This was episode 36 so I mean yeah ? Lol. I will do a video about the paint at some point

It was on my car when I got it, I just replated them, sorry, I don't know the part numbers

This was just the adjustment. I don’t know much about the SUVs but I’ve heard some horror stories.

No, I got it to feel decent then realized I needed to pull everything to replace the master cylinder. Sucks. Struggling to get the pedals back in today, took a break, too pissed off. Seems impossible.

@@addvancedgarage I had to do all the above as well. Master cylinder, pedal rebuild, new clutch flywheel, adjusted clutch cable, etc. - you’re doing a lot but it’ll work out. I still leak oil but much less than before. The beast will run after you get these things done. Keep the faith!

@@bcli7472 Thank you for the support! I have put 200 miles on the car so far! Stay tuned!

911 (1977-86) Manual: For 911s with the late-model 915 transmission, there is a specific factory adjustment procedure that seems to work quite well. With the cable completely disconnected, adjust the small stop bolt attached to the large release lever arm, until you have a clearance of 1.2mm between the stop bolt and the smaller actuating lever arm (see Photo). Use a feeler gauge to measure this gap. Once this distance is achieved, then tighten up the lock nut to keep the screw from turning. Now, attach the clutch cable end to the small hook on the lever arm. Using the nuts captured on the clutch cable, tighten up the cable until the previously measured gap decreases to 1.0mm. Tighten both nuts on the clutch cable, step on the clutch pedal, and recheck the measurement. Readjust if the clearance has changed from the 1.0mm baseline.

Hey it worked fine, so... yeah. Still waiting on your video where you show me a better way to do it, always willing to learn.

Yeah I'm still waiting, would really like to know how to do this better.