Thank you for your video. My car wouldn't start and was silent when turning the key. Just from watching your video I went back and found a loose wire. Found where it belonged and my car started with no problem.

Excellent at least a guy that knows how these modern motors are working. Now I know how to be sure on that it isn't the neutral safety switch and not the ignition switch but rather the starter.

It is easy, but you need to make sure that is the problem first. The fusible link is the second thickest wire that usually goes from the positive post of the battery to the starter. This wire can get fried by a short circuit of the battery. This wire has a thinner wire embedded inside so if it over heats or gets too hot it blows. It is usually the thickness of a pencil. I would check all the fuses you can get to first though.

Well I appreciate the help and yeah I just went down the list ya threw out there and I checked all the ground conections made sure they was clean and tight and no bad wires. Hooked the booster cables to my truck a she popped off on the first try. Thank you again im glad an easy fix was all it was and not a couple hunderd dollar repar bill.

@charlesknx Yes, we pulled our starter from the top. The only trick was that it has two mounting bolts that were in two different directions. In the starter you have one bolt that comes into the block from the housing of the starter and threads into the block. The second bolt comes through the block "the opposite direction" and threads into the housing of the starter. If you pause the video at 8:22 you will see one of the bolt holes on bottom right "starter housing".

My 1999 Dakota did not start. This video was very helpful. I was able to replace the started and the starter relay. Thanks for this clip.

I was sticking the 99 cent Harbor Freight light tester into the ignition switch wire connector to see if it had power. The light tester is like an ice pick with a wire coming out attached to an alligator clip. I grounded the wire clip to a bolt/frame and touched the point of the tester into the ignition switch wire connecter. Each time the key was turned it sent power to the connector and made the light turn on.

Best explanation out there for this problem. My 92 corolla want start just batt light appears. Batt good, Alt new, so my problem is narrowed done to ns or ign switch or starter but from watching video it must be my switch or electrical.Door chime while key in the eng worked while mine doesn't and my radio want work but lights will and fuses checked out and I tested starter with jumper cables and it worked. I plan to use your way the next time its definitely better and the vid def. helps. Thx.

No wonder why most people can’t trouble shoot electrical problems And are completely lost in space. Guys like this are running around “TEACHING” The unknowing and inexperienced Leaving them completely “LOST”. For the up-and-coming troubleshooters it’s hard to forget the “BAD” information that they’ve learned, there should be some sort of law against it!! I’m one of the lucky few who survived guys like this!!!!!!!!!!

I have a 96 Nissan Sentra that i had a cranking problem with, i would turn the key and nothing! I changed the neutral saftey switch first and still nothing, so then i bought battery cables and same story nothing lol when i came across this video is when i bought a tester light and tested the ignition wire as shown in the vid, i had no power going to the wire so i purchased a new tumbler/ign switch installed it and she fired right up!!! Thanks for the help...

as far as i know it didnt make any noises. it has been hard to get the key to turn alot before this problem though. it was involved in an accident before i ended up buying it. both airbags on dash and steering wheel were deployed. all ive done to it so far was a oil change and a new battery

I haven'tread many of the comments but had my kudos to your list of admirers Thanks for pulling the starter so I can see the three post and where you applied the test light

This helped although at first I was confused and didnt know if you wanted me to test it with the battery terminal connected to the starter.

@scodurh If the key is on it constantly has power without turning the ignition. You could turn the ignition on and walk over to the starter and jump the solenoid. This should force a start but you are just jumping the power from the battery and grounding it on the starter. This does not guarantee you are getting power from the ignition.when the starter is making zero noise we had to test the wiring. The starter did not even click so we thought it was the ignition or the neutral safety switch.

@Jnm349 If the starter is clicking it should be the solenoid. The sound is the power reaching the starter. It could be the flywheel or the starter shims, but sounds like a bad solenoid. If you remove the starter and leave the wires connected, just have someone turn the key. If the gear inside the starter gear does not jump out (every time) and spin VERY fast it is the solenoid. The solenoid is the problem a lot of cars have, its normal. At least you have power reaching the starter. SOLENOID!

Thanks this helps me to troubleshoot my situation. My wife's car wouldn't start and it appeared to be the starter. I was just about to purchase the starter when I thought to myself Lord you haven't even bench tested it or even tested while it was still in the vehicle. I bench tested it and it ran. Tomorrow I need to make sure power is going there. I wish I could do a voltage drop, but obviously its not starting. But nevertheless I can see if my clutch switch is still functioning. Thanks again

I agree 100% you are right on the money. I was helping a computer nerd guy with his car, trust me he was not interested in seeing if it was the solenoid or the starter, lol. I pulled it apart and it was the brushes in the solenoid that were worn out. The starter was fine, but it was easier to just buy the starter with the solenoid attached. I guess I should have explained this, but the auto parts chain stores usually sell them as one piece nowadays. swapping the solenoid would have been cheaper

Some refurbished parts do have major problems. I have seen alternators, starters, and distributors "CAN" all have issues. It is a rare occurrence, but this does happen with refurbished. I purchase everything from Kragens and Autozone so I have had problems with parts before. I had the same issue with my old 1993 Chevy truck starter. It had the same issue you described. Once I got a good starter (3rd try), it never went bad again. It is just kinda the risk you take with refurbished Auto parts.

After looking at your video I am not sure its the starter at all, car clicks and sputters but just doesn't make it to start. But if you can get it started it will start fine for a while till the next day..thinking it has something to do with the fuel ratio or pressure. Anyways cheers its helped me narrow it down.

Thanks Ramro - if it's that simple, I'll be delighted! I hadn't thought to search for a fuse in the line itself. I pulled and checked all the heavy-duty fuses I could see in the under-hood fuse box; 30 - 50 amp, and none of them were blown. I'll let you know.

@BarrBarrBinks I don't know if I responded to you or not, sorry? If the starter is clicking, then most likely it is the solenoid on the starter that is going out. You probably have to replace the complete starter as a unit, but this should fix the problem. The ignition is sending a signal to the starter and that is the click you hear, so it is probably just a starter replacement, or shim the starter so the gear grabs the fly wheel.

awesome video to explain and show the logic behind deducing a starter problem! Big Big kudos to you!

Well we replaced the starter and it worked great. Turns out the solenoid was going out, but the local shops just sell the starter that comes with the solenoid attached as one part. Good luck, and let me know if I can help?

Great Video! I live up in Northern Wisconsin and will be doing this tomorrow outside in sub-20 degree weather. This video will save me lots of frustration. Your the best!

Sounds like it is your solenoid. The sound you hear is the solenoid getting power, but not energizing enough to spin the gear in the flywheel. It is the classic sound of the solenoid going out. A new starter will have a solenoid already attached, so replacing the starter should solve the problem. Oreiley's and Auto Zone will check the starter for free, but some stores can only check the starter once it has been removed.

Thank You for saying that. I try to reply with a comment when ever I get some help, but sometimes my hands are full of grease or I am in the middle of a project. I hope the Triumph is fixed soon..Good Luck!

The 89 Suburban is an automatic. The last time it didn't start I did this... I moved the column shift selector into neutral and tried with no start...put it back into park and tried with no start...and then I pulled the shifter back towards me with it in part and then it started. I turned it off and was able to start about 3 more times. Once I got it home and parked in the right spot it would not start no matter what. Battery is strong based on headlights.

Thanks for the response, and the sound starts when the car starts... it'll start up and the rpm shoots down and back up to the idling level it's kind of weird... but the reason why I ask is because I had a mechanic install it and wasn't sure if I should take it back to them to fix this problem

@Jnm349 That is a valid point, but sometimes the problem is intermittent. The only way to be sure that the starter is getting a signal every key turn would be with a tester light or a multi meter. I have had starters make no click and then crank a few times and then click. It is almost always the solenoid. You van set up a tester light with any 12 volt light and a few wires. Just put one on the solenoid power wire and the other to a GOOD ground and connect them to any extra bulb.

Thanks for watching and the comment. I have worked on all kinds of cars and I still need to watch KZfaq videos to work problems out.

Sorry , I was unclear. Thank You so much for watching and commenting. I am glad it helped...Craig!

Got it running it was a ground cable connection Thank you for the help much appreciated.

No, the starter can not kill the battery. Have you hooked up a stereo or amp recently? The battery could be losing its charge and going bad or the alternator could be going out. Usually when the alternator starts going out the dome lights and head lights start getting dim. Batteries can be checked at your local Oreiley's or Autozone for free. They usually check them on the car while it is running. You can also get a hydrometer and check it yourself, to see if it is the battery.

This man is incredible. Thank you Sir. Lesson on primary secondary wiring.

Try checking the big fuses and relays in the engine compartment first. If that does not work it may be the ignition. The radio and lights are separate from the dash lights and starter. You may want to engage the emergency brake and jiggle the ignition as you turn the key. The ignition sounds like it is on "accessory only" kinda like when you turn the key to the position where the radio plays and the car does not start. I hope this helps? Sorry I don't know much about the 300C.

If the starter is making a horrible high pitched grinding sound then it could be one of three things. 1. the starter gear is worn or not engaging in the flywheel, the solution could be replacing the gear or just buying a new starter. 2. The starter is weak and not throwing the gear far enough to engage the flywheel, the solution a new starter. 3. The flywheel is missing teeth and you will need a new flywheel. 4. The starter needs a shim (thin piece of metal) or may be loose.

You are probably right, it sounds like the gear is not retracting fast enough. This could be because the starter is getting loose or the solenoid is going out. The solenoid could be all gummed up inside too so if it was me I would remove the starter and spray brake parts cleaner inside to clean it up. Then I would put in a shim and see if that helps. If you look at the wear on the small star gear of the solenoid this will help you diagnose the problem.

@ImRamro Thanks for the response. I'm also worried about the fact is that initially the starter was cranking for maybe couple of revolution and half an hour after it was just that clicking sound. I was thinking that maybe if the solenoid was bad , it would have made the clicking sound from the beginning.

Thnx for the vid. I sometimes have this issue with my 99 buick century. It struggles to fully crank so I step on the gas whichbit helps most of times. I hear a grindin soumd and thumping at the same time plus white smokes comes out the muffler. When i do have problems i have to keep mybfoot on the gas sonit wont turn off. Sometimes when its failin tonturn on it would just click once and i would have to leave it alone for days. A mechanic read my starter at 75

@jdubb408 Do the lights or any other power item turn on? Sounds simple, but check the battery connections. Next if there is no power reaching the starter it could be the fusible link (thick wire, but not as thick as the battery cable main power wire to the starter). These tend to burn up if there is a short some where. Next I would check the ignition. If you remove the steering column and get to the wiring you can check to make sure the ignition is working. Sometimes it is just 1 bad wire.

@chamblizi My wife has a 1974 Ford GT Ranchero, if you have any more questions please don't hesitate to ask. Glad you solved the problem.

Outstanding Information! Thank you. BUT I wish you had told me that the thing was unplugged BEFORE you started to touvh things with a metal piece of something, I had to tie myself to the chair to be able to watch it!!!LOLOL I'm scared to death of electricity! Especially batteries! when I heard it was unplugged, I was ok. Man you scared me. Chickens getting heads cut off is nothing compared to a man with a battery and a metal "stick" Thanks for the video, Very Good!!! I understood it too!!!!!

@TheGreenPlague Thank you, but it has more to do with being that broke, lol. I guess I was forced to learn a little because I hate purchasing things I might be able to fix or do myself. Thank you for watching.

It is probably the starter going out. The solenoid that is mounted to the starter as (one unit) is probably going bad. These type of starters can give you problems for a year or two before they break completely. The easiest thing would be to clean the battery terminals and battery cables, a bad starter wire or starter overheating can cause this problem too. I am pretty sure it is the starter and AutoZone or Oreiley's can test the starter for you for free.

Yes, if the wire is giving power to the starter then the problem is the starter or solenoid that is mounted to the starter. You can take an OHM tester and see if the power reaching the starter through that wire is between 12-14 V. This will tell you that you are getting the full power from the 12 Volt battery. If the wire has 12+v power when you turn the key, then the ignition and wiring are fine, the problem is within the starter. Hope this helped?

@AMDGuy64 I had a Chevy that I replaced all the major components on and used huge industrial cables a friend made me. When I installed the new 1 inch thick cables I mounted them to a spot on the frame where I sanded the paint off. They looked sweet, but my voltage was dropping and sometimes the lights were dim. I tried everything I could think of and when I removed the ground cable I mounted it to a accessory bracket on the block. That fixed the problem...weird. Good Luck!

That long stud on starter is positive. Both stubs but after the solenoid is energized the stud becomes positive powering the starter

First check the lights and if the battery has good power you know it may not be the batt. Next, is there any clicking sounds or noises when you turn the key? If there is a click, but the engine does not crank, then the starter is probably betting power. It is a good chance the starter is out. Hope this gets you started.

Thanks for the video I have a 2003 Honda Element. I wanted to test the switch and neutral safety switch before swapping out the starter and didn't know how til this watching this.

The starter may need a shim so that the starter gear is not binding up, but more commonly the starter solenoid is not retracting the gear. This is common on GM trucks and it is a sign that the solenoid is going out. When the solenoid is energized it throws the gear out and turns the flywheel. You can pull the solenoid apart and check the return spring or just get a new starter/solenoid combo.

Well it could be a couple of different things. It could be the neutral safety switch, the starter/solenoid, or the ignition. You can check the ignition with a tester light like we did here and at least it will be a start. If you get no signal or light turning on the tester, then you will know that the starter is not the issue. 420 is pretty high for a starter job, so maybe seek another opinion. Autozone will test the starter for free, but the starter has to be removed and taken in?

It could be a couple of different things, but if it is only having problems when the engine is hot....then it sounds like the starter is not insulated, the starter solenoid is going out, the ignition wire (small wire connected to starter) is damaged or has a bad connection, or the battery cables or battery terminals may need to be cleaned and tightened. I have had the same problem on a car we owned. We replaced the starter and installed a heat shield.

Thank You. Very helpful. not loking foreward toworkin on my f-150. It's in a terribly bad,( hard to get a wrench or even socket on and try to turn) location.

Great video, thanks for making it easy to understand.

Great quick educational vid Ram 🐏 keep up the great work!👍

Sounds like the neutral safety switch or a transmission linkage problem. The transmission linkage is not engaging in the park position or on the transmission its self. This would cause the transmission to appear out of gear to the computer. If you have to slam it in and out of park, then it sounds like an adjustment in the transmission linkage is your problem. I will send you some banter from a thread/forum that may help.

It turned out to be the solenoid on the starter that was going out in this car. We purchased a new starter and it worked great. The solenoid was going out and only started the car when it wanted to. If you want to test it out, you can follow the steps in the video. I would guess that cleaning the battery contacts and moving the wires around and the vehicle starts, is just a coincidence. I would bet that the starter is going out. If you get the starter tested it will be intermittent.

The intermittent starting problem can be the neutral safety switch? The easiest way to check it would be to test the wire like we did in the video. #1 You can try moving the gear shifter rapidly through the gears, then return to park and turn the key. #2 You can also try and start the car in neutral? If one of these two things start the car, it may be the neutral safety switch? It could be something else of course like battery cables or the ignition? You can make your own shims out of alum can

Thank you. Yes I have a sound system but it was already killing batteries even before i installed the system. I had Oreiley's check my battery and alternator and both are good. I dont know what else it could be a possibility

Well I would check for spark first. The car may crank well, but that does not mean the spark is reaching the plug. Then I would spray some started fluid in the carb and see if it even tries to start. Please be careful of a backfire flame shooting out the carb. You could have a broken timing belt or your timing belt has skipped time, but this is more rare. I would make sure you have fuel and spark reaching the plugs first.

Thanks, I know that the solenoids are sold separately, but I figured most would just replace the whole thing. In this video I am replacing this on a friends Toyota, thanks for the tips I will use them in the future.

Power can be sent directly from the positive battery cable where it connects to the starter to the long copper ground. Just please make sure you are not touching the metal part of the screw driver. Make sure you hold the screw driver from the plastic/wooden handle and make sure you are clear of the engine fan and all other moving belts. It will create a good spark when it works. Just be safe and don't touch anything but the screw driver if you can. Make sure the key is in the start position.

I am no expert, but it sounds like your solenoid may be going out. This car I am working on in the vid was having the same issue. When he turned the key all he would get is a click, but after the 2nd try, it would start right up. He had this problem for about a year before he asked for help. You can replace the solenoid only, but most of the time the starter and solenoid are sold as a "starter". It takes a lot of power to energize the solenoid so maybe start by looking for a bad wire connection?

I got a 78 Dodge Sportsman RV that has intermittent starting. I bypassed the neutral safety switch, hotwired it to bypass the ignition switch, and the starter appears to be functioning properly in the bench test. Anyone have any other ideas?

Delighted to have had a response. You are very helpful. Thank you, Cindy, thank you, ImRamro. Bless you.

Relays do go out and there is a way to check them, I just don't know how, lol. If you have a starter relay and an air conditioner relay that are the same voltage, you can switch them and see if it works, but it is probably not a relay. They are designed to open up or shut down when they get overloaded. Let me think about it and I will get back to you. It sounds simple, but we need to check a few more things before ruling anything out, sorry just really busy lately.

wow bro...nice video. thanks for helping us all,i appriciated it a whole lot. god bless and good luck in ur future videos if any!!

An easy way to test the safty switch is if it won't start in park put your foot on the brake, put it in nutral and try again, if it starts its a bad/dirty switch, if it still won't go check the ignishion. If when you turn the key you hear a click its not the ingnision, if no click turn the headlights on and check if they are dim if so its your battery. If none of this helps then start pulling wires, that will most likly save you time and effort.

Thanks for info.not much of a repair person on cars.good job

Great video bud!! Thanks!

If the car cranks, then the battery is still working. I would check for spark first. You can do this with a spark tester or removing one spark plug wire and sticking a screw driver in the spark plug boot. Then lat the plug wire with the screw driver inside it real close to something metal on the engine. When you crank the car, you should see a small blue spark jumping from the screw driver to the piece of metal. Don't touch the screw driver metal when you do this or it will give you a shock.

Great video! Time for me to invest in a test light. Thank you.

Sounds like it is in the keyed ignition. Sometimes the ignition wears out and will only stay running if the key is in the ignition and you strap a rubber band from the key to some other object like the shifter. This is to keep the contact inside the ignition constant. When the key has no pressure on it, the key loses contact and the car thinks you have removed the key. This ''can'' be cause by a faulty ignition.

Sounds like the fusable link? The battery should have a wire that is attached to the positive cable. This wire is not the super thick main cable, but a heavy gauge wire about 1/2 as thick as a pencil. This is a wire that has a fuse inside of it, this wire is called the fusible link. All it is is a heavy wire with a fuse or thinner wire inside that will blow to save your components. It should run to the starter solenoid. The wire should have a lump in it. I had the same problem once, good luck.

@ImRamro its actually a 1975 Ford Ranchero 6.6L but i found the problem the column is worn out and broken.

If everything is normal with the exception of the click and no start, then the most realistic problem is the starter or bad battery cables. Sometimes one or both cables are loose or corroded. The click you hear means the ignition is sending a signal to the starter, so the ignition is probably fine. The Malibu is a front wheel drive motor so the starter should be where the motor and transmission meet in the lower front. It will be located in exactly the same position as this car in the video.

Hello, and thanks for the informative video. There is one thing that I want to clarify, and here's my question: Let's say that a test light hooked to the ignition wire of the starter fails to light when the ignition key is turned on. You've stated that the problem would be with either the ignition switch or neutral safety switch. But what about the starter relay? How does one rule out the relay in this situation? I hear a relay clicking when I turn the key, but nothing from the starter.

Great video. Perfect way to explain how to diagnose. In fact... you just reminded me that I need to replace my test light... LOL

sorry, hook up the starter and let it hang there so that the post does not touch the block, then try "bump"cranking it. If it gets power then you may have to find a way to make sure the starter post is not touching. It could be as easy as a fuse, the wire on the starter, or the fusible link. I smoked a starter years ago and found that my fusible link wire was burned up. It is a wire about as thick as a pencil that is hooked up to the power side of the battery. Hope this helps?

Hey right on!! I love reading comments like this and try to respond to everyone. If you have any questions in the future, just drop me a line. Craig

If you got liquid on the coil, distributor, or coil packs, it may need to be dried up. I don't know a lot about Subaru, but if the car will not start and you got some coolant on the engine, it is only one of a few things. Anywhere you have a spark plug wire needs to be dried up. If you got liquid "inside" any spark plug wire area like the coil or distributor then the car will have no spark. It will probably start in a few hours or maybe a few days on its own. I would dry it up, Good luck.

i have found a brand new wire harness on a chevy/gmc part website brand new for 329.99 thanks for your help ill get back to you if have anymore issues that id need help with -trevor

If the motor is cranking, then the starter is working. When you say the motor is turning, do you mean the starter motor or the vehicle's engine? What noise is it making, and have you tested the plugs for spark? What was it doing before it stopped running/starting? Sorry for all the questions, but it could be a few things, most common is no spark if the engine is cranking.

Keep it simple. If you suspect a bad starter just jump the 87/30 pins at the fuse box for the STARTER RELAY (I use needle nose pliers) . This bypasses everything from the fuse box back to the ignition switch. No start= bad starter or bad electrical connection. This way anybody can do in less than 5 min.

The neutral safety switch should only cause the vehicle to start in neutral and in park. The car (should) do the exact same thing in park and neutral. The neutral safety is designed so that the vehicle will not start in gear and lunge forward or backward to hit someone. You can test the wire like we did in the video with a cheap test light. What is it doing exactly? I am more than happy to help.

Hi, and thanks for your informative videos. My Toyota, usually very reliable, has started not cranking, making a 'want-to-start' initial noise and then a whirring sound when the key is turned. The battery test result was OK, according the technicians. To start, it requires being jump started but from then on, it is fine, starting first time every time. I noticed the negative battery cable was loose and had that tightened but the problem persists, only on starting it the first time round. Once jump started it runs fine, even if I turn the engine off and then on again. Any ideas?

This may be repetitious but the terminal-open copper wire you identified as ground is NOT. It is the switched high current line, Ground is established by the bolts attaching the starter to the block/transmission.

I'm not mechanic.i did help my ex yrs ago on cars.he wasn't much of teaching.now I'm single.i try to do my own fixing..found a nice mechanic.i have 96 blazer.plus 03 S10 truck.both not good vehicles.have done alot of work on both..batery is very weak on truck..

@AMDGuy64 Sounds like the alternator is not charging enough or the alternator is fine and the battery is not accepting the charge. Since you have a new batt and alternator, then it could be the large black negative cable from the battery needs to be mounted to the engine block "not" the frame and cleaned of all paint at mounting contacts. It may be something in your distributor or just bad/dirty/loose battery connections. I would start with the batt cables and move to the distributor wiring?

Try installing a different relay that is rated the same like the wiper motor or fuel pump? If there is no power at all reaching the relay then it is before the relay, but if power is reaching the relay and not making it to the starter it could be a fusible link, a ground, or bad wiring?

It could be something in the ignition? Next time it refuses to start, try starting it in neutral. It could just be the neutral safety switch?

Something has to be draining the battery when the car is just parked and not being used. I would try to disconnect the amp or stereo or pull any fuses that control the sound system and then see if that is the problem. I had the same problem with the auxiliary blue or orange wire for my amp before and had to rewire it so that the stereo only worked while the car was running. Next you can take a test light and check the fuse block to see what is hot when the car is off and probably narrow it down.

Usually it is the solenoid that goes out and some times it gives you a warning and other times it just goes out. If you are having problems with the starters going out you may want to invest in a new " non refurbished" starter. they last 10 times longer than the rebuilt stuff. You may also want to install some heat tape or a heat shield if the heat it damaging the starter?

If the car runs fine with the battery disconnected, then the alt is probably good. It sounds like you have a wire that is hot with the ignition off? Do you have a after market stereo or other electronics? The battery could be draining from a bulb staying on in the engine compartment or dash? I would turn off the car and check as many wires as you can to see if any are still hot? You can also remove the fuses one at a time and narrow it down? The fuse removal will tell you where to start looking?

[thank, you for you're very helpful info and you're video and you're time]👍👍

it is a constant on that one , we take a quick trip to the store, it hasn't fully warmed we shut it down..were screwed for an hour.. I removed the solenoid and tested to make sure, heard a click while turning the engine over where as before there was no click. I know its a relay some where, so upon hearing this click and seeing that the light was turning on every time I bumped the switch..I plugged it back in and the dang thing started.

Please answer?! I have a 99 Saturn Sl2 and it randomly doesn't start. I've had it for a year and it's done this maybe 20x tops. It's happening way more frequently now. For instance, I drive somewhere with no problems. Get out of the car, come back 10-20mins later and nothing. Lights and everything comes on but the car won't start. No noise, just nothing. I wait from 30 mins to several (5+) hrs and it starts like nothing is wrong. I don't have an alarm system on my car. Any suggestions?

It could be several different things, but it is most likely the starter. When the solenoid starts to go bad, the starter usually starts clicking and may take a few times to get going.

When you say crossed, I am assuming you are bridging the gap on the starter and solenoid with a screw driver? Well is the engine turning over at all? If the only thing you get is power to the starter, then the starter/solenoid is probably going out. You can get an Ohm meter and make sure that you have 12-14 volts reaching the solenoid just to make sure. I had a starter that was going out and would only work if I banged it with a 2x4 wood. Sounds like the problem is in the starter or solenoid.

It's fine, I thank you for the help you have given so far. You are very helpful and I thank you.