Thanks for watching, exactly

@@thepowerhousegarage5457can you do this with a camshaft sensor

Im glad it helped you, thanks for watching

Thanks for watching, only if your running a oem ecu

Thanks for watching, at the beginning i said the same thing until i reclamped the wires

Did you get it to work ?

@@freshdc yes I had to strip the wires twist them together and solder them. The splice connectors did not break the insulation.

@@thepowerhousegarage5457 I got it to work with solder so thanks.

Im glad it helped

Thanks for watching, no issues

Thanks for watching, only did that so the car can pass emissions, you can use your ek harness and run a p28 ecu so it can run better or s300

@@thepowerhousegarage5457 what else did u have to do to get rid of cel. Trying to pass emissions, I already did solenoid but i wanna know what other codes I’ll have to do?

Thanks for watching, and i tricked the computer into thinking theres a crank position sensor since its a jdm motor and jdm motors dont have cp sensor, thats only to pass emissions but if going to out a chip computer or hondata car wont pass emissions test regardless

@@thepowerhousegarage5457 Oh I dont live in Cali so I dont need to worry about emissions lol, I just dont understand what you did to the wires by "putting them together", could you please explain that step more in detail?

All i did was bypass the check engine so the crank position sensor wont come up on the dash

@@thereisnoturningback I get what you’re trying to ask. So what he did was use a splice clip that cuts into two wires. That is allowing signal from one wire to pass to the other. You need to use the splice connectors you can’t just cut the wires

​​@@jessy2904correct, he has two choices to cut the wires that end up at the crank position sensor..or leave it un plugged or cut the plug off so the cyp sensor signal isnt arking or sending signal to a dead sensor that is still spinning

having this exact issue. did you ever attempt this and what was your result?

For you two guys yes doing all this at the ecu plug was going to fix that issue.but you do need to cut the wires at the ecu so you can pretend like its not there no more

Yes as well

Thanks for watching, might be your actual crank sensor that you need to replace and its right by your crank pulley

Do this trick because the motor it self is a obd1 ..but looks like based on your comment your car itself is still obd2 so yes do this trick so you can fool that obd2 ecu into thinking its getting external crank sensor when you already have one inside the dizzy (cyp)

Jackspania aka ebay harness, ebay harnesses and rywire all have the intensions that their customers as the market wants will be using a obd1 ecu which is the only tunable ecu for all motor or boost..and the obd1 ecu doesnt look for that sensor because its inside the distributor (cyp).honda got fancy once they went obd2b with the ckf (external sensor) on top of the cyp sensor the obd2 dizzy also has

Which is why obd2 is ecu that you cant do nothing with but to use it get your car running stock

Thanks for watching, b series dont use cam sensors like k series so probably is your crank position sensor

You just going to have to bypass it

Thank you ! 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼

Thanks for watching, its different motor and ecu. Might be different color wires on your harness

Ok thanks, could you tell me or send video for an 01 HONDA CIVIC 1.7 VTEC, AUTOMATIC. OR MAYBE THE SITE WHERE I CAN FIND OUT. I HAVE A Cranks Over BUT NO START. CHECKED ALL FUSES UNDER HOOD. PUT IN WHOLE NEW FUEL PUMP WASN'T WORKING WITH ALL THE PLASTIC AND WIRES. BUT I MIGHT KNOW WHAT IS WRONG, COULD IT BE I ONLY HAVE A VALET KEY. IT UNLOCK DOORS AND TURNS OVER BUT WILL NOT OPEN TRUNK W/ 🔑 . HAS T5 ON 🔑. I FOUND A AUTO. PUSH BUTTON LOCK UNLOCK PANIC BUTTONS AND I DON'T KNOW KNOW IF IT WORKS PUT IN NEW BATTERY INSIDE BUT AUTO PANIC DON'T WORK. IM THINKING CHECK SPARK ON PLUGS THEN CHANGE OUT RELAYS BEHIND GLOVE COMPart. . THEN CAMSHAFT SENSOR AND CRANKSHAFT

Going to neighbor to borrow a scanner I hope and pray

I also had 2 close wires on tranny and the people who rebuilt just switched. My fault and I claim it.

Either you leave it unplugged and throw the sensor away or leave all there and plugged and at the ecu you cut the wires that end up going to the sensor..

Thanks for watching and if you have a jdm motor yes

You do it before the ecu jumper harness .so you leave the ecu jumper harness alone and the ecu alone.is your plug that you modify just like in video

Thanks for watching, probably didnt crimp the wires good happened to me

Thanks for watching, the d16y8 has a crank position sensor no need for this the jdm b20 doesnt so is a automatic check engine. Your sensor might be bad

Thanks for watching, yes it does

Its all about the ecu Boss, Jdm d15b is a obd1 engine that in japan does not come with that external crank sensor because in america and japan its inside the distributor Now when people are keeping the obd2 cars original and throwing in a jdm d15b then yes this is when you need to fool the obd2 ecu into bypassing the ckf and just running it with cyp sensor (cylinder position sensor)

Thanks for watching, i have no clue i tried googling it and some ppl say fuel related going to have to take it to a shop

Fuel Main Relay?

I had the same thing going on with my 98 Accord. I changed the main pgm/fi relay the ignition switch to no effect. One day I was working on it and after it died I heard a squeeling sound coming from the distributer cap. i hit the cap with mt infra red thermometer and it was very hot. bought a new coil and the problem was gone.

@@stevencradduck4872 I don't think tl has distributor