You should use reinforced springs for the fork. Much longer and no spacers.

If ever the impact wrench/broom trick does not work on those bottom bolts, I've had success making up a fork tool - by tack welding a proper sized bolt (head down) on the end of suitably long and narrow diameter steel rod. Fits right in there. Cheers!

On my Sherco trials bike I could change the fork seals without disassembling the forks. Take off the dust seal and the fork seal circlip and clean the recess as best you can with the seal still inside. Empty the fork oil as best you can through the drain, or top of the fork. Put the fork leg in a vice (use a rag or soft jaws to protect the chrome) and gently heat the area slightly around the seal, unscrew the cap and valve from the top of the forks and push a compressed air nozzle against a small oring to seal it and pump air into the fork. The seal should pop out. Make sure you have a rag wrapped tightly around end of the fork where the fork seal is, because it pops off with a bang and residue oil comes out behind it under pressure. You can then thoroughly drain the oil, refit the new seals, circlip, seal dust caps and add fresh oil, and the job is done. wear safety goggles because if the oil hits you in the face it is no joke. The first time I did this I didn't wrap a rag around it, and sprayed myself and the inside of the garage with dirty fork oil. 😂😂😂