I tried a ballast hopper and gave up on it. Fine ballast is available from Woodland Scenics; Note that this is nut shell fragments. The problem with it is that because of the particle shape and light weight, one must be very careful in pre-wetting and and applying the final coat. I have found that a toothbrush works better than a brush in cleaning between the track. I pre-wet with rubbing alcohol, which I found flows better than a water/drop of soap mixture. (Alcohol is less viscous than water but is totally miscible.) I use a wood glue solution (30-40% glue in water with some soap) all via eye droppers. I agree with David that wooden toothpicks are very handy. Let me add that I congratulate Dave on finding a method that works for him. I haven't done the bead of glue along the sides but must try it.

Interesting - never seen the glue being laid down first. Nice to see a different approach to what most people agree is one of the less enjoyable aspects of the hobby.

David, just come across your video and have immediately subscribed! Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. I am just about ready to start ballasting my own layout (probably after xmas once Im happy with the first set of tracks are good), and this video will help me immensely.

I agree completely applying full strength white glue on the sides of the roadbed to begin the process of ballasting. Doing this seems be especially important when ballasting N-scale track that comes with plastic roadbed, such as the Kato Unitrack which I use. ...Roy

Great video. Love your accent.

Brilliant video. I have been dreading doing my N gauge layout, still have to do it, but has given me a lot more confidence to do it!

Good tip. Thank you.

I have found that after I lay the bead of glue I take a fan brush and let it glide at an angle to neatly control the glue bead. Also I use Aileen's tacky glue which is clear even when poured out of the tube.

the balast was purchased as Nathan Guage and you can get paint to get rusty rails effect

A cheap ballast material is--------kitty litter. pour the kitty litter through a sieve to capture the small particles. Use the large material for rock scenery.

Looks good but not good enough for me.bought a brand-new peco n gauge track. Last time I ballasted I did it a similar way however I like to keep the track in top condition as its gonna remain fixed for a long time. Therefore I use roofing felt for ballast and fill in elsewhere using flock and fine gravel.

You were concentrating on both edges but didn't see any glue laid down in the "4 foot" between the rails so will have to assume same procedure for that area too.

Very helpful guide, I'm using a similar technique on my layout. Just one question, doesen't all the spraying affect the electrical connection between the trains and the tracks? I've found that only a tiny bit of glue/water mix on the track can prevent trains from getting power. Do you clean all your tracks after ballasting?

Great video - makes the task feel much less daunting! One question though: I'm not clear as to how the ballast is fixed in-between the rails? The video shows that you only applied PVA to the shoulder - do you also apply the pipette solution between the rails as well? Thanks.

Good technique mate! I'm struggling to find a grit that's small enough for N, yours looks about right to me, can you tell me where you get it from? cheers, Dave

I would stay away from the ballast hopper and just do the pinch and squeeze method.

where is your accent from?

Eeeeee.

Only problem with all this grey ballast, first it's out of scale and second all railway I have looked down on from the air (my daily job) the ballast and rails are a shitty rusty brown colour.

Ufff !!. You're gonna have a lot of troubles if you continue ballasting your turnouts this way. I strongly suggest you do a little research about ballasting turnouts, cos the way you do it here is defenitely NOT THE WAY TO GO. Believe me. Cheers, John from Chile.

Sorry my man, this is more of a way how NOT to ballast.