mate, I am impressed by the logical and factual reasoning, and by your humbleness, you are not afraid to ask for help or advise. Great role model for others attempting to do their own projects So, I think I know why you only own a TIG, but please share why no MIG in your shed.

Great welding job mate, I like that your considering the other parts that might be affected by the heat, truely good engineering!

RIP Chris from Fabricators Warehouse😔 Was such an amazing fabricator taken too soon!!!

credit where credits due, some nice work, worthy in my books, humble and common sense approach. great to see the next gen having a go,

If you want to leak test it your half way there. Make up a gasket and bolt it back on the RHS you used to weld it with. Then make up a blanking plate where the turbo sits, make up a gasket to suit. Then drill a holes in the blanking plate and tap it to suit some fittings, tee in a gauge and a ball valve to dead head the system. Fill with compressed air and close off ball valve, see how quickly it leaks and use soapy water to find where leaks are.... otherwise it's a very nice job mate. Keep up the good work....👍👍👍

Great work man. The Welding will be question mark for a few people who might watch this video. But reality is ? We can't be the best at everything we do. At the end of the day, no one will be under the bonnet checking out your welds. Big Thumbs Up. Thanks for bringing us along to show your work in progress. Peter.

Can't be wasting that vinegar man I feel you there! 🤣 Mint manifold man, you should be hella stoked 👌🏾

Awesome work fabricating the manifold mate, looks fantastic. Someone else mentioned the skid factory and their useful information - couldn’t agree with that recommendation more. They built up a Stagea with a turbo V8 and did ceramic coated log manifolds, there’s a Q&A video on Mighty Car Mods’ other channel MCMTV2 where Al explains the science behind ceramic coated log manifolds and how keeping the heat in the exhaust and out through the turbo is good for quick spool / responsiveness etc. Well worth a look. Keep up the awesome work mate, loving the build series!!

Sure this is a tad late Richard but I took Luke Dale DPUK’s advice and fastens every manifold with Nordlock mechanical washers. Clever design and supposedly as good as it gets for heat cycling especially exhaust and turbo fixings

Always impressed mate, keep it up!

Exhaust manifold came up great, keep up the good work 👍

Looks good mate, she’ll keep 👌Go for studs for sure. Have a look into patroldocta for the airbox

Loving the content and detail mate, great build series!

Looks good Rich! It doesn't take long for turbo beanies to fall apart along the seams so go with the dimpled heat shield and mould it over the the turbo. Make sure you have a 10mm air gap between the heat shield and turbine housing, air's the best insulator. With mounting the turbo go with ARP stainless studs with flange headed pinch nuts. You want roll formed studs not the china shit on ebay. After a few heat cycles they will snap off when you go to retighten them. You can get good quality pinch nuts from a VW dealer for 3 bucks each

This turned out great 👌 very happy to hear the hot side pipe will be redone, V1 was a little eghh. Keep it up man this is brilliant!

Ceramic coating on the turbo and dump pipe, good quality turbo blanket and heat wrap for the dump and she'll be right 🤙🏼

Can’t wait to see the exhaust! I’m at the point personally, fabricate or pay excessive money, or buy cheap! I’ll take the fab option!!

You can get 30° flanger spacers for turbo manifolds, but the custom one will work great also. Great work mate

Welds are decent enough man. Great job.

Looks good mate, keep it up

Great job Richard, well done mate. Those weld look pretty good to me buddy. Seeya Rob

Nice work mate great effort!

Welds look ok for "terible job" I've seen tig stitches that look worse than stick with slag and I've seen stick welds that look better than those instagram rainbow welds, so you're ok :D and the manifold will outflow the factory one!

Turbo beanies are the go can touch them so they keep heat in more then ceramic coating

Looks mint

Good job on the manifold, should work great. Did you check the flatness of the flanges with a straight edge/steel rule? You would usually still get some pull no matter how hard you torque it down. Without presetting (a nightmare to work out) the flange, you have done everything you can to keep it straight, so hopefully it will only need a quick touchup on a linisher to straighten it out

Ceramic coating should seal up any pin holes.

Good work bud I mad the same style on my tb45t patrol I had problem with the manifold pulling away at each end after a few solid heat cycles I've made a low mount manifold for it now and I've made solid brackets from flange to flange so the turbo stays in the same spot and the pipes can move fingers crossed it wont warp the manifold again and deffently use studs not bolts being alloy it will strip the threads fitting and removing it

Diesel pump uk for washers that lock

Do you watch the skid factory on KZfaq? Alot of great info on there that you might get something of value out of with the build mate. Nice work though keep up the vids 👍

you should be happy with yrself, u did a great job

Studs mate, seen a few B series ones back out so studs locked in and locking buts possible wire retained nuts

I drilled my water feed an return ,banjo bolts ,cross holes ,out to the same size as the bottom hole ,,it seem to help with my turbo not getting hot ,,an no more creeking sounds ,after I turn the engine off..I dunno iff it was the rite thing to do ,,but it seems to have worked..cheers..

Two thumbs up from me👍 AND enjoy the tasty salad with dinner 🤣

I think that mamba " flange dump pipe " is going to make boost creep issues. Anytime we put a high flow cat or decent intercooler kit on a xr6t the std ford waste gate hole just can't keep up with flow and overboosting is a issue. Port the waste gate hole 100%

Have you looked at inconnel studs? It’s a high temperature stainless and as someone suggests maybe lock wires.

You have heard of exhaust wrap haven't you and you can get hotside covers that drop the temperature by a dramatic amount

Get some nord lock washers for the exhaust stud nuts 👍

Nice kit that. Pressure test it before you coat it.

Studs and cone lock nuts 100%

Go ceramic coating. Blankets exposed to mud and water don't last long, assuming the Cruiser gets used as a 4WDrive.

Hey mate quick question? Just a comment you made in 1 of your earlier videos I’m just about to start my build similar to yours and you mentioned it’s harder to get it engineered if the 80 chassis has had abs? Any chance you have any more info about that? Or any other hot tips? Cheers Matt

i would go with studs removing will not damage the head you are threading and unthreading on the stud not in the heads threads

I wouldn’t worry about the heat from turbo to the rocker cover. But u welded a exhaust manifold already. I would bent a 1-2mm plate and bolt on to the exhaust manifold at turbine housing side to guard the heat alittle. If ur afraid of that heat reaching to the rocker cover seals.

Coat it and put a blanket but don’t cheap out use a dei one or something similar cheapy ones catch fire you will be pleasantly surprised with under hood temps

Hydrochloric acid would have that mill scale 100% removed in 10-15mins. Flapper discs etc are painful as they heat the mill scale and just move it around clogging up flapper or grinding discs. There are specific diamond coated wire wheels but these are ridiculously expensive. Acid will last a year no problems.

To test pin holes my mate uses water or oil

Good stuff bud... have a crack and share the love.. cheers

Bolts, not studs. The thread ends in the studs are a weak point. Nice one mate. I like it

Should have just spaced out the cast iron manifold. You had the perfect 12mm steel spacer from your custom one.

You can just flip the low mont it works both ways who ever sold you the top mont would be Laughing 😂 so hard right now lol

Vw jx