We actually want to do another one! Thanks for watching and the comment! 🙏

Definitely more than one way to do it! Glad you figured it out and hopefully that valve train runs beautifully in your car 😊🙌

@@superbimmerbros Thks again yeah it sounds a lot better after swapping the lifters around during the process lol bc when I first got the car it was tapping back, come to find out one of the lifters was really wore but after mixing them around on the rebuild you can’t even tell anymore now just that normal old rocker arm valve train symphony were use to lol.

You're very welcome! Thanks for watching 🙏 Let us know if there is anything else you want to see covered in a future vid 👍

@@superbimmerbros I'm about to attempt to restore e28 535is that has a botched m30b35 swap so I'm sure I'll have some ideas for you guys in the future 😄

@@whiskeyactual. Sounds good! Please reach out whenever and good luck! gotta love bringing these Big 6s back to life

Hello brother! We have had the same issue before, we cut a new gasket that resembles the housing to ensure oil pressure makes its way past the filter. Please let us know if we can offer any more help!

Kyle! Thanks so much for the tip! We will definitely try that next time. Thank you so much for the comment and we have to link up again soon! 🙏

Can someone elaborate on this about using the allen screw and a ratchet. Curious to how this would work.

@@krisjardine5111 it's all about friction, or more accurately stiction, which as per Google is the friction which tends to prevent stationary surfaces from being set in motion. when you are turning the hex you can spin the rocker shaft making it slide in and out much more easily as well as putting enough load on the Allen you can pull without it just falling out.

We're happy you enjoyed it! 🙏

@@superbimmerbros do you have video how to replace the radiator support on 733i?

Hey Kris! Thanks for reaching out! Yes all four are unique and should not be mixed up. If you go to realoem.com and input your vin it will notate all the part number and orientation but in short, the shafts receive oil via the head through passages that line up with the shafts as well as the rocker shaft retaining rings and springs will line up with the rocker and cam shaft to position it accordingly. Best way to figure out the orientation is to set the shafts on top of the head and visually line up the oil feed holes where the rockers go and line those up with the cam lobe. Once you identify the pattern it will be a little more obvious as to which shaft goes where. If you have any more trouble please reach out via Instagram or email and we can chat some more! 🙏

Roy thank you very much for the comment! 🙏 A couple of community members asked us to make a video and after researching any related videos we were seriously surprised the lack of videos online for it! Hopefully it helps anyone that needs a little info. We can definitely give you some pointers or even make another upload for the timing if that helps! We were wondering the same thing because, again, hardly any info on timing either. We will be getting back to you shortly Roy thanks for hanging tight 🙌

Anderson that's awesome! Those carb m30s are truly a work of art and sound incredible when tuned right. We wish you the very best of luck and hope to see and hear it. Send a video when you're done! 🙌🙌

Its a Csi.. No Carbs! Now i ll swap with another injection, do you have any suggestion?

Yes it's possible! Most if not all m30 heads are interchangeable except the early cams that use the distributor shaft. First fives has an excellent write up on the differences in cams and heads that was very useful to us when doing these swaps at home! www.firstfives.org/faq/cylinder_head/cylinder_head_faq.htm

Thanks.Email to him wouldn't work..but I'm going along n have both cams out..I'm just worried about cam valve piston interference issues..I just got my gasket kit and new head bolts so I'm still in the fixing process..thanks for any help.

Hey Aaron! Hope all is well! We can definitely help you out any way we can and hopefully get your E28 working properly. Reach out to us at superbimmerbros@gmail.com so we can exchange information and get the conversation started. Thank you for reaching out 🙏

Hey Marc! Thank you for the comment! If you are referring to removing the seal with the head still in the car then we will start by saying that we don't recommend doing this but if you would like to tackle it this way you will have to remove the retaining clips for the rockers and try and move them out of the way and make sure the piston is top dead center for the seals that you are trying to replace otherwise you will drop the valve in the combustion chamber. Once you remove the springs you should be able to replace them. If you are dead set on doing it this way we have to say that it is not worth the hassle and potential of damaging the head or dropping valves in the combustion chamber. We strongly recommend removing the head and giving it a full refresh even if it just seals, rocker plugs and cam seal/orings. Its also well worth giving the valves a once over and lap job to ensure you have good sealing to maximize that power 👍

😂😂👍

Hey bill! You should be good to go on that swap as they should be using the same engine variant so long as it hasn't been swapped without you knowing but even then you shouldnt have any issues unless it is using a head from a e12 or something that has a different chamber shape. Best of luck bill let us know how it goes!

@superbimmerbros thank you..I sure will so far its looking good.and thanks

Hey John! Thanks for the comment and question. And that's a big YES. The more that you can do to refresh, the better. As long as you get the head skimmed by your favorite machinist you should be good for another lifetime haha. How was the compression before blowing? Might be worth doing a rebuild if you have the time and budget!

Hello! Thanks for the comment. We might have a b34 camshaft in our inventory! Send us an email at superbimmerbros@gmail.com and we will look for you and quote you 🙌 i don't believe it is possible to do the removal while the head is on the car however we have never done this so we can't speak for everyone. It is better to have it removed to at least refresh the stem seals and maybe cut the seats 😊

Uh oh! Sounds like its on there pretty tight. It typically isn't a corrosion issue rather than a stripping issue however try a little heat first before hitting it with the impact. If that STILL doesn't work, spray the shaft down with some brake cleaner to remove the oil and cover the shaft with some clean thick rags, now, using a pair of standard vice grips grab a hold of the shaft with just enough force to grip it but not too much that it spins and scores the shaft. Be very delicate. This tends to work for us but please do it at your own risk! We hope this helps 🙏

@@superbimmerbros Thanks. I thought about the vice grips tactic too but was too afraid that i would break it so I had to ask. Ill try this evening where Im getting with it👍🏼

@@waltsuwaltsu7965 how’d it work out? Mine did the same

@@bobsagit10 It worked out well, used only the vice grip technique👌🏼

Hey ken! Could you enlighten us on the tool? All we see in a Google search are torture devices hahaha

@@superbimmerbros it’s a tool you use to be able to buy or build. Basically the tool allows you to press on all the rockers at once so you can easily slide the cam out. A must for any BMW shop or anyone who deals with M30s often

@@superbimmerbros there’s a video on KZfaq. Here’s the link kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kKeXo9mh1trHqWw.html

From Maine, I would love this info too. You have a m30 tear down and a m20 rebuild. Please help

Hey thanks for the question! The tapping comes from the space/clearance between the top of the valve and the adjustable eccentric. If the ticking persists after a valve adjustment then there is excessive wear on the top of the valves caused by the eccentric. You will have to either service the head or adjust spacing between the camshaft and rocker but we don't recommend this approach. Be advised that light ticking is normal and if you're not used to listening to these tappet style engines it may sound odd as hydraulic lifters tend to make little to no noise compared to the m30 and m20

That helped a lot thank you I know the ticking is normal but it’s getting a little to loud so my next approach will be a valve adjustment and thicker oil Loved the video btw might be the most detailed video I’ve seen on engine

on this engine

You're very welcome and we hope to help more in the future! We have definitely had our fair share of frustrating ticking problems haha! Have a great day and best of luck with your chariot 🙌