A great video sure to be helpful to many. I would add a few 105 points; Rocker panels-especially if water traveled down from the window-and if the car had been on salty ice or a muddy environment. 105s have a 3 part rocker. I bought a $20 boroscope on Amazon that plugs into my iPhone and takes video clips. Repair is within the scope of an ambitious DIYer but it gets $$$ if a resto shop does it. Much hours needed to do it right GTV rear windows-in addition to the rear C, the flat surface on the side of the window-at least on my project car. Also, lower doors and behind the front wheels (fender) and in front of the rear wheel (1/4 panel). Window rubber if cracked will allow water to collect in the bottom of the doors-look up under the doors for rust-the weep holes get plugged. Front cowl fascia below the front windshield and also behind the rear window on the deck before the trunk Lastly-in the USA, back in the day, Alfas shared the road with lumbering giant station wagons and sedans with drum brakes and consequently, they were hit in the rear in traffic due to their superior brakes. Repair shops often slapped on a replacement rear and 1/4 panel section and wondered why the panel gaps were lousy. As a unibody, the rear trunk/boot floor acted as a crumple zone. There are two channel braces that the floor is welded to. The channel braces are often crooked by the impact and the panels alignment is adversely affected.

Thanks for the great video. I really enjoyed your "For the Road" Videos as well as all your content. However I think it would be a real treat if you would do a driving video without any of the music and just letting those of us who don't get a chance to experience these cars in person hear and see you driving one. Although we can't get the smells and whole experience it is the next best thing. Just a thought. Thanks again.

Just found you and have to admit I like your style! No music, no jokes, just excellent videos. I’m new to KZfaq and have a channel to fix up old Mercedes, but quite opposite in my approach. I use music, humor, and sound effects. Guess it’s true... opposites attract! Lol

Good one Jethro! Not to wordy and to the point! I guess a lot of people jump into this stuff blindly. But like yourself, a spanking shiny paint job covers a lot of sins. In any case, it’s always good to bring a small pocket magnet along to run along the panels of any car of interest. Also beware of something looks too nicely sorted out as well. This Industry has changed so much, and is pockmarks with shysters at every turn!

Prices are crazy right now, it’s going be while until I own my dream 105. Until then I’ll just watch your videos 👍

I share your thoughts on the body being the part that matters most. On the other hand: touch-up paint jobs can be managed by many paint shops today and that makes it a bit easier to also restore the body in a step-by-step way. Too late for this one of your GTVs though. 😥

Great video mate. Definitely could have used this before I bought my car.

Very comprehensive thanks Jethro

Hi Jethro! A video about the Burman Steering Box details would be fantástic!! Cheers!!

Thank you for the great video! I looked at several as potential projects about 10 years ago. All were very rusty and beyond my capabilities at the time. The Pacific Northwest of the US was not kind to the old Alfa's. I went back several months ago to check and see if any were still available, and the few remaining were now barely "parts car" status at best. Look forward to seeing your progress. Cheers!

These cars are popular and going for top dollar . The body clues are all accurate but really the 105s rust just about everytime in those spots mentioned ,almost no exceptions , and you don't really need to inspect them because unless it has been completely rebuilt it's going to have these rust points. Regardless , you will still have to pay decent dollars because if you don't someone else will. The bottom line is , you buy these if you are completely fixated on owning one and want the massive hours and money on restoration. Money that you are unlikely to ever get back unless they keep pushing through the ceiling . Buy it for love of the 105 ..

Love a 105 project or just any Alfa tinkering - great work J

Hi Jethro, I've just finished a 3 day binge of all your videos! The way you share your technical knowledge is fantastic and showing the "warts and all" side of restoration is refreshing to see. I'm not subscribed and look forward to seeing what comes next!

Jethro.....good hearing from you, I was concerned you were having some problems. At any rate please keep in mind that these cars are on the wanted list all over. Unfortunately you were taken advantage of for monetary reasons. Having said that, you are in possession of a rear car. Please keep in mind that the road in life have these missteps and now we have to make the best of it. No dought you have work cutout for you, and we wish you well. Since you have put a lot of miles on this 105, memories a long. Hold your head up, and pull out the wrenches and let's build a bad ass Alfa.

Look forward to seeing you restore it one day!

Another thing- if you can't see any of the damage that Jethro brings up, if you can drive the car- you may notice stuff. Obviously if the car does not track straight, or crabs down the road (if you can get someone to follow you while you drive it)- those are indications that the car isn't straight. But these cars are actually pretty stiff when they are good. If a GTV feels floppy, something is wrong. The car does not need a roll cage to feel stiff and solid. Spot welds will lose strength over time, for sure- just that even that kind of degradation should still be a pretty stiff car, pretty straight and true. The other thing to look at for an odd problem on the 105/115 coupes is a small bend at the top of the wheel well- this will be an indication that the rear of the car bottomed out going over a bump- and the whole trunk has bent the rear of the car down. This is a lot more common on lowered cars, worse on cars that have lots of rebound damping- which will help keep the rear down as you go over a series of bumps. The cause is that the inner and outer rear fenders are all that holds up the trunk. I've been told it can be fixed- and I sure hope so, as I see evidence of that after racing my car for 15 seasons on my car.

Anther great post - thank you Jethro!! I have been really really lucky as my recent purchase, a US Version 1750 Osso di Seppia/roundtail, was purchased as a project car at a project car price. After a complete strip down I was pleasantly surprised to find there was no accident damage but she did need new floors which I already new. Based in Rome I am also fortunate to have access to many good Alfa artisans. I totally agree the biggest cost is restoring rust and accident damage which is extremely time consuming and can cost a small fortune in parts. Hope to see your beautiful 105s back on the road to recovery soon. PS LOVE THE WHITE S1 SPIDER YOU'RE WORKING ON!!!

Good to see you also have a a Honda C50 or C70! If you understand these engines, you can understand a Nord engine as well. Thanks for your efforts in making these videos. Greetings from a Dutch Giulia and 75 ts driver.

Trev from Trev's blog here on utube is restoring one of these at his work, check out his channel he's a bodywork genius,

This car ticks all the boxes for me: good looks, wonderful aftermarket support, lightweight, RWD. It's just unfortunate that they are getting so expensive.

Well said Jethro the areas you covered are just what we all fear.. My 68 step front Veloce is not quite as bad as some and I agree the inner front guards are most important that they are right.. The battery side is the focal point on every Alfa . Trev has just made a vid on this section and remade it as a single piece and seamlessly welded it in. This makes total sense as it cannot leak now and allow more water with acid to seep through the joints as there are no joints any more and the battery tray covers the flat top section anyway. One thing I would of done is to put the battery tray on 4 little pedestals to allow air flow. Chances are the next battery will be a mock L/A any how and contain Lithium Iron. It's possible as m/c batteries are already available this way... As for all those little dents and holes and baby rust out bits . There is the real work. I think I would buy a 6 gauge oxy/ace tip and use .8 mig wire to act as a filler rod. Unless you are a Tig welding expert and do it every day like Trev on his CA Coffee Van then the results will be slow and tedious.. At least with O/A gas the surrounding metal stays malleable and you can flatten the small weld ribs to flat and loose them in the grey epoxy primer with ease. Gas is great for these, but the tip size is critical as heat is your enemy on flat panel sections . I'll send a foto of my sections I'm making up of the inner guard battery box support and you'll see how I did it...

Great tips, I would add asking for photos if someone is looking to buy a restored car. The term 'restored' is used loosely at times, good restorations are usually tracked with photos and Invoices

A lot of work Jethro. I`m glad if it goes on and everything works :)

Great channel Jethro! Appreciate the professional production quality! Regarding this video, I am a fellow South African... I bought a '72 2000 GTV two months ago from a reputable vintage dealer for a large sum of money. I do have experience in what to look for, and I thought the car was in reasonable condition. But after stripping, - damn! I have been fooled. This car has had a really bad rear collision, as well as some very bad structural rust, that have all been hidden very well, even to a trained eye... It seems that people trading these cars are becoming far more clever in hiding the usual things to look for. Anyone buying a South African "Bargain" please proceed with caution. Thanks again for your channel... keep up the good work

Recently come across your videos Jethro. Good honest approach and straight forward presentation make them very watchable. BTW notice the white Fulvia lurking in some shots, what's the story with that one?

Thanks a lot!

my dads 1300 gt jr step nose was a full restoration ground up think it toom 10 years just to make it as oem as possible car is solid now and only problem is now to afraid to drive it lol

Hi @Jethro Bronner are the gtv chasis and body panels all the same for the various sizes of engines (1350-2000)? Are juniors just smaller engines or is it also a smaller overall car. Thanks for the vids🍻

A great way to start such a project is to call me and offer me lots of cash for my 105 Scalino 😜

Hi Jethro, I just bought a GTV 2000 75'. The car is in great condition (stored indoors) but hasn't run in about 25 years. I'm just in the process of getting new filters/fluids/battery etc. before turning the engine and giving it a go. Anything specific to alfas that you would recommend me to check? I'm familiar with the mechanics but somewhat new to alfa. I was thinking I should take the spark plugs out and drop some oil in the rings before trying to turn the engine. Should I replace fuel lines? Fuel tank? Break lines?. I'm also reading about the Spica system as it might need some work too. Anyways, great channel. Thanks for your help.

Good evening, Jethro. Very nice video’s, indeed. I’ve owned a ‘68 Gt 1300 Junior some 10 years ago. My brother had a ‘71 Giulia 1300 and my father still has his Spider 2000 Veloce. It runs the family. 🍀virus, you know. What i really want to know is where did you get the black t-shirt with old orange logo. Really stylish. I want one or two, three... Greetings from Belgium. Keep up the good work!

Btw. Now i have a 75 TS and a 33 1.5 I.E.

Do you have a rough estimate on a budget costs plan for your GTV, new panels, drive train, suspension, interior?

Anyone with a single piece rear bumper for a sprint gt

May I ask, where to get that T shirt you're wearing at the end?

Surely it's got its claws into your soul by now!!!

What happened to the Alfa spider project? Is it done?

When you go to look at restored or project cars take a fridge magnet, the black rubber type. They will stick to good metal but not if there is areas of filler., run it over all the usual suspect areas. Plenty of shiny looking bog monsters out there, don't get caught out.

I’m writing a paper about the logistics of driving through Europe. Is there any chance I could interview you?

Why can’t my other half be like Jethro.

Yeah, it's a project. But as they say, the way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time.

Just FYI that’s the wrong dashboard for a Giulia Sprint GT.