It's absurd, the cars nowadays don't have critical check measures which cause problems to become catastrophic which would have been detected and dealt with sooner. Most of the time you don't get fuel pressure gauge or even a shraeder valve, an oil pressure gauge, transmission dipstick, and other bull the manufacturers and dealers pull.

@@gottahavegoalsset Whatever sells. Like 10,000 mile oil life or lifetime transmission fluid. Vehicle owners want minimal maintenance, so manufacturers stretch the service intervals. But most of the sensors are related to emissions control so the EPA police are content. They couldn't care less if your tranny fluid is burnt, or your brake fluid is contaminated.

I agree. Anything for them to save money

You mean SHOT!

waterboarded with gas

Amen

Joe Biden did it

Thank you sir

So meaning in the data logging ? On my tuner I should be able to check the pressure? Cool but damn just spent 23$ on a fuel pressure tester

Obd2 acan tool im using doesn't report this. What tool are you using or does it depend on the actual car model having his data out to the scan tool,

i would not rely on scanner data, the best data is the hard mechanical data you're getting by doing a physical pressure test

I guess if don't know what you're looking for you can do that... when troubleshooting always get a reading from a tool never from a sensor. The sensor can be bad.

*laughs in 1980s*

Thx

Remove the fuel pump relay or fuse, start vehicle and run until it runs out of fuel = 0 pressure.

That was nerve-wracking to watch. Not smart at all.

victormendoza871 there was not. I believe in 2004 they stopped having it. The one in the video was a 2005

You may need to replace the fuel pump

Yes

There should be lines coming to the fuel rail. Look for a connecting point and connect the gauge there.

@@PhillipsVision Thanks. I see a threaded connection near the fuel rail, but perhaps a better option... I see a clip on a connection to a line next to the transmission fluid dipstick tube. I'm not familiar with a connection that looks like that one, but I'm guessing that may be it.

Did you figure out how to do it I'm having the same problem

@@Chris-gz4ie yes, if u want to send me an email address, I'll email u some pictures

@@Z14kt12timandjes1 did you figure out what size the fuel line was was it a 3/8 into the fuel rail

If you do not have a shrader valve, then yes it should. Being your car is from the 90s it should have a valve. Mainly the newer cars don’t have it.

I wish I had seen this...a minute and a half ago!

Newer cars don’t have them, most older ones do

@@PhillipsVision All my cars were from the 90's and NONE had that valve. i know because i do my own work and had to trouble shoot the crank no start many times and i can recall 2 times from 2 cars, it was the fuel pump. But they were both hard lines with no rubber to tie into. Just yesterday my uncle's Hyundai shut down on him while driving and it became a crank no start. As i checked, i had spark, i had crank signal because the rpm was bouncing as it cranked, so i knew it was not that. Next was fuel but again, no schrader valve and no connection like you have in this video, but a hard line from the fuel tank all the way to the fuel rail so i had to disconnect there, as i removed it, fuel pressure released so i knew he had fuel, at that point i was nervous because i had spark and fuel and crank signal ... My gut told me to check the timing belt ... Sure enough, that BAD GUT feeling was right, the timing belt had snapped. I pulled the front side (V6) timing cover off and i could see the cam sprocket BUT NO BELT ... and i could see the belt shavings .... At that point i was like 🤬 So now we are going to have to find him a new "used" car ... This car has 160k miles and worth maybe $1500 and not going to spend $$ to yank the motor and rebuild it.

I don’t see why not, as long as the connection is solid so you’re not leaking pressure

@@PhillipsVision Thanks, I'm new to working on cars. I'm trying not to blow myself up.

Jukka Alve you would have to replace the entire fuel rail since that is where the schrader valve is located

Mr Haych this method is for one fuel pump since only one is supplying the pressure to the rail. Are both pumps running at the same time or can you toggle between them as needed?

Phillips Vision i am unsure, one pump has failed and im unsure how to test them both

Mr Haych if both are still pumping (even though one is weak), combined they may be putting more pressure than is required for your vehicle. You may have to test each individually by connecting in around the fuel sending unit.

I have a quick question, my diesel car ran out of fuel and now isnt stsrting, the code P0087 comes up whiich is low fuel rail pressure. Any idea which pump could have gne bad?

Mr Haych you may have to test both pumps individually

You should have a fuel rail near the engine where your Injectors are. You can also check fuel pressure by connecting a gauge right onto the fuel line

@@PhillipsVision No, there is no fuel rail near the engine. Sorry for my ignorance, but I don't know how I can connect the gage to the fuel line. the gage only connects to one end. I'm not sure how i can do that, but then again, I'm a dummy when it comes to this car. Thanks for the help. The car runs ok but after a driving about 20 km, I stop it, then When I start it back up, the engine light comes on and I get code P0016 and P0089.

@@tonyrealest543 Those codes pertain to timing issues.

Joe Langrehr maybe, but you will have a hard start due to fuel wetting the spark plug

Oh ok thank you cause mine was leaking and wouldn't start and I got new orings that fixed the leak but it still wont start and I'm getting good fuel pressure

Joe Langrehr if you’re getting good pressure you shouldn’t have a leak. A leak would cause low pressure since pressure can’t build in the rail. Is your fuel pump priming?

Oh no yeah there was a on one Injector and it was causing no pressure but then I fixed the leak and now there is pressure but it still ain tdd starting

If you were doing diy lines then I would understand, otherwise I am not sure as I haven't had to deal with that problem yet. The lines can cost a ton of money since they have special fittings and are always under pressure. I remember having one get broken during a repair and it cost around $100 for the one line and there was no true way I could find to fix the broken line. If one of those lines blew I'd definitely be upset.

@@joetaylor1089 will I found the problem it was the cooler in the front bumper it's was new so bypass it see if it didn't blow any more lines so I have to get a New one manufacture defect ..

No, you need a fuel pressure gauge

@@PhillipsVision thank you

Flooding is usually caused by a bad fuel/air ratio...not enough air. Try pushing the gas pedal and holding it down with car off. This will hold the throttle body open and let air in. After about 10 secs try starting the car.

@@PhillipsVision only works for throttle by cable ... which will manually open the throttle plate. Throttle by wire is electronic and will not open the throttle plate even with ignition on

The heat and vibration will probably kill it, imo.

@@bungarraoz254 I decided that as well, I just plugged the T after I tested. I'm only getting 40psi, +/- with both old and new pumps. I have them, but yet to install, plugs and injectors.

@@a.joegevara3519 What is the specified pressure for your model? You sound unhappy with that pressure.

If is wrong pressure, you might want to check the fuel pressure regulator, some are in the fuel tank, others are near the fuel rails.

Could also be a blocked /clogged fuel filter, or an obstruction in the line, such as a kink or crushed fuel line.

You can use it with any vehicle that has a rubber line somewhere on the fuel system. cut the line and then put the gauge in with clamps, then permanently add a piece of metal pipe with a bubble flare on each end once you take the gauge off.