This was one of the most informative brewing videos I've seen on u tube. Thank you for sharing your experience.

Thanks Gary . I appreciate you taking the time to respond to all of out here. Cheers

best video on NE IPA out there -wish i had found it earlier -many thanks

This was brilliant Gary ... well done Sir!

Wow Gary! This is really impressive! So much info here to go through. I am getting ready to brew a NEIPA soon ...plan to use this process. I use many of these processes but not all. Appreciate all your time on this video! Also found I love Golden Promise on my NEIPA! Great job! Sláinte!

Very informative, cheers from Brisbane, Aus 🍻

Lol. I wish I could give you 2 thumbs up. Thank you for sharing your recipe for all of us wanting to try this style.it means a lot. Cheers.

Brilliant video. Cheers man

Great video! Thank you.

That dry hopping method is pretty cool!

Oops, should have read all the comments, I see you already answered this question, good video

For dry hopping, purge the collection jar with Co2 and then turn the fermzilla upside down and then drop the hops in :)

Hi, Some fine tuning I have applied to my NEIPA’s which might prove useful to some, 1. I have a Fermzillla and I ferment at 5 psi, since I’ve found the Lallemand Verdant yeast that I use (from a starter) is very sensitive to too much pressure. 2. I whirlpool in a bag, i.e. I have a 30 litre nylon bag which I put into the kettle after flameout and add the leaf hops to this once temperature hits 80C, I prefer leaf hops (when I can get them) in the whirlpool as they are easier to collect in the bag. 15 minute whirlpool to get full utilisation of the hops then into the Fermzilla through my CFC 3. I’ve never had a successful bio-T so I don’t dry hop at all during fermentation, my entire (huge) dry hop charge is added as I’m cold crashing at 15C. Continue to cold crash at 0C for 2/3 days. In the early stages (12 hours) of the crash I do bubble in CO2 through the Trub jar valves to keep the hops in suspension to get better utilisation but I think this is just my OCD kicking in and I’m not sure it makes any difference 4. I’ve tried adding hops through the trub jar but it’s often an absolute bugger to get off so I use it’s valves to bubble in CO2 from the bottom to give me a positive CO2 pressure as I add the dry hops from the top. 5. Absolutely agree that a sealed transfer is the only way to go. I fill my keg brim full of water plus 5g Sodium Metabisulfate, I then flush this out with CO2 which leaves a tiny amount of water plus SMB in the keg and guarantees no oxygen and no need to “burp” the keg. 6. Transfer the beer under pressure as described and the tiny dilution of SMB will scavenge any oxygen that may (God knows how!) still be present. I’ve had bright Orange beer from the keg after 12 weeks (the longest an NEIPA has ever lasted😀) Cheers.

Just came across your channel and liked and subscribed! I'm more of a WC IPA guy but I shall give this one a try. Genus Brewing recommends adding ascorbic acid in the mash I believe at about 3-5 grams for a 5 gallon batch which is suppose to create the compounds/precursors to make hoppy beers shelf stable. I don't understand the science behind it or why, but that's what they do. You didn't mention any additional oxygenation of the wort (tank, carb stone). Not necessary? Wondering because I don't want to buy that stuff if I don't have to. 😂

Thanks for taking the time to post such a well made informative video. I do closed transfers and have a Fermentasaurus and now have a 10.1 corny keg that I use most of the time. I'm planning on doing my first pressure fermentation soon and your video is very helpful and I'm glad to hear about your improvements from it. I'm constantly trying to improve my dry hopping techniques and agree with you that 1 day is all it takes and find more time leads to astringency. The one issue I have is diacetyl being detectable after the beer is finished when I hop an English yeast like 1318 after fermentation is complete for 1 day and transfer. I believe the problem is the hop creep from the quick dry hopping starting the formation of new diacetyl and not that I didn't do a proper rest before my dry hopping. Have you had this problem and have any fixes for it? I've heard that filtering the yeast out stops this, but don't have that level of filtration nor would I want to for a hazy. I've also heard of enzymes that some commercial brewers use that breakdown the precursors, but I haven't seen them available to home brewers. Cheers

Great video! If using the Lallemand Verdant IPA yeast I've heard it is not recommended to pressure ferment as you would miss on the tropical/apricot esters that yeast is producing. Cheers!

nice beercave!

So Gary. Are you purging the whole keg with CO2 then filling or just getting a good layer of CO2 and waiting a few minutes for separation the starting the transfer then purging again to get rid of the oxygen that is sitting on the CO2 layer? Thanks in advance. Loving your videos and thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.

Thanks for the recipe... going to take a stab at it on my next brew. The Mango puree... all I can find is the sweetened kind. Is that what you recommend? Also, can I introduce it at the end of the boil to help cool the wort to whirlpool temps?

hey man great video, Question for ya... Why do you want to keep calcium under 75 ppm? Just wondering bc to get the amount of chloride I want, my levels are usually above 100. Thanks for the help!

is this recipe on beersmith ?

Where do you purchase your magnets, “I can only find nickel plated and not sure if they are food grade.

Where did you buy those magnets and what grade stainless steel are they?

I believe its ascorbic acid not absorbic acid.