The holes in the back of the 15A residential outlets are not for "backwiring". They are actually *backstab* ports, or push-in connection ports, which are *not the same as backwiring.* The commercial outlet actually has true "backwiring" ports which allow the wire to be inserted into a screw-terminal clamp and clamped down with the screw terminals (they are not a push-in type of connector at all). Backstab (push-in) ports are widely considered to be a potential fire hazard and nobody should ever use them, IMHO (just use the screw terminals instead). Backwire ports, on the other hand, are actually fine and a nice feature, and should be used when available. Please do not confuse the two by calling them the same thing, though.

I agree that the 15 amp spec grade receptacle, tamper resistant where required, is your best choice throughout your home. A 15 amp duplex receptacle is not restricted to a 15 amp circuit and is permitted on a 20 amp circuit with 12 gauge wire and is commonly done. Most homes don't have any 20 amp duplex receptacles and if there are any, it's optional. The 20 amp receptacle is designed to accommodate a 20 amp plug which has the neutral blade in a horizontal orientation. This is extremely rare and when used they're primarily for fixed installations and/or dedicated circuits. Dedicated circuits require a single (one socket) receptacle. 15 amp receptacles are rated for 20 amp pass through and the spec grade version is identical internally to a spec grade 20 amp receptacle.

Great video. Thank you. Went to Lowes to grab a few replacement outlets.... didn't expect to find so many types! Didn't know what I was looking at .

Great video for the DIY homeowner. Thanks

most new homes use 20-amp circuits for outlets, but you don't have to use 20-amp outlets they are a bit heavier duty but really are only necessary if you have some high-power drawing device with a 20-amp plug. as long as there is more than one single outlet on a circuit, they can all be 15-amp receptacles since normally the devices are 13 amps or less that use 15 amp plugs and the 15 amps outlets are rated for 20 amp pass through.

Appreciate all the knowledge. Well spoken. Thanks for sharing! 👍

Best video on KZfaq thanks Sir

Very informative. Thank you.

Good info thanks!!

Thanks for the video. I went tothe store and saw several options ranging from 75 cents each to 7.75 each. They all looked the same to me.

Thank you. Perfect video full o facts!👍👍

Thank you !!!

Great info! Thanks!

Thank you 🙏

thanks

Do you have a video on how to set up Amazon music and set it up on echo dot because I'm having trouble

Unless I happen to already have one, I’d just go with the cheapest outlet allowed. Which for almost all residential settings (except outdoors) is the standard 15A TR. Even on 20A circuits, I’d use a 15A outlet since 20A plugs pretty much don’t exist in the US

Great Video

The 20amp Weather rated outlet you are displaying has a 300 series stainless steel backstrap and internal hardware. It is not 'Plated' steel.

Thanks, gef

What about hospital grade and military grade?

Can you install that WR outlet in a basement

Just fyi: "SPEC GRADE" doesn't mean "commercial". It means the device is built to comply with federal specifications of the GSA. Also: You could add ground isolating receptacles and hospital grade devices. Do yourself a favor and do not use cheap receptacles. They don't last and can be a fire hazard when they wear out.

yes but the commercial grade outlets being bigger may be more difficult to fit into the existing boxes especially if you have solid wire. You may have to change the box , right?

I only use commercial grade outlets and number 12, mc cable. In my opinion, romex should be illegal. I also check NEC code, when in doubt.

​ You see 15a outlets on 20a circuits cause not much stuff is actually 110/120v 20a. air compressors, table saws, space heaters, window ac's are 15a or less and the bigger ones that do need more than 15 amps are 220/240v. in fact i have never personally held or seen a 120v 20a device. the wiring and breakers for outlets are 20 amp but outlets are 15 cause you might have a 12 amp microwave running on 1 15a outlets and a 5a blender on another at same time. On the same outlet at same time you melt the outlet or overtime will. if breaker and wires were 15a you would trip the breaker. if 15a wires and 20a breaker you overheat the wires and melt the insulation and start house on fire. it helps to know what outlets are on what circuit and look at labels of devices to see what the amp rating is and keep it under 20a per 20a circuit at a time. Like wait for the microwave to stop before turning on the toaster oven if on same circuit. now days kitchens typically have a few circuits. 1 for stove, 1 for fridge that's not gfci so the food don't all spoil if a gfci trips and you not home or don't know it. some have a dedicated dishwasher/disposal circuit, some a dedicate microwave and at least 1 maybe 2 countertop and wall circuits. 15a wire and breakers are usually lights only circuits especially with super low amp led lights now. or 15a wire is used from the switch to the light as most switches are fed by the same 20 amp outlet circuit for that room. though i prefer lights to be on lights only circuits so if you need to change an outlet you still have lights and lights don't dim or flicker when the blender starts.

I’m thinking of doing a receptacle update in my house in the near future. It was built in the 90s and as I open outlets I find issues and pretty much everything is back stabbed which I hate and think is unsafe. Plus I’m wanting to upgrade to Decora style outlets. I’d probably go with commercial outlets but I’m on the fence about TR outlets. I’d just think it’s extra complexity and something else to break. I know NEC is moving that way. But I find it unnecessary. Let them little boogers get shocked…they will never try that again. I’m still alive. 🤣

How can one decipher a fake commercial or residential grade socket ?

So does the 'residential' vs 'commercial' grade apply to GFCI's, too, or are all GFCI's basically of the heavier duty grade?

I bought a box of residential garbage grade outlets and switches some break just tightening the screws or first time somebody pulls on a vacuum cleaner cord now I save them in case a hated enemy stops by and needs an outlet LOL. i use the commercial grade for the quality clamp down under the screw back wiring that can hold 4 wires and they don't break when used. the tamper resistant just makes it harder to plug things in for old people and behind furniture at weird angles more government stupidity as always just put then in if you have kids. would be nice if the weather resistant was not tamper proof.

suppp I make music 😊 , I like the video. I was thinkin bout changing it but idk whats best but I got an idea thanksss fr💯💯💯

9:35

I don't see the 20A commercial grade GFCI outlet.

It seems we have at least 1000 KZfaq’s showing us receptacles almost on a daily basis when in fact all receptacles will do the job just fine. Same goes for wire nuts and Wago’s.

Hmm...interesting. I didn't know this info. Thank you! SO out of curiosity, I walked around my house and all outlets are of the 15 A residential variety. BUT THEN I saw one next to my sink that was a 20 A GFCI. SO I went to the breaker box to check and see if that was a legit 20 A circuit. To my surprise every single one of my outlets has a 20 A breaker! Well except the stove, which is 40 A and the Dryer and AC have separate 30 A breakers but everything else is a 20 A circuit with a total supply being 125 A service. I'm thinking this is a really good thing but I honestly don't know. Can I really trust that the wires in the walls are rated for 20 A? I mean my house was built in 1994 and I live in Oklahoma so I don't even know how to check all that.

Hospital grade?

TR = “Totally Ruined” or “Terrible Receptacle”

20 amp outlets have a single tab on one of the slots. What about outlets that has those tabs on both slots? All your garage outlets should be 20 amp and tamper resistant.

bro lost me at saying use 14ga for outlets. maybe if its a single and not duplex and its the only outlet on the circuit.

tamper resistant = hard as fuck to stick a plug into... you thiink theyre broken then you push really hard anad it makes a snapping sound like you broke it and the plug slams in and you pinch your fingers.... god awful things... i took them all out of my new house and had them replaced... i thought they were all broken or defective... i didnt know they were made that way on purpose till i hired an electrician to change them out... hes like yeah those are tamper resistant... hahaha fuck tamper resistant... especially if you have kids and dont want them to hear you swearing... hahha

First

I have an older home(1965ish) some renovations about 30 years ago. All of my outlets are the 15 amp style however almost all of the circuit breakers in my electrical box say 20 on them except for the water heater it says 30 on it. Is this a problem should all my circuit breakers be 15 amps???

Surprised that you left out Hospital Grade.

Put 20 amp commercial grade ones in your own home. You'll never have to change them again.