Thanks

Me too... you said it exactly

Funny, because from your profile picture you don't look a day over 21

40 years , and you use a template ?????

I'm a retired carpenter and I use a framing square and a set of "dogs", no time to build a "template", but I can see how this would help a non-carpenter.

Thanks hope it helps

Nothing is more accurate than a finely made framing square Mr..

i have to say a framing square with buttons is quicker easier and more accurate.. someone who uses this method is likely a home owner or beginner, their cutting and line placement likely isnt perfect yet, if theyre off by even an eight on the cuts thatll add up for each step.. a 12 stair run and theyll be out an inch and a half its far easier to get buttons accurate on a square.. and if you dont have buttons and just place the square with marks on your measurements atleast if you place it off an 1/8" youre only changing one step the 1/8" youre not gonna place every stair an eight short in the same direction

Totally agree👍

I've been a carpenter never and I feel like this is a joke! Why wouldn't you just buy them already cut at Lowes. How stubborn we can be!

Glad to hear you liked. Hope it helps out on tour next project. Thanks for watching!!

Thanks hope it was a help

Thanks

🤣🤣🤣 You expect anybody to believe that?

People are always stealing my square so who needs one?

Well said mate 👍

Well said

The expert keeps up with his/her knowledge base by hiring someone else in the trade, watching videos, reading, expo's, etc. 'coz time is money. (Seeing a new thing even in an advert could change your world)

Your comment put a big smile on my face!!🤣

Good point... right on the money.

Mark Willie the negative comments arent from people watching so they learn how to do it, theyre watching to find fault, so they have something to criticise! In regard to the ark and titanic, the build quality of the titanic wasnt the reason it sank. It was weakened metal caused by an undiscovered fire amongst the coal, which caused a side plate to split open when it glanced a side impact on the iceberg. If the story of the ark is true, it took Noah 120 years to build it so it should have been good!

Yes sir hope it helps and thanks for watching!!

Yes those things are helpful on the square. Yes that could be done on ground that is not level. Mine was pretty close to level so I was able to make it level pretty easily.

Yep, they’re called stair gauges.

Well just don't lose them. Beside they are getting so cheap nowadays that you can keep an extra set. Or as I do, I keep one of my MANY squares with the permanently on it.

Unless it's a side hill, level the ground somewhat ? . Throw a couple patio stones ?

Nice twist on an old idea. As far as scribing the stringer, we always put something flat under the stringer, brick, block, paver, anything level, ground tamped so it won’t settle. I for one, love seeing young guys in the trades. So many won’t work, want to play video games for a living, etc. The few that want to work, really impress me with their skills. Today, a person with skills can watch a video done by a professional, imitating what they did and it’s like being in an advanced apprentice program, fast forward! Here’s the bottom line, “are the rise and runs to code, are they cut straight, are the stringers level and supported. If all of those are done and you have a nice looking, finished product, who cares how you get there if you and/or the customer is safe and happy”. Some people need to lighten up, lol

Well I am glad it was a help. Especially to a missionary.

Glad it was of help

Well good with the project. Thanks for watching!!

Thanks glad it was of help

that is a very stupid thing to say. First off, who is actually not liking his videos? Why are you changing, them criticizing his techniques, to not liking the videos? The people who don't pay attention to others and what they say, are the ones who will not get better. Rose colored glasses don't tell you the truth.

@@AztecWarrior69 I agree. There was no disclaimer in the video about other people's opinions not mattering. And sharing opinions does not equate to disliking.

@@6XXBANSHEEXX8 yup

Sweet glad it helped out

Thanks for the tips especially for a first timer and old timer like myself 👍 8:02

For accuracy, I never use a tape measure.

Yes, spot on since a vertical measurement right at the top of the landing doesn't account for a different rise measurement on the grade, however many feet out from the TOL. If your grade slopes away from the building and you need to maintain it for drainage, you'd need an overall height measurement from a level line from the top of the landing taken where the run of the stair lands at the bottom at grade.

The first framing squares I ever used were marked in 16th's on one side and 12th's on the other side. The side marked in 12th's was a wonder when figuring rafter measurements.

No prob hope it helps

Glad it helped

I love it when a diy newbie rips out their stairs and attempts a “new look”. Brings a little extra work my way ;)

Good cheat is rise plus run should be as close to 18 as possible.. No less than 17 and no greater than 19 which would result in unnatural/uncomfortable strides and potential trip hazards.

Well you should do a video on a easy way to figure how to put stairs in where you don't have room like putting in landings, spiral stairs. And so forth

I love my squi-jig for this

Been using that method for 20+ YEARS. Tried and true. Rise and run. I can appreciate another method but I'll stick with what I know.

I believe that if you watch the vid again the first step is to make your jig using part of the wood you are making the stringer out of. As each set of stairs is unique to its application the past jigs you used before are not the one you want now. That is why you make a new one for each job unless you are doing new construction where hopefully everything is mostly the same thing. Not any different than changing the stair buttons on your framing square, probably about the same speed once you get use to using the method without having to keep track or look for the buttons.

we always called them stair dogs

Yep no problem glad it helped and give us a like 👍

I had the same question 🤔

It doesn't matter, use the cleanest part of the 2x6. He screwed up that part of the explanation. The top end of the stringer ends with a run not a rise. That first rise mark he made gets cut all way the way thru the board at that angle.

No prob hope it helped

I've came in behind framers and ripped out several sets of steps Cause they didn't look at the prints to see what was going on top of the sub flooring 👍

I was looking for the answer to that myself

No problem hope it helps out

Maybe you could, but a DIY guy doing it once in his life can't.

If you stack your first stringer you cut on top of a 2nd board when you cut through it will mark your 2nd stringer for you and so on,another time saver and it is very accurate

I just had it so I could get 2 pieces out of the same board

And im in agreement as well. 1st time seeing this and love the idea of making a jig, but I didn't see the starting point on the 2×12 when u started making ur lines. ..I probably missed something and the answer is in here somewhere, I just didn't see it or figure it out! Thx to u for doing this video, my amateur ass will take all the help I can get!

No the 10 can be whatever you want if you have the room. The bigger the number the further from the landing it will be. I like 10 cause it gives plenty of room to step onto.

@@projectdiy873 perfect thank you so much!

The riser plus the tread measurement should be as close to 18” as possible for a comfortable stride up or down the steps. Anything less than 17” or more than 19” will be difficult and dangerous to use for kids, elderly, or anyone with physical limitations. To pass inspection they need to fall in this range as well. That’s why you might notice some steps with short risers will have much wider treads. Good luck with your future projects!

The 10" number works good for your 5/4 board. If you have two 5.5" boards that makes it 11" giving you one inch for the nosing.

For an unlimited run, multiply the riser height by two. 2x7=14. Subtract 14 from 25 which = 11. The simple formula to determine the safest rise and run for each step is two times the rise plus the run to equal 25. To determine the number of steps, always divide the height by 7. 42 / 7 = 6 steps. The rise is always determined first. Hope this is helpful.

Yep glad it was a help

Just to have a nice wide step and using 5/4 decking it worked out as a nice number as well.

10” is the standard run for stringers

Usually the run for a step is determined by multiplying the riser height by 2 and then subtract that total from the #25 or #24. Each step should have a 1" overhang (nose) extending past the riser.

Also don't change position He did great in the video Cut all one direction first

I always like to leave a very faint line, especially on wet lumber, so if someone else is cutting, they gotta play the guessing game.....

@@maritimelogger1296 That's the reason I was taught to use a nail until the saw man started complaining, then I started using a railroad spike.

Hope it helps out on your next deck

...for safety and old people's knees!

@@choimdachoim9491 I made 3 1/2" door steps for my 94 year old mother. Next it will have to be a ramp.

@@simpleman283 Lucky Mom. Good Son.

@@simpleman283 God bless you for taking care of your mother

Sigh...7 and 11. That's 18 bozo..

I am glad it was of help.

Yep Sir you dumbed it down for sure and don’t tell anyone, but I’m a math teacher and I needed a special ed teacher for this one…my goodness! No one started at the beginning! I just didn’t know how to get started from the first cut.

@@KymTube yes sir KISS is the simplest method. Glad it helped

Thank you👌

Why someone always complaining!

I can hear him fine. Turn up your hearing aid

Good luck and glad it has helped.

@Hello Neil how are you doing

Exactly ! I remember years ago I had a way to layout and cut a radius UNTIL , I worked with another carpenter who I watched layout his radius , then cut it . Faster , then the way I did mine . I am retired now , but was always open to learn especially when someone had a better mousetrap .

Most common. Old people have a hard time with a 7 " riser so for them I go with a 6 .

Nice to see someone sticking to the old rule of thumb that 2 times the rise plus the run should total 25 to maintain a safe step under the NBC.

@@charliepatterson9321 Which in essence can and will create more steps. But I have done the same, even 5" steps.

@@davidmackay2353 yes sir . Old tymers with bad knees don't mind a 5" step either .

Hope it helps thanks for watching!!

No prob glad it was a help

No problem glad it helped

Hope it helps. Thanks for watching!!

Hope it works well for you

Hope it helps thanks for watching!!

Glad it helped

Yes no prob hope I can be of help

Hope it helps

👍 thanks for watching

Yes thatbis correct on the landing. Mine was level but you do need the measurement where you landing is going to be. Thanks for watching

Thanks glad it helped