How did it go?

@@jamesbaysinger9780uh oh

Glad it was useful! Please spread the UA - word. Thank you.

Pretend its a life lesson

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

Hey, I was there too in '98. One of a party of 3, we had one make the summit which basically matched the success rate for that year. I and another turned back at about 19,200'.

Go for it!

@@UphillAthlete training for kun in ladakh for now. so next year. fingers crossed it will all be sorted out by then for all of us.

It's not bad without a guide, did West Butt in late May 1993.

Yes it was guided a number of times in the 80’s mostly by Michael Covington…but never with a summit. That’s been done once , but not within the NPS’s legal framework for permitting on Denali

Glad you found value in the talk and thanks for the constructive advice about the audio. Hope you have a great Denali trip, its an amazing mountain and environment.

Thanks! I'll look into a mic.

Rice bags! That works well or dry sacks from sea to summit; traditional contractor bags can work okay but hard to not slice with you shovel when recovering

Ray Genet............The Pirate.

Havent seen anyone using the cave since around 2008/9. There have been a couple of seasons recently where folks built a pretty impressive , well walled campsite at 16K like used to be common in the 80s/90s.

Wait, what anti-ski rant did I go off on? And, yes! that is the role of youth to prove us old-folks wrong!

@@UphillAthlete 🤣ok, I’ve got your attention, so let me use the opportunity to say wow, thank you for such a candid enormocast interview. Very intense but so pure, honest and humble. Just awesome. But yeah you totally used the word rant as you started to describe how you felt about skiing off big mountains, lol. Hello from Homer Alaska and thank you for all you do! 🙏

@@UphillAthlete also I definitely appreciate your common sense ski rant. It’s seldom a good ski etc etc. It’s the same logic I use to rant against fat tire bikes….. It’s just funny how next gen though can take what at first seems illogical and then blows everyone’s minds, haha

@@UphillAthlete private west buttress trip starts this June. We were all taught how to climb in a local rec facility in Homer Alaska by an old guide named Bill McKenna. You may remember him.

@@davidmartindell I remember Bill VERY well. Great guy. We started at guiding at American Alpine Inst. at the same time (1991) and shared some good adventures.

Glad it was helpful!

Yes, fluid ounces of white gas (Usually Coleman brand fuel) which you purchase directly from your air taxi service as they fly the fuel in to basecamp at the beginning of the season. You buy the gas by the gallon, there are 32 fluid ounces in one gallon. One gallon of gas weights approximately 6lbs (plus container weight) -Steve

Excellent question. Since the main difference between climbing Denali and most other peaks is the camping, then I would suggest something else with multi-night winter snow camping. I've seen folks use a trip in the Ruth Gorge, climbing Mt. Dickey by the normal route with 1-2 camps. It used to be people would try the west ridge of Hunter as a Denali shake-out, but then the seracs got too bad and I don't think folks try that route much anymore. Mount Logan is usually climbed in a similar way via the King Trench route, but the distance and weather problems associated with that flight on/off the glacier make that a big gamble. I honestly think if you spend some time educating yourself, talking to others who have been up there, reading some books and stories, that you can practice snow camping just about anywhere. You could make a Denali-simulation-ciimb on Rainier or Baker. Make it more than one night--the more the better really--so you can get rid of all the stuff you don't use. Thanks for the question and good luck with Denali. -Steve House

@@UphillAthlete Awesome! thanks for the reply, maybe we will try a few winter/super early season attempts in the pnw this year and dial-in the snow camping. I love both uphill athlete and training for new alpinism! Looking forward to more youtube and podcasts!

De Havilland

Yes, though climbers don't use that name much anymore.

Rick, that's kind of a niche topic and since I myself haven't climbed the Cassin successfully I think we'll hold off on a full presentation about it. My general recommendation to people is to be cautious using the various 'cut-off' routes to get from the 14 camp to the base of the Cassin. Conditions vary a lot from year to year, sometimes a lot of crevasses, sometimes not many (on the ramp). Visibility can make it really hard, etc. I"ve attempted this a couple times and have always dropped down and around into the NE fork of the Kahiltna. This is not easy (in reality neither option is easy) but in my opinion coming up the NE fork is quite a bit safer than downclimbing the ramp. -Steve House

@@UphillAthlete safer options sounds good to me. Thanks for taking the time to offer advice

hey Rick what time of the year you plan on going? I am thinking about this route as well

@@Leon-qh9br Hi Leon, Covid permitting we’re hoping to travel out to the US late May and on the glacier for the beginning of June. However I reckon Covid may cause an issue with issuing permits for the 2021 season 👎

Some people call it "Big Mac"

I remember some people climbed up the backside and then backdown to ground level. (Wonder Lake side)

@@Harold710 I did the traverse in 1996. It's harder than the west buttress but definitely more of a adventure. Way less people on the Muldrow side.

We offer a huge range of things from FREE (380 free articles), books, training plans, training groups, and coaching. So there is something for everyone.

Actually it is very clean up there. Human waste is collected in "clean mountain cans' by each person and flown off the mountain. And I would say that there is very very little intentional human littering. From time to time someone will leave a camp and a raven will get into a food bag and make a small mess, but that's relatively rare. Overall it's a very pristine wilderness up there.

Hi Steve, We have never had anyone who purchased our 24-week, $99 plan ask for a refund. There are 144 unique workouts in that plan, which breaks out to a cost of 68 cents per workout. Of course you have two cheaper options, you can build your own plan using our book which is available for $24 or you can do accomplish the same for free by using our extensive free online resources and a bit more elbow grease. Hint: Our plans go on sale every year after Thanksgiving.

It's a free market. Less customers paying $100 each works better for their business than more customers paying less. It's a business, not a charity.

Haha how is that overpriced