Hello James! Papa T here. Yes we went right over some real soft ground. I have used this in grey silt, sand, mud many less than perfect situations. My day job is COO of a Transit Authority. I have been building on subpar soils for years and quite honestly, where i was introduced to geogrid. The ground at work is literally fill on swamp. When building structure almost always requires driven piles. Based on what limited info you have given me I would level and lay the geogrid. Then place your stone on that. Probably 6 to 10 inches over the super soft areas. But mind you I drive a 30 foot motor home over this drive at Triple T and she don't move. At work we drove about seventy 35 foot transit buses over it for years before paving. The geogrid acts as a cradle and works as a spread support layer and allows the stone to have a surface to lock into. If you would like to chat about what you are doing send a pm on breathecountry Facebook or send me a friend request on fb. Brian Trautman

​@@bowood1983 Thank you for the advice. Honestly, never built a road before. Never used a skid steer, backhoe or bull dozer in my life. Now I have to build a road through some of the nastiest back country I have ever seen, and I am an avid hiker when not driving tractor trailers! Doesn't seem too hard though once I understood the basics, and the road will be straight, flat and on fairly hard clay. It is wet because the water doesn't soak into the ground, it pools on top about ankle deep with tree stumps and logs everywhere. Flat level ground for the most part, so lots of road base and problematic drainage system. I figure 70-100 dump trucks worth of material and hit it with a Bomag BW900. $10k worth of heavy equipment rental. Multi year process with my limited resources ;) I would write you on Facebook but I gave up my account a decade ago. I definitely appreciate the reply though! Regards, James Anchor Point Alaska

Well I'd throw my number to ya but it's youtube. I wouldn't worry about the water laying. Just give each side of the road a slight ditch so the water can go somewhere and also an occasional cross drain or culvert. Our drives end up at least 6 to 10 inches deep mostly. I also top the rock with asphalt grinding. If you don't have access to that use 304.

@@bowood1983 Will do, thank you. It is going to be a lot of work, but I'll also pick up some new skills. I bought the property (9.5 acres) for $17k five years ago, and now properties with roads are selling for $50-70k with no improvements so it will be worth it. Land in Alaska, especially around Homer with its population growth, is expensive. Shocking because Alaska is the biggest state with the smallest population, but it is what it is. Maybe I'll do a KZfaq video about it, maybe... Next up is the road survey, should be around $3k. It was already done but the survey stakes are all missing except for two that I found.

Hell gonna retire soon and I know how to run all that equipment. Maybe I'll come up and be some free help. You wanna come to Ohio just give is a shout we would be glad to host ya!

It's not technically declared a wetland. If it was a wetland delineation performed. I think it is always a good idea to know the rules. This ground is not a wetland. It would be considered a flood plain. Different rules. Good luck I hope that helps

You cant use millings/grindings in a floodplain any longer unfortunately

Haha we just didn’t have much choice. I think Trumbull county Ohio is just one giant wetland. I’ve turkey hunted some public land around the area and it’s all the same 😂. The geogrid helped A TON though! -Brian

2s and 3s but I would have used a bigger first course if it would have been available.

Hey K. E. K. here is their site! www.tensarcorp.com