I appreciate you taking the time to share. We had those on our last round of cages and used carabiners to hook on the top of the cage when we needed to hold them open. I like both styles. One style prevents predators from pushing in / one style prevents rabbits from getting out when handling litters.

😊I’m so glad you like the videos. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for the feed back. I'm so glad your getting some use out of it.

same here!

I'm happy to. Thank you so much for watching.

Thank you. Glad I could help. Now let's see if I time the next video perfectly.

Absolutely. I'm doing it. That's awesome of you to share your idea. I appreciate the feed back.

thank you for watching and commenting!

lol. thanks so much for that. This comment made me smile. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

@@TheRabbitryCenter I saw several months ago many of your doors push in & up with Alfalfa on them. I can't find that video anymore. I'm designing a new set of enclosures ( four Rabbits wide × two Rabbits tall) total of eight Rabbits [each rabbit enclosure is approximately 30 in Cube / 30in × 30in × 30in] and I'm using that style door that pushes in and up. I would like a closer look at the style latch [or a link I can order that kind] that you use on those doors to hold them in & up out of the way please.

@@littlekingcobrasden4217 You bet thanks for asking here you go. amzn.to/2BwK2tG

@@TheRabbitryCenter @The Rabbitry Center Really! It's just 3" Carabiner keychain? I'm very surprised! Because the video I Remember, at least the part I remember, seem like you pushed down a little bit before pushing the door in and up to unlatch it. This led me to believe it was some kind of spring-loaded latch. While waiting to see a response from you. I found rabbitnipple.com, Amazon, and eBay all have latches like these: images.app.goo.gl/jmMYDCNrGVKkic1H6 Considering at the moment I only needed eight of them and most of these places had them in 25 or more I found some at rabbit nipples. Com where they were selling them in groups of 10. I can't remember offhand, I think it only cost like $15 after shipping for one group of 10. So for now that's the option I went with. I'm thinking if I mount one in the bottom center of each door that would give me a latch to hold it closed as well as when I push the door open will give me a latch to hold it up out of the way. My original plan was to build this 10ft tall by 10-foot which would have been 4 rabbits tall and 4 rabbits wide but after seeing what two rabbits tall looks like I decided to stop there and if I need more enclosures I'll build another set. At 5 ft tall sitting on Hay dock blocks, that's plenty High Enough. If I did a third layer on that, that would cause me to have to have a step ladder for the third or fourth row of rabbits. kind of wish there was a way I could show you a photo or short cell phone video of what I have. And maybe from there see what suggestions you could offer for future and closures of a similar design that would allow me to hold more rabbits in the same amount of space. Currently each individual rabbit enclosure is approximately 30 in tall. So two rabbits tall makes it approximately 60 in which is almost 5 feet by the time I put it on top of haydock blocks. I'm thinking maybe the next set I build, each individual enclosure will only be 15 in tall. This would allow me the four rabbits tall within the same overall Heights space. At the moment, I have five rabbits total. One buck that acts like he doesn't know what he's supposed to do with the dose ( at first I thought maybe he was just too young yet, but I've had him close to a year now.) and 4 dose. Because I only have three original enclosures that are fully latchable that's what I'm keeping all five of the rabbits in for now. This means the buck lives with the doe that really want to breed and is a proven breeder Doe, two of the dogs live together and window gets her space all to herself. My goal is to allow each rabbit to have his or her own space unless breeding. Which of course as soon as these latches arrive, and I set 10 haydock blocks or the enclosure to balance on so it's up off the ground ( one in each corner and several in the middle to support the weight from Boeing down in the center) I can start using these enclosures. At the moment I only have six blocks I'll have to go buy four more haydock blocks. For now, just as a building surface , I have it sitting on a pickup truck bed tool box that is close to the same height of haydock blocks. Later, when money permits, I'll eventually build a wood shed around these with a metal roof. For now due to lack of materials and money I've just placed a couple of corrugated sheets of tin over the top so they can have some shade and some shelter from rain. I do have them all on a auto watering system from an extremely well filtered garden hose system. I chose this method of watering because too often not go out there and find water and bowls tipped over or empty. so I tried watering nipples fed from a 5 gallon bucket on a hose. Well that ended the water bowls being tipped over but there were a few times I went out and would find the five gallon bucket with the empty faster than normal. So I added a float valve inside the five gallon bucket and hooked up a filter garden hose to it. now the garden hose makes sure that bucket stays full in the bucket acts as a pressure regulator from the garden hose and ensures all the rabbit nipples have water supplied to them at all times. And during the winter, I can drop a fish aquarium heater down in the five gallon bucket to make sure the water doesn't freeze on them. I have a similar system setup for my chickens with a 55 gallon water barrel and a fish aquarium heater. So the fish heater has proven to work. I just haven't figured out how to fit a float valve inside a 55 gallon barrel without cutting it open. I'm trying to keep the plastic 55 gallon drum sealed so leaves and bugs don't land in it and mosquitoes don't breed in it. I could easily do it with a metal one with a clamp on lid but then I have to worry about rust. I have heard of plastic 55-gallon drums with resealable lids but I have never seen one. of course the ones I've heard of, they're usually talking about making moonshine with them. I don't know much about that stuff. I think they said they stored the mash (whatever that is) In it or something like that?

@@littlekingcobrasden4217 Thanks for taking the time to write your comment and thanks for watching. If you need any more cage parts check out our storefront. www.amazon.com/shop/therabbitrycenter?listId=1JX4S4TJ49ZOR

You're welcome!

thank you very much

I make these hide boxes. It's pretty simple. Here's a video on it. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eZeEnL2c3bamqo0.html I'll do a video on the hay shelf. Great idea thanks.

Absolutely. Here you go the audio isn't great but I hope you still find it helpful. Thanks for watching. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gbufgrmk3NjUfKc.html

Thanks for watching

best of luck

Thank you for commenting!

Rats would be a game changer. We're fortunate to not have rats in this part of Michigan. They have them in Detroit but not in Bath. We keep all the feed in the cage up top with their water bowl. We check the runs daily for digging and tracks. We add dirt and try to secure the perimeter the best we can. I also built my last run with hardware cloth where I used to build them with 2"x 4". But I did this to prevent kits from getting out not preventing something from getting in. But it does work both ways.

Thank you for watching!

I recommend it

14 gauge/1"x 2" wire. There's a couple different options when you click on the blue links below in the video description. It'll take you right to amazon where there's all the information.

I had a couple like that I started making the bottoms a 1/2” smaller it helps with that. You can also try the much more expensive 14G if you don’t mind buying a roll from a big supplier. Best of luck

I wondered why some of my nz had red and some have blue eyes it's hard to tell with black rabbits but ya neat... Mine are not purebred but ya very cool... I'm always watching for your videos love them :)

@@wildedibles819 You don't know what that means to me to hear someones looking forward to the videos I'm uploading. Thank you for watching and commenting.

@@TheRabbitryCenter your welcome I love learning more about rabbits and you do it so nicely :) you said that you do it cuz you love to it shows xoxox bunny kisses and snow balls xoxox lol

If you click the video description below - show more- all the Cage wire has links and descriptions Here's another informative video about cages kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gqpnea6pnruZmWg.html

@@TheRabbitryCenter thx brother

Tractors work great! I just wanted a permanent hutch that I didn't have to move and was predator proof and offered a little more room. This seems to keep the very productive. Keeping them separated and off the ground means No parasites or injuries to worry about and no unscheduled births. Now I'm happy with my system but there's other effective ways to raise rabbits and tractors are one of them. Best of luck with your Rabbit production and Thanks for watching!

It comes down to the genes that are getting inherited to the offspring. Watch this video to learn more about how your rabbits offspring get their genes. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l7d6eN2BvN6yiqs.html&t

If you can find 14 gauge 1/2" x 1" I'd use it. Rabbits will do great with 16 gauge 1/2 x 1" but it's always the most important thing to concentrate on a balanced diet to avoid an over weight rabbit

Yes they're inter changeable You ll only need one. You grinder will need a cutting wheel

That sounds like it'll work hopefully the manure will still fall through the cage floor. Bottom

Here’s some videos to help you get through the winter kzfaq.info/sun/PLNYLb_YcNZX1a2ro_10aliXRZsjqP0XTl

When I have to cut a lot, I'll break it out. So much better than cramping up your hand from too much snipping. Thanks for watching.

A series sounds like a lot of fun. I enjoy my rabbitry as well. It's turned out to be such a rewarding hobby. Sounds like you'll have a lot of cages to build. I'll try to get that video out as quick as I can. Thanks for watching.

@@TheRabbitryCenter among some other things I have planned for the not so distant future I'm gonna build my bunnies a little house (basically a glorified shed).

Books- On our amazon page we have several rabbit books that are very good. Check them out when you get a chance www.therabbitrycenter.com/the-rabbitry-centers-favorite-products/

I’ve seen cages with 1” x 1” Cage floor bottoms for mature rabbits however young rabbits and kits would get stuck and fall through the cage floor when they are small

www.therabbitrycenter.com/the-rabbitry-centers-favorite-products/

I purchase it on amazon it shows up in a few days. Right now it may take a little longer. It's nuts how long you can look online for cage wire. This is the best stuff with the right gauge thickness and it's galvanized which will stay rust free.

No but if I did I'd use corrugated plastic. The same product that I use to roof my hutch. I'd drain it into an Eves trough. I'd angle the trough towards the downspout which would drain into a bucket and swap out the buckets every few days. If I was going set up a stacking system it'd be something like that.

No but if I did I'd use corrugated plastic. The same product that I use to roof my hutch. I'd drain it into an Eves trough. I'd angle the trough towards the downspout which would drain into a bucket and swap out the buckets every few days. If I was going set up a stacking system it'd be something like that.

1/2 x 1” I just launched a video with all the products I use in the description here you go kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gqpnea6pnruZmWg.html

Making your cages will last much longer. If you need a cage or would like to get started and are willing to build down the line than store cages would work for you. But you'll get much longer use from a galvanized cage vs the store bought;. They last a 3-5 years at the most.

Hanks for sharing the Walmart deal. The best deals I’ve found are all on this page Check out this Idea List on Amazon: HUTCHES/CAGES by Bobby Jimenez a.co/59Q9wd4

Thanks for watching. I'm glad you like it.

Have you tried googling new zealand rabbit breeders but using googlemaps instead of google search?

sometimes this kicks out a different result

That’s a good question. I couldn’t tell you without doing the math: Start with the length of the roll you buy(the more you buy the more you save…) and divide by the amounts below… 30” x 30” cages would take -150” of 1”x2” cage wire for the top & sides -30” Best of luck with your build!

I clean the manure when collecting and I compost what falls through my cage wire here’s a video showing you how I do it kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o-CXltp1nd6mc6s.html

That's good advice thanks for sharing!

It may be a browser issue. No problem at all. I'm glad you found the products regardless of rewards. Thanks for watching and best of luck with your project.

Depends on how big your cages will be. I’d just add the Front and sides of your cage take the total and divide by the length provided in the roll and that will tell you how many cages you can make. I’d start by Just building a few cages and going from there

No. I don't. I put my bucks on one side of the rabbitry and my does on the other. This is a quick fix to spraying/marking .

I use all these 5" putty knife, steel brush, Lysol spray, Torch floor power wash hutch once a year

In most cases I can’t find 14 gauge half inch by 1 inch

Lizz Bd weird. Sorry about that maybe try this one I used my cell phone to link it. www.amazon.com/shop/therabbitrycenter

I've experienced that as well. Unless they're put in a colony setting at a young age they most definitely battle for dominance.

The thickness of the wire (or lack there of)is problem it’s around 22 gauge versus the 16 gauge and the 1 inch by half inch allows the manure to fall through easier

@@TheRabbitryCenter sorry I don't really understand the terms. What is the difference between 16 and 22 gauge? Is it the size of the holes or the thickness of the wire as well? Just so I know what to look for.

@@janinedear-barlow I apologize for that the lower the gauge the thicker the wire. 1 gauge being the thickest Hardware cloth is a thinner gauge wire (19 gauge at best) but it's pretty supportive and would most likely be just fine. But it's not ideal because once your rabbit gets bigger their manure gets bigger and doesn't always want to fall through the cage bottom. That's why 1"x 1/2" is better. I recommend 16-14G cage floor bottom.

@@TheRabbitryCenter Ah right, I understand now. Thanks!

30” x 30”x 18”

Be sure to look up the Agouti gene. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mLuCZ5B21LeogKc.html

Thank you for watching and sharing your advice!

Thank you for sharing

Thanks for sharing if snakes are an issue where you live I'd entertain wrapping with hardware cloth