Thank you!

Exactly what I was going to write!

This is exactly what I needed to see. Thanks for the detailed comment.

I'm glad it worked out, thanks for the followup.

Thanks, and good luck! If it's not an IAC problem, consider also the possibility of a vacuum leak, which can have a similar presentation.

Thanks, man. Nice to meet you. Dave

I"m glad it helped, thanks for the feedback.

Thanks, man!

@

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram I need a part for carburetor sensor,but in my car only shows one hole on the cover,air filter and carburetor.can you show me how to buy that particular part .

Need answers.

What a kind remark. Thanks!

Thanks, man.

Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad it helped. Dirty throttle body or dirty IAC pintle are not the only causes of shaky idle but the fix is easy and free. For others who stop by, also think of vacuum leak and occasionally a stuck open EGR valve. Typically fuel delivery and ignition problems are worse while driving, though not always.

Thanks, brother!

What a kind remark. Thank you.

Thanks, nice to meet you.

Thanks, man!

+Scott Jenkins Thanks, I hope it goes well for you.

I'm glad it helped, thanks for the followup.

Thank you.

Thanks!

Thank you!

+ebrown405 Thanks, man, I'm glad it helped. Actually I am a little surprised since (on this engine) the gasket on the intake side of the throttle butterfly valve is not as critical as other gasket surfaces beyond the valve. No doubt you found the issue. Cheers!

dirtmcgirt01 Thanks, man!

Edson Navarro I'm glad it helped. Thank you for following up with your experience.

Thanks for the followup. Black smoke is not likely from a dirty throttle body. Burning oil would be up there as a cause of black smoke, and poor idle suggests oil being drawn in the intake. This generation of Dodge has a design fault caused by dissimilar metals that make up the intake, and there is a plenum pan repair that has been done to many of these engines. To tell if your engine has had the classical "Hughes plenum pan repair", you could remove the throttle body and put a magnet down the hole. If the pan is magnetic steel, the pan is OEM, if nonmagnetic aluminum, the repair has been done once already. If burning black smoke it might be wise to do a compression test before committing money to a repair, since a bad engine would go against the idea that pan repair is worthwhile. Good luck!

Great, thanks for recording your experience here.

Thank you! 😃

Thanks!

I'm glad it helped, thanks for the feedback.

You're welcome, thanks for the followup.

Thanks!

You're welcome, thanks for the followup.

I'm glad it helped. These are classic trucks, I only wish mine didn't have so much rust on the doors. They don't make vehicles so durable now, few made today would survive for two decades.

It's nice to hear followup with a practical example. thanks.

whats the tps sensor

@@waskilautarod2141 throttle position sensor

That's great, thanks for the followup!

Thanks!

What a kind remark! Thank you.

Well, it is well deserved. I have now looked at dozens of your videos and they are of the highest quality with the best (most useful) information. So, my ''hat is off to you" and thank you!

Yeah, working on this engine can be hard on the back, because you always find yourself leaning over to reach for things that are just out of reach. Tall guys with lanky arms do better, ha ha. I wish I had a topside creeper to allow me to do that more comfortably, but those creepers are too big to commit space in my little garage. The great thing about this engine is the extra room inside the engine compartment. For example when I do the water pump I can take the rad right out and stand inside to bring the engine closer. Right now the big problem with this vehicle is rust, I've got big holes in the bottom of each door.

If I do it ten times in a row I get pretty good at it, but after a few months it's like starting all over again. It would help to be tall with a long reach! Thank you for watching, I still have the truck and still do videos occasionally. If you own a similar Ram, there's a Dodge Ram playlist on my channel you might find useful. Dave

Gracias, my friend.

Thank you for the kind words.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll do that.

In relation to wheels and tires for my Dodge 2500 1998, what does it mean when it says, 16x8 wheel, Rim 8x6.5 with a 10mm offset and a 130.00 hub bore?? Please be as detailed and specific as possible. thanks Gen.xsprtsmn

16" overall diameter, 8" width of tire, fits 8" diameter rim, not sure about the others. There is a much more complete description of *tire code* in Wikipedia, which tells you everything you will need to know. To replace tires, I write down the sidewall code and take it to my tire retailer.

Thank you!

+Angel Eder I'm glad it worked out, thanks for the followup.

Qué comentario tan amable. ¡Gracias y feliz año nuevo!

Thank you, I'm glad it helped.

Yes, there is a MAP but no MAF sensor on this engine. Thanks for watching!

so i have a 98 ram 1500 5.2l . It is idleing low at about 500rpm. but it idles steady. the issue is when i apply the lightest amount of pressure to the gas pedal it drastically drops and almost dies. or it does die. it died 3 times yesterday. i got some fuel additive but this weekend plan to do exactly as this video

so i have a 98 ram 1500 5.2l . It is idleing low at about 500rpm. but it idles steady. the issue is when i apply the lightest amount of pressure to the gas pedal it drastically drops and almost dies. or it does die. it died 3 times yesterday. i got some fuel additive but this weekend plan to do exactly as this video

Dang, I seem to hear about that complaint a lot. Unfortunately many things can cause hesitation when accelerating, so it's not a symptom that points at only one cause. Of course the first thing one thinks of is poor fuel delivery, as when a fuel pump is going bad or the filter is clogged or when fuel is contaminated. It makes sense that an increase in demand might challenge a pump that is barely coping at idle. However a vacuum leak might cause the same issue, or a clogged air filter, or a dirty MAP sensor, or ignition problems such as misfires could cause the same complaint. Even a clogged cat could rarely present in a kind of similar way. It would be very unusual for this to be related to the IAC, because when the throttle butterfly opens, the IAC contribution is negligible. In old carburated engines (not your Ram), hesitation on acceleration was dealt with through design by adding a jet of fuel tied to a sudden opening of the throttle butterfly. In those cars you'd hear a squirt of fuel designed to match the gasp of fresh air. I suppose if such a jet were occluded it would present the same way. If it were my car I'd start by checking codes, inspecting the engine, and I'd look for other clues that might lead to the cause, such as a sucking sound that might be heard with a big vaccum leak. If I didn't find anything I'd check fuel pressure at the rail, look at live fuel trim, and check to see if normal maintenance items are up to date. In my Ram, I had similar issues that resolved when I finally replaced the distributor cap and plugs (overdue maintenance items). Please stop by and let us all know what was found.

Thank you, I'm glad it helped.

With a nonspecific collection of symptoms like that, and no access to a labscope, some mechanics recommend getting caught up on overdue maintenance items first. If you're lucky that will solve the problem without more effort. I don't remember what year Dodge scrapped the distributor, but if your Ram has a distributor, I would start with plugs, air filter, distributor cap and rotor, maybe wires. As you say, a clean of the throttle body would be reasonable and pretty easy. How to do all of that and more can be found in my playlist of Dodge videos. Good luck!

+Tom Sommer By the way my intake manifold is aluminum.

+Tom Sommer Thanks for the followup. I believe the base of the OEM manifold pan is steel, but other engine parts are aluminum. It has been speculated that the difference between the coefficients of expansion between the two metals led to strain on the gasket between the two, resulting in regular failure. Mine is still OEM, but every now and then I consider replacing it.

Hey well thanks again. After watching your video it was like I had done it before when I did mine this morning.

Thanks!