I just bought a condo built in 1961. It has two prong outlets throughout. I asked an electrician if I needed a complete rewiring to ground the outlets when upgrading to three prong. His answer was no, because in these buildings they used conduit which was grounded back to the main box, and I could just attach a ground wire from each receptacle to that. Thanks to your video, now I can see how that's done. Thank you!
@aeronauta20112 жыл бұрын
DONE THAT!!!
@RonBuning4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the simple and concise way to correct this problem with "vintage" houses from the 1950's. I have watched several video's, and yours just said..."do this" and you will be good! No endless babble and background. No need to make things more complex than they are!!
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
Agreed... If you have armored grounded cabling, the solution is pretty straightforward!
@robertpope97533 жыл бұрын
You can certainly install a 15 amp outlet on a 20amp circuit. You CANNOT install a 20 amp outlet on a 15amp circuit. This guy needs to get his facts straight. I would not trust anything he says.
@glenmartin24374 жыл бұрын
Thank you. This is a good, rather thorough review. The electrical codes vary from state to state, and at different locations within a state. I removed a broken and unsafe duplex receptacle left by the previous owners, then listened to several certified electricians. I could not get a good ground by tying or screwing a ground lead to the box, so I installed a GFCI in the first duplex receptacle of a chain of six receptacles. This on the advice of several electricians. This has served us well for the last three years or more. It is best to get the advice of a good electrician before doing any electrical work, even if you think you know what you are doing. Be safe. Thank you, again.
@shakes13t3 жыл бұрын
So instead of running a ground wire, you just put in a GFCI without a ground? I'm in that situation...
@tanyaortega52913 жыл бұрын
what is considered a good ground
@tanyaortega52913 жыл бұрын
@@shakes13t i didnt see the part in the video that showed the box itself was properly grounded. if it wasnt grounded then that ground wire he installed there is useless
@TomCee532 жыл бұрын
@@tanyaortega5291 He said that it was wired with metal sheathed cable. That may or may not satisfy your inspector.
@tjmone743 жыл бұрын
I remember as a kid my father taught me, white wire goes to silver screws. You can remember because the Lone Ranger's horse was white but his name was silver. So white goes to silver.
@jffydavy55093 жыл бұрын
My house was built in 1958. It had the BX metal cased wire through the whole house. Metal utility boxes were there and they had a threaded hole in them. I used that threaded hole for the ground anchor screw. I changed every plug.
@jonpiotrowski35064 жыл бұрын
Geez Bootstrap....after reading all the crap comments,I’ll bet your sorry you ever posted this...? But this is EXACTLY how I changed my 2’s to 3’s, because I also have armored cable.My house was built in1930’s,and I changed the outlets in the 1980’s...With four teenage daughters back then using hair dryers,boom boxes, and window A/C’s, we’ve never had any problems....keep up the good work....
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
Haha guess that's what you sign up for when you put yourself on the internet. And if your house can withstand four teenagers, then it can withstand anything!
@jklh372 жыл бұрын
Camera work aside (maybe get a small tripod or stand for more steady recording) this has been the most helpful video I found. You instruction on how to create a grounding wire down to the type of screw to use is what I needed. Thank u very much 👍🏾
@JsRazza4 жыл бұрын
Actually, you're allowed by code to use 15amp receptacles on a 20amp branch circuit.
@stevemoening22054 жыл бұрын
James is right
@Alphasig3363 жыл бұрын
James is right and this guy is totally wrong on outlet size. He backwards on that
@louf71783 жыл бұрын
This is true, but the premise is of anticipated loads in the circuit of convenience receptacles. The 20A receptacle for a known specific load like an A/C unit should get the 20A receptacle.
@louf71783 жыл бұрын
@@Alphasig336 He's not backward, but incomplete. 20A receptacles may be excede the current of a 15A circuit, but 20A receptacles cannot used since they signal false capacity.
@njsongwriter3 жыл бұрын
That's what I thought and I'm not even an electrician.
@Sparky-ww5re3 жыл бұрын
Good helpful video. Also good pointing out that the cable MUST have the ground strip integral to the AC cable. My best friend has been an electrician for almost 20 something odd years, and he was telling me a story about a service call involving an old house that had a mixture of knob and tube wiring, and fair amount of the older type of AC cable without the ground strip. The homeowner had installed some 3 slot type receptacles ground to the metal box just like you did. When a certain appliance was plugged in at times the homeowner would feel a tingle while touching the refrigerator, and also smelled burning wood at different times. My friend had found a section of the old AC cable that had rusted in the damp basement and had heated up due to a fault traveling on the armor and was beginning to char the joist where it was stapled to, but the 15 amp glass base fuse never blew.
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
And that's an outstanding point. Even with the right cable type, there's always that risk, so I should probably add a note for people to inspect the condition of the jacket. Even then, a rusted out portion may very well be hiding behind a wall.
@Sparky-ww5re3 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin thats a nice house you got. I love the old pine wood wall paneling. Just curious, roughly what was the year of the build? I noticed in the video there was a more modern circuit breaker panel rather than the old type with the Edison base fuses and cartridge fuses typical of a home with two prong ungrounded receptacles. Or was the breaker box installed later ?
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
@@Sparky-ww5re thank you -- it was built in the early 1960s. The breaker panel seems original to me.
@JonPBixby3 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin If a newer 200A panel has been installed, what is the logic in running new ROMEX on a pair of 15A runs to a circuit that had two rooms on one circuit? The new circuits could allow an Air Conditioner (window unit) on its own circuit, and separated from a portion of the room with computer/electronics/battery backup UPS on its own circuit. I am about to learn how difficult it is to fish wire to wallbox locations that are to be configured to their own circuit breaker in the expanded panel. This new-to-me house was built in upstate NY in 1960 and it has 4 bathrooms - none of which has a wallbox outlet to offer electricity to the room other than a single accessory receptacle found in the end of a fluorescent lamp fixture above the sink basins. Usually circuits that exclusively traced as wall outlets are discriminated from ceiling light circuits. I am not inclined to be adding circuits units to the 200A panel, so I will acknowledge my limitations and hire a licensed electrician. Maybe he will allow me to assist with the mundane wiring of the receptacles in the wallboxes.
@frankpaya6902 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin A glass plug fuse or a circuit breaker isn't an arc fault circuit interrupter.
@naya504 жыл бұрын
Very helpful info. Especially about 12gauge for 20amp and not 15.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
Yes, though it would be overkill unless you want to future/fool proof. 14AWG for 15 amp circuit, 12AWG for 20 amp circuit. Cable length is also a consideration once you exceed 50 feet.
@gregberban92734 жыл бұрын
Is perfectly suitable the part of 15 amp receptacle on the 20amp circuit , The burned up recepticle you had in your hand was due to a loose connection more than likely not an overload.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
Yeah that's probably true
@Ron-no4tp4 жыл бұрын
Not true! You can over amp a 15a receptacle on a 20a circuit since the 20a circuit breaker will not trip until you get over 20amps which is 5 amps more than the 15a receptacle is designed to handle.
@Ron-no4tp4 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin Not true! You can over amp a 15a receptacle on a 20a circuit since the 20a circuit breaker will not trip until you get over 20amps which is 5 amps more than the 15a receptacle is designed to handle.
@lionkingdom7774 жыл бұрын
@@Ron-no4tp You are obviously not an electrician. Greg berban is 100% correct. Unless the outlet is dedicated, it is recommended to use 15 amp outlets. you can upgrade the wire but not downgrade. It's common sense. burned 15 amp outlets are caused by loose wiring. It's not an opinion, it's a fact. All new constructions use 12 Gauge wiring with multiple 15 amp outlets per breaker, except for the dedicated Gfci's. those need to be dedicated 20 amp to avoid tripping and overheating the outlet because some microwaves and portable ovens draw almost 15 amps.
@Ron-no4tp4 жыл бұрын
@@lionkingdom777 I have been an electrician since 1972. Why do you suppose 20a receptacles cost more than 15a? I’ll tell you why. I once loaded up a 15a receptacle on a 20a circuit with Xmas lights to just under where another string would trip the breaker. Guess what? After about 5 hours the 15a receptacle started to melt down and smoke. 15a receptacles aren’t designed to handle more than 1800w for long periods of time. 20a receptacles are designed to handle up to 2400w. The screws were on plenty tight because I was the one that installed the receptacle. I know code will allow 15a receptacles on 20a circuits but I won’t do it. I have also heard that most 15a receptacles are really only rated to handle 12a. At any rate I was considering petitioning the national electric code because it truly is not safe and under the right conditions it WILL cause a fire.
@yoztruli69904 жыл бұрын
An easy fix is to replace it with a GFCI receptacle and put a No Equipment Ground sticker on the cover plate. If you had more 2 prongs on the same circuit then find the home run receptacle, replace it with a GFCI but wire it so all the rest of the receptacles are on the load side of the GFCI. If its residential replace all the receptacles with Tamper Resistant receptacles. Put GFCI Protected & No Equipment Ground stickers on those face plates. This is code compliant but yes it's better to pull a ground wire if possible.
@philadler73993 жыл бұрын
Sure GFCI is great but I want equipment grounding. If I don't have metal cabling I assume I'd need to run all new wires?
@thomasmarable68183 жыл бұрын
@@philadler7399 yes you would
@mikemoyercell3 жыл бұрын
@@philadler7399 unless there is a ground from the wire attached directly to the box. keep the box grounded add the grounding screw to the box and a ground pigtail to the outlet.
@Nicholas_PA9 ай бұрын
@@mikemoyercell just to clarify, if the outlet box is plastic, with no ground wire running from the panel, should you do the following: 1. change the plastic outlet box to a metal one 2. screw a 6” copper ground wire into the metal box 3. purchase and install a gfci with a ground screw, then connect the newly added ground wire to the gfci Is this the safe way to upgrade your ungrounded 2 prong oulet to a grounded for equipment 3 prong gfci?
@RockyLikesPews4 жыл бұрын
15 amp outlets are actually fine in 20 amp circuits. It's actually pretty common, especially in cases where many of the receptacles in the run are expected to be in use at one time as to not trip the breaker.
@notredo4 жыл бұрын
Agreed. I have seen many outlets overheated that were on 15 amp circuits. It is not so mush the amperage being used as it is loose connections. It is not a bad idea to replace outlets and switches that are getting old, or at least go through and tighten the screws down.
@cherrysdiy50054 жыл бұрын
@@notredo Very true.
@okaro6595 Жыл бұрын
The only difference in the outlets is that you cannot plug a 20 A plug in a 15 A outlet. Sometimes the actual outlet is identical i.e. there are 20 A contacts but the face plate is just different. Since 20 A plugs are extremely rare there is no practical difference between them. The 20 A socket does, however, serve as a visual indicator that it is a 20 A circuit.
@1575murray8 ай бұрын
I would not use any of the inexpensive residential 15 amp receptacles wired in series on a 20 amp circuit unless the wires were pig tailed. They are not designed to pass through more than 15 amps. However the commercial grade receptacles and all GFCI receptacles can safely pass 20 amps and can safely be wired in series on a 20 amp circuit. To pigtail or not to pigtail depends on whether you have enough room in the box to fit splices and wire nuts and your own personal preference.
@lauraalbright52154 жыл бұрын
Thank you I enjoyed the video nice to hear someone that can give accurate information so many people making videos don’t know what they’re doing
@louf71783 жыл бұрын
Most electricians are on par, adamantly and for good reason(s).
@frosty91394 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this video. I am currently attempting to purchase a house build in 1920. I need to convert pretty much all of the outlets from two prong to 3 ground. I thought that I would have to rewire the whole house. I definitely had the wrong idea
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
If it's original 1920s wiring then it's likely to be knob and tube wiring which can't be grounded. What kind of wiring does it have?
@frosty91394 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin there is some knob & tube wiring. I am unsure of how much of it is still that way but soem of it is there for sure. there are three floors and a basement and it can be seen in the attic for the third floor. I guess that I will have to knock out some plaster
@surferdude6423 жыл бұрын
The electrical tape around the screws is to prevent shorting to the metal box.
@vancester1st5 жыл бұрын
Aluminum oxide is not flammable. You’re correct that the problem was aluminum oxide but it wasn’t a problem because it was flammable but rather it created resistance. Resistance leads to heat and fire.
@Bootstrappin5 жыл бұрын
Ah yeah, you're right about that.
@KevinCoop14 жыл бұрын
vancester1st How sure that aluminum oxide was the real problem? My understanding is that copper when heated and cooled was the same size. Aluminum on the other hand when heated and under a screw would be smaller or looser when it cooled. Once loose enough, arcing began. It almost always happened at the receptacle in the circuit closest to the panel. Receptacles back then were designed for copper. Now some receptacles are designed for Cu/Al. And can be used on the old aluminum conductors.
@MrAwsomeshot3 жыл бұрын
@@KevinCoop1 the problem is galvanic corrosion. bare aluminum wires against coper receptacles have the potential to corrode that is where the loosening happens. not from heat/cooling expansion.
@KevinCoop13 жыл бұрын
MrAwsomeshot As I believe you are correct, it is most likely both that cause the problem. The receptacles that always did this first were the one closest to the panel and were thru wired. Therefore it had the most amperes on it.
@bleuthaidesigns28873 жыл бұрын
So it’s still a fire hazard and still has to be removed? Glad you made that distinction 🤔
@caricatureparty5 жыл бұрын
I really enjoyed that cat part.
@Bootstrappin5 жыл бұрын
She helps me with all my projects
@itommyboy3 жыл бұрын
Good safe video with proper instructions and advice don't watch the others this is the video you want/need if you are looking to replace your 2 prongers to 3!
@catchercoach49183 жыл бұрын
What if the wires are romex?
@obiwansolo71624 жыл бұрын
Never do anything without the cat space cartel's approval. You asking for serious trouble if you don't.
@robertspeer83404 жыл бұрын
I remember the cable goes black with B, brass, and white goes with silver.
@GlitchedPepsi4 жыл бұрын
15 amp is asking for less then what its getting so its allowed. Only 20 amp on 15 amp circuit is code violation
@UpnorthHere4 жыл бұрын
On a related note, as a counterpoint, an appliance rated and listed for installation on a branch protected by a 15A overcurrent device cannot be legally connected to an outlet on a branch protected with a 20A circuit breaker, in violation of the appliance manufacturer's instructions. I have seen new hard-wired boiler installations red-tagged for that violation. NEC (2017) 110.3(B).
@douglasgreaves1884 жыл бұрын
UK electrician, if the protective device is 20amp everything after should be rated to this or higher. The fuse is the weak link to protect the rest of the system from overload.
@okaro65953 жыл бұрын
@@douglasgreaves188 The difference between 15 A and 20 A receptacles is that the latter allows the use of 20 A devices (the horizontal neutral). You can have 15 A receptacles on a 20 A circuit provided there is at least two (a double one counts as two). You cannot have 20 A receptacles on a 15 A circuit as plugging a 20 A device would overload the circuit. I think equipment with 20 A plugs are rare.
@davekuebler87824 жыл бұрын
Good video, I didn't know about self tapping ground screws now I do, thanks.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
Thank you. In retrospect, I'd exercise caution because they'll leave metal shavings all the same, so it'd be wise to vacuum out the junction box after using them.
@thefreedomvoice86074 жыл бұрын
Dave Kuebler please do not do anything he showed in this video im a real electrician and this is a #1 way to burn down your house if you want to know how to do it the proper way let me know
@summer-west4 жыл бұрын
Listen to @construction guy. He's my brother. You notice the video guy is showing you a workaround to fix a previous workaround that caught on fire inside a wall. Not sure if unsafe is additive or multiplicative but these methods are either unsafe + unsafe or unsafe X unsafe. I'm thinking the former if your own workbench and latter if it's someone else's house.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
@@summer-west sir this is a Wendy's
@HappyDiscoDeath5 жыл бұрын
Subscribing, for the cat. I would die for that cat!
@chrisjamz22064 жыл бұрын
This only works of the box is grounded. In many older homes with a 2 wire system especially knob and tube it is rare to find a grounded box. In my old 1948 house I just ran Gfci s as replacements where practical or when it was to challenging to run new romex back to panel.
@UpnorthHere4 жыл бұрын
In my dad's 1956 house, with cloth-covered 2-conductor cables, someone had run an "extra" grounding wire to the receptacles that needed to be grounding type.
@MP-zf7kg3 жыл бұрын
I tape mine for 3 reasons: -yes, to work on while it's hot -if a wire should somehow rattle loose, the tape MIGHT be enough to keep in in place and not shorting -if for some reason the cover plate is off, it's a little bit of protection (for example, when painting a wall) It takes very little time to tape one up.
@ellynw49804 жыл бұрын
Hi, your explain is so clear, I love it! In addition, my mom’s house is 1950’s. I could not find ground wire in the boxes and when I tested it, it showed me middle and right lights on. What is this mean? It is good? Some electrical recommended me, we have to re-wire house. I really confused it.
@productionapostle12984 жыл бұрын
Nice video man... my understanding is load and feed make no difference top or bottom as they are both connected to the same plate.. you can have a hot load at top and neutral load at bottom and same with feed and they will work maybe industry standard says bottom load and pop the flat head top off he screwdriver and use the 5/16 bit holder instead it should hold easy you can rub a magnet on it or leave it to get it to hold better.. again good job man
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! Yeah not sure if convention or rule. I just copy whatever was already there, unless it seems dangerous.
@adamxu3 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin First of all you need to find out which outlet is the most upstream one and connect the feeding cable to Source, so all the downstream/Load will be protected as well. You need to find out which pair lines is the feeding cable in your video, otherwise Gfci would not protect it if you put the feeding pair at Load, but the downstream outlets would be protected. BTW, the added ground wire is not really grounding, so you need to put a label to indicate "Gfci protected but not grounded" for all outlets in this chain, including the GFCI one..
@rachelhagins14014 жыл бұрын
I have this type of outlet behind a shelf in my kitchen I sometimes use what I need to use out there from that outlet and I haven’t replaced it because I Savage
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
Those savages and their two pronged outlets! Three prong gang 4lyf.
@joew8438 Жыл бұрын
I usually would err on the side of using a smaller rated outlet, such as 15 amp. If the wiring is 12 gauge and the circuit breaker is 15, use 15 amp outlets also, and be relatively confident you won't have heat problems in your wiring. Over built. I'd also go with a GFCI instead of using a grounding strip. If the outlet isn't grounded at the panel, I think that's the safest way to minimize risk of fire or shock.
@grantmiller61473 жыл бұрын
Before doing this at least make sure your box is grounded itself, otherwise it’s useless. If you don’t know, just install a GFCI outlet
@marquette933 жыл бұрын
How would you know if your box is grounded?
@corygillyard14553 жыл бұрын
@@marquette93 With a multimeter, set the settings a AC. Stick on of the probes into the short side of the receptacle meaning the short blade where your plug goes your receptacle then the other probe touch the screw that connects your outlet cover plate. If you get 120V to that screw(hot to ground) then you have a grounded outlet therefore you can change it to a 3 prong grounded receptacle. If not then most likely it's not grounded it could be an old style romex cable with no ground or it could be a BX where it's not connected properly at the junction box if you have power coming from the ceiling light and no pancake or light box. Typical in older homes.
@Dabket3araB3 жыл бұрын
Would installing a GFCI outlet fix the "no ground" indicator on the tester?
@Dabket3araB3 жыл бұрын
I did the same thing and the tester showed "no ground". Is that because your metal outlet box is grounded by the breakers panel and mine is not?
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
Quite possible, you have to have metal cabling which provides the ground path. If not, you can swap to a GFCI outlet and label it "no equipment ground". That's acceptable too.
@FKNSENDIT4 жыл бұрын
I use tape when adding a plug in a metal box so when u push ur plug in the wall it wont arc on the ground wire not bending across one of the set screws
@johnsonja3294 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the video! Just bought a house loaded with old 2 prong outlets, but newer 3 prong upstairs. Need to convert some of these over to run a couple of window AC units.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
You're welcome! Remember, armored cable only.
@johnsonja3294 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin Video is only applicable for armored wire? Just want to make sure I'm understanding you correctly.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
That is correct - type AC armored cable with an internal grounding strip.
@johnsonja3294 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin thank you. I have to pull an outlet out and see what I'm working with.
@UpnorthHere4 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin I know you know this: If you don't have ground and don't have armored cable you can still legally replace a two-prong with a three-prong GFCI receptacle. Also, to consider whether an A/C unit pulls "too much power" for the existing wiring and its overcurrent protection (e.g., de-rated by 20 percent for continuous use, i.e., maximum current for 3 hours or more).
@lqdxoni14 жыл бұрын
I recommend going to sparky channel or electrician u channels for this type of stuff.
@DBraun-uj8ir4 жыл бұрын
Sparky Channel may have closed their account today. Typed a Question earlier, but then couldn't re-access.
@camron26743 жыл бұрын
“And of course get it inspected by a cat”, lmao!!
@larrygreen89124 жыл бұрын
Have you ever thought about using the ohm meter across the neutral and the ground. Just in case a plastic junction has been installed somewhere.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
It's a great idea, will definitely give you a good clue if it's working properly. I assume the outlet tester works on the same principle.
@mikeeiben34304 жыл бұрын
I always test the ground by putting a 100 watt light bulb between the hot and the ground to make sure it will carry a load if necessary.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
That's a really solid idea, I think I might add it to the pinned comment among other user contributed ideas. Thank you!
@mikeeiben34304 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin ,question for you. On a 15 amp outlet, is it not rated for 15 amps each outlet? If I am not mistaken it will accept 10 gauge wire.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
That doesn't sound right. 30A would probably cook it in a hurry. As for 10AWG it'd be a real struggle to get it to fit, with no benefit since everything should be determined by the size of your breaker, usually only 15 or 20 amps.
@ricks1611 Жыл бұрын
The inside of a 15 amp and a 20 amp duplex receptacle are identical. Only the face cover is different. More than likely that melted receptacle was caused by a loose screw on that wire. If the associated breaker is correctly sized for the wire it will trip before melting the wire. Take one apart and see.
@rmojo234 жыл бұрын
The old outlet is a 20 amp outlet(thus the horizontal left lug)
@UpnorthHere4 жыл бұрын
Not necessarily. It had BOTH slots with the horizontal, which could have also been used at15A or 20A at 250 volts, as with NEMA 2-15P or 2-20P cords.
@TheHalusis2 жыл бұрын
the older BX cable connected to the metal outlet gang box isnt technically grounded at all(so pig tail isnt enough), if there is any connection the the breaker box it is a danger, even IF the upgrade was to ground the breaker box to the earth it would still result in a shock(from the breaker box) if there was a short. Use a sheathed green whatever gauge ground wire to pig tail from each outlet and earth ground, only way
@WACKO11233 жыл бұрын
The damaged receptacle you showed was damaged due to a loose screw at that connection point and the high resistance caused it to overheat. Has nothing to do with the rating of the receptacle. And Aluminum oxide is NOT flammable. The reason aluminum wiring caused fires was again high resistance connections due to corrosion where the dissimilar metals(copper and aluminum) connected together.
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
Everything you said is correct, so I do have some wrong info there.
@dustinkey59614 жыл бұрын
slide the tip of the screw driver on a old speaker magnet it will make magnetic
@bobloblaw96394 жыл бұрын
How does screwing the ground wire into the back of the box actually ground it? I have to replace a lot of these 2 prongs in my house and I want to make sure it's actually grounded when I do it.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
It doesn't unless you can verify that you have armored cabling with an internal grounding strip going all the way back to your breaker panel.
@garrisonjones93404 жыл бұрын
Grab a tester and cross check the Black (hot)wire to the copper wire, do this carefully with the power on, if it lights up, your box is grounded, you're are good to go!
@Sparky-ww5re4 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin I love you well informed you are about making videos that are safe to post to help others. Especially mentioning the internal grounding strip. From a safety standpoint. Required for AC cable in 1959, correct me if I'm off. The problem is, some types of older AC type called BX cable, did not have that internal bonding strip, and in very rare cases, I have personally never witnessed it myself, but some of my fellow electricians know someone who has seen a situation where the old bx cable sheathing heated up enough to start a fire during a fault to ground situation, the sheath most likely was damaged or rusted and had enough resistance to test as grounded with a test light (like you did) but did not draw enough current to blow the fuse (perhaps an oversize fuse/fuse bypassed with a penny) but enough current flowed on the other cable sheath to heat up like a toaster element (he described the joist had been charred where the cable had been stapled) and found during a remodel. Just another thing to be aware of
@Sparky-ww5re4 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin you are probably good using the cable sheath as a ground. Based on the breaker box (assuming it was original to the house) and the wood wall paneling with the two prong outlets the home was probably built sometime in the mid to late 1950s or early 1960s, just before the requirement for grounded receptacles
@liquidcelica3 жыл бұрын
In CA, by code if your box is metal it has to be connected back to your ground.
@kimcup50003 жыл бұрын
Excellent video! I learned a lot. Thank you!
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
Happy I could help!
@lionkingdom7774 жыл бұрын
You should do some research. You can't use a 20 amp outlet with a 14 gauge wire but you can certainly use a 15 amp outlet with a 12 gauge wire. It's actually recommended to use 15 amp outlets when running several outlets on one 20 amp breaker. The only time you are better off with a 20 amp outlet is if it is dedicated.
@UpnorthHere4 жыл бұрын
To put it another way, the gauge of wire determines the maximum current allowed in the branch overcurrent protection device. The receptacle devices may be either 15 or 20 on a 12-gauge branch.
@Sparky-ww5re2 жыл бұрын
Ancient tandem/parallel outlet. Can accept NEMA 1-15P, 1-20P (120V) , 2-15P or 2-20P (240V) A 5-20P, 6-15P or 6-20P with the ground pin removed will also fit. Because of the dangers of improper voltage these outlets have been banned for decades. In the earlier part of the 20th century, particularly the roaring 20s when home appliances became increasingly available and affordable for the middle class, before the industry settled on NEMA standards, there were actually two versions of plugs, the parallel, which is now 1-15P, and the tandem, which is now 2-15P, and they were used interchangeably depending on who designed the lamp or appliance. In turn it became a common practice for homes to have these funky T slot outlets, to allow that new fangled clothes iron or vacuum cleaner to be easily used, regardless of manufacturer. Virtually all of these outlets were hooked up to 120 volts, with some rare exceptions. In a large office building, for example, they may have been 240V, for large fans, high power lighting. Some light bulbs were 240 volt rated, and both plug types could have been used. You had to know the voltage supply, and plug in at your own risk. Isn't NEMA standards so romantic? 😘
@Bootstrappin Жыл бұрын
I'm impressed at the depth of your knowledge of NEMA standards history. Definitely either a master electrician or EE lol. I'm sure it was quite a spectacle to plug your 120V appliance unwittingly into a 240V outlet.
@Sparky-ww5re Жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin thank you for your kind words. I'm a journeyman planning to get my masters next fall. As for my knowledge, last year I was going through the estate after my great grandmother passed on. In her attic, was a Graybar Electric catalog, 1926-'27, which had all kinds of nonstandard plugs and receptacles. Tandem, (--) Parallel ( || ) Polarized (| I or - |) two versions of polarized were shown. Also available at that time were edison screw shell plugs and receptacles. The edison receptacle was basically a medium base lamp socket on the wall, with a brass flapper that you flip up to screw a cord with a screw shell plug in (tamper resistant outlets anyone😵?) I guess they called it the roaring twenties because everyone was so excited to have that fancy waffle iron or Hoover vacuum cleaner , and they didn't think safety first, besides flappers, prohibition, silent films then the talkies later in the decade, and organized crime. Must have been a very interesting decade to grow up in 😁
@spodee554 жыл бұрын
I have two prongs. When I pull the outlet out there are black white and red wires. Does the red mean it is a switched receptacle? Also how do I know if my cabling is armored or my box has a grounding plate
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
Yes, red wire is usually used as the runner for switching, but you need to verify that. To verify armored cabling, go to your electrical panel and have a look, assuming it is exposed. You're also looking for a ground bonding strip inside the armor, not all armored cabling came with one.
@ai4px4 жыл бұрын
That black outlet you replaced is 240.... Two sideways pins is 15amp 240v.... that one has both horizontal and vertical so it’s 20amp 240v. The problem with aluminum isn’t the oxide flammable. It’s that alumum expands and contracts and works loose. Also issues with the first generation of alloys used in bus bars like the Zinsco panels.
@wizard3z8684 жыл бұрын
FPE as well call them both the red handles of hell fire lol
@njsongwriter3 жыл бұрын
I believe aluminum wiring is okay as long as you use compatible receptacles etc.
@jthonn4 жыл бұрын
Correct me if I am wrong, but when you screw the receptacle into that metal box, that would ground it without using the added wire, if the box is grounded.(unnecessary work) Maybe just gives you a piece of mind. In fact the adapters give you a green wire to connect to the cover screw for grounding, once again if the box is grounded.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
Technically correct if the shell of the outlet is connected directly to the ground prong, but not good enough to be code compliant, and you don't want to rely on screws of unknown conductivity.
@jthonn4 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin ok cool
@wizard3z8684 жыл бұрын
its code if you dont understand or dont know seek a help in doing electrical work plse
@jthonn4 жыл бұрын
@@wizard3z868 I thought I was rough on the English language. lol
@wizard3z8684 жыл бұрын
@@jthonn lol ya i dont pay attention much to youtube on grammer lol
@Bootstrappin5 жыл бұрын
Important detail: you MUST have a grounding strip inside your armored cable, also known as Type AC cable. You should be able to spot it when you open the cover of your outlet, it's a bare tin plated steel wire. You might have better luck spotting it where the cable enters your electrical panel. See NEC 250.118 Sections 8 & 9: (8) Flexible metallic tubing where the tubing is terminated in fittings listed for grounding and meeting the following conditions: a. The circuit conductors contained in the tubing are protected by overcurrent devices rated at 20 amperes or less. b. The combined length of flexible metal conduit and flexible metallic tubing and liquidtight flexible metal conduit in the same ground return path does not exceed 1.8 m (6 ft). (9) Armor of Type AC cable with an additional equipment grounding conductor and as provided in 320.108. See an example here: activerain.com/image_store/uploads/2/2/5/9/2/ar1364321329522.jpg
@lambition5 жыл бұрын
That wire is called bonding wire and it is usually a tin plated steel wire not aluminum. Having 15A receptacle on 20A circuit is not what caused your receptacle to burn. 15A receptacles are rated for 20A pass through. It is usually due to a loose or corroded connection. It is perfectly fine to have 15A receptacles on 20A given that you have more than 1 on the circuit (a duplex receptacle counts as 2).
@Bootstrappin5 жыл бұрын
@@lambition I stand corrected, thank you for the info!
@bmfitzgerald34 жыл бұрын
Why would your armored cable have a grounding wire or "bonding wire" inside of it if your house had only two prong outlets? If they were running that ground wire to every outlet, seems like they would've just grounded all the receptacles to begin with. What am I missing?
@seanmcgroty22483 жыл бұрын
@@bmfitzgerald3 Devices weren't grounded and likewise grounded outlets didn't exist when the house was first built. Grounds were intended to protect against loose or faulty connections inside the boxes and were much more of an ad-hoc thing than nowadays or even a couple of decades post-construction
@slappadabass32903 жыл бұрын
Not many people are going to have MC cable running to a receptacle lol IMO using the jacket as a ground is not a good grounding source. Also, you should pigtail the outlet. The way you connected it will kill everything down the line if that 50cent outlet goes bad. If you’re not going to run a new line replace the 2-prong with a GFCI
@TheKanashimishow4 жыл бұрын
I just became your 667 like,the devil can eat my shorts.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
You show that devil who's boss!
@TheKanashimishow4 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin 😂
@mrBDeye4 жыл бұрын
When my car odometer reached 666 I stopped driving it.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
@@mrBDeye oh no, don't let that devil win like that!
@lebronjameslol35213 жыл бұрын
I think they sell extender plates to go under the wall mounts so the outlet is flush with the plate.
@stevefrost8312 жыл бұрын
Holding the camera, flashlight, grounding wire & screw, AND your screwdriver? I guess I can't complain when I can't do just two of those.
@DennisMathias3 жыл бұрын
I would say somebody popped in a new 20 a breaker not paying attention to the outlets. But why the 12 gauge? I like the way you still assume there is voltage on the outlet. Very wise. I think I'd use a nut driver for that ground screw.
@VOLTRONDEFENDER44402 ай бұрын
You can put a 15amp outlet on a 20amp circuit but not a 20amp outlet on a 15amp circuit
@Midnitedreary88 Жыл бұрын
Well, you can have a 15 amp rated receptacle on a 20 amp breaker. However, the idea behind that being allowed is that those receptacles won't exceed 80% of the receptacles amp rating which would 12 amps for a 15 amp rated receptacle.
@surferdude642 Жыл бұрын
There's nothing in a receptacle (15 or 20 amp in this case) to prevent 80% or more of the circuit current rating, it's just conductive material. The only way to control that is selecting the proper wire gauge for the circuit and/or limiting the number of simultaneous loads of significant power consumption.
@Midnitedreary88 Жыл бұрын
@@surferdude642 I agree, but knowing that you shouldn’t exceed 80 of the receptacles amp rating would allow you to be conscious of what ur plugging into that receptacle to make sure the load(s) don’t exceed the 80% threshold.
@coloradostrong2 жыл бұрын
Silly you with an actual breaker panel. I'm still working with fuses, bare wires and glass insulators.
@Bootstrappin2 жыл бұрын
Oh man silly me indeed. Aside from that stuff being so old that it just needs to be replaced, I suppose you could stick GFCI outlets everywhere and call it a day.
@WeegieMan924 жыл бұрын
Very helpful video ! Thank you
@NA-xm7wj2 жыл бұрын
But you still have voltage drop in todays works even in 2019 national standard dictates that you should have wire nutted the two black wires with a pig tail to the outlet itself along with the white wires as well. But kudos for actually grounding the outlet
@Bootstrappin2 жыл бұрын
Luckily for me I suppose, I did this in 2018 X)
@NA-xm7wj2 жыл бұрын
Yes having a good electrician friend is always good to have. I’m just having trouble understanding the logic behind the setup. If I can’t understand it then leave it alone or go about it another way that I understand. My neighbor recently told me that if you install gfci circuits in the breaker box it will basically do what I think you’re talking about. But unclear about what he’s telling me too
@Bootstrappin2 жыл бұрын
@@NA-xm7wj I see what he's saying. NEC says that if making a ground path like I did isn't feasible, you can install a GFCI outlet and label it "no ground". Not sure about what a GFCI breaker would do though.
@NA-xm7wj2 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin my point exactly
@nncoco3 жыл бұрын
Nice pine. My beach house has it but it was painted.
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
We wound up painting it white, looks more modern now!
@SteveV20233 жыл бұрын
So, what makes you think the box itself is grounded???
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
I guess you didn't watch the video? Metal box, attached to metal sheath, further grounded to bonding strip, all attached back to the ground bar at the panel, verified with an outlet tester.
@njsongwriter3 жыл бұрын
15 amp receptacles are fine on a 20 amp circuit.
@cxa0115004 жыл бұрын
How can I find a good electrician who will know what to do and actually do it? My mother's old house has 2 prong outlets all over that need to be swapped out and probably checked to make sure they have the right outlets for the right switches.
@wizard3z8684 жыл бұрын
you either pay a fortune and watch over thier shoulder or just win the lottery ???
@jackMcRyder4 жыл бұрын
This video is useful to me for the tiny tricks on the cable wrapped around the screw. Don’t have the metal shielded cable unfortunately.. 😕
@UpnorthHere4 жыл бұрын
You may still install a 3-slot "grounding type" GFCI receptacle without any grounding wire, unless your local code prohibits it.
@dhelton402 жыл бұрын
With no ground in the box, the ground "pig tail" is pointless. This type of rag wire has no ground wire so the box does not connect to ground. The electric code is very clear on how to deal with this. Replace it with a GFCI receptacle (which does not need a ground to protect from leakage current). A GFCI breaker will also work. If this had been armor cable or conduit, this method would have provided a ground path.
@Bootstrappin2 жыл бұрын
You're right about GFCI and armored cabling. Did you not watch the video? Armored cabling is what I had and explicitly said it is needed to make this a viable grounding method.
@rbk78764 жыл бұрын
He sounds like my science teacher from 1978 😉
@garrisonjones93404 жыл бұрын
You cannot know if your metal outlet box is grounded or not just because you have metal conduit running toward or to it, always make sure it's truly ground.
@pavel553394 жыл бұрын
Great way to explain thank you
@crazysquirrel9425 Жыл бұрын
I have that EXACT same 2 prong outlet! I have the ole ceramic post type wiring. It is impossible to run modern wire through the walls unless you rip out the antique walls to do it. And the lead paint under the paneling... I believe those old outlets were made out of Bakelite. VERY durable. Built to last nearly a lifetime. New outlets are made from CHEAP PLASTIC. Designed to last a scant few years. The old copper was MUCH stiffer than modern day. Wrapping the outlet with electrical tape was a safety issue. Just in case any screws loosened over time and touched the metal box. I thought you were supposed to have 6-8 inches of wire out the box. Your 6in ground wire is too short because 1-1/2 to 2" or so is inside the box. '
@surferdude642 Жыл бұрын
That's a 20 amp residential grade receptacle and is inferior to a 15 amp spec grade receptacle which is what you should be using, if you verified that the metal box has a good ground. If not, you need a GFCI receptacle. There's no need for a 20 receptacle.
@johnf66874 жыл бұрын
Noted by the East west notched in the outlet many times those are the 20amp
@UpnorthHere4 жыл бұрын
Or else 250 volts at 15 or 20 amps. No longer allowed to have "both" in a single receptacle configuration.
@chelley583 жыл бұрын
my house has these exact same walls throughout
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
They're really nice, I'd only change the stain to something more modern.
@gerrylouis57873 жыл бұрын
I would have gotten a standard (as opposed to Decora) brown receptacle and reused the original plate. The Decora and white doesn't match the original architecture.
@micahbryant67782 жыл бұрын
You can put a 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit, but not a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit.
@jamieflexer93474 жыл бұрын
Actually if the outlet has the half slot coming from the middle of the vertical slot that would be a 20amp outlet google what a 20amp plug say on a real heavy duty vacume or other heavy duty appliance also if the BX cable is entered into the/A metal box properly as soon as you screw the outlet into the box with its 6-32 screws then POW your outlet is now grounded or should i say your 20 amp outlet is now properly grounded & you are right about the aluminum wire mostly used for a brief period in the early 70's but its burns like a fireworks fuse but they sell something called petrox that either is in a wire nut or a small squeeze bottle & anytime you splice copper to aluminum a few drops of it in/on the splice your good to go.. hope this helps someone a little...
@wendellinigo36444 жыл бұрын
Im doing this in my house and before doing any of this, i tested for ground with my multimeter. I measured hot to ground by putting the red probe in the hot prong and put the black probe on the inside of the metal box. This gave me 30v on one of my outlets. The others were showing 120v. Why is one of my boxes improperly grounded? How can i fix this?
@jamieflexer93474 жыл бұрын
For what its worth if the cable entering the box is BX or metal sheathing & the 30v you got was definitely from hot to ground (hot being a black or red color wire on the darker colored screws of the outlet also the smaller size of the 2 flat blades or prongs) & neutral to ground (white or lighter colored wire & the longer of the 2 blades or prongs) to ground cause you can get several crazy volts off a neutral to ground test which would depend on anything from an actual switched outlet or a fridge or celing fan on that same circut but way back when they actually had gas lighting & chandeliers (now a large round decorative tin or copper plate with like an eggplant shaped cover in the middle of it) but back then wall switches would control an outlet in a roon ment say for a lamp but then there's the some one just screwed up the wiring along that circut meaning hot & neutral is reversed somewhere but again if its a metal covered cable in the box & its secured to the box properly it should be the 110/120volts to ground or to neutral but as i stated in another comment the 2 screws that actually secure the outlet to the box (if metal cable is used) is gunna ground the outlet but also remember then if you remove the 2 (6-32) screws from the box then test the outlet for voltage from say the hot side or hot blade to the neutral side you will only get the 110 or 120v there but if you test the hot side to the botton (round) ground 3rd prong you wont get anything cause removing the outlet completely from the box only held on by the copper wires doing so removed the ground..ok hope this helps a little or if im to late hope you found out pretty much what i said ...good luck
@jjs211u4 жыл бұрын
Good information except for the fact that aluminum oxide is NOT flammable, it is just not a conductor. As aluminum oxide forms heat builds up because of the resistance.
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
That's correct, wrong assumption on my part
@bensonhurst72724 жыл бұрын
Great video. How did you find out if the box was grounded? Also, If the box is grounded why do you need a ground pigtail to outlet. Shouldn't the outlet be grounded by touching the metal box? Thanks!
@wizard3z8684 жыл бұрын
its nec code everything be bonded at all times
@UpnorthHere4 жыл бұрын
@@wizard3z868 No, it's not "nec code". Some receptacles ALSO have a self-grounding feature in which the grounding contact is bonded to the mounting strap. Others require a pigtail to a screw. Some do both.
@johngembka70523 жыл бұрын
You mentioned if wire is 14 gauge and breaker is 20 amp, change the breaker to 15 amp. What if breaker is 15 amp and outlet is 15 amp, but wire is 12 gauge (copper wire, not aluminum wire)? Is it okay to leave breaker and outlet alone or is it necessary to upgrade breaker and outlet?
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
12 gauge wire is designed to carry up to 20A, so it's not a safety hazard.
@tanyaortega52913 жыл бұрын
i must have missed the part where you made sure that the box itself was grounded properly or do all old electrical systems hav grounded boxes
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
No, not all old boxes are grounded. Like I said in the beginning of the video - I know mine is grounded because I have armored cabling (which is conductive) AND it has an internal bonding strip/conductor. You can also do a resistance check.
@TheDKAndDBEnthusiast2 жыл бұрын
If you have the vintage Outlet that means is super rare
@Bootstrappin2 жыл бұрын
What do you mean by super rare?
@TheDKAndDBEnthusiast2 жыл бұрын
It's because it's not have a ground and it was made in the 1950s Indo things do not exist I mean without the t they have those but they do not have the t
@dondon4056 Жыл бұрын
Using flexable conduit as a ground is a code violation because it is not a solid conduit. Sure it might work but if your house burns down and investigated, your insurance may have a issue with this violation. It is best to run a solid chaser wire instead from the outlet to the breaker box ground. Best get advise from your local Electrician.
@Bootstrappin Жыл бұрын
I know what you mean, but it seems permissible per NEC, particularly where a bonding/grounding strip runs inside the armor: See NEC 250.118 Sections 8 & 9: (8) Flexible metallic tubing where the tubing is terminated in fittings listed for grounding and meeting the following conditions: a. The circuit conductors contained in the tubing are protected by overcurrent devices rated at 20 amperes or less. b. The combined length of flexible metal conduit and flexible metallic tubing and liquidtight flexible metal conduit in the same ground return path does not exceed 1.8 m (6 ft). (9) Armor of Type AC cable with an additional equipment grounding conductor and as provided in 320.108. See an example here: activerain.com/image_store/uploads/2/2/5/9/2/ar1364321329522.jpg
@dondon4056 Жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin I double checked my outlets again after reading this and noticed only 2 of 12 outlets in my house do not have the ground strip. So I grounded 10 3 prong outlets and used 2 CFCI outlets. Thanks for responding to my message, it is what made me check all the outlets, instead of just 2 outlets. Thanks very much for your help and feed back. Now I don't have to rip out all the sheet rock and rewire my house.
@Bootstrappin Жыл бұрын
Sure thing, glad it worked out! And totally right about the GFCI - that's the alternative method. I guess you also have to label them "no equipment ground" per code.
@mikedee58423 жыл бұрын
how could do the ground wire if electrical box was plastic? Thanks.
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
At that point the most economical thing to do is to replace the outlet with a GFCI outlet and put a sticker on it that says "no equipment ground" (this is 'to code'). The alternative is routing new 3 conductor cabling.
@huntleyillinois57675 жыл бұрын
thanks dude for teaching us
@Bootstrappin5 жыл бұрын
You're welcome!
@mr.3phase2285 жыл бұрын
You can only put a 15 amp outlet on 20 amp circuit if it is rated for 20 amp pass through
@donl14104 жыл бұрын
Actually you can put 15 amp receps on a 20 amp circuit if you have more than one 15 amp recep on that circuiut
@frankpaya6904 жыл бұрын
@@donl1410 why would the number of outlets make any difference? If your Overcurrent is 20 amps, your receptacle at 15, would be 5 amps below that.
@donl14104 жыл бұрын
@@frankpaya690 Code requirements: NEC Article 210.21(B)(1) Single Receptacle on an Individual Branch Circuit. A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit. Article 210.21 (B)(3) Permits the use of Table 210.21(B)(3) where the receptacles are connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles. Circuit Rating (Amperes) 20- Receptacle Rating (Amperes) 15 or 20
@brockiesmallwood77993 жыл бұрын
I've been told unless you have a ground wire running to that box that is from the breaker panel in some way you are still not grounded because the box has no ground and that doing this is a fake ground
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
Right, and that is why the ground path we use is the metallic sheath with the internal bonding strip, both of which are conductive.
@felipechan96544 жыл бұрын
Good day sir, how many volts will you get if you connect the voltmeter one lead to one hot terminal and the other probe to the ground socket, and also the N terminal to the ground socket? Tyi
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
Hot to ground is 120VAC, N to ground is 0VAC
@monkeydude39875 жыл бұрын
Gonna have a poop-ton of these to do in a house we just moved into - great video thanks for sharing!
@Bootstrappin5 жыл бұрын
Yeah it's a massive pain in the neck, and you'll probably find some nasty surprises. Be sure your armored cable is connected to ground at the panel. Otherwise, NEC states to replace all of them with GFCIs labeled with "no equipment ground".
@UpnorthHere4 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin If not also AFCI and tamper-resistant features.
@TomCee532 жыл бұрын
I use a nut driver to put in the grounding screw.
@Bootstrappin2 жыл бұрын
I actually really like this idea, no risk of stripping. Do you know the size off the top of your head?
@TomCee532 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin I think it’s 9/32, but try 1/4 & 5/16.
@Bootstrappin2 жыл бұрын
@@TomCee53 nice man, thanks!
@martinmercerjr86152 жыл бұрын
Is it against electrical code to add a ground wire like this
@Bootstrappin2 жыл бұрын
As far as I know, yes, but codes always change. This is a comment I wrote from a few years ago: Important detail: you MUST have a grounding strip inside your armored cable, also known as Type AC cable. You should be able to spot it when you open the cover of your outlet, it's a bare tin plated steel wire. You might have better luck spotting it where the cable enters your electrical panel. See NEC 250.118 Sections 8 & 9: (8) Flexible metallic tubing where the tubing is terminated in fittings listed for grounding and meeting the following conditions: a. The circuit conductors contained in the tubing are protected by overcurrent devices rated at 20 amperes or less. b. The combined length of flexible metal conduit and flexible metallic tubing and liquidtight flexible metal conduit in the same ground return path does not exceed 1.8 m (6 ft). (9) Armor of Type AC cable with an additional equipment grounding conductor and as provided in 320.108. See an example here: activerain.com/image_store/uploads/2/2/5/9/2/ar1364321329522.jpg
@manwan13133 жыл бұрын
"Get it inspected by a cat" (that was chasing a house centipede).
@blokey51605 жыл бұрын
Should be a pigtails going to the socket. Socket links should never be used as part of the circuit. Links are there for when socket is used as a 'half hot' or one socket is switched.
@Bootstrappin5 жыл бұрын
I'm not sure what you mean, can you elaborate? Do you mean the ground wire needs to be pigtailed as a coil to provide immunity against motion? What are you calling a link?
@blokey51605 жыл бұрын
Line, neutral and ground wires should have pigtails going to the sockets so that any failure in the socket will not interrupt current flow to the next socket down the line. The links on the sides of the socket should only have the other end of the pigtail connected to it and the unused screw should be tightened. In the event you need to split the socket into two circuits the link can be cut and both screws are used to connect the line and a switched line (for light fixture for example). Picture of a pigtail connection ... imgur.com/a/mBVAVEL Another advantage of using pigtail is any movement of the socket with devices being plugged/unplugged and the screws working loose then only the socket connection is affected and current to other sockets is not interrupted.
@rogerpritchard53995 жыл бұрын
I believe that’s only when using a gfci outlet
@atonakitas48215 жыл бұрын
I have a three prong outlet inside a metal box with the wiring being in the same orientation as yours is it possible to wire another two receptacles in a 2 gang box from my current setup if so any info would be greatly appreciated
@johnmcmanus72265 жыл бұрын
Absolute falsehood! NEC stipulates you only need pig-tailing when required on a multi wire branch circuit with a shared neutral. As for movement of the device - NEC requires they be FIRMLY secured to prevent movement. If you have movement you have other issues.
@mybabyb153 жыл бұрын
I moved into a house built in the 50s but some rooms were updated with 3 prongs some still have 2. Also we have a fuse box instead of a breaker box. Is it still safe to just change the outlets to 3 prongs or do I need to get rid of the fuse box?
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
That all depends, there's nothing wrong with a fuse box necessarily. In some ways fuses are superior safety wise to circuit breakers. But as for grounding, you'll have to inspect and see what you have, and if it can be reasonably modified to create a ground path back to your electrical panel, or whether you'll have to just install modern cabling.
@johnmcmanus72265 жыл бұрын
Maybe the first problem is a BOZO advising you on home repairs! Comments and outright false information: 1. Aluminium wiring IS a problem and the issue is Alum. Oxide but not because it is flammable, this is utter nonsense! it is a form of corrosion which compromises the electrical connection and degrades it causing arcing and this can lead to fires. If you have aluminum wiring consult a LICENSED electrician. There is a protocol for correcting this to make it safe without the expense of replacing all your wiring. 2. 15 AMP devices (duplex receptacle in this case) are allowed on 20 amp circuits. They will not melt or fail to function properly if used as such. 3. This is obviously an older home w/ two prong receptacles in the traditional style ( the Knotty Pine paneling is another sign) so if you are going to replace with a grounded duplex receptacle (three prong) why not use the traditional style & color compatible with the rest of the home? The modern Decora Style duplex chosen in this video is out of place. Also requires a new switch plate where as with traditional style it can be reused. 4. It is not the rating of the circuit breaker that determines this is a 20 amp circuit. Rather, it is the gauge or size of the wire. In older homes like this it is not at all unusual to see a higher rated breaker used as replacement because of tripping problems. So always check. In this case the wiring IS correct; 12 gauge is 20 amp but if it were 14 gauge, you should replace the breaker with a 15 amp to match the correct ampacity of the wire. Always be on the lookout for this - it is a very common problem.
@lindalori525 жыл бұрын
My electric remodel 10 yrs. ago for this old house needed to have surface mounts. The new outlet by the sink has two switches for lights under counter and above sink and two sockets (GFI) for plugs. Noticed recently that I was getting a shock from my cell phone when it was plugged into those sockets. However, no shocks from my mixer, coffee maker, and other small appliances. I contacted the electrician after I checked the outlets with a little device you plug in to measure if the wiring is correct or not...and it registered "open ground". Turns out there is nothing that can be done to fix this issue other than don't plug my phone in that outlet. ???? However, it is a GFI which would shut down the power if it came in contact with water. Seriously? I wish I had been told about this when it was installed. Could have saved myself a $95 service call to learn something that I should have been told during the install process. Still not happy about the issue remaining. Any advice?
@johnmcmanus72265 жыл бұрын
@@lindalori52 A Lot goin on here but I'll hazard an opinion - high probability I'm correct. If you had GFCI circuits or a device protecting the two kitchen outlets then it would test open ground but this is OK. The GFCI protects you not by CLEARING a ground fault by causing the breaker or fuse to trip, for that you need a ground, BUT by analyzing current flow on the conductors and shutting power off in miliseconds if it detects a current leak. Same desired result - the current is shut off shock hazard is resolved. In the case of a groud the breaker shuts off the current and with a GFCI the device itself shuts off the cucrrent at the device and downstream. NOW if your cellphone is plugged in to this GFCI -protected outlet when you touch the cell phone you receive a shock. But doesn't the cell phone connect thru an adapter? This adapter converts the AC Line current (110-120V) to DC Current at nominal voltage (probably less than 12V DC) and the adapter uses a two prong unpolarized plug so even if plugged in to a grounded recpticle, it wouldn't use it. I think you are reeiving a shock fo prrom the DC voltage coming thru the adapter and this would explain why none of the other apliances shock you when plugged in to the same outlet. Try a different adapter & cord in this outlet or try this adapter in a different outlet. good Luck!
@buggsy55 жыл бұрын
@@johnmcmanus7226 Yep, it sounds like either the cell phone or the charger is defective.
@lindalori525 жыл бұрын
@@johnmcmanus7226 Thanks! I will get a different adapter and cord. If that doesn't work? The tester also did say the neutral and black were reversed but the GFCI wouldn't test properly if that was the case, right?
@lindalori525 жыл бұрын
@@johnmcmanus7226 The only outlet I get shocked with this is the one by the kitchen sink which is an open ground. Same plug in charger in other outlets doesn't cause a shock. Will the open ground make this happen? Thanks so much!
@anokhaladla4 жыл бұрын
Can you give a workaround in case if there is no ground wire at all behind the cover or outlet? I mean it's just two wires red/black and two prong outlet on the front. Now what can I do to make use of equipment which comes with three legged plugs without using a changer or losing the ground connection? I do want to give the equipment a ground wire.. How can I do that? Can't I simply connect the third leg to the ground or anything like that? Plz excuse me if this is a stupid or foolish thing to ask. An advice will be a grateful. Thanks
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
What country are you in?
@anokhaladla4 жыл бұрын
@@Bootstrappin Pakistan
@Bootstrappin4 жыл бұрын
This video is for the United States. I don't know anything about regional codes and wiring in Pakistan. You may find the link below helpful, but in general you want three wires - hot, neutral, and ground. If you don't have a third wire (or metallic sheathing), then you likely don't have a ground path and will have to run new cable. qr.ae/pNnJQw
@harrisond81323 жыл бұрын
Thanks. Can I use a grounding clip instead of a screw? It would seem a lot easier.
@Bootstrappin3 жыл бұрын
I think that would be fine. I tried using those initially, but somehow the dimension was off (old box) and it didn't make a very secure connection, so I went with screws.
@surferdude6423 жыл бұрын
If your box is grounded and slightly recessed like this one you can break off the metal ears off the yoke and use them as shims between the receptacle and the box. You can add a short piece of ground wire (14 awg) to the back of the yoke and around the screw and the other end to the ground screw on the receptacle. Connect the hot and neutral last. Tighten your mounting screws firmly and you will have a solid ground.
@bobsbarnworkshop5 жыл бұрын
The latest NEC code does not allow using the receptacle as a current carrying part of any circuit, so you should make a junction in the box and add pigtails to the receptacle so the receptacle screws aren't carrying any power on to the next device.
@Bootstrappin5 жыл бұрын
I'll make an updated video. Thank you for the info!
@rickw41605 жыл бұрын
significant resistance develops that way, though some old timers do a loop around the screw, thereby the screw does no carrying (path of least resistance)
@lambition5 жыл бұрын
Which section is that on? I think you are mistaken for a section regarding multi wire branch circuit. Grounded conductor (neutral) on multi wire branch circuit is no longer allowed to use receptacle as a current carrying part. This was due to possibility of neutral becoming hot when one of the neutral got disconnected while one of the multi wire branch circuit is still turned on. This kind of the case. www.twielectric.com/safety-and-energy-saving-tips/national-electrical-code-multiwire-branch-circuit/
@johnmcmanus72265 жыл бұрын
This is NOT correct as far as NEC requirements. If you disagree please cite code section as reference. It MAY be a requirement in your area by the AHJ but this would be an example of a local restriction over and above the NEC. Not uncommon but in this case, because the practice of continuing circuits thru a device is so common and universal, I am skeptical.
@508phonewiresuckers5 жыл бұрын
Who cares about a silly code like that.
@okaro6595 Жыл бұрын
Aluminum oxide is not flammable it has already been oxidized.