fall into the garden box the walkway will be spaced off the home with. What would be your recommended edge against non-compacted fill, and in shifting/disturbing/digging up/out the settled crusher run, what would be the process to repack? Would I be best to completely remove the crushed limestone to plate compact every 2" again? I need to extend the garden box near 18" into the packed stone, therefore extending the opposite side of the planned walkway, against the turf, the same amount of 18", leaving only the middle of the crush in its solid state of compaction. Thanks for any suggestions, apologies for the confusing verbiage, as you can tell this isn't my area of expertise!

Ongeee, this guy's videos are thee most entertaining, informative videos I've seen😁, he just tickles me so much, i love this guy, I'd love to hang out with him, plus he's VERY easy on the eyes😅

I was going to subscribe but oh... look at that I'm already subscribed 🤣

Hello Stanley, I have been contemplating expanding by backyard "patio" with pavers. Its currently a 7'x4' concrete slab. I was thinking of just laying pavers around it until its 17'x10' and possibly making some walls on the edges. My issue is i live in Florida and the main reason i want to do this is because the ground around my slab is always the most saturated with water. I don't think they landscaped my backyard properly when they built it so i am hoping to push back the water with this project. My main concern is the base. All i find at the store is crushed stone but its not very specific on the material. What is the best material to put down as a base before my layer of sand and pavers? Thanks

Frost is a huge reason too. In the northeast there is no getting around it. We call'em heaves!

In PHX we use type s mixed with Portland cement for borders. Did a driveway 5 years later nothing

good info sir, thank you for sharing

Love your vids! ....Than you. What is your recommendation on preparing a clay based soil. I live in Oklahoma and I’m sitting on pretty much 80% clay. Not originally from here but we’re here on a military transfer. Noticed AFTER the fact that the builder threw down the sod on about 2-3”!! of soil. Would like to do a paver project but not sure how to deal with the clay......doesn’t drain for crap either!

Alright then....come do my driveway and patio...in Minnesota!!!!

I feel like a smarty pants now. Thanks for these tips!

Great video, What would you recommend using as a border for a gravel driveway? Something to keep the gravel in and the dirt/grass out.

It’s all about that base, bout that base, no trouble!🤣

You make good videos. Thank you. I'm sure alot goes into the production of these behind the scene.

Love this! Thanks for sharing! Emmy Braxtly

Great information! Stan

Here in Southern California I’ve used red brick for paving the driveway; looks awesome and has resisted many cement truck and dumptruck (with ten yards of sand/gravel material) over the years. I used nine inches of compacted sand over twelve inches of 3/4 sharp gravel. Maybe I was lucky.

I worked for a landscape company for 3 years it was always clay then crushed 4 s then dirty 9s (pea gravel with sand). Never a layer of just sand. Always rock solid, I saw jobs that they had done 20 years prior and they still looked brand new except for the weathering of the pavers/stone obviously. But I agree what's underneath is always key to a project lasting.

Stan, I just demolished a patio I built in the early 90s. Not pavers, bricks. Concrete border. Subbase? No. Base material? Yes, if you include potting soil. I did compact a sand base, before laying the brick. It suffered all 3 failures as you described here. Patio was useless except as a place to put the grill. Demolishing it was cathartic. You make good vids!

Stan I love your videos. Your carpet needs replace lol. That what I do for living. Install flooring.

Thank you. Regards, Geoff. Reeks

6:13 for the 'that's what she said' 😂😂

Awesome video. Great information

more TOOLS PLEASE ! new sub !

Another excellent video. But I wanted to add a very important additional topic to be considered, which could be a series of videos just on its own merit is taking into account, and that's water drainage.

great tips. do these also apply to gravel patios? we are planning to build one ourselves using pea gravel (10mm tanned gravel). I wonder what's the best way to solidify the foundation (our soil in calgary, canada is clay like) and stabilize the surface gravel (mulch-lock or a binding agent). we plan to secure the gravel with bricks. I suppose those bricks will require the plastic edging where it's not sitting next to the grass (e.g. by the fence). thanks.

Whats your opinion on the new foam paver base systems the look interesting as it get's rid of having to deal with base material.

Curious what the steepest driveway you would feel comfortable using pavers on?

Stanley, you mention using a "chop saw" to cut of several blocks at a time in place following a chalk line. This strategy would be very helpful for me in that I made the mistake of deciding to make an Octagon shape for my first paving project (eight 80 inch sides, paving with 4 x 8 inch bricks). I need to rent the saw and want to make sure I get the right one. Are you simply referring to a concrete saw? My space is such that I do not have to be exact. My thought is to do a single row Sailor Course for a boarder, then fill in a cross to cover four of the sides and all of the middle. This would leave four triangles to fill in which I assume will result in lots of waste. As far as cutting in place goes maybe it would be better to do the triangles first, cut, and then fill in the cross? Any suggestions are appreciated.