May your project be a successful one!

Thank you! Yeah, I hope I put enough emphasis on that, as most people should probably install flashing. Thanks for the comment Craig!

Thanks!

Thanks!

That's America for ya!

Much appreciated!

Thanks, Jen!

Thanks a bunch for you're kind comment, Jose!

Thanks for watching, Mindy. All the best on your project!

Thank you very much!

Glad to hear, Ryan. All the best on your project, and thanks so much for the comment!

Glad to hear it, Julie! Thanks for the comment!

Thanks, and good luck to you if you do :-)

Thanks Amir!

Much appreciated!!

Thanks, Miguel! I love Project Farm! Been subscribed for years. I saw the construction adhesive one too, but too late :-( ... As for the square, I used to cut with the flat side toward me, but I'd seen some other pros (Tom Silva too) do the opposite. I tried it and realized it helps you hold the board against the push of your saw, and since it sticks out a little on the starting side, it also helps square the sole of the saw before starting the cut.

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Cool. Thanks for clarifying. I'll give it a try.

Thank you, Tina!

Thanks Jeff!

Thanks!

Thanks eva!

Thanks for the kind comment!

Thanks!

Thank you 😊

Thank you!!

May yours be a successful and enjoyable project, Kylie! BTW .. Because I have large overhangs, I didn't need to flash my window, but if yours if your windows are exposed to the elements, you'll probably want to flash them. Here are a couple of videos that might be helpful: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e6h9YJyinLu7Xac.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f7qWiaye2qqUf6c.html

Thanks!

Thanks J! Yeah, I'm terrible when it comes to safety and prep work. And I just can't seem to kill that little table saw. I've never even changed the original Ryobi blade and it still rips as good as I need. Thanks for the comments!

Thanks!

Thanks!!

Thanks, Ahmad!

Thanks Kenny. May your decision be the right one! All the best to you!

Thanks Gina!

Thanks! Good luck with yours Kevin.

The window is in, I still need to do the hard part which is the outside brick work.We have been below freezing for a while now .The inside is finished and trimmed out. Thanks to your project and sharing what you did.

That’s awesome, Kevin!.😃It would be cool if you could post a link to a pic or video of the finished product when you’re done.

@@FamilyFriendlyDIYkzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y7p3q9ufuc-op5c.html

I will update when the brick work is finished

If you have bricks continuing above your window, yes, you'd need to install a lintel, but my bricks stop at the top of all my windows, because my window frames go all the way to my soffits.

Thanks! ... As far as the skilsaw goes, it was fast enough, but I wore out the first diamond blade and the grit ended up locking up the blade guard. I had to take it apart to get it working again. It would have been almost $50 for another decent blade, and I think I paid $170ish for the Evolution--which I'll be using in future concrete projects. This was actually a compilation of 4 longer videos on this project--I think I talk about it in one of the other videos ... if anyone's interested in seeing more. Thanks for the comment, Brian!

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks for the reply, Dave. Makes sense. I also believe that the standard 7 1/4 circular saw only cuts 2 1/2 inches deep while the Evolution Concrete Saw cuts 4 in. deep. The standard brick depth is 3 5/8 in so it was probably good that you got to cut through the full depth of the mortar line.

Good eye, SabreAnt! ... That's before I caulked between the brick and window. I wanted the mortar to completely dry first. Thanks for the comment!

Thank YOU for watching, Gregory! ... and unless you count the "plugging chisel" I used, made by Kraft Tool, for the vertical cuts, I just went as deep as I could without damaging the brick with the 4 inch angle grinder, then worked at it with chisels.

All the construction shows I'd watched where they always build temporary walls to support the load (I've done the same in the past and still would under certain conditions) made me concerned---until I thought it through. Logically, there would be no catastrophic failure, as I figured the two sixty-year-old top plates would want to keep their shape for a little while, and if they did sag before I got the header in, I could always go back after the fact and jack things up to get the header in. I thought, "Why waste the time and lumber if the odds are 60/40 in your favor," ;-) ... Great question, Trevor. And thanks for the comment!

Thanks, Joel. I think it was about 4 Saturdays.

Thanks, Sharon. May your project be blessed!

I know, right? :-) Didn't think of it till afterward.

Yes, that's light shining through the cracks from the inside before I caulked the exterior trim. I used Great Stuff to foam all of the gaps before casing the interior.

Ha ha, someone else mentioned that as well. That footage was taken before I caulked. I wanted the mortar to dry first. ... Observant, Maddy!

Thanks, Bernard. If I remember right, it took me 4 Saturdays --- so technically 4 days.

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks.

It depends on where you live, BC. The only way to be sure is to contact your local government.--A lot of places have a website and you can do it all on-line.

Good question, Jonathan. ... I didn't need to. There is no brick above the window (my windows abut the soffits), so nothing to support.

Thanks Joseph, and ---Oh wow. That might be a little different. They're solid masonry with no wood framing aren't they? ... I'd recommend watching some Stu Crompton for some English style instruction, if you haven't yet. All the best with your project!

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY 500mm thick stone walls. They were making nuclear bunkers well before their time haha. I surely will Dave, thanks for the tips and the video ;)

If you're doing it yourself, buying all of the tools, and purchasing new windows, probably around $800-$1000 USD. If you're having a contractor do it, it could range from probably around $3000 to $10,000 depending on where you live.

No. These were “replacement” windows.

I probably spent $150 on the wood, PVC, caulk etc. to frame the windows; $170 on the diamond saw, $50 on masonry tools, and maybe $15 on a couple of bags of mortar. So around $400 total.

Good call out. No lintel necessary because of my low soffits, there is no brick above my window to support. My windows are flush to the soffits.

I've been waiting for someone to mention that! :-) I thought the same thing after I did the first couple of rows, but by then it was too late. If I did it again, I would. Thanks for the comment!

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Is it possible to just cut the brick, alleviating the need to rebrick around the edges?

@@MattRichardsonX Yes, and I’ve seen it done that way, but it leaves a very porous surface that usually doesn’t match the rest of the brick. Typically wherever the end of a brick shows you want it to be a factory end and not a cut end. That’s why with all the half pieces that are usually around windows the cut end is turned toward the mortar joint. I think leaving the cut end exposed is becoming more common when the brick is going to be painted afterward.

My thoughts exactly. I removed a giant brick fireplace surround, started at the top. Also not sure why he was sawing the grout. It just comes out when you chisel the brick out so easily. Unnecessary mess…

To have a contractor do it, it looks like about $3k to $10k dollars, Trinity. www.homeadvisor.com/cost/doors-and-windows/install-windows/

I know what you mean, AL. That's typically done here as well. I considered a temporary wall to hold things straight while I put the header in, but I've seen enough old framing stay in place when the support was gone that I was willing to risk it. The framing is so old and hard I knew it wouldn't sag immediately at least. ... About the joint in the trim -- 2 things: (1) I'm cheap (2) I wanted to show other cheap folks how to do it ;-) .... Thanks for the comment, AL!

She did the filming of it. It was either that, or have her stand there holding the mortar tub ;-)

Thanks for the input :-)