Thanks! The cable clamps occurred to me walking through the hardware store.

Thanks! Good luck with your project!

Thank you!

Thank you!

If a twisted t-post bothered me, then I would never sleep. I hit with tractor, bull uses for scratching, car runs off road through fence, etc. I Bend it back and keep going. 😂😂😂

Thanks you! My t-posts are spaced about 24 feet apart. The only time I use anything other than a t-post is when the fence needs to make a turn or at the top and bottom of a significant elevation change. On a gradual slope, I just keep going with the t-posts.

I have a lot of t-posts that were already here. I probably could have sold them and upgraded, but it was just more convenient. The timless posts are definitely the way to go if starting from scratch.

How often do you have grounding problems with the T posts and insulators? I saw one post that mentioned a specific issue with LockJawzs getting consistently grounded out with bird poop

That's gotta be a misprint 🤣

There's a few different ways to go with that based on what you're trying to accomplish. 1. You can terminate each wire with an insulator and then use jumpers to connect them, as you mentioned. 2. You can use a single end insulator to make the inside turn (this is what I usually do). www.dareproducts.com/products/electric-fence-insulators/corner 3. Or, for an outside corner, you can use a corner post bracket/lag or some type of tube insulator. kencove.com/fence/detail.php?code=TT-824731 The last two allow you to keep one continuous wire and reduces the number of insulators needed. Hope this helps!

@@PlaneViewFarm excellent info! Appreciate it brother. Your videos and the humor are superb. We are just north of you some in Iowa. Take care and thanks again!

No apologies needed. The inline strainer is galvanized metal, just like the wire. So, the current passes through without any issues. Only one supply wire is needed. The only problem that you could have would be if there's too little tension on the wire, causing a loose connection. Even then, it's unlikely to be a problem. Good question!

@@PlaneViewFarm thanks man. I am so stumped with this. I have the post insulators on the end posts and thought my tension springs would fit into them. nope. so now I guess I put the tension spring with tensioner inline together and use that as my guide for tension on the other 6 strands?

@NickKnox7 Yes, it is very common to do just that. In the end, the best way to do it is the way that's easiest for you. If something doesn't work where you thought it would, move it to where it does work. Keep going, you'll get it figured out 👍

If I'm understanding you correctly, yes. You just terminate the line at the end of the run with an insulator. A jumper wire provides power to each strand that you want energized. I hope that helps you.

@@PlaneViewFarm yes, thank you..

3 will be enough, spaced 10 feet apart.

Absolutely!

I've done it both ways. I like working top down better. I'm curious about the 2000 lbs of pull though, Kencove says no more than 250 for high tensile wire.

@@PlaneViewFarm the 2k is Oklahoma wire specks it will relax back to the 250 to 300 as every thing falls in place. The wire on top first is just putting it in your way. Ya fine for the little you do but you start doing 1/2 mile plus a day it's trouble especially if barb

🤣🤣🤣