Love it!

Awesome! If you need help holler!

Awesome, glad to help. I would love to fix it on the route, but will have to settle with doing helping remotely for now!

Glad to help in a small way!

Thanks for the kind words!

Just start your burnout in 3rd if you have a manual V.B.

The burn out caused it.

Thanks!

Just do your burnout in 3rd. That's what I do..

Well, I started disassembly. Got down to the center support... as I was loosening the support bolt, could finally turn the output easily.... So, how do I prevent this problem from happening again as I go back together?

Be sure to jack up on the output shaft when checking the front end play. If you have done that choose what gets you close to .002-.005 looser than the rear .

Stock pump, modified.

I use a JW Ultrabell behind my 1000 h.p. big block. I have a 6-Bolt case which did have the boss behind one of the pump holed, which I drilled and tapped, so now it's a 7 bolt. No issues with the setup.

Welcome! And Thanks!!

Those are a fine choice, I have used some. I take many transmissions apart with them and they seem to last.

Would you recommend anything different.

Thankyou for the quick reply

@@drjf1 Any good quality clutch is fine. I have only tried one set of blue clutches, expensive. They left in a transmission and I don’t expect it will be back. I use middle of the road Alto and Borg Warner green clutches.

Glad to be along for the ride!!

In the TH400 playlist on my channel page I have some street stuff. Need to do more!

Even in stock form the TH400 is stout.

No problem, turn it up!

A nice transmission inside in the Jags. Any quality rebuild kit.

@@mountainsgarage whats inside that Jaguar th400 that makes them different?

Do you have a screen type filter?

@@mountainsgarage Why would that make a difference ? Just curious because I have the same issue and just changed fluid and it had a screen filter. I was just wondering what difference it would make ?

Did he ever get back to you?

@@bulldogmyth6147 no. Sprag I purchased on a drum was installed backwards lol

Had my gear selections off as well with what gears it was acting up in

I had the same issue once, and it turned out that the spool valve behind the solenoid was too long and was engaging the brake all the time. Grinding about 1/4" off the solenoid side of the valve fixed the issue.

What year and transmission do you have?

1988 Chevy C3500. TH400@@mountainsgarage

I bought a torque converter for the 454 engine swap not sure if I got the right stall

Try a red stripe gas engine modulator. Around $15 bucks.

Yes.

@@funfun8095 👍👍Thank You !!

Sounds like it needs to come apart. :(

Yes

@@mountainsgarage thank you. Because my dip stick shaded area is up in the tube still. Good to know.

Many opinions on fluids. Me personally I have handled enough Type F.

Check the simple stuff, fluid, linkage. But if that checks out the damage is most likely internal and will need to be removed and overhauled. Sorry about your predicament!

And never look back!

I have not experienced any pressure related pump wear. I install many transmission brakes and many get driven on the street.

That's probably the Precision Transmission idiot from Texas. A lot of people have called him out on that! Jake at Jake's Performance has even called him out on that. Doesn't affect the pump. I know a guy with 10k miles on his, nearly all street miles.

Good idea! That is an item I think it’s silly to have an expiration date.

@@mountainsgarage It is stupid: metal doesn't have an exiration date like milk. You would think tech can inspect fasteners, check thickness, and have a nice day - just the design needs acepted certification. Now, seat belts? That is reasonable [yet annoying]- oil and dirt over time can degrade both stitching and material, and cleaning up later won't cure that.

@@flinch622 Even seat belts. Good for 5 years in a Stock Car with no windows, and they hit things! I am pro safety, but…

On it!

What tractor fluid would be best? I’ve been considering this route for a while.

@@alchampion340 I use John Deere Hy Gard. Some people use Catrol blue. Any good one will work.

I thought about that but... what about seals? Not all hydraulic fluids get along with certain materials. Have you noticed any change in stall speed?

@@flinch622 Nope.

For sure!

I believe the word sprag was in the dictionary long before Borg Warner came along. Among the group is General Motors, who regardless of style referred to either as rollers or sprags depending on the manual page. They also refer to the ramps of the roller style, also calling them teeth. Fun Fun!

@@mountainsgarage Not going to argue with you about this but I am right. I have researched this many times. I didn't just pull it out of my arse. I also have many GM manuals and a quick check in one area they describe a transmission as having a "sprag(or in the case of older models, a roller clutch)". Exact wording. Here is a quote from a bearing design firm. "Ramp & roller clutches are used for applications with low-to-medium overrunning speeds and for indexing . Sprag clutches are the choice for applications with high overrunning speeds and for backstopping . When the outer race is the driving member, this is the resultant race activity." Many more examples available by Google search. If you have the ATSG Upgate Handbook for the 700R4, check the 1982 changes. Here is what it says. "Beginning on May 3, 1982, a new forward sprag clutch entered production, replacing the forward roller clutch on all THM 700-R4 transmissions." So I repeat - a sprag is a sprag and a roller clutch is a roller clutch.

Yes!

Be kind of odd not to say anything.

With no load in the waterbox you start in second and shift to third then drive out to avoid damage. There is a load with minimal spin off the starting line. It is the No load free spin that hurts the transmission on a 1-2 shift.

Why don't you look up transmissions for idiots first?