+pavel1809 Thanks for watching!

You're welcome. Thanks for watching!

Hello Kingsley, Yes it's the same Piyke lol. A few questions to help: 1. What car is this? 2. What are the FT values? 3. Any CEL? If so codes? Since you are in Nigeria... 4. Is the thermostat for the cooling system still in the vehicle? 5. Are the cooling fans wired directly Answer's to these questions will help in generating potential leads

Hello Milan, This should be located in the EVAP canister. Its the black box you will see when you look at the left underside of the vehicle beside the gas tank. Hope it helps. Do check Google for images of the actual part.

Positive it sits on the EVAP canister. See link below, it's part number 7. Also know as vent pressure sensor www.hondapartscheap.com/oem-parts/honda-sensor-vent-pressure-37940sdaa01?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsLWV4aGF1c3QtaGVhdGVyLWZ1ZWwmcz1jYW5pc3RlciZsPTI0Jm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9aG9uZGEmbz1hY2NvcmQtc2VkYW4meT0yMDAzJnQ9bHgmZT01LXNwZWVkLWF1dG9tYXRpYw%3D%3D

Hello! Thanks for the compliment. Does the chugging start at a particular RPM? About 3000RPM? Is your check engine light on?

The check engine light has started coming on recently Not a set RPM I dont think, but I havent really tracked that too closely

I suggest having the car scanned. The code(s) will give a good idea of the problem. Have a scanner (even the very basic ones will help)?

@@DIYAutoworksNG yeah I think I'll have to grab one, thankyou for the help 😊

Don't mention. The issue with the car is definitely something that is offsetting the air-fuel ratios (could be one in a long list, including low fuel pressure) but the scan will set you in the right direction. Happy to help when you get the results. Cheers!

Hi Mickk, Optimizing fuel trims can be a challenging fit. Lol. I remember my experience wanting to bring mine sub -5%! 10% either way is generally acceptable, although 5% is ideal. Do you have a CEL on? Are there any codes you are dealing with at the moment? I am not exactly certain of the correct fuel pressures for your vehicle, but 54psi at idle sounds about right since our engines are similar (might need to find actual values for your model). If you have no codes, the general causes of running rich include: leaky fuel injectors, bad fuel pressure regulator, clogged air cleaner element, clogged cat or exhaust restrictions, bad O2 sensors. It seems you have ruled out some of these with the replacements/tune-ups above. NB: clogged air cleaner element and leaky injectors may not give any code on this generation of Honda's. Let me know how it goes!

I also have the same negative fuel trims but mine are negative 12 both short and long term. New upstream sensor and I still can't figure this out. Also no codes but do smell very rich exhaust and have a little bit of sluggish acceleration. Any updates with your car? I'm going to try adjusting the valves.

Hi. The regulator is in the fuel pump assembly (within the tank). Access is through the trunk.

Hey, thanks for reaching out. Great to see your Accord at 300k plus mileage! When was the last time you changed the air cleaner element aka engine air filter?

@@DIYAutoworksNG I have a k&n filter I actually cleaned it yesterday plan to take the egr valve off an clean it aswell, I'll know something once I put her back on the road Thursday traveling home!

Great. Do let me know how it goes. Was the filter looking really dirty? If it was a long time (excess of 15k miles or less if you drive in dusty environments) you may want to change all the same. However, let's see how it goes on Thursday!

@@DIYAutoworksNG it's probably been about 8k miles since last cleaned it, it was pretty dirty though! Will keep u posted thanks for the reply back

👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

You may have a problem with the EVAP system. The purge valve might be stuck open. That said, there is no reason why you should unscrew the cap for the gas tank while the car is running! Before you start changing anything, I recommend scanning the car to prevent throwing parts at it.

@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you for the reply, I scanned it and it gave a p0496 Evap system high purge flow. Do you have an idea on the possible cost implication to fix it.

This is pointing to your EVAP system, there are several components within the EVAP that could cause this. My money is on the purge valve but the vent valve or even the fuel tank pressure sensor could be the culprit. First check that these connections to these components are tight. Depending on your capacity, you may need a technician to help with the technicalities. A scanner that can do an EVAP leak test would be good to have. The EVAP canister is the black box in front of the fuel tank. Good luck.

Hi Naz, Thanks for watching the video. MPG loss can be quite challenging to nail. I will suggest you look at fuel trim numbers to start with. Remember to check the fuel trims at idle, 1500rpm and around 3k rpm. On the brake binding, did you identify the actual cause? You note that you changed brakes (I assume pads), what of caliper sliding pins and piston? these are usually culprits for binding brakes. You mentioned revving to 6k rpm, doing this frequently will actually shorten engine life. MPG loss also happens with age. Did you change driving style? On spark plugs, a tan colour indicates good combustion (I couldn't paint a picture of what pale crusty stands for). All said, I will really start with looking at fuel trims to have a sense of what next. Best of luck with troubleshooting.

Sorry i should have been more clear, I checked all the brakes for binding (which there was none) but for good measure changed them including greasing the pins and sliders. Fuel trims wise i measured at idle and 2.5k, at idle it fluctuates slightly strange but anything above that is got a smooth transition between .1 and .9 volts.I even ran the engine in open loop for a while and the difference was less than 5% mpg wise. Driving style has been consistent over the last 4 years same car as well as maintenance and i adjusted for rising fuel cost with every fill up. (i know i need to get a life haha) The mpg drop was instant. One day it just dropped. Tried different fuel stations no luck. In regards to the plug....erm its a tough to describe but it looks healthy. I'll change them soon anyways. Ill hook the scanner up again to check the fuel trims, then move up to test the fuel pressure for a leak (post pump) and finally a compression test. after all that i'm all out of ideas. Sorry for the long winded messages

Got it now. Sounds like a good plan.

How tight do you put on the gas cap

Hey mas doe, Until it clicks into place then I keep turning it until the text on the cap is straight, Carried out a compression test and the reading was consistent through the cylinders wet and dry. Reading was a bit low but i put it down to a cheap gauge. (plus inexperience) Still awaiting a fuel pressure tester. I am investigating the spark plugs atm. There does seem to be some abnormal deposits on the ground strap as well as a dark fuel ring. Its really hard to describe the color and texture.

Responded on the other thread.

Take off the fuel pump relay, start the car and idle until it dies. It should do this in under a minute.

@@DIYAutoworksNG awesome! Thank you 👍🏼

Thanks! The fuel pump for this accord is in the tank and pressure will be the same irrespective of where it is checked. Cheers.

Nice TY

I've never done this or heard of it.

The fuel pressure regulator is found in the fuel pump assembly in the tank

@@DIYAutoworksNG Our 2005 CRV with the 2.4 I-4 has a what looks like a FPR on the end of the fuel rail where the hose that you removed is at. It looks just like the FPRs on other fuel injected cars but half of it is plastic, the end going to the hose while the end that is tighted to the rail is metal with a nut flange

Affirmative. The FPR is on the fuel rail for the 2005 CRV.

On this model, no.

You definitely have an issue in cylinder 4 from the history you described. It could also be that the injector number 4 is faulty. I will recommend you scan the vehicle to get a better sense of the culprit here.

@@DIYAutoworksNG I have scanned the many times it only come up with O2 sensor and cooling system sensors which i already changed, also this morning i swap the injection number 4 to 6 but still the cylinder number 4 is still having that problem. It drives smooth on highway but when i stops it vibrate badly.

Do you have a check engine light on?

@@DIYAutoworksNG yes

I advice you scan again and get the exact codes the vehicle is throwing. It will really help you narrow down and prevent throwing parts at the vehicle.

I believe you may have leaky injectors. The pressure shouldn't drop suddenly

These are not injectors, because i checked for leaks) Suspicion that flows somewhere in the fuel filter. But I agree with you)

It could also be the fuel pressure regulator or the check valve in the fuel pump itself.

The reason for taking out the relay and starting the car initially, is to relieve the high pressure in the fuel rail. If do not do this, when you try fitting the fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail, petrol will spray everywhere under pressure.

You are welcome +Erik D

Hi Manny, I won't say pretty much the same but the principle is the same. It's to get the line going to the fuel rail. Bear in mind that there are 2 banks so get it before it splits to the 2 banks.

Piyke DIYAutoWorksNG ok cool ! Thank you! Thanks for the fast reply 👍🏻

Fuel feed hose. P/N is 16721-RAA-A01 for the 4cyl 2003 - 2007

Will be on the lookout for a V6...

@@DIYAutoworksNG please help me out. My car is 2007 Accord v6. It has two main problems. 1. It has a delayed and rough 1 to 2 shift especially when cold. Tends to be smoother when warmed up 2. It has loss of power when in motion. When in motion and I push hard on the throttle to accelerate hard, maybe to overtake, it is reluctant to respond. Even at pedal to metal, it takes a few seconds of no response and then it downshifts very hard. You can imagine how dangerous this could be on the highway. Please advise me.

Have you scanned the car? This would be my line of recommended line of action, to read what's stored in the computer modules. The delayed shift when cold may indicate transmission wear.

@@DIYAutoworksNG Scanned severally. No codes. No check engine light.

Should be quite similar since they are the same K24A engine.

Thanks. 🤛🏼

Hello, I'm guessing you mean where I got the fuel pressure kit. Got it from Amazon. See link www.amazon.com/Oanon-Tu-114-Pressure-Injection-Tester/dp/B06Y1PHWXB/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_yo_pop_d_pd_t2 I didn't replace any fuel lines. Yes. There's no schrader valve!

Piyke DIYAutoWorksNG thanks! Sorry, I thought that you took off the original line and placed one on that included a valve. I'll check out the kit. Appreciate the response.

For this engine, you'll have to do same to check fuel pressure.

I know, right.

Apologies for not showing that bit. They usually have 2 tabs on either side that you depress while pulling the other end. They can be difficult to pull out though, but will come off surely if those tabs are properly depressed.

@@DIYAutoworksNG I have found that it is easier if you push the two connections together first, then depress both tabs, then pull apart.

Cool. Thanks for sharing.