The less work you are capable of doing yourself, the more cautious you should be when buying a vintage bike. Also, if you have to use the services of a shop, be advised that many shops want nothing to do with vintage bikes, or selling any parts for them. Find a vintage bike friendly shop before you go shopping. I went in a shop to buy some pads for my vintage Campy brakes, the guy very rudely informed me that they were obsolete and were not available. I went home and found reproductions online, and from that point on I pretty much avoided any of them. I had worked in a shop back in the 70s and do 99% of my own work so I can avoid the bike shop problem. I like to buy ones that need some repairs or cleaning for below market price.

Here are a few more tips - especially if it's a "fixer-upper" that you are planning to ride rather than display. Chromed Steel wheel rims - avoid, or plan the $ /£/$ to replace. Wheel size: anything other than 700c can be a PITA to replace. 27" is OK but can have implications for brake choice if you change to 700c The old "English" sizes: 26"x1-1/4" is a different diameter from 26" x 1-3/8" and both are different dia /incompatible with 26" MTB. Understand the different types of brakes and their relative performance: Entry level single pivot and "center-pull" don't really give adequate performance by today's standards Cantilever brakes can give good performance but are a PITA to set up. Dual-pivots with vintage "nut-fitting" (as opposed to hex socket nuts) are available in different drops up to 73mm maximum and are a worthwhile upgrade. Does frame have a derailleur hanger at all? Older bikes with derailleur on a hook that goes over the axle are OK with a 5 speed freewheel, or downtube (DT) levers with a friction (un-indexed) mode but move around too much for indexing systems with more cogs. Look at how the DT shifters are attached to the frame. Are they band-on? Adapters to fit cable stops (necessary if you are planning to change to bar end or brifters) are now very difficult to find. Braze-on fittings (little internally threaded studs on side of downtube) - adapters still available, so much simpler to change to brifters. If you are planning to convert to SS/Fixed then cleaner look can be obtained on frame without the braze-on studs and even without the derailleur hanger. Frame material. Steel can (usually) be cold-set to resize the rear axle spacing. Many vintage bikes are 126mm and be reset to accommodate modern 130mm or 135mm hubs, or even 120mm for track hubs. Do not try this with aluminum or any other frame material. As well as cracks in paint around seatpost bolt (6:00 in video) look at the slot in the frame above the bolt. The top part of the slot should have parallel sides. If not, the frame has been squeezed around a seatpost of the wrong (too small) diameter. Take a digital caliper with you. If the seatpost is correct size, movable in frame, and is 27.2mm then chances are it is quite good quality.

Thanks for the beautiful eye candy. I haven’t seen any of those classic bikes for many years but none of them matches the beauty of my 1987 DeRosa which I still ride every day. Working on your own bike may eventually become a lost art as technology becomes more complex. Classic bikes were simple to understand. Like a Volkswagen Beetle.

Building your bike from the frame up is not just fun, and it is, it is how to get EXACTLY what you want. You can refer to these videos if you're in a spot. Easy peezy. Then you ride with pride. My latest opaque blue 1972 #826frame is now complete. Everything is redone. Total price $562. The Schwinn Super Sports have hand brazed chrome moly. And yes a gooseneck stuck in the steering tube is the biggest pain.

I’ve got a collection of roughly 15 vintage road bikes. I bought a lot of them online. I have some really good deals and some not so good ones. I usually find a problem or two after I’ve received the bike and thoroughly looked it over, but not always. I have absolutely no regrets, I love vintage road bikes. These tips will be helpful. Thanks for posting this video.

Quite the collection. I always love to see vintage bicycles, like what was available in my younger days. Steel frame, threaded fork, lugs, downtube shifters, straight block freewheel...

Thanks. Good info. Beautiful collection!!!!

Classic bikes are so beautiful! I’d buy one if I could!

Good video. These are good tips for buying any used bike these days.

Very well done John probably your best yet keep it up!

Thanks for the help. I will ues it on my next biuld.

Good tips I tend to over tighten everything and I'm going to check the true on the back wheel on my vintage bike that gets to be 40 years this spring that I've had it and it probably sat around in the warehouse a couple before that but it has a huret derailleur.. the rear Lug is different and I don't think you can substitute nuvo record for it... Campo is a lot easier to find

Great time learning from your video fantastic work thanks so much!

Those are some great looking bikes you have there. Thanks for the informative video.

Just got myself a Ventura 1984 thanks for the tips!!

Omg that is my dream garage. True Nirvana! Your collection looks so impressive!

Awesome vintage bicycle, reminds me of the bicycles used in the 1980s when I raced in Prospect Park with the Kissena cycling club. I really miss those days.

Thanks for your tips! One more from me - check if crank ends have same distance to chainstays on both sides. And both pedals are perpendikular to axis going through front and rear wheels.

Thanks for the tips!

These are some great tips. I ended with a really mint 1984 Bianchi that ended up being an impulse buy that I found at a garage sale last summer. The frame is way too big for me, but the bike was just too nice to pass up.

Im restoring a vintage Motobecane Grand Sprint and this video is perfect for letting me know what I have to fix before I list it.

Thank you very much for the valuable information. Congratulations from Brazil!

I picked up a Schwinn super le tour and I love it , it's super light weight quick nimble

Good info here! Not a shopper atm but I do have an 82 Raleigh SBDU that I've been tinkering with for a while now and every extra bit helps.

Great, very useful. Thanks a lot!

Great video. Loads of good tips. Love the last comment too ! George U.K.

Im a young lad but I like vintage bicycles. It’s like they have a soul. And it gives you a glimpse of the past. My friends usually tease me of being a grandpa for liking very old bicycles.

Great last word of advice..... Best regards.....Rudy Please share more of your vintage collection...... thank you 🚴‍♂️🚴‍♀️

I scored a vintage Tommasini Super Prestige. I thought the drivetrain was rusted shut and was expecting to begin to replace the Dura-Ace bits, but I hit with some WD40 and broke it free. Then I hit it with some citrus degreaser and it came to life shifting quieter and smoother than my new Dura-Ace 9100 & 105! I had a Cheshire Cat grin on my face after that. It's just amazing how older stuff just holds up better. I can't believe that a modern groupset with all it's carbon & plastic parts would hold up to being encrusted in rust without suffering permanent damage.

I ride my Fuji road bike year round to work, through snow, salt, and lots of rain. I definitely abuse her, but she's 40 years old soon and works just fine. She's definitely not a pageant queen though.

A few months ago I saw a Panasonic DX-2000 for $150 at the thrift store -the only reason I didn't buy it was the frame was waaaaay too large for me 😅 I hadn't even considered most of what was discussed here! Hopefully it found a forever home =)

Hello John I like the fact you point out the quality and condition of bikes review and to know what to looks for and what to buy good quality Road Bike Thank You., Please keep me up to date in near in the near future and please note if can with better audio quality very loud quality recording , Thank You again.....

Thanks for good frameset damage inspections, and other advice! Another thing myself ALWAYS check is wear on drive train(chain elongation a good CLUE though not the final say) While it CAN be replaced, cost consideration can be HIGH, especially if maintaining a quality standard. Bottom Bracket/ Hubs as/more important than rims, and in opinion of a rebuilder/rider the second most important thing to healthy structure.INspection for looseness takes 5 seconds, for tightness takes about 30+seconds/wheel. MOst new wheels are tight, most meddled with and incorrectly locked in hubs become loose, though some tight. In addition to Johns things to bring, bring a section of NEW CHAIN, to test excessive wear without much intrustion. Use the tape to measure the chain under tension. Park makes a $9 tool that does this easily and quickly.] summary 1. Frameset Structure 2.Adjustments(hubs/bb/headset), 3. Wear-component damage

You have excellent taste in both bicycles and cars -- couldn't help but notice your Audi TTs in the background 🙂

That’s a lot of nice bikes that should be on the market and then on the road.

super usefull!

Great Info

I traded a lawn vac and a lawn mower for an early '60s 26-inch 3-speed Hawthorn girls' bike. It has the same tire size as my 76 Schwinn World Sport. The tires were rotted but originally like most girls' bikes, it wasn't worn out. I got a cruiser banana seat and a new sissy bar, new petals and I swapped out the crank for I'm a small person, 26 inches is the biggest bike I can ride. It's getting a dark pink with white and gold leaf pinstripes, I would also like to touch it up with a 46-tooth chrome heart sprocket. I'll ride it around until some lady falls in love with it and robs me.

Very good

Just brought a 86 motioncraft, it rides great

Vintage bikes are engineering works of art.

Good advice. I got "tubalured" recently, lol. Got new wheels/tires right away.

Thanks for posting this video John, I’m certain to use these tips when looking over a potential purchase, the frame alignment checks are a must ! The Schwinn Superior is quite a unique color, would you happen to know what Schwinn called that color ?

Good info on checks. Your wood straight edge could be warped, as wood warps easily, so lay on flat floor both ways to insure its straight. Bottom Bracket is another area that can seize up due to corrosion. Sometimes rust can be seen from the underside or at the sides.

NIce collection

I've had a lot of luck finding nice bikes at pawn shops and Goodwill. You just have to keep your eyes open and be on good terms with the staff at said locations so you know what's coming available and when.

On my vintage Ross I have a crack in the Campy hub where the bearing cup is pressed in. It's been cracked a long time, but it could just be waiting for the right time to separate. Short answer: inspect the hubs and axles. New complete wheels aren't cheap.

Buying bikes that you rarely ride, that's a "sport" for a people who have excess of money aka rich people! Judging by that red Audi in the video, I'm right all the way! Nice collection of bicycles, anyway! Greetings from Croatia 😊

oh my goodness! that schwinn weaties bike!!! oh my!!!!!!!

I wish I still had my 1977 Ferdi Kessels road race frame #32 it was a 56 cm. I would love to find another one

Thank you

In the bike shop we used string instead of the wooden straightedge.

Good Black look tops

Put the front brake on and rock it back and forward to see if the headset is loose or that the cups are loose in the headtube. It may have the wrong size headset fitted, or one that is undersized.

Nice job! I always try to ride the bike if possible. A "no hands" test will tell you about alignment issues. If you find yourself leaning one way or the other just to go straight, you need to investigate further as to what's up. Rear wheel just installed incorrectly? Something bent or just a dented headset that makes it hard to do straight? I'm always extra careful with a bike without openings in the bottom bracket shell...where did the water/condensation go? A rusted out BB is a real deal-breaker for me!

I look for holes drilled in everything, including the chainring, hubs, seat and water bottle.

I can't seem to find one to buy, BECAUSE YOU THEM ALL! 😁

That superior is sweet

Awesome collection! I raced on several of them when i was young-two years ago i was able to buy back my Vitus Carbone 9-it was only ridden by me for about ~1000 km and then stored dry without sunlight. Do you think it will be rideable?! Or does the glue lose it’s strength? The carbon tubes are very thick and i would ride it only on sunny sundays,but will the lugs still hold the tubes after nearly 40 years? It took nearly 2 decades to collect the whole Mavic groupset with that beautiful bottom bracket.......

Wow, I love your Collection of Old School bikes.. I would like the Buy one from you? Give me your most least Favorite? Very profesional. Thanks for the infos.

I'm with you all the way 🙂. Have worked on "retrobikes" when they were new - since 1984. I'm just wondering about your beautiful collection - do you drive them ?

Lots of bikes I see on the web you would be buying them sight unseen and that's why I haven't bought a vintage bike.. my other two bikes that are getting old enough where they're going to be vintage too 😄

Check that the pedals aren't seized in the cranks. It's a biggie if you need to swap out the pedals.

How about a 3" drop test. I can tell if hubs, bb or headset is loose. Should be a clean thud sound no rattles or clanging sound which could indicate a cracked frame.

Anyone interested in the Canberra Australia frame builder Keith Davis. I have a Keith Davis 708 Reynolds, Pegasus components and in great condition. I love it, these frames just propel along. Im wanting to know if others appreciate the Keith Davis bikes.

Hi I bought an old apply bike everything if working great.I was just wondering if you would clear coat a bike to help preserve finish

1. close the front brake and rock the bike back and forth to check for a loose headset. (though that can be adjusted easily and is not a flaw) 2. though more important, swing the bars L&R and feel for for brinnelled or pitted. a bad one will feel "indexed". it will kind of clunk into a position headset. that means either a replacement headset or repacking with loose balls (if a bad headset has caged bearings, loose balls will often follow a different track and so avoid the pits).. 3. do the labels even match the frame? (I've still got a "Gios Torino" frame wiht a 68mm BSA BB shell. And I highly doubt Gios ever used anything but 70mm Italian BB shells) check the pantograph cutouts (remember lots of makers used the Club motif so associated with Colnago). Do the decals lineup and look neatly installed? Are they vinyl stickers (which will feel raised and are cheaper and likely aftermarket) or are they water decals under the original clearcoat (original) 4.; does the fork match the main frame? the front and rear dropouts should be the same make. a replacement fork is ALWAYS suspect and likely an indication of a front end crash, even if there is not evidence on the frame itself. 5. this from another bike enrhusiast who saw the video: "I neglected to check the water bottle braze ons once. The broken bolt was really tough to get out. Probably could have bargained the seller down another hundred bucks for that…" I'lll add that a seized bolt and completely strip the nut from the frame and then you need a replacement rivnut. which is a real hassle. 6. another tip from another collector: "Run your fingernail under the downtube (to check for bulges or crash damage). It allows a higher level of discernment than your finger." 7. measure the frame yourself. even some experienced bike collectors and sellers do not know how to measure a frame correctly (or make mistakes) and might well list a 56cm frame as a "58cm". Of course you first have to know what frame size you are after and suits you. You have have these figures memorized or in your back pocket. there is really no need to test ride a bike if you know your metrics. Correct frame size is basically driven by PBH (Pubic Bone Height).and has little to do with physical height ("i.e. how tall you are) www.tocycles.com/what-frame-size.html

I bought a Bob Jackson after watching this video.

A vintage 1985 raleigh portage was actually gifted to me but it has cruiser bars, it's the america version, I'm not sure which bars are correct for it. This bike is a weekly 6 mile rider. Any advice, websites are vague.

problem with vintage road bikes is there are no size small classic frames available .. i would have loved to restore one and install modern components on it😢

Hey bro! How are you! I like that bike and I want to buy! I'm from Morocco 🇲🇦.

Came for the bike content...is that a Rubystar tt-rs?!?

I have 4 vintage Schwinns. A 1974 Continental. And 1972 Super Sports. My Faves. These videos can lead you through a do it yourself rebuild. Get a good frame and headset first. Start building.

Hi John! I was wondering if you can help Guide me in making sure I get the correct size frame vintage road bike? New 2022 geo I ride a 56 cm but I don’t know if that applies to 70s-80s

Your prejudice against sew up tubular tires is surprising, given the considerable extent of your bike knowledge. Sew ups are not lousy tires, nor are they a poor choice. They are much faster and lighter than clinchers, and at 150psi provide Ferrari like handling. I've restored perhaps 80 bikes, and yes, only one, a race Guerciotti, has clinchers. But I cherish and enjoy it FOR WHAT IT IS immensely. Sew ups are still in use today by pro racers, and I'll bet some of your high end bikes actually came with sew ups, until the previous owner swapped to clinchers for ease of tire repair and perhaps durability. Of course, modern tubulars and greatly improved over 1960's kit. You don't have to glue them anymore, use two sided tape.

If I buy a bike (48/49) and immediately replace the stem (80mm) to make it shorter, should I actually be looking for a smaller frame? I find a lot of 49s have longer stems, that otherwise seem perfect. What is the typical stem length on a bike that size?

Do you prefer decals be clear coated or on top of clear coat?

Hello, I have a vintage Guerciotti that I have had displayed for over 30 years. I believe it to be identical to the one in this video. We are currently preparing to move across the country and I am considering to list it for sale. Could you recommend a company that I should list with and possibly an estimated value. I hate to part with it but with the move and being 68 now I believe it could be someone else art piece to enjoy. Any help is appreciated. Nick

Are you collecting them to look at or do you actually ride them?

This bike was really easy to assemble kzfaq.infoUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.

Nick all back

I would add that 7 speeds + frames can accommodate even a 12s Campagnolo, but up to six speeds frame were less wide at the back.

Any bike w/ram handle bars is vintage that’s what I ride

Is a1968 all pro k mart 10 speed worth anything it's all blue

Wanting to buy a Frejus Italian bicycle, but these purchases requiring shipping, so it would be hit and miss. Would you buy a bicycle through a photo?

Hi I need your/ someone's help. Is a 1999 Trek 7500 multitrek in good condition for $150 a good deal!? If not what would be? They guy who is selling restores many bikes.

7:44 who can see the mistake in bike setup at this instant of the film?

Buenas tardes, tengo una bicicleta FUJI SAGRES antigua creo que es año 1985 en excelentes condiciones nunca reconstruida, que precio puede tener?

First thing to look for is price

I like tubs

John Is impossible to look for everything you recommend and find a bike in great condition. Because you have them all 😂🤣😂

What is considered a vintage bike? Tia

what about money budget ... idea is to take a barn find and restore with min budget there is the smart way ... not to give money on expensive NOS bikes

Buying an 'valuable ornament', a picture looks better on a wall.

Sell one of those to me sir...

Do you sell any of your bikes? If not do you know who would sell a mint condition vintage bicycle?

most vintage bikes 70-80is will be mostly in bad shape , use and abuse by a teenager and abandon on shed or garage for years , most old wheels are prety bad , and well restore bike can be very expensive , finding a good contrition vintage bike is rare

Step 1. Become rich. 😀

I must object to your claim that a slightly bent rear derailer is a valid reason to not purchase a beautiful classic bike. Why? Because with the aid of simple screw driver that slightly askew derailer can be....adjusted! Are you spreading disinformation so as to have people pass on great bikes so you can pick them up and add them to your harem of vintage bikes? Confess John!

who cares? you dont RIDE anyway