back in the day, my grandfather got a weight distribution hitch from reese hitch, they told him the best way to use this was to, measure the rear bumper, hook up the trailer, measure the bumper in the same spot, then put enough tension on the bars that the bumper was two inches lower than the regular ride height, anything less than two inches there would be too much pressure on the hitch, they put many miles on their trailer with no problems, I watch these videos and the people hooking the hitch up are trying to get the truck to set level, and in my book it's asking for trouble, I used a distribution hitch when I was racing that was rated at 6000 pounds, and had no issues no matter what the angle, and my trailer and car was around 4-5000 pounds, and I would put all the success on the measuring of the bumper

5:51 I you stop in the middle of a Interstate Highway construction zone to drop your bars, and the commercial traffic on that road are going to make it worst that the broke trailer!

Explained very well. That's why I have a dually. Very stable, no matter if I'm pulling my 8,000 lb travel trailer or my 18,500 lb 5th wheel.

Best video on this topic that I've seen in 3 years of watching RV videos!

I've always used equalizer style hitches. I contact the hitch manufacturer before buying the trailer and hitch for that trailer. I trust their recommendation more than a dealer who will sell you an oversized hitch because that is what they keep in stock. In addition to your remarks about sharp approach angles people need to learn to slow down when towing on rough or uneven surfaces. Also the sharp angle doesn't necessarily mean a hill but is equally possible to be caused by a large pothole. By going slower you have time to adjust your approach angle or ability to avoid areas that would put excessive force on the trailer frame.

As someone who has yet to tow a TT, even I understood this. Well presented.

Several issues coming into play here creating a "perfect storm" for a bad day: 1. Camper manufacturers using cheaper, lighter, thinner materials for their frames. 2. Truck manufacturers have been increasing the towing capacity of their light duty trucks for the past twenty years or so. A lot of this increased capacity is due to improvements in the transmission, not the suspension. 3. Consumers who are wanting more and more and more features in their campers, all of which add weight. Of those three, if I had to point to a main culprit, it would be the manufacturers using flimsy materials in their frames. Well, that and the quality of build. I've seen some welds on some of these campers that would make a buzzard puke. Monkeys with MIGS could probably weld a better frame.

excellent info!!! of all i've watched, this info was never covered. I will pay more attention to severe dips, which can occur just getting into some gas station parking lots on the road. Thanks!!!

Awesome video brother.

Excellent explanation. I think there are probably a few trailers that ARE built a little lighter than they should be, but it's not a widespread problem. I see way too many people with the "bigger is better" mindset buying 12k or 15k WD hitches for a 5k or 6k trailer.

Interesting video. We tow a small tear drop and our first tow vehicle was a Jeep Grand Cherokee. Great video, and auto leveling so whenever we hooked the trailer, the Jeep auto leveled to give us a even ride. Moved on to a Ford F150 and obviously sits a bit higher. No auto leveling but the Ford handles the tear drop without issue. We keep the tear drop tongue weight as light as possible and watch what we load into the bed of the truck. When loaded for a very long (months long trips) I see a very slight downward V angle between the truck and trailer. It's not enough for me to worry about, I don't think it's worth the money to invest in a new hitch, but I have thought about adding aftermarket air suspension on the truck to inflate maybe 10-20lbs to just give it a bit more lift.

yes, stop traffic to pull over where there is no space to pull over and disconnect your stabilizers - makes sense to me

Thanks for all the great information…subscribed I have a question. I’m in the market for an Rv. I travel for my work. I’m looking for something comfortable and well built. I’m currently looking at the riverstone, for the insulation and robust frame, for a fifth wheel. Also looking at the outdoors 280 model travel trailer. My two options. Can you give any advice or opinions on these two brands. And yes, work takes me to extreme cold…I mean sometimes-40, to highs around 90. Thanks a lot in advance

I ordered some long narrow square u bolts and mounted a 3' long piece of square tubing on the bottom of 2 v frame members, centered at the frame headwall.

Sorry, but no. Weaker is not better and this never used to happen. If 200 pounds of additional weight for a stronger frame causes this then it is the wrong answer. And no, I'm NOT going to be removing the equalizer to pull into that McDonalds, this stuff should just work. I have to disagree with you on this one, and I once had a job where I was towing a 22 foot box trailer around 15k miles per year. This is just a excuse to use a smaller tow vehicle than you really need and is bad in a dozen other ways too.

Id love to hear your opinion on a BP conversion hitch. It converts a Bumper pull into a gooseneck. Bolts on to the frame just like a WDH

Great video. Thank you. When I purchased my 2018 Airstream International trailer (28 feet long and 7,600 pound GVWR) the dealer installed a Blu Ox hitch with what they called anti sway bars. Is this the same as a weight distribution hitch? Our tow vehicle is now a 2024 Silverado 3500 (single rear wheel).

Very good video and easy to understand. I went with my brother-in-law to pick up his new fifth wheel and while he was being shown the operation of his new camper, I observed the dealer employees moving various campers around the lot. I was concerned when they were using a fork truck to move fifth wheels around in that they were making very sharp turns to get the camper aligned with other units. I noticed the wheels having been pushed sideways and steep angles as the camper was moved. I didn't think about the spring hangers and I beams being twisted and stressed. Thanks for the info.

I can’t imagine stopping in the middle of a busy road or in a construction zone to unload the forces on my WD hitch. At that point I’m weighing the risk of being shot by a road rager.

What frame reinforcement do you recommend?

I used to own an older Fireball 32' 1980s 5th wheel trailer. That trailer was like towing a small tank. The frame on that RV was never questioned. The newer 5ths are crap, I've been shopping again for over a year and gave up. I'm leaning towards a cargo trailer and converting it or even leaning towards a bus conversion

Thanks for this video, made perfect sense. I’ll sure be paying attention to this going forward. Also the part about the hitch weight rating set my mind at ease. My dealer set me up with 10,000 pound weight distribution bars on my equalizer 4 hitch and my trailers Gvwr is 9,495 pounds. Everyone has been telling me I need atleast 14,000 pound bars! I know better now after watching this video👍

B&W has a WD hitch. It is very easy to use and you can easily release the pressure if needed and restore pressure when required. I highly recommend it.

Could you provide some guidance, assuming other factors are correctly applied, in how much tension is "good enough," and how much may be too much? Just wondering if there is a sweet spot that might provide the necessary weight distribution without too much stress on the frame. Using scales is not practical in most cases.

I really don’t think it’s practical to just stop and disconnect the wdh bars. I personally think you’re safe assuming you don’t have them excessively tight. Right truck for the right trailer and the correct setup are imperative.

Great video and thank you for explaining so clearly. I was wondering if I needed an equalizer hitch for a casita travel trailer I am planning on buying. Guess not! Pulling with an F350 SRW long bed diesel…..

Interesting. I’ve had car haulers for decades, and see many out jeeping out in the desert. I have never seen a car hauler trailer A frame do this. Are rv trailer frames built different?

Frost Heaves. I towed an ~4500 lb. w/~500 lb tongue weight travel trailer up to Alaska from the California with a Transit Van, no weight distribution hitch. I'm so glad I did not (not manufacturer recommended anyway) because I'm pretty sure those heaves in the road would have done frame damage of some sort. Thanks for the great information! I'm really enjoying your channel!

if people would stop trying to haul the biggest possible trailer with the smallest possible vehicle this wouldn't be a problem

What's your thoughts on the Anderson weight distribution hitch. I have a Ram 2500 and a Rockwood that weighs 8430 lbs.and 36' long, I have a Weigh Safe hitch that works great, It's just very heavy and my knees and back are not what they use to be.

That was a great video. I knew that the front of the truck raising to the back of the trailer was creating a possibility of damage. But I didn't realize what should be done to minimize that possibility. I believe I have the correct size weight distribution hitch, which by the way is actually made by equalizer, but I had never disconnected it. I will now watch for those kind of situations and do that preventative to damage before I go through those areas. By the way I have a heavy duty Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with the complete trailer package and I haul a relatively small travel trailer behind it. I have actually hauled it without the distribution hitch but was told by the dealer that we really should have one . And maybe they're right? Again thanks for the video and I have subscribed and I will watch more of your stuff I really appreciate it. Thanks

Good video. My TT has hitch integrated in frame, not welded under frame. Only downside to this is hitch is higher than most making tailgate hit hitch ball.

how about a topic of, When to use verse not needing a Equalizer? Im going from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton, I myself am torn on to use or not.

Our neighbor just parted with his 3 year old, super long, pull behind camping trailer with a bent front A frame for 1/2 the original price. He had left it at a dealership 1100+ miles from home and apparently was getting no satisfaction. I wish he had originally purchased a 5th wheel to be towed by his 3/4 ton diesel.

Thanks for the video . My truck has air ride and it auto levels itself out not sure why they sold me a equalizer hitch . Your thoughts ?

Great video & info, Jacob... thank you. Would it be fair to say then, that while I have been using an EQ with out 6,000# trailer with a 1/2 ton SUV (Armada), that since I just switched vehicles to a Ram 3500, I should ditch the hitch?

0:32 "This only happens to travel trailers " Why does this not happen to other trailers such as enclosed or landscape trailer?

I like pulling with a little overkill so 2500 and small mid size bumper pull RV don't need the weight distribution, but still wanted some additional sway control. So far about the only thing for this is that I can find is the Anderson wight distribution hitch just leave off the chains and wedge. Am I on the right track with this ???

What about unibody construction cars? We pull a small 16 ft Airstream Basecamp with our Toyota Highlander using sway control but no WDH. We are well within our SUV’s specs for tongue weight, towing capacity and payload. We boondock often and take the Basecamp off pavement over some pretty uneven terrain. Our Highlander isn’t body on frame, it’s unibody construction so we didn’t see the benefit of a WDH. Is there any?

so how do you size the wieght distribution hitch

Interesting! I have had the same WDH since 2000 when I bought my first trailer. 10k rated, 1/2 ton trucks. I now own a 5k GVW trailer and the dealer said it wasn’t necessary to use the WDH . I asked them to change it because I felt it gave me more safety in control issues. I will note my truck has air adjust suspension. I’m planning a trip in a couple weeks, would you suggest I try not using the WDH bars? I do have a separate sway bar as well. Thanks for the advice!

My tongue weight is 750 lbs. Should i use trunnion bars rated to 800 lbs or bump up to bars rated to 1000 lbs?

So I own a Ram 3500 DRW and a toy hauler that weighs 8,000lbs fully loaded. Are you saying I don’t need a weight distribution hitch for this particular truck & trailer setup?

Question I have Aluminum RV 21 Intech Sol Dawn 300lbs TW, 2730lbs GCVW. Towing with 19 Lexus GX460 800lbs HW 6600 towing capacity. I’m hesitating to put DW, just adding Friction bar one side. DW hitch weight 90lbs Camco R3 curve, what I been told don’t need it. Oh ya I added Timbren bump stop on my vehicle. What you think should I install DWH or just leave as be.

Do I need to use my Blue Ox Wd hitch with my 25 ft Airstream that has a 871 ft tongue weight and weighs 5770 lbs loaded with a Ram 2500 with a payload of 2400 lbs. I can barely notice a difference when I load the bars that I know are rated two high. 4 dots I think is 1500 lbs.

I have a Silverado 2500HD rated for 1,600 pounds tongue weight. My camper has about 850-900 pounds of tongue weight, it's a toyhauler NoBoundries 19.1. I had a Ford f150 when I bought the camper. I am thinking of just getting some friction sway bars.

I'm starting to think motor homes will solve all these issues. Trailers are convenient because you can detach them, but motor homes you don't worry about all these issues. Or simply just get a tent trailer. Growing up my family was content in just setting up a tent. These days, we need to bring a condo to a camp ground to enjoy nature.

Weight distribution hitches are a bandaid for poor weight distribution, hence the name. If you need a weight distribution hitch, your trailer tongue weight is too heavy for your tow vehicle. A weight distribution hitch does not distribute weight, it applies massive amounts of torque to literally twist the tow vehicle to nose down to counter the excessive weight on the tow hitch which is twisting the vehicle to a nose up orientation. These contraptions do not alleviate a problem, they are designed to disguise a problem. They add forces to the system that the system was not engineered for in most situations. A friend had his frame warranty voided on a brand new camper because he was using a WD hitch setup, which the dealer sold to him and showed him how to set up. How these became mainstream is beyond me.

You probably should have also included a warning about disconnecting the weight distro hitch. 1. Many hitches like this not only help with weight distribution, but include a sway control component. 2. The amount of weight a hitch is designed to carry can vary greatly depending on whether a weight distro hitch is used. On my particular vehicle the maximum weight allowed on the receiver is 500 Lbs without a weight distro hitch, and 1,100 Lbs with a distro hitch.

I am sorry this question is off topic, but I would like to know why my PROPANE system in my wbgo 36a solis pocket camper van, has white tape on the fittings instead of yellow. Is it safe? Is it “code” How dangerous is it? What problems have you seen with white tape ad opposed to yellow tape. Thanks!

I had a flat on my Airstream One wheel Bambi. I could not jack up the trailer at first till I realized I needed to remove the bars from my weigh distributing hitch. Panic then success! No one warned me about this.

One way to keep weight down and increase strength is increase size. While weight does go up, a 2x3 vs a 2x6 same thickness will yield more strength vs a thicker 2x3 that may weigh more than a 2x6. Also it’s not all on the hitch, tongue weight on these things can get out of control quick especially with single axle trailers that are made to be light weight yet carry a heft tongue weight but use the 2x3.

Do you work for Lippert? Just wondering?

If you have the right truck and trailer combo, chances are you don’t need an equalizer hitch assembly. The trucks (with tow packages) are more than sufficient to handle the towing capabilities.

This is something I really love about our B&W Continuum hitch. Very, very easy to disable the weight distribution functionality of the hitch. Great information here.

Why do you use Equalizer as a generic term for WDH? It’s not like Kleenex. No one does this.

So what about the people who use a hitch setup like Pro PRIDE and such?

I've been RVing for a decade and never knew this. I dont set my equilizer that tight and i have helper springs on my truck. Otherwise, I'm pretty sure i would have broken the frame several times by now 😅

I don't really agree with your comment about "Even if they reinforced the a-frame of the hitch...You can still put enough force on it driving with your rqualizer hitch to break things" My reason for the issue with this, is when you look at the failures, they are all in the same place. They are bending at the point where the front of the trailer ends. This says that the trailer is providing enough stiffness to prevent the trailer from bending. If the area of failure is so repeatable, then it's obvious that is the area that need to be addressed. the force being applied by the weight of the front of the trailer is concentrated on that point, which means that point needs to be stronger. Sure, you could breay it if you applied enough force, but the thing is, this is a NEW problem. If it was a problem all the time, then it could bre lated to abuse, but people have been using trailers the same way for decades, and now they are having problems. What's the solution? Add strength at the point where the most force is exterted onto the frame; the fulcrum, where the front of the trailer ends. If they were to weld an extra 1/8 the outside and inside of each framerail for 12" forward and back of where the trailer ends on the a-frame; a 24" plate shaped like a really long football; this would distribute that force across a much larger area, and that would allow the tongue to be MUCH stronger with a negligible weight gain. The problem with the trailer frame is the weight concentration in the area where the frame is exposed to the most bending force. Distribute that fore across a larger area (where have we heard this idea before?) and it will dramatically increase the strength. As far as your thoughts about it breaking somewhere else, it doesn't really work unless absolute abuse of the vehicle with unrealistically extreme angles. The problem is, where the trailer ends, acts like a fulcrum, that's where it's going to bend. You beef up the fulcrum, it won't bend under realistic situations. This isn't an issue of people being worse drives, or roads being worse, or people overloading their trailers more, it's an issue of manufacturers trying to minimize weight and sacrificing customer safety to do so. Yeah, it's physics, but really, they should have someone who knows about physics, young's modulus, and the force exerted by weight distribution hitches on staff at both Lippert and the Trailer Manufacturer. Make the fulcrum stronger. Make the a-frame stronger. Make trailers not bend when driving through a construction zone. It's 30-60lbs of material, it's not too much to ask.

And a lot of people use one when they don't need one. I see people all the time that have a 4500 lb 24' trailer and a half ton truck and using one. You don't need one for that. That trailer has under 500 lbs tongue weight. I don't use one for my 30' 7800 lb trailer and a 3/4 ton truck with a class 5 receiver hitch

I have a equalizer hitch took several adjustments for me to get it right,what a pain. This is the first I heard of the A frame part snapping. Thanks for your info. Big safety issue there

Pretty much common sense.

Quick question, my 17 coachman viking TT the power wire from the power center to the battery is so thin , I don’t understand why they would do that any guesses ?????? Thanks ---Bill

I've never seen springs in a weight distribution hitch

Awesome video. We take ours off when we not on the straight black top. Lots of good info. Your right hitches built the same no but you just need to know how to use them. How many you know go and buy biggest hitch they can yes SNAP. VERY VERY WELL DONE EVEY RVER DHOULD WATCH THIS VIDEO. Thanks 🛠️🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦

Get rid of the ranger/suv, get 1 ton dually. Problem solved :) Great video my friend, where we camp people should unhook the weight dist. before they even come into the park. I hear so many of the TT's creaking while they back into a site well above the road grade.

Buddy reminds me of someone who calls every snowmobile a Skidoo. Why not just use the term weight distribution hitch in every case. Seemed pointless continuously referring to it as an equalizer hitch.

Bet every frame is made by lippert. My keystone laredo 5th wheel almost came off. Cheap thin steel. This wasn't a common problem on the older trailers using weight distribution hitches.

Defective frames and defective components. Good video trying to explain why the end user has been the cause of the problem. I wonder why big boat trailers don’t have the same frame issues with a WD HITCH setup ? Might be why your video doesn’t have any connection with your viewership.

My state requires any trailer over 18’ of length to be towed only with a weight distribution hitch. You will be fined and can not continue your trip until you use one if stopped.

Thanks

T.u. i had no idea this was an issue

Moral of the story have more truck than you need to tow a travel trailer & a weight distribution system will not be needed thus no breakage of the trailer tongue

Thanks! But ease up on the excessive cuts - felt like I was having a stroke 🤯

This happens so rarely, it's not a "problem".

They shouldn't be called weight distribution hitches because the weight doesn't move, they should be called leveling hitches because basically they're creating an arch to level the truck and trailer

I had a wd250 3/4 ton truck i would put the trailer weight on the hitch then uses the linkthat gives me little tension to over center the lock. I also used lighter rated bars . Had no problems

When a weight distribution hitch is needed for a 1 ton to tow safely the A frame needs beefed up. Cinda like don’t try becoming an electrician on ytube 😂

This guy has convinced me that RVs and travel trailers are way move trouble than they're worth. Instead, it'll be more cost savings and less headaches to fly me and family to our destination, stay at a nice hotel and order room service.

So then would air bags be better to use? That wouldn't solve the weight distribution problem.

And if your truck can handle it, you will still have a crap ride without bars. Signed: RV Transporter

Just buy the appropriate size truck for towing your Rv with out a weight distributing hitch. Problem solved.

I don't understand why you can't just say "weight distribution hitch"? Nobody else calls them an "equalizer hitch"

Now explain why particle board cabinets are better than real wood.

On frame strength. Manufacturers have over-pinched the pennies and left TOO LITTLE margin in their designs. As RV creature features have increased astronomically, frame strength has not increased in proportion. On my rig, I neither leave my WD bars on when going in/out of a park slot or run with a higher than needed level of tension. I still see evidence of flex movement each day I am on a full day drive. Screws affixing trim and fiberglass outer wall to the wood and aluminum tubular frame parts backing out ever so slightly after one to two days travel. And not on a no-name brand (GD) trailer. Manufacturers better put the engineering margins back up where they belong or the usual litigation / money bleeding thats endemic to seemingly every product type will no doubt start soon. I won’t be paying premium price for a NAME next time and I will be measuring the thickness and build type of the frame of my RV BEFORE purchasing. Otherwise, I’m the dummy for being predisposed to a failure. Also - WDH’s also generally serve the second essential function of having some anti-sway capability that is very necessary if a long or tall TT is being towed (and how many rigs aren’t WAY tall or long nowadays …… a different rant).

Make better frames. My grandparents never had issues with these issues. Campers are not made as well today, like everything else.

Not easy to remove equalizer hitch without jacking up with tongue jack and easing pressure to get the bars off. This info seems ridiculous to just go up a steep ramp. Sounds like fear mongering.

Gee.... Maybe stronger steel and more robust frames, like we had 30 years ago, wasnt such a bad thing, huh? ... Back then, they werent "walking on eggs" trying to get into a McDonalds or the gas station.... 😂😂😂... I will pass on today's flimsy RVs, thank you.🎉

Frames are made like garbage these days. Got nothing to do with equalizer's

Get a Hensley hitch and drive on

Seems extremely inconvenient as well as dangerous to be just stopping anywhere you encounter a hill to drop the bars. I feel like someone should be sued.

Bull shit the hitch is to thin 20 years ago this never happened so stop the bull shit

A lot of these videos don't have the courage or the guts to put on the manufacturer for putting out weak frames. I guess it's easier to blame the customer.

Lol blame the customer, that's what rv dealer's do😂

Dude just say WD hitch. But your selling that brand, right?

Build it right Stop blaming the consumer. For decades this has NOT been happening

This issue is not as common as you make it out to be. Sounds like a lot of fear mongering to scare folks into buying your course.

Every bent hitch I've come across was caused by the owner attempting to take the rig off-road to get to that "ideal" boondocking spot. These campers ain't built for that.

They make these trailers weaker and cheaper all the time and then give you these ridiculous solutions so they won’t break. Who would possibly travel like this, shove your trailers there all crap.

Mabe manufacturers have gotten CHEAP and RV frames are too thin. I disagree 100% Sounds like you are covering the RV industry's fanny. I have NOT heard any certified RV mechanic shoveling this . Yes, it is important to set up the hitch properly. The DEALER should be setting up your rig BEFORE that RV leaves the lot. I find this all propaganda made up by the manufacturer. Nice try.