Glad it helps!

Got a question, I do repousse work in silver, and it would be impractical to in lay after the repousse work is complete. It would also be impractical to do the inlay before the repousse work is started, unless the inlay is soldered. If I solder the inlay, will I run into problems while pushing the silver into shape.

Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching 😁

oh shit.... this sam has asthma too! lol, I swear every sam I know has asthma, like me lol

No worries, glad it helped!

Cheers mate! The reason you don't see cutting fluids in use in engraving is twofold, there isn't normally appreciable drag on the tool to need the lubrication, and it obscures the path of the tool. Whatever small amount of longevity it would add to the tool isn't worth not being able to see what you're doing clearly. It's hard enough without@

Great questions! For a "square graver" I'm assuming that you're talking about a flat edged chisel. In most cases I'm shooting for a 60 degree included angle, that seems to offer the best strength to cutting performance in any chisel, so if the faces are 45 then the heels are 15. I may drop the angle to a minimum of 50 and raise it to a Max of 75 if I'm cutting softer or harder materials. 45 degree faces with 15 degree heels seems to work for pretty much any material well enough though.

@@SamTownsBladesmith Beautiful, thank you mate, yeah the flat edged chisel sorry, Ive been trying to nail the geometry on one of mine but seems theres all different schools of thought on geometry depending on whether you use air assisted tools, push gravers, or chasing them with a hammer, this is perfect though, very much appreciated and thanks for replying!

You only fail when you stop trying. A good way to learn is to practice on scrap materials. His instruction is superb continue to watch as you practice. To make turns turn the chisel and follow the scribed line, (only on scrap material until you get the hang of it.) and if you keep trying you will get the hang of it. There is one technique that you must learn, (he's not showing) setting at the bench the work should be at the right height a little above the naval, but more important is the position of the hammering arm, when you strike the chisel the elbow should be held high in line with the shoulder, this will help prevent the hammer from glancing away from the chisel.🙂. PS. Notice the chisel, on occasion it jumps out of the groove, that's because the hammer glance away from the head of the chisel head, this will happen to the best of us. You cannot watch the hammer and the cutting part of blade at the same time, you must watch the cutting blade of the chisel Don't try to watch the hammer and most people when starting attempt to watch the hammer instead of the work being done. Hope this helps. 🙂 Got one more PS for ya, it's important to use the proper hammer, a chasing hammer. Maybe you know where to get supplies, In case you don't try Rio Grande Silversmith suppliers. 👍

I make them myself, I have a video on my channel!

Depends on the composition of the blade. If I were to want to inlay into a blade I would probably do a butt-welded construction of wrought iron or mild steel and high carbon, engrave and inlay after heat treat. For monosteel it is almost impossible to engrave and inlay after heat treat

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@@SamTownsBladesmith thanks for explaining. And Great video sir.

@@davidunger1173 no worries, thanks for watching!