Glad it was helpful!

The magnets were shipped to the Philippines along with the shaft, bearings, and oil seals. I will get the magnet wire in the Philippines. I shipped a 3 phase controller as well, so most everything is there but the pandemic has us in the US. Our build crew is getting ready to do the concrete work for the 24 ground mount solar panel array so some progress is going on. We mounted the retaining flange for the whole house fan to the ceiling spider beam with 20 5/8" stainless rods about 36 " long through the roof. These same bolts mount the VAWT so a little progress there as well. This week we are slip forming some non load bearing concrete divider walls for the 7 bathrooms of the main house.

You might want to look up Lenz laws and Faraday as well as magnetic strength (Gauss) to design/predict the output for your design.

Milsim, The main difference between the alternator (AC generator) and a BLDC motor is the electronic commutation switching the coils on and off in the 6 steps it takes for rotation. Early motors and DIY projects often use 3 Hall effect sensors (likeantilock brake sensors) to determine position. However EMF flyback from the coil string that is idle is now popular. Whichever way you sense rotor position the 6 way H Bridge does the actual connections in a series of 6 steps. The best source I know of is the "Electronoobs" you-Tube channel. He has an Arduino bacsed BLDC controller design with schematics, parts list, and the Arduino code. He also builds motors.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 I can not thank you enough for this. Very grateful for this information. Figuring out how to time this has been a nightmare and resources are scarce. This made my day!

My pleasure

I started with drawing out full scale magnets set in a diameter that filled the available space. Large diameters make more speed, faster flux changes, and more power for a given size of magnet. Then drawing in coils around the magnets. The number of coils may need changed but it is in steps of 3 since coils have to divide by three. Then work on wire size starting with your operating voltage which would be 12, 24, or 48 since that is what batteries are manufactured to. Add a little voltage to ensure full charging but not so much that you risk wrecking the batteries. Wire size is next starting with 18 guage plus a couple sizes larger or smaller. The operating voltage divided by the amp capacities of different guages gives the needed resistance. Back to the wire chart for the resistance of the selected wire options. Divide the needed resistance by the resistance per length to see what length of wire is needed for 1/3 of the total coils which will be wired in series. If you can't get enough wire on the coils they can be made longer towards the OD, and wrap one layer on what you have reserved for the magnet size since the magnets are not actually in the coils but on the rotor plates. Finally figure what magnet count divisible by 2 is close to but not equal to the coil count. Amps X Amps X Resistance is the maximum watts of power which you convert to torque for required turbine sizing.

Are you refering to my least viewed channel on KZfaq title.

I actually got the idea from a video on the perpetual motion "Moller" machine. The video got most everything wrong and did not discover that hysteresis in the coils and inrush currents were major drivers as was the current reversal at the zero crossing points. The visual aid did however result in this idea. If the coils were 2 less than the magnets then arranging the coils as two 180 degree generators eliminated some coils canceling output on others which is a major reason why store bought wind turbines actually only make about 55% of rated output.

I don't know of any book good or bad on this subject. Just to limited an audience to justify the time needed to write it. Also there doesn't seem to be published data on the gauss of the magnets from the manufacturers. As a builder we can figure wire size, length, and voltage, however the wattage output comes back to gauss.

Hugh Piggott sells recipe books for building axial flux alternators for various sizes of small wind turbines. He includes an example which he works through the maths off too. Invaluable publication if you're going down the route of building your own. I also don't understand how the design detailed in this video works - I specifically fail to see how it is a 3 phase machine.

@fi4258 Wiring in parallel will decrease the voltage output but increase the current output by the amount of parallel wires. So using 3 wires in parallel means that these 3 seperate coils will produce 1/3 of the voltage of if you would have used 1 coil. Now connecting these in parallel means that the voltage will remain the same 1/3, but the current will be multiplied by 3. You would have to spin the turbine faster for the same voltage output, but current is already higher. This will increase losses, or if you increase the size of the wire, it will increase the cost.

Also, Halbach arrays are interesting.

Well the number of coils would be either 15 or 18 to be devisable by 3 and resistance needed would be 24V/35A or .686 ohms. 6 is a lot of conductors. at 15 amps for #14 wire the next higher capacity is 3 wires. With 18 coils there are 18/3 or 6 coils in series, with the resistance per 6 coils in series being . 1/ .686 = 3(1/ ohms per strand). Divide ohms/strand by the resistance of your magnet wire to see how many feet of wire you need for each of the three strands. Wind a coil as thin as practical and see what diameter circle is needed for the coils to be just clear of each other. The center of the coil is the same width as the magnet (25mm) and the length can be longer than the 50mm if you need to use up more magnet wire to make the resistance value. A larger diameter makes more magnet speed across the coils and therefore higher voltage. 24 X 35 = 840 watts net average output. Just a guess would be 6 blades at 8 foot rotor diameter but can be calculated for maximum available power in your wind conditions. Flat blades with reasonable angle of attack, or airfoil shaped with a profile from Airfoil tools.com is a starting point.

This would be 4 coils in series per phase. 24v/10 amps = 2.4 ohms resistance. The magnet wire must be rated 10 amps or higher. Pick a wire guage for the 10 amps and see how many feet is required for the 4 coil series and divide by the 4 coils to see how many feet per coil. 24 X 10 watts is not a problem providing the magnet strength is available and the air gap is as small as practical. Using dual magnet rotors with the stator coils between them multiplies the available gauss from your magnets. I like to start with the magnets and see what I can fit into the available space. Remember that the magnet count must divide by two and the coils divisable by three. Also they can not be equal in number due to cogging forces making it difficult to start turning. The change in magnetic flux is what generates the current in the coils with the current changing polarity after the coil and magnet are centered on each other. This is the zero crossing point which is not all that critical on a generator but is used for timing the commutation if running as a motor. Use google images to find a chart of magnet wire resistance per 100 feet. You would be looking at 2.4 ohms/300 feet or .8 ohms per 100 feet in your example. Then check if that guage is good for the 10 amps. Being that the air cooling of a coil is limited due to the tight winding you may need to increase the guage of the wire.

The wire size is easy. Just look in a magnet wire catalog for the AWG wire size that is rated more than 12 amps something like 16 amps at 160 degrees F. Wire potted in epoxie runs hotter because the heat is trapped. You realize that 14 X 12 is 168 watts I hope. Second part Voltage = Current times Resistance or with a little algebra Voltage/Current = resistance. I asked my Rotweiler and he assures me that is correct and I never argue with him. So in your magnet wire catalog listing there is a column for resistance per 1000 feet of wire. So....14/12 = 1.1667 Ohms of resistance. If you had 2 ohms per 1000 feet then 1.1667/2 = 583 feet. A 12 coil stator has 12/3 or 4 coils per phase, so 583/4 = 146 feet 9 inches per coil. Smaller wire has higher resistance which drives the length of the winding down. Higher RPM drives the voltage up. This gets related to magnet flux which increases current with higher flux. So.... get the strongest magnets you can crowd into your generator and start spinning it up with a wide air gap like .187 inches. If your amps are not up to wire capacity lower the air gap for more amps. Stop if you are at .032 inch gap and rewrite the generator specifications. Not sure what 168 amps would run except 34 five watt LED lights.

DAMON, TRANSFORMERS WORK BY CREATING A CURRENT DUE TO THE CHANGE IN MAGNETIC FLUX. THE ALTERNATOR MAKES AC CURRENT AND THEREFORE WOULD SHOW A CHANGE IN FLUX AT A TRANSFORMER, HOWEVER THERE ARE 3 AC OUTPUTS NOT IN EXACT PHASE WITH EACH OTHER AND THEN THE OUTPUT OF THREE TRANSFORMERS HAS TO BE CONNECTED INTO A SINGLE PHASE AC OUTPUT. THE NORMAL WAY IS TURNING THE 3 PHASE OUTPUTS INTO A DC CURRENT TO CHARGE A STORAGE DEVICE/BUFFER. THEN DRAW FROM THE STORAGE DEVICE TO AN INVERTER THAT OUTPUTS WHATEVER VOLTAGE AND CYCLES YOU BOUGHT IT TO DO. FOR EXAMPLE IN THE PHILIPPINES CHARGE 24 VOLT BATTERIES AND MAKE 220 VOLT OUTPUT FOR A HOUSE. THE CAPACITORS IN THE INVERTER ARE WHAT CHANGES THE VOLTAGE, AND A TIMER SWITCHES THE AC SIGNAL PLUS OR MINUS. SO ALTERNATOR-3PHASE RECTIFIER-CHARGE CONTROLLER-BATTERY-INVERTER- TO LOAD. THERE ARE MCCP CONTROLLERS THAT COMBINE SEVERAL STEPS. IN GENERAL HIGHER VOLTAGE IS ALWAYS BETTER FOR EFFICIENCY AND REDUCING WIRE AWG SIZE. MORE TURNS OF A SMALLER WIRE IN THE GENERATOR WILL MAKE HIGHER VOLTAGE BUT IN THE END YOU ARE DEALING WITH WATTS WHICH IS VOLTS TIMES AMPS. FOR A GIVEN RPM AND MAGNETIC FLUX THE WATTS ARE THE SAME.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 so would I be better off letting the blades spin super fast, or after putting a load on it, let them spin slower? I guess for the sake of bearing preservation and centripetal force, lower rpm would be better. Thank you for your video.

Efficiency goes down with increased coil gap. It might be helpful to visualize the gap increasing progressively to an extreme like a 2 meter gap at which point there would be no output at all. Blade efficiency depends on airfoil shape and angle of attack on the blades and the area of the wind intercepted. There is a global wind energy site of energy per day at your proposed longitude and latitude. Also elevation is very important. This graphic output will help you size the needed disk area of the blades. search "Global Wind Atlas" There are half a dozen videos on this channel on sizing various components. To calculate magnet flux density you can get a spread sheet calculator at "www.supermagnete.com/FAQ/FLUX" specify advanced and English. Start with the required output watts, Find the blade area to size the length, width, and number of blades. Then decide on an output voltage or battery storage voltage. Calculate amps using V = I X R, Wire size from the amps, total wire length from total resistancedivided by resistance per unit length of the magnet wire. Remember the coils are in series and the resistance is for 2/3 of the total coils in series. There are several forums/groups dedicated to alternative energy that may be helpful. I would start with the global wind atlas site to see if your site and mounting height will generate your design wattage.

Thank you for replying. If you were to increase the gap to 2m and generated no energy the only power you would have to put in is to overcome the friction in the bearings to spin the shaft. This is what I’m struggling to understand, by decreasing the gap you would get possibly more volts and possibly current out. But would the shaft not become harder to turn? Are you increasing efficiency (input power to output power) or are you increasing output but at the cost of more energy in?

The 3 output wires are connected to a 3 phase rectifier which outputs a single DC voltage. The DC goes to a charge controller to charge batteries. If the rectifier DC voltage is lower than the battery voltage they won't charge so an inverter is between the rectifier and batteries. This an be a combined unit inverter with the charge controller and an AC output of 110 or 220 V and a state of batery charge indicator. Those by MCCP also combine solar panel and wind generated power. The low cost solution is rectifier to lead acid batteries with a zeiner diode to a dump load for overcharge prevention. If the voltage is low put a transformer in front of the zeiner diode. If the turbine won't self start a cut in voltage closes the running unloaded alternator. I would think an IGBT setable with a resister between gate and ground could work. One IGBT on each output with increasing voltage cutins so low wind conditions would turn onone or two phases and let the alternator keep turning. IGBT stands for INTERNAL GATE BIASED TRANSISTER which senses gate voltage but doesn't draw much power to operate. The dog approved this draft but he is an illiterate. There is a yahoo group on facebook called DIY Wind Turbine Makers you might find interesting but they don't have my dog for referrence material.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 by "inverter" you mean Boost converter (DC)

Thomas, The inside center hole of the coil is the shape and size of the magnet. Since there are radiuses on the corners, the start of the radius is the end of the magnet and the wire on the short faces will be one radius beyond the edge of the magnet. The part if the coil that is parallel to the side of the magnet can be longer within reason to consume more wire and therefore resistance of the coil. The outside dimensions of the coil should be clear of the next coil by about 3mm. If you need more wire extend the ends what you can. Also this will make the coil flatter for less gap between the magnet faces and improved efficiency by increasing magnet gauss.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 Thank you for the response.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 One last question, are there ways/concepts to determine the ideal thickness of the coil or determine the maximum size the coil can be?

@@thomasdonn4821 dude literally everything you are asking was covered in the video itself. it annoys me so much when a KZfaqr makes a very in depth video about a topic and provides as much info as humanly possible, and then some person comes along and asks questions about stuff that have been answered in the very video you are commenting on.

People miss stuff or misinterprete the words and wish too talk too and clarify a specific question with the maker off the video who clearerly was happy too reply and wants people too reply due too the fact he has a KZfaq channel and commenting and replying is kinda the whole point off setting up a channel so why that bothers you bothers me 😂😂

Tom, All the red coils are connected end to end (in series) so there is one sign wave for that phase. The other coil sets are also in series and output the same waveform but offset by 1/3 the frequency time wise, so while being the same they are offset timewise.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 the some waves of the red coils are not in phase though! If you graph coil 1 and, say, coil 13 their outputs will look totally different so wiring them in series will cause negative interference. If the coils outputs were in phase (i.e. all saw the same flux at the same instant) I'd agree with you but they (the red coils) are seeing very different fluxes so I can't see how they are in phase. Wiring them in series doesn't magically mean they're in phase!

Who says old people have no sense of humor

Edwin, Not necessairly a program. How about a few examples of how I come up with calculating things. I use CAD systems (computer aided design) and preffer Rhino 3D although I have Autocad 14 and an older version of Solidworks. Calculations about weight volume center of gravity can be measured from 3D models of the projects, particularly when the model is a lot of compound curves drawn with 4th degree nurbs curves. However for the BLDC motors and generators I use simple arithmetic and a little algebra as was taught in high school and windows calculator. Some common formulas as can be found in Wikipedia such as Volts = Current X Resistance is used to size magnet wire. The sales literature lists about 40 copper wire guages and the resistance per meter or by 1000 fet of length. I cram as many turns as the space permits times the length per turn to get the feet per coil and multiply by the number of coils in series. The length times the resistance value gives total resistance. Devide your preferred voltage by the resistance an you have steady state amps. Then back to the manufacturers literature to see what wire guage will carry that amp load. If necessary the next step is likely a pulse width voltage devider chip. For aircraft structures a text of applied mechanics has formulas for analyzing trusses and beams, For that start with buckling failure because it drives the sizing. For wings having composite construction calculate the second moment or inertia and plug in stress and strain to determine material cross section. High school level moment (torque calculations) will also get you there and if you are talking sizing concrete columns and beams or floor slabs that is based on balancing the surface tension of a strip of material times its distance from the mass center compared to rebar cross section from the same center of mass. Safety factors are the overdesign of something to insure safe use for construction flaws or damage during use. For light single engine aircraft 3.8 times the calculated load, commercial jets are 2.2 times the load, aerobatic planes I use 12 G posative and 6 G negative. House slabs are 1.5 times calculated dead load with a live load of 50 pounds per square foot as an absolute minimum. The BLDC coil and magnet count comes from labeling everything positive or negative polarity in a drawing and rotating one against the other to see that positives versus negatives are attracting and 2 like polarities are repelling each other through the 6 steps before the whole thing repeats. Anything trying to turn the parts opposite the rotation is basically canceling out one of the sets working in the correct direction and therefore using current and making less power. Mechanical hardware such as ball, needle, tapered roller bearings, spherical bearings, or journal bearings come from the Timken bearing catalog considering the makimum RPM and the axial and radial loads for a given shaft size. Calculating multi story building starts at the roof base to see what columns and beam sizes are needed. Then add the top floor walls floor slab, ceiling slab, permanently installed "stuff" and the 50 pounds per square foot to get the columns and beams fro the next floor down. Work your way down till you get to the foundation and devide total weight by soil bearing to figure foundation contact area. All weights are multiplied by 1.5 safety margin as you go and some token number like 200 pounds for wire and plumbing stuff. If this is not helpful possibly a more specific question because I have been designing for 68 years and may have done something similar. george and aurora

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 thank you

Am gonna use 1 ball of a bearing at each end for less friction on the mill and a magnet clutch to bring higher speeds to the generator.With enough distance so they don't disturb the field.

No, however most car alternators are in runners with the magnets arranged like interloching fingers which would be hard to replace. More magnetic flux from stronger magnets would boost the output amps. The voltage is in relation to the RPM you spin it. In the car there are built in voltage regulators that restrict the voltage for battery charging. Also mail order houses sell new or more commonly rewound stators for the Delco alternators that output up to 120 amps with a stock rotor. So a lot of potential to abuse the delco alternators.

The electricity generated is watts = volts times amps. To get more volts with other factors held the same you need more turns of wire. If your amps are also low then the wire guage can be smaller. Google ampacity of magnet wire chart in google images. Remember the epoxie potting traps heat so be conservative. So like 25% more capacity. Read the amps (wire in series with the coil), and volts which are wired in parallel of each phase to see if they are the same and all generating. If you disconnect one output wire does the RPM jump up and make more volts on the other phases? 56 magnets divide by two but must alternate north and south faces toward the coils to make alternating current. The magnet approaches a coil and makes voltage of say positive polarity, drops to 0 when centered and makes the opposite polarity passing the other half of the coil. The coil to magnet face clearance is CRITICAL because magnet gauss drops off exponentially and so does your output wattage. Supermagnete_flux_density_eng Will show flux density (gauss) of the magnets according to your perameters. Supermagnete.com is the site and the spreadsheet is hard to locate but in the upper left corner of the page there is a link. You will need average wind velocity from Global wind atlas and Wind Turbine Calculator [HAWT and VAWT] To see what you can generate. Have you got the winding direction of the coils alternating clockwise and counterclockwise and of course switching the leads reverses that. Can you change drive speed with belt ratios or is it a direct mount on the shaft.

Sean, First determine the wire guage by it's resistance value. The center hole width is the width of the magnet, The length is magnet length plus 2 minimum bend radiuses. Sketch out the coils and leave 1/8 inch between them at the inner ends, This width divived by the diameter of the enamel coated magnet wire gives the wraps wound per layer. Measure your drawing to get the average length of a wrap. Then the wire required for your resistance value is divided among 2/3 of your total coil count. This length divided by the wire used for the bottom layer determines how many layers to wind. Keep the coils as thin as you can. The coil thickness plus the running clearances to the magnet rotors needs to be as small as practical to more effectively use the magnet gauss. The 2/3 coil count is because at any instance two phases of coils are in series. There are 6 steps of rotation and then it repeats.

Rioderixxx, Draw a triangle with 7 coils on each side. Your 3 phase connections are at the three triangle verticies and there would be 70v between any two of the verticies. This is DELTA connected. For WYE connected you have a center point with three lanes radiating out with a120 degree included angle. There are 7 coils along each line.The three line ends are the connection points with 70v between any two of them. Between the center point and any end point there is 35 volts. Your alternator has different voltage peaks on each individual coil so at any instant you are looking at something in mathematical term is similar to the "root mean square" voltage of all the coils on a phase. This occurs due to there being more magnets than coils to reduce cogging. Design for 30% more voltage and tune it exactly with your rotor to coil air gap. yes to 10 volts per coil times 7 coils would be 70 volts. With 30 % added for the magnets centering on the coils about 3 degrees apart the 30 % would be designed to 13 V output per coil. Put one of your coils on a plywood disk at their running diameter. Mount that on a 3/8" variable speed drill. Measure speed with a strobe tach. Wind a coil and mount it near the disk. Put a diode on one of the coil ends and connect a voltmeter to the leads. The diode will read either magnet coming to cemter or magnet past center. The actual voltage goes from posative to negative at centered alignment (ZERO CROSSING POINT) The voltmeter needle is to slow to read on the fly but will stabalize with the diode after a few revolutions. Vary the air gap to understand the sensitivity. Vary the drill speed to understand the importance of magnet velocity. Wear a lab coat and heavy framed glasses, and never smile, but yelling EUREKA is allowed.

Well 83 KW is a huge motor. At 750 watts per HP that is 111 horsepower. Sounds like you are doing an outrunner motor. So one magnet per slot would be 22 magnets. 18 stator slots......Well an outrunner would have a steel core inside a coil to align the windings with the magnetic flux of the rotor magnets, usually magnetized with the north and south poles on the magnet faces. Stator implies at least to me something with coils rather than a laminated armature of an induction motor. 18 coils divides into three strings of 6 coils each for a 3 phase motor. Those strings are used two at a time in series so you have 12 coils to make your resistance value. If we do a first case analysis for a 380V motor. 83000w/380 = 218 amps. (V=IR and w = IV) That would be a pair of AWG 2.0 cables equivalent. Seems impossible to build, however, stacking 12 stators and rotor sets gets it down to 18 amps. Approximately 3 feet in diameter and a stack height of 5 feet . Choose your wire size by the amps. For example 6 wires of 3 amp capacity would make 18 amps. Smaller wire diameter like 1 amp capacity would be 18 strands in parallel. smaller wire also results in more turns of winding and therefore higher operating voltage for a given RPM. Due to the mechanical forces involved this would likely be operating under 3000RPM OH, coil count is 18 X 12 = 216 coils. Using a much higher voltage everything gets smaller. Think TESLA sports car motor. 700HP water cooled with a lot of MOSFETS handling huge amps. That motor could fit in an 18" cube. Hey I AM OUT OF BEER.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 Thank you for your detailed Explaination. Sir If you don't mind could you please share your email id I have few more doubts which I have to ask.

they should not be equal in number because a condition called "cogging" occurs when all the magnets pass the zero crossing point (become centered on the coils) at the same time. a motor runs rough and a generator will require a LOT of torque to start rotating. There some ratios like 9 to 14 that are popular. I have 30 coils to 32 magnets. Generally you would set the inside of the coil dimensions to the magnet dimensions and the outside dimensions of the coil as needed to get enough OHMS to get the voltageyou are designing for. Then pack the coils into the tightest circular shape practical. The coil centers determine the radius of the magnet circle. you will find making the OHMs length the hard part because you have seen advertising literature with grosely over estimated power output. I actually made this video because I figured out a trick that has all the coils generating in the same direction on each phase rather than some canciling out others in the series wired coils. It is on a video showing the magnets passing the coils arranged so whether they are pushing or pulling the rotation is in the same direction for all the coils.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 that if there is any movment but if the magnets replaced by electromagnets then they could be equal

I converted to Rhino 3D from Autocad because it does compound curves. I don't have a rendering addition with this 2012 version. The software is from McNeil. They also have "grasshopper" and Penguin" to do other CAD work like animation which mine doesn't do. I use Meshcam to create G-Code files for the CNC machine tools to make metal casting patterns.

OK, Generally speaking the inverter wants to convert a DC voltage to AC at 50 or 60 cycles/sec. A solar panel for instance is a DC output that charges something like batteries through a charge controller module. It is more complicated with a 3 phase system. The three phases are continually changing from positive to negative voltage which repeat the pattern every 6 steps. First thing off your 3 phase alternator is a 3 phase rectifier that outputs a DC voltage. If you don't have enough voltage to charge the battery, like 10% more than battery voltage then capacitors first. There is a KZfaq channel called "electronoobs" that may be helpful. As a test connect up only one phase leaving the other two open circuit and see if you see 700w also try the other phases one at a time. If the output is still very low then your inverter may not accept an AC input. In that case you need a rectifier. for the test a wheatstone bridge either bought or made from 4 diodes will show what a phase is actually producing. At that point a 3 phase rectifier is what you are looking for to make a DC voltage for the inverter input. Store advertising "Green Energy" sell those items or either Amazon or E-Bay if they are available in your country. How about a block diagram of the components to generate usable power for your house. ALTERNATOR_3PH RECTIFIER_CHARGE CONTROLLER_BATTERY STORAGE_OUTPUT INVERTER Now some of these functions may be combined into a single device with brands like MCCP. There are Yahoo groups specializing in power generation from wind or solar. Now I graduated from engineering school in 1970 and have some idea how to build near anything, but today an evening of internet research can get you going in the right direction. When PC first became available I read a lot of advertising literature describing how their product had a better part here or there and made a list. I bought a set of parts like 4 hard drives tape drives, disk drives, some 2ns ram and a copy of windows 3.1 with DOS 6.2 and plugged it all up in the case. It all worked when I powered it up. Still have it. That one is a single overclocked AMD 486 processor with an intel chipset and all SCSI drives.

Rioderixxx, Well if it grid tie then it is surely a single phase inverter. It is likely 50 cycle power. Use an ohm meter on the outputs to find out if one is a ground. The inputs you indicate are DC 45 to 90v, so only 2 wires for DC and the third would be a ground of the inverter. So the next thing is getting DC for the inverter input. The DC would be from a 3 phase inverter. 3 wires in 2 wires out and the common connection point of your WYE connected stator to the ground on the inverter ground lug. The AC of your stator is just looking at it with 21 coils and 56 magnets very complicated. The magnets need to alternate north and south to produce the AC part of the output. Second a north magnet aproaching a south coil should attract each other and a north magnet should repel a north polarity coil. The coil polarity can be switched by switching the connection leads on that coil. Test the magnets by holding another magnet over each one on the rotor and mark them N or S on the face that is up. The coils will need a small DC voltage on the leads like a 1-1/2 volt battery. Hold your test magnet over each coil and mark each coil with the same N or S you used sorting the magnets. Pick a starting point with a magnet centered in a coil. Rotate the magnet disk 1/4 of a coil diameter and record which ones are attracting or repelling so as to turn the rotor clockwise. on the same line enter each coil trying to rotate the rotor disk counterclockwise. Count the ones advancing the rotor and the ones holding it back. if you have 11 advancing and 9 retarding the rotor then 9 of each cancel out each other leaving 2 to produce power. Next check 3 consecutive magnets and record the results. Part 3 tag all the coils opposing rotation with an opposite winding connection which should make close to 19 coils helping and 2 opposing. Rotate the rotor in 1/4 turn increments until centered on the next coil from where you started to see if it is consistent with the coil polarities switched. Test with 3 consecutive magnets. If you can't get a good percentage of net output coils you will need to wind 54 smaller coils with the inside dimensions of the magnet and the outside so that the coils have a gap between their edges. This assumes you have a pancake or axial flux alternator. If you have an outrunner configuration like an RC model motor then you need iron cores in your coils.

The wire is "magnet wire" which has an enamel or varnish coating and is electrically insulated by the coating. To make a connection the coating must be scraped or burnt off.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 thank you for replying...i thought it is pure open Copper coil... which pass electricity directly....bec i.am chartered accountant 😉... trying new things in life from new peoples...🙏😊😇

I use Rhino 3D from Mcneil software. Originally purchased to make nurbs curve surfaces while designing an aeroplane, but now used for everything. It is a one time buy commercial license installed on 3 computers. I also have Autocad14 which doesn't loft curved surfaces, and Solid Works which is not used because of the high anual cost, and additional anual costs for CFD and G-code add ons.I use meshcam for the G-code on our CAM machine tools running under NC Studio. The software lets me put things on paper that are dimensionally accurate, but it is a design aid. You still have to the research and design the projects. I design in inches then make a copy of the drawing or a detailed section then scale 3D to change everything to centimeters. Also handy are the analysis tools for calculating concrete volumes in a building centroid of an airplane design, surface area to be painted. I use about 10% of the commands available in the software, but there are prompts of what to enter when using some of the unfamiliar commands.

​@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 One doesn't see very often, a person with such skill AND Equipment ~ go beyond ** I use Rhino 3D from Mcneil software. I commend you Sir. Now that said ~ Could I perhaps interest YOU Specifically in a *mutual* project, one that will require that YOU Specifically do all the work? ME ?~ If you can see mutual ~ then you will know. Unfettered access, what else? SO WHAT ? Use your software to create ( actual measurements ) a complete set of 3D models of both NeoDynium and standard Magnets. ( not difficult ~ most are of a standard size, cube, round, rectangle, disk etc, etc . The hard work is applying ( via your software ) a *TRUE* representation of the magnetic field size, orientation etc, etc. THEN: Create a set of coils, as you have here ~ BUT in 3D and then ALSO in 3D **** arrange your magnetic array **** also in 3D into 1 cohesive whole. AIM / Purpose ? SHOW~ in 3D real time (amongst others) the rise AND fall of the magnetic field/s: * generated * in the coils *as a result*.

Sounds like the wind power to the generator is too low. Is it horizontal axis like a wind farm, or vertical axis like a savolis turbine. There are apps that display annual average wind speed by GPS coordinates, and apps that calculate the Kw available from that wind. The blade disk area, angle of attack of the blades, airfoil or flat blades are all perameters that can be modified. If you need to get the generator turning you can unload the drive power by increasing the running clearance between the stator and rotor disks. It will reduce output but may allow it to spin up for a better idea of where the problems are. I am using booster guides mounted rigidly around a vertical axis 24 blade turbine. The turbine is 6 feet diameter and 8 feet tall. You should have a charge controller that lets the turbine spin up to a settable "cut in" voltage that then connects the load. Often there are cut in voltages in increasing steps for each phase of the alternator. Have you considered making a DETAILED KZfaq video of what you have assembled outlining what is not working. Title it something like how I built a wind turbine power drive for a 1.5 kw motor with an MCCP inverter. Turn on the english subtitles when you upload it or type text overlay on the video.

Some useful APPS Wind turbine calculator [HAWT and VAWT]_files Global wind atlas.com

I believe, What he means by 6 conductors is, he has 6 strands of 18 gauge wire in parallel in the winding. i.e 2.3 amps x 6 conductors = 13.8 amps.. you increase current carrying capacity by wiring wire strands in parallel

All the red coils are wired in series and are 1 of the three phases. The other colors also wired in series are the other two phases.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 how are they in phase? Are the outputs of the red coils all simultaneously zero?

Its difficult, I'm looking for the math for this myself. The basic principle is this. 1. As the magnet passes over a coil it will induce a voltage. The problem is that rotor speed will change this voltage proportionally. As will your number of windings and wire thickness in each coil (not to mention the field strength of your magnets and orientation). So you need to start off with a basic Idea on the average wind speed and thus (calculated/tested) rotation speed of your mill to decide on the your coil design. Normally each coil will produce a small nominal voltage, lets just say 2Vac per coil (based on your ideal wind/mill rotation speed, coil number and wire thickness). So for each phase will need 6 coils (wired in series) to make 12v, or 12 coils to make 24v. In a weird way its like sticking batteries together. 2. Now you have guessed the floor in this grand plan. Wind is variable. So higher wind speed will cause over voltage and you need to sort this out by having a dump load after you have converted the 3phase AC to DC. If your mill isnt spinning fast enough, you simply wont make any usable power because the voltage needs to be higher than your batteries. Else without blocking diodes you will have a motor rather than a generator. (I'm not sure how you deal with under voltage, running the mill open circuit could make it spin to fast so maby you just waste it in the dump load or you use a clever electronic device like a switch mode power supply to up the voltage so you at least have a trickle charger. 3. Load. Another tricky beast is when you introduce load. Now to some extent your battery will take care of this rather than labouring the mill. But in principle, the greater the current draw on your system, the harder it will be for your mill to turn. So your mill speed slows down and might even drop below your nominal voltage which really throws out your average rotation speed you started with to design your generator. Having a battery helps minimise spikes and should simplify the math by having a set working voltage. For a 12V battery say, the battery might be between 10.5Vdc up to 15Vdc fully charged. Obviously this means if the battery is low at 10.5Vdc, you will be drawing max current from the mill and if the battery is at 15Vdc then you wont be drawing any current as its full. That is untill you turn on a load and you get a balance where ideally your battery stays fully charged and your mill is supplying the current being drawn from the battery by topping it up at the same rate of discharge. As you can now tell, there are many considerations when designing a generator and I certainly dont know all the answers which is why I'm watching videos. CONCRETE HOUSE BUILDING IN PH does seem to know his stuff, he's just not very good at communicating it. What we really need is to find out where he learned his stuff and go straight to source. Thus far I havnt found a nice step by step work through of the maths for system design.

I am a graduate of the University of Pittsburgh School of Engineering class of 1970 with 173 credit hours of which 135 are engineering classes. I did masters degree classes but not for a degree. The relevant equation is V=IR meaning voltage is the product of current times resistance. The factors you can control are resistance and indirectly current thru the geometry (diameter of coil set which is also the diameter of the center position of the magnets), and magnetic field strength (gauss) passing thru the coils. The field strength increases if the magnets alternate north and south as the field connects through the metal they are epoxied on to. Thus magnet count must be devisable by 2. the number of stator coils is devisable by 3 with a set of 1/3 of the total coil count in series. If I have 30 coils every third coil around the ring is in series for 10 coil sets. Two sets are in series at any given instant with the third set open. So, 10 coils in series with another 10 coils makes a path of 20 coils in series. if each coil is making 2 volts that would be 20X2 or 40 volts. Factor two is that with multiple wraps of wire in each coil they are simplistically a group of single paths all in series. The magnetic field works on each of the little loops which due to being in a series connection multiplys the voltage output of the coil. The magnetic field seperation distance to the stator coil (less than 1/8") is from a circular field of a rotor magnet going from one rotor to an OPPOSITE polarity magnet on the directly opposing disk, along the metal disk to the next magnet which is opposite polarity, then back thru the stator which is again oppopsite polarity and thru the rotor plate to the original starting point. As the first set of magnets passes the first side of the coil it induces a current in the winding. The current is determined by the right hand rule, defined by pointing your thumb (the big finger) along the wire and curling your fingers which are then in the direction of the magnetic flux, current flows from negative to posative. Then as rotation of the disk continues the field intersects the windings on the second side of the coil which with the coil winding being circular and the right hand thumb now pointing down is additive. As an inconvienance we have the coil count and magnet count not equal, and either one can be a higher count. This prevents all the forces lining up at the same time and makes continued rotation lumpy at best. For a stepper motor everything lines up making it hard to rotate until the polarity changes as different sets of coils go on and off. In the generator (actually an alternator) the magnets rotational seperation increases (or decreases) as the coils are seen to be getting furthur apart. Since the group are all in series some are opposite polarity with the magnets and attract each other and some are the same polarity repelling each other. Therefore a coil may be cancelling current flow through the series connection reducing output and voltage. I solved this by having two stater coil pairs 180 degrees apart with the same winding direction and having the coil to magnet count differ by only 2. therefore making two 180 degree motors and everything producing in the same direction. The connection of a set of 10 coils being connected to another set of opposite winding direction makes all the current flow in the same direction and all the average voltages cumulative. The next formula I can't explain in simple english arithmetic because it involves calculus. Adding to the type of math is a variable which is the magnetic flux (G or Gauss) that comes from a second bit of integral calculus. The factor of G has a range dependent on magnet strength, and interaction with other magnets. Ceramic magnets being more efficient than steel magnets and lower strength than neobydneum magnets. There is also a strength range of a given material or shape of magnet. The formulas are not hard to find with Wikipedia and can be approximated by calculating with the upper value of the integral character and subtracting the value calculated from the lower integral value. The output is not a strady state number but increasing and decreasing the current producing a sine waveform output. To get what you will produce convert the sine wave to it's RMS (root mean square) value. The wire you wind with has a current limit at which temperature rise melts the varnish or epoxie and the wire burns in two. The wire has a NEMA current capacity per unit of length, sometimes per 1000 feet or 100 meters. So if you pick an operating voltage and divide that by the amp rating you have the required resistance of all the series connected coils plus any wire connecting everything. Divide this resistance by the resistance per 100 meters and you have the total length of wire. Divide the length by the number of coils in two sets and you have how much to wind on a coil. First thing you find is that there is not enough volume in a 3/4 inch thick coil and going thicker reduces your G value exponentially. So calculate with different magnet wire gauges or windings with 2 wires for double the amps. When/if you get close I have a trick. Your coils are determined by how much you can wind before they hit each other at the inboard end. You can however extend the bottom with around or V shape staying inside the available space and continue the outboard end till it hits something. 40% more wire and resistance can be achieved with this. As a note larger diameters increase efficiency and voltage thru magnet pass speed and room for larger stator coils. THANKS TO MY 11 SUBSCRIBERS FOR WATCHING THE VIDEOS

To road rash spirit. You raise voltage with an inverter. Basically you are charging capacitors with your after rectifier DC voltage. Think of capacitors as little flat batteries in series separated with mica plates. More plates is more voltage. The voltage isn't a continuous output and is more like pulses. If your wind generator is at a cut in voltage of 9 volts for example and you have a 270 volt capacitor then power is on 270/9 or 3 % of the time but other than heat nothing is lost. If your magnet wire set will stand 27 volts then you are on 270/27 or 10% of the time. Trip the capacitors and they discharge. A small inverter welder has an open circuit voltage of 60 volts and mine is rated 400 AMPS with a 60% duty cycle. While I am not about to "repurpose" my welder looking inside will show you what parts to be looking for. For small power output you can get voltage pulse width multipliers or dividers on E-bay for about $12 To divert excess power generation look at a zenir diode. Think of a zenir as a transistor with the gate wired to a resister internally. More complicated MOSFET (metal oxide field effect transistor) conducts when the field is higher voltage than the gate. Hook that to an IGBT (internal gate biased transistor) for huge current capacity. Elon Musk uses racks of MOSFETs in the Tesla cars which are well proven off the shelf stuff but I use IGBT because very light amps (heat load) and high voltage operate them. Over voltage is often associated with over speed problems. You are producing more than needed for charging so you might consider something along the lines of using a coil path as a bucking voltage to electrically brake the blade RPM. If you are WYE connected it would convert 2/3 of the power to the brake and with delta I should think of 1/3 braking power. I haven't needed a schematic for this yet so haven't drawn one but the principal is having the coil leads switched electronically to be out of phase with the permanent magnets creating maximum chaos. The electric vehicle designers use the the coils progessivly to regenerate power back to the batteries while braking and at higher pedal deflections adding in the hydraulic brakes. A magnet passing a small coil will make a pulse to start charging a capacitor. A resistor to ground will drain the capacitor until it increases voltage to trip the circuit and brakes as long as voltage is high enough to the capacitor. Transistors working at Mhz frequencies can switch everything hundreds of times a minute and a 505 solid state timer can limit how often things change from power to brake. I did do a design with a second tail set at 45 degrees to the steering tail with a heavy spring and a bellcrank linkage (for multiplying rotation degrees) which turns the rotor out of the wind progressively as a governor. I decided a boosted vertical turbine was much more efficient in that nearly all the wind hits the blades and pass through hits them again. The horizontal shaft types have a lot of space between the blades which is lost energy and needs higher wind to begin turning. The farm windmills built for pumping water wells had the entire disk area in blades and overlapping blades which capture redirected air from the preciding blade. Today kids don't design so much as copy something others have built. Unfortunately the one that has become the norm produces 15% of the rated power. We have wind farms on the NC coast around Elizabeth City. With a field of 125 turbines usually I see 8 of them actually turning and the rest pointed at some odd direction.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 Thankyou, thats a good amount of information to unpack. Hint taken, will hit the subscibe button ;-). I recently graduated in Mechatronics, its been several years since I studied induction in any meaningful way. Been meaning to get my books back out but I'm busy with other projects. Thats an interesting way of designing your coil arrangement simply using ohms law. Last time I ventured down this rabit hole I found a nice equation which incorperated wire area, coil turns and lengths, admittadley I was playing with electromagnets at the time. 1. So If ive understood your design method correctly. You have started out by choosing the power ouput and voltage to determine current (A=P/V) which you use for wire diameter and then use your chosen voltage, calculated current to find resistance (R=V/I) and hence wire length. So number of turns is irrelevant? For power was this chosen as a maximum for a S.F? Quick note, I didnt mean to be rude about your communication in the video, it just doesnt flow very well. An affliction most Engineers suffer with including my self. If I was going to make a video I would try the following format; 1. Write down what I am hoping to communicate and arange it in a logical (segmented) order related to the linear design process. 2. Push the principle facts before delving into more detailed analysis on each topic (segment). 3. Back up what you are saying when stating important facts by writing them on screen at the same time (like bullet points). Also include relevant formulas so the viewer can refer back and test your ideas quickly in excel which aids the learning process. A skeptic might argue this all amounts to dumming it down a little and this in part this is true. But when your explaining anything no matter how trivial, you always have the benfit of your own memory that usually holds context to what you are trying to explain. Unfortunatley the audience doesnt have that context unless they are already familiar with the subject matter...in which case they probably wont be viewing your video. Looking forward to more analysis of PMG's :-D

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 Again great information. When I get round to making my own vawt, I was hoping to play about with electronic control for the output. So rather than wiring all my coils for each phase in series, I wanted to complicate matters by connecting them in sequence as wind speed varies, thus having low speed power (using a buck boost when needed) and greater braking force when higher wind speeds were present. I would have had a comparator controlling a dump load as well. So as you pointed out, mosfets or IGBT's. Your information is very valid though, I do lack essential knolege in Power Electronics for smoothing. I will definatley spend some time learning what you have pointed out in both your replys. I also wanted to experiment with an axial cored design so that I can use 2x cheaper ceramic magnets on each coil being passed since as they are cheaper than Neodiniums. I would probably go for a wider disk and segment it into generator sections that in turn could be turned on and off. I have to copy to learn, but I do like understanding what I am doing.

Yes, because thicker magnets of the same length and width have more volume and therefore more field strength. Search E-Bay for N52 followed by the dimensions. For this application surface poles rather than end poles and run with as little air gap as you can build because magneti forces diminishes rapidly with larger air gaps. Having the stator sandwiched between two rotor plates will be stronger than mamnets twice as thick on one side only. The opposing magnets nee to be opposite polarity. Thanks for being todays viewer on this channel

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 1 more question sir, for example i created 1kw turbine and the wind speed are in good and stable rpm can i run air condition directly without battery usage?

@@diymixvideos1825 A/C and no battery bank is *NOT* recommended ...

@@diymixvideos1825 Basically, NO. A battery of any size is needed to dump the 3 phase rectifier into and the battery amperage and voltage need to exceed the wattage of your load. Also the aircon cycles off and on with the compressor being most of the load. The thing to keep in mind is that you are generating 3 phase power and the aircon is single phase. Also the voltage needs boosted thru the inverter and have a 60 cycle output since the aircon motors are synchernous motors in most cases, although a lot of newer refigeration gear use variable cycle speed inverters. With small battery capacity and variable load some way to dump excess generation is important. Possibly a Zenir diode in front of the inverter on the DC out of the rectifier.

Rioderixxx, FINALLY AN EASY QUESTION. OK The wire diameter is the bare copper diameter with the enamel coating scraped off. The number of coils is a multiple of three, so 21coils/3 = 7 coils per phase. The coils of a phase are connected in series, 7 per phase. Take any two of the output leads and measure the resistance of the 7 coils that are in series. That resistance is the resistance of 7 coils. So resistance of 7 coils/7 is the resistance of one coil. Google "magnet wire specifications chart" or go to sales literature and find resistance for 1000 feet for 1.6 mm diameter wire. Your resistance/ the catalog resistance = the percent of 1000 feet of wire. in feet of wire per coil. if it was say 6% then .06 X 1000 ft = 60 feet per coil. 2500 watts/ 45 volts = 55 amps, and 2000 watts / 90 volts = 22 amps. On your magnet wire chart or sales literature see what AWG wire guage suits your AMPS load. There will also be a column that shows the diameter of that wire. See where 1.6 falls. Then scream loudly until you feel better or the police arrive. The inside width of your coil = magnet width. If your average wrap length can't consume the length needed for the resistance make them longer past the ends of the magnet to use up some wire. I figure it also is more efficient that way considering the direction of flux lines off the end of the magnet. Anyway size the wire by amp capacity, the length by resistance needed and then the magnet flux density will determine output watts. If you need more voltage you may have to drive it with a cogged belt overdrive, but try to design it for direct drive. You can of course use a transformer after the rectifier or an inverter to get your required voltage.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 Thank you for the answer, but I'm not sure how to find it and calculate it exactly. Wire thickness and acc. I have a 2kw inverter that works from 45-90v. For this, American generators need more or less 2 or 2.5 kw, and the volt should be chosen so that it fits between 45-90v for the inverter. The thickness of the wire varies, I do not know if 1.6 or better 1.1. I found a 1.10mm copper winding wire where I think 9.7 amps and 0.0197 ohms per 1 meter. So for these 21 coils it will use 250-300 meters, it will be 2425 - 2910 amps, so a lot, or I don't understand it. How many turns and what sizes does it not matter what size of the coil? And I haven't bought the wire yet.

Rioderixxx, I suspect that your coil to magnet polarities are not matching up and you are trying to connect a 3 phase alternator to a DC input on the inverter without a 3 phase rectifier to make it a DC input. I outlined how I would check this in the other comment. Nice bike in your video. I am looking for a ZX12 bought by someone terrified by it and left it sitting in the barn.

Tom, Each of the coil colors are a set of coils all wired end to end. The 3 sets of series connected coils are 1/3 out of phase in rotation, so if one is at zero crossing the one before it is 1/3 positive and the one following is 1/3 negative. The total coils devided by three is the frequency that it is alternating at.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 Take the two green coils in the bottom left at the start of the video. They both have a magnet pretty much over their middle. But one is a north and the other is south... So as the rotor moves a little bit round one of the coils will be going up in voltage and the other down. The ratio of 30 coils to 32 magnets is resulting in adjacent coils being 24 degrees out of phase with their neighbours so it's not until you get to the 15th coil that you are in phase. If you had 30 coils to 40 magnets adjacent coils would be 120 degrees out and you've got your 3 phases, as it is your red coils are 3*24=72 degrees out. I might be wrong but that's how it looks to me

There are 3 phases, red blue and green. All the blue are in series as are the red and green. The 3 outputs, red blue and green are AC because the magnets are N-S-N-S ....N-S to capatilize on inrush currents. As a generator the 3 outputs go thru a 3 phase rectifier and output a DC voltage. As a motor which I have under construction the sets of coils are wired as WYE. This means that the say blue coils feed into the red coils or the green coils with whatever phase not connected left open to read flyback EMF for comutating the motor since it is a brushless DC and has no commutator or brushes. 3 Hall effect sensors can also be used which would allow timing lead, however the six wires would have to run clear of the 7 meter diameter fan to the controller. Putting the controller above the fan makes it inacessable so back EMF was chosen. The 30coils to 40 magnets will have a very high angular advancemet coil to coil and since they are in series some would be outputting voltage of opposite polarity making several coils cancel each other out. I chose 30 coils to 32 magnets for minimum angular advancement around the stator. All the different coil to magnet ratios are for the same purpose, that being to avoid all of them going off silmultaniously which is referred to as "cogging" A BLDC motor with the same number of coils and magnets is how a stepper motor operates. It is intended to cog from one pole position to the next, and by counting the drive pulses the number of revolutions can be counted. Applications would be CNC equipment and 3D printers. Your coil count must be devisable by 3 for 3 phases of equal output. The magnets are either north or south polarity so must divide by two. The alternating north and south polarity is so 2 like magnets repelling at the half way point to the next magnet can be the opposite polarity and attract each other. Opposite coils meaning 180 degrees of rotation and an even number of magnets one is north and the other one has to then be south. The number of coils for 5 phase, nine phase, and 15 phase have to be divisible by the number of phases. Anything else produces vibration and electrical growling noises. There is another video called stator as a work of art which shows a split stator that can be a six phase, or two independent three phase motors. As usual our presenter has likely rambeled off subject resulting in confusion resulting in no one watching these videos including me and my Philippine Asawa.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 but the red coils (for example) are not "in phase" - if you graph their individual outputs the are not maximum or zero simultaneously. So how can you call them a phase? Simply wiring them in series doesn't make them in phase... They will be working against each other. If you have 3:4 coils to magnets every third coils output will be in phase and thus wiring them in series they have positive interference.

That is an inrunner radial generator turned by an electric motor. It will have iron cores in the coils as well. Ohms law would still be valid, and 3 phase principles still apply to this. Things external to the generator would work the same.

I have thirty coils every third one is wired in series for three sets of 10 coils. Every other coil is wired counterclockwise with the rest wired clockwise due to the magnets being mounted N_S_N_S_N_S....... So three sets with two ends each is 6 wires leaving the coils. If connected delta then 3 wires leave the stator. If wired WYE there is a common wire also so that is 4 connection points off the stator. If you are running the stator as a motor like on our whole house fan then one set of ten coils is connected to another in series and the third is idle with the connected pairs constantly changing and repeating every 6 steps. This is because a BLDC motor is electronically commutated whereas running as a generator there is no commutation. So as a motor 20 coils connected at any one instant. So the confusion has to do with the same stator running as a motor or an alternator

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 So would this mean that all 3 phase motors would have 6 conductors? As you say, 3 sets with 2 ends each. Not exactly sure what you mean by "conductors". Any clarification would be great. Thanks!

@@DementioMod I believe, What he means by 6 conductors is, he has 6 strands of 18 gauge wire in parallel in the winding. i.e 2.3 amps x 6 conductors = 13.8 amps.. you increase current carrying capacity by wiring wire strands in parallel

My computer doesn't translate Farsi but thanks for commenting. You might also find a lot of useful information on the "electronoobs" youtube channel. He is particularly clear on BLDC motors which are essentially built the same as 3 phase alternators, with the addition of electronic commutation which is not needed to be used as a generator.

The key elements are coils must devide by three and the coils of a phase are connected in series. The Wye or delta connection of the series wound coils puts two phases in series and the third set are off. The pattern repeats every six steps. The second truism is that the number of magnets must devide by two so they can alternate north and south. Having the magnets and coils with different but close numbers of them prevents half the coils all coming on or off simultaneously which makes for a jerky rotation called cogging. One other thing is that you don't have to use only three phase connections. Five phases can be done or you can have coils devided by 6 and wire up two independent 3 phase windings as a double delta. The plus side is that in low wind only 1/2 the coils are on when you get up to get up to cut in RPM and the second set at a higher cut in RPM. The wire size for any scheme is determined by all the coils that are in series for a phase, or 2/3 of the coils in a 3 phase because the other third are not on. If the coils are devided into smaller paralelled groups then there is less length of magnet wire and therefore less resistance and results in larger winding wire for a given voltage. This has probably removed those pesky spots of clarity. Our stator is two 180 degree segments so we can slide them between the two magnet rotors which have in our case 10,800 pounds of attractive force plus a multiplier for the amount of magnetism in the steel rotor plates. In perfect conditions the multiplier is 2 but we have a 3/4 inch thick stator with .030 inch clearance on either side. So probably only 9,000 pounds of attraction total. Still a lethal little item.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 Thank you very much I could in no way explain it better myself. And as a metric goon my self then it is not always technically English farts in on first attempt. I found and ordered wire for my trapezoid and with great help from your explanation about the stator, i can still use what i get. You gave me some good pointers and gold grains with coil in the opposite direction so they do not counteract flow + more conductors to carry the load. Also your video on airfoil was of great help to me. Until I found your version the best explanation for gauges and laps I had was from @muddymuddymuddmann (BUILD A DUAL PERMANENT MAGNET ROTOR WIND TURBINE (PART 1) Best regards Michael

Remember that every third coil is wired in series so the resistance is for the entire string. Also as long as the coil count is different than the magnet count cogging will be reduced. The magnet count can be larger or smaller than the coil count as long as it divides by 2. There is a video on here showing how to tell if a coil is canciling out another coil's output which really screws up the power generated. Smallest ratio would be 2 magnets and 3 coils, and I am doing 30 coils and 32 magnets so many ratios are available.

@@concretehousebuildinginph1488 review the design. check the obvious.