The valve lash on my 20hp on one bank got so bad both pushrods came out of their seats and got bent. No damage was done to the head thank god. I had to bend the pushrods back into shape just to get by until I can get new rods & the exhaust valve guide. It backed out and I think caused the intake pushrod to jump out of the rocker. I'm just limping it along, adjusting that cylinder every time before I mow before I get it repaired. It's pretty costly to have a shop do it as I'm an automotive mechanic and dont have the tools to do it myself. I can rent what I need perhaps but i dont want the headache. Rather just bring the head to a shop.

I got confused. You said .004” on the intake, and .006” on the exhaust. Then you set both at .006”

You need to turn the motor just over TDC to get past the compression release, if you turn it over while using the feeler gauges you will feel the right spot. Thanks for the video.

Thanks for the video my zero turn runs like a top now 👍

Thanks for posting this. Cured my hard to start mower!

You just adjusted both valves at the same time at TDC on compression stroke I believe ! Both valves should be fully closed at that point !

great video... how did I never learn about this until today??? BTW - I appreciate all the background noise and times when you blocked the camera... that stuff happens to me all the time

Failed to mention, four strokes have 2 TDC , compression and exhaust. Get this wrong you got a problem. Adjust valves on compression, when rockers will be a little loose,

the intake is top.. right ?! He pointed to bottom one and said "intake"

Thank you for this video! I always wondered how to turn the crankshaft without running into all the interlocks for the blade (power take off).

I'm trying to figure out how you did a piston ring replacement job and put the engine back together WITHOUT adjusting the valves and it still ran!!! wtf?

If you’re lucky, a valve adjustment is all you need. My B&S camshaft with compression release broke, making it very tough to start.

Thanks for the info. Going to do this for the first time in my life.

Briggs actually says that piston should continue past tdc down 1/4 inch .this ensures intake is past the compression release position.

Thanks for the instructions, that is a fuel pump not oil pump. The hose you disconnected is a breather hose.

If you rotate the motor CCW, you defeat the compression release and when you get to TDC back it off 1/4 inch. Always do the intake first

Do you do that on cylinder 2 as well

I liked the video. You said you like intake at .004, then you adjust to .006 in the video.

Very good video! I/we just discovered out of the blue my g/f's Craftsman with a V twin that will only crank up to compression and then stops turning. Brand new StrongBox battery. Cables and connections pristine. Got to be those clearances.

nice tutorial

Thanks brother! Quick and easy....Great video...

MRI DYI do you have a video on valve service/ adjust on the Briggs flat head Quantam L heads?

If the valves are tight TDC, doesnt that indicate you are TDC on the exhaust stroke? I was under the impression on the compression stroke at TDC the valves are not tight and adjustment should be made on compression stroke.

The decompression mechanism failure is common on the single cylinder engine, but the twins need valve adjustment. (so I am told)

What you are working on would help.

Is there a way to provide a picture of this decompression mech? I took a couple of pics and can share these; not sure how here.

Is is possible to turn the output pulley instead of removing the top cover .

So the valves became too tight? I would expect them to get loose over time. Mine is running fine for about 30 minutes then it immediately becomes rough with a loss of power. Would this be more likely a valve adjustment issue or sticky valve or bent rods?

Thanks for the video very well explained !

How to you know which valve is intake or exhaust.when you were showing how to find tdc on of the rockers was still tight and about to open so you turned it again to tdc till both rockers had slack. I'm guessing the valve that opened just past tdc was exhaust..is this right . I'm doing it tomorrow on a 23hp vaguard in my argo.. never did valves before.2 stroker here . Looks super easy though. But I'm hoping it's why it wont turn over at startup. To much compression.and I'm hoping it's just adjustment and not a blown up camshaft compression relief doohickey !!

👍

Where can I get a fuel pump exactly like that one for cheap

Is there going to be oil in that area

Oil pump???? petrol/gas pump..

Opened the engine found the cam decompression valve failed. New cam on order....and it was not a V twin.. it was a single cyl. Housing cover is deceptive.

It's a fuel pump not a oil pump

I appreciate you being very thorough and finding TDC(top dead center) and all that but in reality all you have to do is: For the exhaust valve(the bottom one) rotate the crank either by hand or with the starter until the top valve is compressed. And when you want to adjust the intake(top) valve, rotate the crank until the bottom valve in compressed. No need to fuss with TDC(top dead center) or anything. My engine was extremely hard starting when I tried this and I found that I could easily slide a .010 shim between the rod and rocker when the tolerance was between .004 and 006. I adjusted until I couldn't fit an .007. My mower now cranks and runs like a new engine. If you want a quick but useful video which is what I followed, watch this one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i5lgnchpuMC6YI0.html

set them both on 4 thousands

00:57 the oil pump... Uh, yeah....the oil pump that sucks gas into the carburetor.