Thank you sir!

I think he wanted to go for a ride.

Thank you Kevin, Jeff!

Hi Hoagie. Sometime in the future I did plan on doing a video on the one of a kind things created here for that buggy build. There is quite the list for that one!

Hi John, thanks & a Merry Christmas to you!

Thanks Andrew. Same to you!, Jeff.

Hello Crag. I bought a CJ5 new years ago, had lotsa mods and custom painted. Watched it disappear due to rust and decided to find something that worked! Thanks for stopping by, Jeff.

@@2jeffs1 my gas gauge reads too high but after I drive around for a little while gets back to normal can you tell me what's wrong or any ideas

Thank you! Told my friend about your lithium powered snowblower video yesterday & he's going to check it out....

Cool that you found the break. Sometimes chasing those type of issues can gobble too much time but when the ah-ha moment arrives, what a relief!

Hey codes and coffee. I have a Hyundai i20 2010 model and have fuel gauge problem, not giving correct fuel reading. I took it to Hyundai and they told me I need to change the instrument cluster, which too expensive to replace. Everything on my cluster works , I just want to know is such a problem fixable or do I need a new

Thanks! Always try to include those - not in the manual idea's making things more accurate and easier for diagnosing.

Thanks man! Those pesky creatures!

“I bet we know now, what we should be looking at!”; if pheasants is one of the multiple choice answers on the test I’m screwed. F*CK!

Your welcome. Actually I thought my gauge was going bad where the sender was just replaced! Thru lotsa searching I finally found a USA made sender this time. :>)

Thanks!!! There is so much that can be done with those these days. 20+ on board modules is quite common now and they all have to be accessed separately! Sure is different from the early 80's when they first came out. Recently my friend wanted to buy a truck from a car lot. I went along & brought the scanner. The guy had to come along for the ride. Lots to look at and while in transit the guy asked what I was all looking at. That can't be answered in one sentence. I told the guy I can turn the check engine light on right now if you would like! When we got back the guy seriously looked at me and asked - you didn't do anything to the truck did you? Haha, I did find several $ things that weren't disclosed and seems they knew about. Thought I'd include a LOL for ya. When you get better at running one there is all kinds of fun to be had!

Hello William. After reading your comment I think I would UPS you the snow if I had your address! (Sorry I blew up!) ;>) Nice having you stop by and a Merry Christmas to you!

We had about an inch a couple weeks ago, it melted before noon thankfully but our luck will eventually run out!

Thank you very much! :>)

The connector to the rear sender is disconnected. The green wire is connected to the gauge in the cab. By disconnecting it the gauge will stay on empty. (connector clipped to the rubber mat) By grounding it the gauge went to full. (white wire) This test shows the gauge is good, able to read the full sweep.

Sounds like the gel the needle pivots on is dried out which would make the gauge hang. Please verify before replacing with a rheostat.

Hi Chris. Yes - electric oil pressure and temp gauges all work on the same principal so this would be helpful for those too as you suspected!

2jeffs1 Thank you very much..

Connecting the gauge into the circuit will put a slight load on it. I was thinking possibly the sending unit (might be) the issue. If you had it out of the tank it could be compared to a new one. If not installed one could return if that wouldn't be the problem. Make sure the sender/tank has a good ground to start with. Another note for you. Some of the newer vehicles one has to remove the needles off the gauges to solder in new dash lamps on the circuit board. If you have one of those - did someone previously have apart and didn't replace the needles back on correctly? A few thoughts, hope this helps, Jeff.

Hi Drew. It seems there was a high speed relay that gets triggered for position 5. There is no need for the resistors on that speed.

Hi John. Kinda sounds like the float arm on the sending unit is hanging up or defective sending unit. I have had poor luck with the aftermarket/cheaper ones. Where you had your vehicle repaired it would be nice if they would stand behind their work and parts. And if the sender needs replacement again I would recommend an OE one. (original equipment) They cost more but some have been upgraded in design to be more ethanol resistant which can cause early failure certain style older type senders. Hope this helps for your bad deal going on there John, Jeff.

Being intermittent usually is a sign the sender is going bad. If possible see if there is a connector that is accessible at the tank and try to do your testing there. I read a while back that the ethanol in the gas is creating havoc on certain sending units. Some of the replacement ones coming in here have a info sheet in the box saying they have changed/upgraded the replacement part/sender to accommodate for that condition.

You want I should wash the dead bugs off your windshield?😅

@@brucethomason6354 🤣🤣🤣

I am here, you are there. Electrical is tough to.... I kinda suspect the sender, I always bench test components in to day's times where their is so much crap quality before installing....Or wrong one installed....

Wow - never heard of that one. GM does offer rebuilt instrument clusters. Perhaps check with a dealer for that problem would be your best bet. (just what no one likes to hear) ;>)

Hi Manolo. In regards to your questions. When one keeps clicking the pump after it clicks off, overfilling can cause raw fuel to enter the carbon canister and evap system especially if it would be driven a few blocks and shut off in the hot sun. Not good for that, no harm to the pump tho. If the fuel pump ever quits working sometimes hitting the bottom of the fuel tank can make it work again for a bit. Back in 2007 GM was going thru bad times and some components were of poor quality. There have been updates from the original versions if you purchase a new Delfi fuel pump module. The ethanol also has been causing issues (changed the material they are made from) and the updates also fix the erratic gas gauge issue too with a 4 finger contactor in the sending unit part of the module. Don't want to tell you to replace it that's not a lot of miles on your vehicle, most people wait until they fail to replace them, but on another note like I bet your thinking not a good feeling from the unknown and maybe just replace it in advance. Then you can have your preferred mechanic do the work instead of being on the highway some where. I would strongly recommend the Delfi v/s any other brands myself. Never had one come back yet = happy customers! I best get back to work here, good luck, Jeff.

Jeff thanks very much for your information !!

Your very welcome! Glad to help out!

Hello Fernando. Never seen or worked on that part of a fuel readout/system. There would have to be a computer in/for the cluster readout for that. Sorry, Jeff.

Haaaaaaa. mike ditKaaaa

Sounds like an instrument cluster ground issue to me. If you can access the rear of it wiggle the harness around to it when lights on. If you have a temp gauge and that works fine you might have to remove and inspect from there. (check for a break in the circuit board.) Too busy here today, hope this helps you out John, Jeff.

Forgot to say that the vehicle is a 1981 chevy c10. It does has a printed circuit behind the dash. Thanks

Was curious what you were working on. Yes, I believe that should have one. The gauges are held in the cluster with small nuts that must contact to the cb. Be careful they are fragile. Pay attention to the nuts for the f gauge and also where the main connector plugs into the cluster. At times things can look good and are not. I just had a similar issue with the D buggy. (Chev dash) Perhaps start with checking with an ohm meter from the gauge studs to the main connector. A few ideas to get you started. Good luck.

Interesting thought. Thanks. But if you have less current at one end, you have more resistance at the other. Wouldn’t you have more problems with more resistance? But maybe the senders fail mechanically long before that point. Got me thinking though, electricity, resistance, heat, fuel tank…. Wonder how dangerous all that is.

The current is so small its almost non existence, The way a fuel gauge works is by a bi-metal strip that is "heated" (pass current throw it and it heats up), with two different metals being used each one expands at different rates and thous binds. With ford the less fuel you have the less heating of the bi-metal strip and since most people drive around on part tank fulls of gas its less work for the gauge. As for the sending unit failing from heat or use it will always fail from the sweeping motion of the unit. Most interment reading problems can be traced back to a break in the printed coil on the sending unit. This is caused by wear from the sweep arm.

Hello auto uk. One should be able to command the gauge to full and empty at the tank wires. If not the problem is something more toward the front. I never have seen a fuse blow for the fuel gauge. If the rest of the instruments are working it might be the gauge. Years prior Ford was using what was called an anti slosh module which was inside the dash cluster. Not sure if they still use them but those were prone to failure. Haven't worked on that particular vehicle before. Hope this helps. Wiring issues can be challenging to chase without actually being there.

hi tahnks yeees u right fuel gauge fault thanks alot

Your very welcome!

2jeffs1

That sounds like a fuel sending unit. What sucks is that requires dropping the fuel tank. try to confirm before doing all that work.

Clever..da bears..lmao

Oh, don't chu know.