Thanks! You too!

Hi, no, if it's calibrated you don't need to do anything different when you use special mounting collets or pin plates. But remember whatever goes on the balancer shaft gets balanced with the tire, so you don't want to use any damaged cones or pin plate adapters. And also, don't ever use a damaged hub nut, meaning one side broke off, the tire will definitely be out of balance. Thanks for the comment!

Yes, the tire needs to be balanced to zeroes first before you can use it for calibration. Put your balanced wheel on the balancer, enter the dimensions, make sure you come up with zeroes on both sides, turn your wheel to a top dead center where there are no weights on the front or on the back. Then, turn machine off and back on again, don't rotate wheel, go right to calibration. And you'll be able to put your blue weight on where there is no weight.

Most likely you need to replace the arm potentiometers (pots). How you check your voltage is push and hold the shift button while pushing the number 3, those will be your voltages and your right and left weight displace and those should be between the 0.38 and 0.65. And they should be constant; if they are rolling or changing value that's a definite sign that the pots need replaced. Now pull the arm out as far as the face plate is and hold it steady and see if they're changing value while they're out. If they do, then you need a service call. You can call Hennessy directly and they'll schedule you a service tech. Also, if the at home rest voltages aren't withing the range, you would need a service tech to come out and adjust those for you. Hope that helps!

That’s a little hard to tell without looking at it or getting more information. If your tire and wheel is zeroes before your calibration than it should be zeroes after the calibration.

Thanks for the reply, yes stay tuned I'll try to a video soon.

@@mr.tirechanger Any vids coming from my last comment? Love the channel

Hello. Sounds like it's not communicating between processors. You could check in the back of the machine there's a red cover, on the cover look through the hole and see if the light solid or blinking. If it's blinking then there's no communication between the processor and the inverter. That could be due to a bad wire or wire partially unplugged. First place I would check is under the hood mount, there's a computer, those plugs sometimes in shipping get pulled out accidently. Make sure those plugs are plugged in and also to the monitor at the top. Then reboot the machine, make sure it runs and then check if that light is staying on solid. If not, there could be a bad connection between processor and inverter, in which case you could removed the covers if you'd like and check to make sure the wires are all connected under there - being careful not to get shocked. If none of that works, you'll need to call Coats and have a service tech look at the machine.

Ok I'll check it out today thank you so much!!!!!

Hello. It sounds like when you are moving your weight from the front of your wheel to the back of your wheel, you may be off a little bit on the location. Also, this could be caused by bad piezo sensors, but if you're able to complete the calibration and it seems to go to zeroes after the first spin most times then you should be good.

Yes, we'll post a video as soon as we can. If you subscribe to our channel you should get a notification when the video is uploaded. Thanks!

Not necessarily... it is the same but there are a couple different steps with the 1500 you don't do with the 1400. We'll do a 1500 calibration video, if you subscribe to our channel you'll get a notification when the video is posted. Thanks!

Sounds good! I’ll be waiting for the video thank you!

Ok, before you can calibrate the balancer, you have to have it balanced to zeros. In other words, your wheel has to be balanced to zeros before you can calibrate.