14 years and it's the best video on this subject I have seen. Appreciated, thanks!

2:13 "It's goggle time". His life was building up to that moment :)

Still the best DIY instrument cable tutorial after all those years.

"Wow... That is so tight... It's great..."

Thank you Robert. I am a DIY person and this tutorial and the resources available through TubeDepot are priceless. Thanks for showing me how to fish.

An example of tech as an artform. This was wonderful, I wish my hands were that steady when soldering.

I just made one of these cables and it was a fun project that gave me a great feeling and professional looking product at the end.

Finally got around to making a cable with your instructions and the same components. Other than my solder joints not being quite as pretty it came out great! It'll make a great Christmas gift for my bass playing buddy. Now to make some for me. Thanks Robert!

Thanks, Paul Rudd. You're a very talented man.

finally, someone who knows to pre flux the copper before tining it. BRAVO SIR!!!

I've fixed a bunch of cables or replaced the jacks over the years but I definitely learned a couple things today. Thanks for the video

Incredible how strong those amphenol terminals are. I rolled a cable with those over a decade ago. The housings are now heavily worn with dings and scratches (some even made deliberately trying to break it), but they still function perfectly. Never need tightened up either like the Switchcraft design stuff. Only draw back is how f'ing hard it is to get those suckers on. It was a 2 men with vice grips kinda job, but it definitely paid off.

Great video! I was getting tired of fixing my old cables as well. Now, I make my own cables. I buy the cable in bulk and buy the jacks. For longer cables, it a good way to save some money.

I put one of these together and there are a couple of places where I ran into easy to solve issues. First when you go to put the first backshell over the TechFlex, it seems straightforward in the video. I had to use a piece of tape to keep the TechFlex "closed" and "pointed" to get it through the backshell. It also makes getting the other parts for the second end easier to get on. The TechFlex is like working with a spring. Also when you go to solder the second connector on the cable it is helpful to pull the TechFlex away from the end (bunching it up) and then use a piece of tape to hold it against the cable. Afterwards just take off the tape and the TechFlex will spring back to the end. The other thing is that is was very hard to pull the main connector portion over the TechFlex and cable. The extra little bit of diameter makes it tough to compress the purple cable clamp down enough. If you don't get the connector down all the way, the portion which plugs into the guitar/amp comes out at an angle. I also cut the soldered shielding off as tight as possible but still had to file off the "stub" left behind to help get the connector to go over everything. In the end is is a nice looking cable that feels quite solid. I'll probably make a couple more for an effects loop send/return.

Very Clear representation! Great Job!

I've found that the heat shrink isn't needed with thw techflex and the build looks cleaner without it. It doesn't add much in the way of strain relief anyway. I only use heat shrink when not using Techflex and it goes under the housing.

Thanks Rob for making these videos, Great energy. I hope you make more!

Very nice cord. I got pretty much this same set up and wow. Took me little bit to get the soldering down, but I'm getting better. Thanx for the great vid by the way it helps a lot.

BEST SOLDERING VIDEO EVER!!!!

Thanks again for the great explanation. I typically keep to totally passive circuitry, both on the axe and the floor.

@8:38 "wow, that is so tight. That is GREAT." haha, good video. I'll have to make one now.

I noticed a huge difference with the high clarity plug, it sounded like I had a 2 ft cable instead of a 20 foot cable. The capacitence dropped so much that the sound produced was more natural than any other I used. Most people I know say a cable is a cable so I did a blind test at Sam Ash and the cables with the G&H connector won hands down 8 out of 10 times. One person said it was nice to hear what he wanted to with out the use of an e.q. I to have used them all but was just suggesting G&H.

You should trim the shield cable before you solder it to ground. After it is sticking through the hole. You can occasionally damage the connection trimming it up afterward, especially if you end up cutting into the soldered joint.

wish i had listened to the type of cable to buy...went to radioshack and bought some cheap cable with braided shield and it's so much harder (well, maybe because i am new to this) to work with :( will be ordering this cable from tubedepot next time lol, thanks for the great vids they really help

cut the shield to the right lenght before you fix it so you have a nice end and you can prevent microcracks if you are carefully you can use a lighter for the heat shrink

Golden rule of knives broken at 3:25. That being said, this dude is incredible. Wish I was an electrical engineer or whatever...

Dude, you are such a nerd! That's a compliment. Thanks for the great tips. You know what you're talking about. I've never seen anyone get so excited about a cable. Unless, of coarse, as BubbaSmurfingSon noted, "that's what she said."

nice job, guys, enjoyed the soldering tricks, too.

Yeah, can't wait to get started, while I'm at it I might aswell rewire my cab as the wire's used are a bit flimsy and the connectors have corroded! Thanks again man, goggle scene was a laugh too, keep up the great work and videos!

I got the red techflex, although I'm also quite partial to the patriot coloring! Maybe I'll get that one for my next cable. I bought everything you used in the video: Mogami cable, Amphenol connectors, techflex, and heat shrinks...

its better to cut the shield shorter than the centercontuctor, so if you pull on the cable the the force is applied on the shield, which usually is stronger than the conductor.

Loved this video, think I'm going rewire my entire rig! Cheers!

Thanks. I think I read it already, but will check it out and reread it again. It was good stuff.

on the mogami cable you MUST strip back the black shield (as he shows) if not your cables will test good with a meter but they are not and will suck the tone outta your signal

very informational and very educational, 10/10 must watch if your trying to do the exact same thing! it will help you alot start to finish!

@monkeyxx Yes, built many a cable in my day. You don't need to hold the iron on there forever. The technique I am speaking of is common practice, even when soldering solid state electronics (ICs, transistors, etc).

ha ha Overstreet! I stumbled on this vid and here you are. Love yall!

@commetsmasher Rofl, I noticed how he made all those sounds but the closing my eyes experience took it to a whole new level.

From what I understand, you should use 2 conductor cable and only attach the shield to ground at one end

So what size fits the Mogami W2524 cable when it comes to the flex tube and heat shrink? You have 2 different size flex and a few different sizes in heat shrink. Does that cable fit the 3/8th heat shrink and the 1/4" flextech?

great way to get a solder fracture in your shield connection

Very informative. Could you post how to build an XLR cable?

Thank You for Your kind reply. I have to admit that Your accomplishment is very accurate, compared to mine, humbly said Best Regards

Bravo! nice nice video i made cables in past but here in cancun mexico i cant find amphenol conector or tech flex ..so i make my cables just with cable and neutrik or swichcraft plugs and termofit i also use flukes XD que buen video me gusto mucho .. yo aprendi a hacer cables pero yo no conocia la malla de colores que pones great vid!!

You should probably point out that you should put the connectors on first the second time. I can't count how many times I've soldered up the second end, and then realized the other sleeve is still on the table :)

Nutrik connectors made in lichtenstein near German the best and love mention of 'lead' solder allways runs better

Awesome tutorial.

Could you show us how to solder on a right angle Neutrik or Amphenol connector on the same cable?

Excellent Video.

Wow man, way to inspire me to make not only wires, but try my hand on an amp!!! Youre awesome!, by the way could you make a tutorial in how to make a two channel amp as in one vibrato channel like on a fender twin reverb or super reverb?

Awesome video! ...where's the video about fixing the old cables with switchcraft connectors!? haha

Great video except .... you didn’t show the final trimming of the outer and inner shield to final length before soldering. 4:30 and 4:37 mark. Also you say that 26 feet of Techflex is required for a 20 foot cable. On your website it says add 1 foot for every 10 ft of cable. This would be 22 feet. I tested it on a few feet of cable and it works out to 1” of techflex per foot of build or 20” round up to 24” for a 20 foot cable would be +2’.

What size heat shrink do you use to secure the jacks?

So with tech flex.. you can use 3/8s instead of 1/4 and get it on over pre existing guitar cables... tends to be thicker and looks a bit better.

Keep in mind, I'm not saying it was hard. But on the model jacks I got, the connection points weren't quite so simple. For the outer shielding, I ended up snipping off a small tab to make it snug. I'm sure there are plenty of people, like me, who are watching this video because this is their first soldering attempt. Hell

I have an old LP body guitar my dad learned on that I gutted completely. It's only got one pickup mount so I would only install one pickup (I was thinking a Seymour Duncan Pearly Gates) and wire it to the pots switch and input but I have no clue what I'm doing.

Rob...you da MAN!

Have you tried the G&H High Clarity plug's? They blow away any other connector. I have used them all and for studio work they are the best.

For a novice like myself, wouldn't it be better / safer to buy wire crimpers/cutters for the cable? I often (with a knife) end up usually taking out the shield.

few other things: 1) As far as heat flex tubing, should I get 3/8" size or something else? 2) I'd also like to get a few of the cylindrical clear plastic protecters that go under the metal piece you screw on. They still protect but can be slid on and off unlike heatshrink tubing, you sometimes see them inside store bought cables. I don't know what to call them or where to get them. Any ideas? 3) thin right angle connectors Any specific places or websites that you'd recommend?

@TubeDepotTV - Okay, I saw your reply in my Inbox, and was a little confused because you misspelled 'goggle' to 'google'... I wasn't complaining about the line, I thought it was funny and I like it. (Hence the smiley face emoticon)

Flux is an unsung hero among happy amateurs. It really makes it alot easier

Awesome DIY video. Thanks!

Just placed an order so I can build my own cable!

This is great for a standard instrument cable. I am looking for a 1/8 with 90 degree bend connector 20 foot of cable and a standard 1/4 connector going to the amp. This will be used for a violin. Would there be any difference in construction with exception to the one different connector?

great video i must say you go into great detail thanks

I just finished building my cable. When I trim the shield wire there is a small bump left on the outside of the connector hole that causes the assembled connector's 1/4" shaft to come out of the body on a bit of an angle. Is there any way to prevent this?

Why do we need the Tex Flex and how about using electric tape instead of the heat shrink?

Wouldn't it be about thousand times more probable that you cut your finger with the knife rather than getting a piece of metal in your eye when cutting the excess ground shield?

Any point to the heat shrink? You have the anchor to hold the cable in place, and there arent any exposed parts needed to be insulated by the heat shrink... It is just to hold the flex wrap? Looks?

8:38 Ok :D

If you are watching this in 2020, here is the parts list, since the url in the video description doesn't work: Mogami W2524 Instrument Cable - tubedepot.com/products/mogami-w2524-instrument-cable Amphenol TM2PJ 1/4" Straight Audio Plug - tubedepot.com/products/amphenol-tm2pj-1-4-straight-audio-plug Amphenol TM2PNJ 1/4" Straight Audio Plug - tubedepot.com/products/amphenol-tm2pnj-1-4-straight-audio-plug Techflex Expandable Sleeving - 1/4" - tubedepot.com/products/techflex-expandable-sleeving-1-4 Assorted Color 3/8" Heat Shrink - tubedepot.com/products/assorted-color-3-8-heat-shrink Weller WTCPT Professional Soldering Station - Couldn't find it at the website, but I personally recommend Hakko FX-888d Stahl Variable Temperature Soldering Station - tubedepot.com/products/stahl-variable-temperature-soldering-station Heat Sink with Cushion Grip Handle - tubedepot.com/products/heat-sink-with-cushion-grip-handle Kester "44" 1 lb 60/40 Solder .031" Diameter - tubedepot.com/products/kester-44-1-lb-60-40-solder-031-diameter Weller 1000W Heat Gun - Couldn't find it at the website Xcelite 5" General-purpose Shearcutter - Couldn't find it at the website Universal Wire Stripper - tubedepot.com/products/universal-wire-stripper Liquid Rosin Flux - tubedepot.com/products/liquid-rosin-flux Flux Dispenser Tube - tubedepot.com/products/flux-dispenser-tube Polycarbonate Safety Glasses - tubedepot.com/products/polycarbonate-safety-glasses

-2- (cont from above) 3) I have two kinds of solder, one is 40/60 the other is 60/40...which one is better for patch cables? 4) My cable is weaved together and is a pain in the **** to unwind. You seem to do it so easily, I know your cable is different....but any tricks to help with weaved cable? 5) Should I be soldering the outside wire or inner wire core first? 6) since I'm using right angle connectors with less space, is it ok to not apply solder to the wire before attaching? GREAT VID

Does the copper shield have to be soldered to both connectors?

Do you have any concerns that the heavier center conductor will have increased resistance? I thought the very light gage was used for a reason?

Rob! you keep surprising me when I see your face on these videos brother!

The word back in the 70's & 80's was... anything over 18' and there are high-end losses. With todays cables, I'd totally agree with you at 20'. I still have my 70's WhirlWind coil cord. It definitely sound different when A/B'd with the newer cables I've built. I also have a 15' Belden/Switchcraft cables from 1980. It has a S.S. ground shroud and is indestructible, accept it's too stiff and tends to knot and twist too much. It's sounds great, but I guess it's time to come into this century, huh?

@TubeDepotTV Thanks for the info, I'll see what i can do.

"It's goggle time..." NEEEEEERD!! :)

Is the heat shrink just for looks? won't it pull off the connector since it isn't secured under the connector?

@TubeDepotTV ok gotcha there. im talking about the ground conductor. it looks like it would short out against the casing. i went ahead and built the cable figuring the case would just be grounded too. inerestingly i built 2 and one works fine. but one drops the volume level down by about half or so... didnt think that could be an outcome. ideas on why?

Hey i recently bought a monster bass cable, and the difference in the punch and low end compared to a standard instrument cable is pretty significant. How can i build my own cables that will give me that low end and punch?

I too would like to know this. Also what is the point of the techflex? Is it just for aesthetic purposes?

Thank you. Will do.

If the seperate flux necessary? Isnt flux in most of the soldering iron?

so how much would I save ? Presuming I had a heat gun and solder gun which I dont.

What solder do you recommend for this and what liquid flux are you using? Is there an advantage to using the liquid flux rather than flux core solder?

thanks for the quick reply, great advice!

Is it ok to leave the flux without removing it? If so, what do you use and/or how do you remove it? I always thought flux had to be removed in some kind of bath. Thanks in advance.

Hi What size of heat Shrink is recomended for Mogami 2425?

what's the point of the heatshrink being outside? every other cable I've seen has the heatshrink wrapped over the conductors with the plug casing on top of it. I ordered these amphenol connectors and noticed the ground lug on the plug will come in contact with the shell (case of the plug) once put together... does this matter? isnt the heatshrink supposed to go over the conductors to protect them from shorting? I've also seen the heatshrink go over just the tip to prevent shorts to ground..

Can you pls link the items that were used to tubedepot.com it would be really helpful!

What brand of flush cutters are you using in this video?

I want the Amphenol TM2PJ 1/4" connector in the video but a Right angle plug on one end, and I don't see any on your website. What do I do?

Great videos thanks

cool video. btw you look like John Stockton :P

IT'S GOGGLE TIME

I'm new to soldering: Isn't it against the rules to put the solder on the tip of the iron and then go to the wire? Or is that only for when making joints?

I've had a three cables but all them are broken inside, what I can do?

Where to get instrument cable without those connectors?