Very useful video, i recently bought a KZ650 hardtail chopper, it was running terrible, ok'ish when cold but got worse as it heated up, have eventually traced it to tight valve clearances, cant even get a .003 in any, though i can turn the buckets with my fingers.

Having lots of shims (shim kits) and doing this for the 3rd time on kz 750s.....I'm going for at least .005 on intakes and .007 on Exhaust valves. Writing down the new shims installed (for next time.) .008 on exhaust allowed on gpz zx70A1 same engine so if all you have is a .008 you probably can get away with it. Very Nice Video.....thank you.

Overhead cam engines tend to shrink the gaps, so they all need redoing. Thought from your comment you were going to say the head had to come off, so could be worse. Misprint in the Haynes then. That could have serious consequences for someone if they used that info eh! Always having worked on older engines Clive, and remember I've done 100s, I always preferred to use the 8 method (on a 4 cylinder engine) First lobe down set No8 etc as this way you set them on the back of the cam, instead of setting No1 cylinder valves rocking and set No4. So imagine my surprise when I tried to set them this way on a 1986 Fiesta in 1990, and it didn't work. The only sure way is to wind the engine over until the valve is fully open, then wind 360 degrees. Yes it's a lot of winding, but foolproof.

do you have the chain tensioner installed while doing this? my Clymer book told me to take out the chain tensioner to remove the valve cover. but it doesnt say to put it back in for cycling through the cylinders for valve adjusting. i tried to move to the next cylinder and i jumped a tooth and had to redo my timing.