For me, the ideas in kzfaq.infoUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.

Thanx for putting this video on, by the power of KZfaq an curiosity I've stumbled across it and went out and tried it with some pallet wood :-) and succeeded. Just a small two meter high hut. I'll be upscaling soon for a greenhouse.

What a pleasant chap you are and thanks for the lesson!

I gave you a thumbs up because of your honesty in the struggle to make these crazy things! I found your attitude to be refreshing and inspiring! I’ve been thinking of building one of these after giving up on building a geodesic dome. After watching videos, I’ve decided to use long 1X4 without knots so it will be stronger. I’ll have to see how long they are. The struggle is the fun part of learning.

Interesting illuminating and humorous. Very entertaining, people like entertaining. Thx man

thoroughly enjoying these! I'll be waiting for the part 3!

Excellent video Zach. I really appreciate your honesty. Has helped a bunch in my own process.

Hahaha, lesson learned. Thanks for leaving the video experience as is. Happy holidays.

I love this series of videos. Thank you for leaving in the mistakes and bloopers. It is entertaining and informative at the same time. The comments here are also good for more ideas. These videos give me hope that I can build an old fashioned Gothic Barn someday. Bless your heart

Dude your a frikken nut!! ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT! Best regards and thank you so much for both the hints and the laughs! Peace

I DID enjoy it! It is enormously useful, and I love learning from somebody else's mistakes instead of finding out myself! I would have turned the air blue when it fell, LOL, good no sound! Thank you, thank you!

Good project! I think plywood has half the plies placed perpendicular to the direction of bend which is not great. I'd definitely use furring strips with the wood fiber going along the bend. Also agree on preference of a lap joint with glue and screws.

Thanks for sharing your process and lessons learned. This is gold.

This is a great reference now that I am actually starting my project.

Great video! As I watched this I thought something like this could be made quickly in emergency or disaster situations! Very cool design!

*Zack of all trades, Master of none! especially building arches for a building !*

I've been know to involve myself in a little jack-assery from time to time. Welcome to the club!

After building a plywood sail boat, I would recommend making a scarf joint between the two pieces of plywood. The old boat builders standard is a 1x12 (for every one inch of wood depth the length is 12 inches). I did my joint with a jig and a router, using epoxy with a layer of fiberglass on each side. I know, over kill for a shed. But if this were a living space, I want all the strength I can get. I may tackle something like this, if I can get my HOA to "buy off" on it.

Thank you for posting this. Gives me some great ideas. All the best to you.

Great Job Zack! Keep up the Hand Work, as in Life not all is Perfect. GOD Speed.

Zack, great build. many wonderful ideas; plus, of course, pitfalls to avoid. rgrds, walt

Zack, your attitude is amazing; positive, open to learning and brave enuf to be kind to naysayers. "Tips" and info from people in-the-trade, so to speak, can - as evidenced by many of your posters...be shared in a professional and respectful manner. That said - thank you so much for your time and efforts for sharing with us all. Nice job. Keep that great smile!

very good video i enjoyed the commentary and the observations you had from what you learned.

Liking your honesty and approach 👍

Great documentary! When using scavenger-type (full-thread) screws to assemble wooden frames, always pre-drill the top piece so the screw threads slip through it. That way the two pieces of wood are pulled tightly together. Unless you do this, the wood stays loosely connected and it loses the rigidity you need when framing. The other option is to use a screw that has a smooth shank below the head, like a deck screw.

Awesome video,.... portrays jobs/the day as it actually unfolds.... I can relate to the self-inflicted do-overs/duhs,

Ok I'm hooked. Now I have to keep watching. 🙄🤗

Good luck on the build!

Great teacher and personality. Subbed

Very informative and entertaining :-) Thanks for the video.

Thanks for the video and the idea. Don't let the trolls mess with you. You're doing great.

This was sadly hilarious, cause it reminded me of me. Keep rollin

Zack it would be wonderful to have someone available to teach us all this stuff but most of us don't so I appreciate your videos. Most people make mistakes I know I've made plenty on my projects but each time you make a mistake you know you won't do it twice. Not bragging here, but I've managed to go from slinging a paint brush to building my own home from the ground up. And even with all my experience I am still learning new and better ways to do things and visit KZfaq regularly to steal good ideas.

Gained 1000 subscribers each video over your last three lol that's amazing. I would gusset both sides. Impressively simple but strong design

Just a thought! why not use multiple 1/4 inch plywood and sandwich and glue them together so the joint is spread out more and you end up with a curved board before you join top to bottom

Just found your channel and subscribed..👍🏻 Really enjoy the content

I really like this guy and I also like a guy who is not afraid to admit mistakes. He will end up with a good job and this video should help the inexperienced a lot because the short cuts will be know whether they would work or not. Shortcuts rarely do.

Never underestimate the value of a wide open workspace, and always remember you NEED that for many projects that seem so easy on video.

Making the gussets longer/larger and the brace for raising is toenailed first, along with stakes as cleats. It's advisable to use a second man but you're good enough...so we expect you to suck it up. Good vids, bro. Good job.

you are a funny bugger. good job . love the presentation. cheers from australia

Nice work!

Thanks for showing the screw ups. Most people edit them out so they look better. I need to know what can go wrong so I can avoid it. I figure things out that way. So glad you are posting this as it.

Good job. If yor not learnin' yor just sittin still. KZfaq is fine but you learn by doin. As always I appreciate yor time and effort.

Now you motivate me even more...

Thanks for sharing life with enthusiasm

I built my last shed for the price of the screws and my time. Pallets, 9’x9’x 9’ it’s been through 2 Alaskan winters both with 4’ of snow that I never shoveled off.

Just an idea... Before you put your first board in the corner, screw the first two blocks on it. (The spacer blocks at 18"). Then you won't have to worry about getting the driver in the corner. Just imho . Blessings ~

Nice I'm a fan. Lead by example.

If you live where it snows, I would suggest avoiding plywood with voids for the same reason it broke. The voids will always be a weak point, along with the joints, in your structure.

I have been think of building something like this useing 1/2" PVC pipe for a green house with same size pipe in between with a 1/2 dowel glue in the short pipe sections holding it together with wood screws going through the long pipes into the wood dowel

now that it has been thru a couple winters how is she holding up? sorry if you have answered in another video this is my 1st time watching this series thanks from Sean in Athens ,Vermont

Simpler solution using engineering 101 principles ( and save yourself some $$: Use 3/8 or 1/2 plywood for easier bending & less breakage. (I build wooden experimental aircraft). Then, to compensate for the thinner wall strength increase the depth of the inter-supports using 2x6 instead of 2x4. 2x8 even better. Double the depth of any beam (using same thickness materials) and you increase strength by four times. And the stiffness by 8 times. cutting those inter-web supports shorter and using more of them helps to disperse the wind loads moire evenly as well. As you get closer to the ground, they need to be closer spaced to handle the heavier loads there. Another tip: on the bendiest section of the catherdral arch, the midddle...have a single piece of ply. No joints. That's the weakest part of the structure. Also, some Titebond 2 or 3 owuld be a huge, inexpensive upgrade to the joint strength, in addition to the screws. Less $$, lighter, and easier to handle...same or greater strength. Also, the more plies in the sheet, the better.

I love that you have some help!....LOL

I can't wait for the next video. I engineer some of my own creations with some of the same results.

Question: i still want straight walls because we are planning to build a studio; can these arches be placed atop a rectangular wall base? Can we make it more like a barn but without such a tall ceiling?? I don’t want a 20ft ceiling on my 15ft wide structure.

Also soak the planks in water and a pva glue mix and they bend easier and will last a lot longer

I'm made arches with 2x12. Cut a big "C" out of one side from end to end, then gluing and screwing that "C" to the back side.

Did you screw or glue and screw that joint on you rafter pieces?

It seems like it would be a good thing if you could have finger- jointed and glued your 2 arch pieces??

a suggestion: after your boards are ready to be formed try soaking them in water and they should bend easier and safer.

Hi Zack. I may have done it differently, but you DID it. You get credit. Nice production, and I appreciate the "what I did right and what I did wrong" at the end. What part of the country?

I used chearer 3/8 plywood I also used different plans from a university co=op I also ripped my own 1x2s from 2x4s on one of those small craftsman table saws. I used 4 1x8 boards as base and car rails. for the cap I cut 2 of the 1x8s edges at 30 degrees. I set 4x4s in the ground to mount the base rails to. Made temp jigs to hold the cap up, then put in the inside part of the arch. next I added the 1x2s lengthwise about 2 feet apart. Then added the outer plywood strips to the arch. Its a 12x7 building it took 2 people 2 days to build and its lasted 14 years as a chicken coop.

I think i might be using screws designed to withstand sheer stresses. Also an overlap of at least 12” screwed at both sides would avoid breakage. 3/4” dense ply without gaps costs only $2 bucks more....I recently put a subfloor on and found it at a big box store (starts with ‘L’ and rhymes with ‘Bows’) and found the marine ply for $3 LESS than the junk board.

Good to be productive!

Re: wireless lav mike, Thank you for using ! so many others don't and their audio Stinks !

Very nice. subbed. Think possible to build these so they can achieve R-30 insulation using rockwool. R-30 rockwool is like 7.5 inches thick. Think possible to pass Florida primary residential dwelling building codes with this style construction? I have a an 80x100 residential lot in a rural area with sparse modest houses about mile away. My central Florida (zone 2) lot faces a preserve so no front neighbors. I talked to the county who said no issue with aesthetics or interior open concept. No issues with not having widows on the sides.. but only an engineer can say if it will meet structural, wind and energy codes. Talked to a few local engineers and general contractors and nobody is interested in this unorthodox idea - seems too many unknowns or too small of a job. I have a small test I did on my channel.

Might be a minor thing but I would have just used a butt block at the strip joints. In fact, I think you could use a full width spacer block as a butt block and kill two birds with one stone. No lap joint to get in the way when sheathing.

Claim the things you want by feeling and believing they are yours.

Do you have a list of materials that you used to build this?

glue always helps the screws be stronger

"Angle of the dangle"Funny, don't hear that one much these days.

adding more blocks would not prevent the plywood from the break, cause the breaks occured before you reach the bend radius.

I'd have rotated the first piece of OSB a quarter turn, since you didn't need 8' of width there. And because I'm a geek. lol

Sometimes it's better to lucky than good!

I'm guessing that where the boards that are breaking is near the joint? This will a weak point, as a full-lap joint has virtually no strength. A better joint would be a half-lap joint (the ply is probably too thin to use a Bridle joint, or you don't have the appropriate tools) that is *glued* and screwed. The longer the half laps, the better. Additionally you could put a short piece of 1/8th/3mm bracing ply over each side of the joint (also glued). This will distribute the load better than just a 3*4 inch full lap.

My long lost American cousin. Were from the same cloth. More action less thinking! 👍👍👍

How long are the two pieces of 1x4 before they are bent into the arches?

Yip...Dewalt doesn't get points for being quiet. Albeit it's just a drill. Thanks for the Vid...I may do a greenhouse built....need to think of snow load though....or ability to "shed" ROTFLMFAO

I would use solid wood too but then you might get breaks on the knots. CDX plywood isn't made for that application. I just wouldn't construct the whole thing like that.

Sorry, what caind of wood? Tank’s from Italy

always use MDO, or strapping

Wow, positive suggestions and woho turd comments how dangerous this is etc... when you do it and learn and share your lesions we all understand why. But the obvious "Professional" or as I like to say "Expert" (ex-spert) fail to recognize.. this is to build a really cheap building... Ok that said, check on costs but sometimes you can get thin board, paneling etc on sale and then you can cut the strips and glue them together in the jig,,, will be super strong and not need to be as thick plus keep its shape too even without the blocks .. removes tension. and of course paint every surface .. really thick like a glue covering... but what do I know I'm not an "ex-spert" ... past tense spert... .. Great to see people Doing!!!!

I plan to build this. I will soak the wood in water first as I know it would bend easier than dry.

I would have used wood glue too while you're doing it.

I would not use plywood strips for the arches. First, they are too weak , and they do not have the same properties as natural wood when bent. The arches must have strength which is created by its material and by its being bent. Make a jig on a wooden frame. More guide blocks is better to help slowly bend the wood strapping into place and to ensure a uniform shape to the arch. The arches can take a variety of bends, which is really ugly. When you double the length, overlap it more and place your center blocks at those joints and add an extra block where you see a straining area. (Extra blocks can bother you later, but not much.) Another reason NOT to use plywood is that if you cover the shed with a plastic, water can sweat and condense in the shed, which makes the plywood vulnerable to moisture. You want to watch that even with wood strapping.

You're ZacK? I'm Zac.

I like your mistakes 5 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟 🌟"s

i would have started my spacer blocks at the joint and ran a carriage bolt through it all.

"The angle of the dangle." ( is proportional to the heat of the meat )

Lo mejor estuvo al final valió la pena escuchar tantas palabras 👎🏇🏇

So are those neighbors thrilled with a family living next door in a shed...or have you specified that yet...? 😂

You could probably do this for much cheaper (not to mention faster and easier) using repurposed 70's/80's mobile home roof "trusses" - which are available in most parts of the country for pennies on the dollar. But I admire your stick-to-it-ness and your willing-to-learn-itude.. lol

Great video my friend. Ignore all the Detractors and Health and Safety Nuts you listen to them and you never get anything done or it cost you 3 x the price. Half the Fun of Destroy it Yourself ( DIY ) is the F**k Ups and the Swearing Afterwards. Old true Saying " The person who has never dropped a Bollock or got Hurt has never done Anything"

Wouldn't it be stronger if he glue laminated these?

just put a 6" clamp on it before taking it out of the corner.

good idea, however you should use better plywood and most importantly, you should stagger your joints. the way you have it now will fail.. IMO.

Sound volume suss. Especially if using a phone since your speaking away from the camera

Or... save all the work, and make those arches out of pipe, even pvc

I'm not being a smart ass,you need a man lift or am an on stilts for the ridge runner. Just saying lol. I really like the idea

Buy cheap, you get cheap.