Thanks for the comment and compliment.

Bs, l Saw a spec of dirt or something.

Thank you.

Sorry I do not believe the lathe is that old and has been in use.

Thanks for the comments, the lathe was built in 1981, I purchased it new in 1984 (as per a previous comment). it was 10 years preserved and unused during the family and work thing but always looked after and covered when not in use. Hope this clarifies. I'll do a video shortly for a maintenance day on that lathe, I'll go into more details of its past (with photos) then.

Thanks for the comment, great to have you aboard.

Thank you.

Thanks for the comment and welcome aboard.

Thank you and welcome aboard.

Welcome aboard and thanks for the comments.

Glad you enjoy it

Thanks for the comment, there's more to come

Welcome aboard and thanks for the comment. plenty more to come.

Thanks

Thanks, much appreciated.

Welcome aboard and thanks for the coment . More builds to come.

Thanks for the comment, many more projects to come.

I believe it was Tom Lipton that disproved the need for specific diameters when knurling, it being a swaging process. On the other hand when cut knurling, the OD being correct is vital for a gòod knurl as the process is more like gear cutting.

I haven't seen a video from Tom Lipton on knurling but I will go on a search for one, thanks.

@@theoutbackshed it was a long time ago, but I'm pretty sure it was him although, like a wise man, I am prepared to be wrong.😉

@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 I think Mr. Pete even mentioned that specific diameters aren't needed, but I've always thought there was more to it. Like you mentioned, similar to gear cutting.

Thank you on all points. I shall take note of point 3 and do better in future. Thank you for picking this up.

Thanks

Thanks for the like.

Thank you

Thanks ad welcome aboard!

Glad you enjoyed it

Thanks and welcome aboard.

Thanks 😅

Awesome! Thank you!

Glad you enjoy it! Cheers

Thanks for the comment. I think you're right. No more accurate, just a tool dedicated for this job and an opportunity to explore different processes on the lathe.

I used similar, but 2mm piano wire with a ground divot together with a 0.001mm./div dial test indicator. That bit extra stiffness at the point has made the difference. Trained and used to work as an instrument maker, so precision could at times be enough to require parts (and measurement equipment) to "settle" before measurements where made.

I agree with you, that would work too. The objective I put up is to take on a lathe project (mostly for beginners) that encompasses many features of the lathe, and you get a dedicated tool at the end of the project.

Thank you

I was going say the same thing.

@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 I was beginning to think was the only one that remembered locking the tailstock & clicking the wiggle bar in. The spring kept it held between the centres and there was no need to accurately set the load with the tailstock. Too much load from the tailstock made the bar bend, too little and it rattled about.

@@machinists-shortcuts precisely so.

Thanks, that's a great idea. I'll have a think about that.

Thanks mate

Thank you, I appreciate the comments.

Hi, thanks for the comment. That's the way I have always done it, much better method than the old push knurling. Far less stressful on the machine and tooling.

Thanks for the comment, I think that 416 has a higher nickel content making it more corrosion resistant, I will see if I can find some and try it out. Thanks for the advice and welcome aboard.

I remember doing it that way too. Would be too time consuming nowadays though.

HI, thanks for the comment. It's a Colchester Colt 2000. 13"x40". Made 1981, purchased new in 1984. It's in original condition.

@@theoutbackshed thanks

That would work.

Hi Chris, and welcome to the Channel. Thanks for the question. The square stock at the end of the video was never intended to be trued square. The centre punch mark was arbitrary and the objective was to show it off centre in the chuck then use the tool to bring the centre punch mark into alignment, which I did. This is what the tool is designed for. If I wanted to bring the block into alignment I would had used a dial indicator on each of the four sided to ensure that the block was centred. In this case it was the centre punch mark that I aligned not the block. Again, thanks for the comment and the opportunity for me to clarify for you. I was not as clear as I could have been in the video. Cheers.

@@theoutbackshed One of the problems with being old and retired is having way too much free time. All the free time equates to dissecting, bisecting, scrutinizing and criticizing KZfaq videos. Reading back on my original comments I can see where others may see me as a 14 caret ball buster. Sorry for that. I think I went off the tracks do to the very brief segment showing your project in use. Here's another video that focuses more on the concept. It helped me to see the value a placing a point of the stock on center rather than center of the stock. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mZZ1gNSY3te8cY0.html Thank you for responding to me and good luck with your channel. I subscribed! Wakodahatchee Chris

Hi Chris, good to have you on board. Cheers.

@@cdrive5757 I'm one of the other readers & I didn't see you as a ball buster. You had a question & a right to ask.

🤣 no doubt.

No, not a teacher, just a hobbyist.