no problems my friend

your very welcome

No worries G Romo

I'll add it to the Q&A video this week! Let me know if there is anything else you need answered ?

I don't have a 100% correct answer, but I generally use the side pod bar as the centre of the engine mount. mostly it is so I have equal adjustment of the chain tension both forwards and backwards. you can control your weight distribution with lead and your seat position.

Thank you!!! Heard that and now you’ve confirmed it.

thanks for watching. 1.0mm is the minimum Sq for ROK GP

Yeah 2.0mm solder is what they use in tech inspection , so best use the same at home

Hi Chris, that sucks man. Yeah here in Australia it is 3.0mm +/- 0.1mm. For any other countries please check your local rules that should look a little something like this www.karting.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Vortex-Mini-Rok-National-Homologation-December-2014.pdf

I like to use the Shell M castor oil. But I think the 747 is great oil too

Hey Doug thanks fir the good vibes! yeah too much advance isn't good, especial double the amount. the thin line is the fire point and you want this to line up with the timing marks on your stator at 3mm before the piston rocks over top dead centre. just ignore the bigger chisel wedge line fore now

Thanks for the reply! You guys rock!

Base gaskets mostly. Otherwise copper head gasket change.

yes, measure above the piston pin.

Hey CNC, 2.7mm for KA3 and 3.1mm for the KA4. Squish we run the same at 1.10mm

I guess it would depend not the track, but 1.6mm -2.0mm max. look for piston crown damage if you advance the timing too far

Sure can although it is almost the identical process for checking a Mini ROK

Hey mate, I would replace them with another unit either brand new or used.

@@PowerRepublic thank you so much for your advise. Love your channel

Hi Andre, I generally don't clean the pistons, only replace them after there service life. to clean the engine, degreaser or brake cleaner work best, normally a little bit of work all the time to avoid the oil burning on the engine

Don't know if the guru agrees here but at times a careful overhaul with a razor blade can do the job on the piston if you're on the track and running tight on time (or just laid down the right amount of hours after a top end job to get it running good). We do that on our mini engines since small kids usually don't carburate on the track and slight build up occurs when jetting isn't optimal.

Hey Michael, sure do, check this out ....... www.sgkarts.com/view-product/TL078/

Power Republic thanks brother. Huge help here!

have you tried IKD? www.internationalkarting.com.au/shop/item/solder-wire-2mm

1.0mm

Christopher Ramnauth great question. Mostly as you lower your squish you raise the compression on these new style engines which you can not modify for technical rules. I have tried a few years ago when the rules were different all sorts of squishes. There are research papers on the net about squish velocities you can search for. Mostly for high performance engines that rev to 15000Rpm or more you want 0.80-1.00mm. If you go too close you crash the piston into the head which is not ideal. Hope that helps

@@PowerRepublic thanks Derek. So for rotax, is this something you can vary as the engine builder to affect performance?

@@IggySport1388 with the Formula Rotax engines, you have to lower the barrel to get the squish down. When you do this the exhaust port duration is shorter (the time the exhaust port is opened to the exhaust pipe by the piston movement). You will have better bottom end power with a low cylinder and better top end power with a higher squish gap, all other things being equal.

Hi Derek, Great videos. From your experience, what’s the ideal ignition timing for both slow tight tracks and a fast flowing one. Thanks.

Hi, what timing do you recommend for ok/okj engines vortex and iame?

1.5mm is safe and 2.0mm is probably the upper limit

@@PowerRepublic advance or retured?

@@nikiforosnikiforou9223 advanced

2.7mm

have you lost the key way ? otherwise you will have to spin up the rotor measure the timing marks. then you can set them with a dial indictor or degree wheel. full mission. get the keyway is my opinion

@@PowerRepublic i’ve not lost the keyway, it just doesn’t have one! There’s no groove for a keyway… its a weird thing for sure. Never seen a crank without a keyway.

most likely 2.5-3.0mm as a guess, we don't have them here

@@PowerRepublic Seems a bit much. That's like 30 degrees on the flywheel. Is this kind of adjustment normal on other engines? These small engines use offset flywheel keys to adjust timing, and they are usually tiny amounts of advancement from a degree standpoint. The only way I could see achieving 2.5-3mm would be to remove the flywheel key altogether and run without it. Any ideas or suggestions?

bp ultimate 98 octane is what we use

@@PowerRepublic thanks for the response! Much appreciated!!

what switch are you using on the battery bracket?

Willy Renella which engine mate?

Power Republic MiniRok, thanks 🙏

Hi Willy. I set them 0.85mm for the Mini Rok. The limit is 0.80mm measurement with 2mm solder.

Hey John, never tried it on a track. 3.0mm is the sweet spot. if you added more for the cadet 9 version it might help, but leave it at 3.0mm and work on your tyre pressures IMO