You can get the Moisture Meter here - amzn.to/3j5bRvq

You need to split before measuring moisture

Aloha! A measure of my loyalty to this channel… I am in Hawaii but still watched this video 😂 🌴

Good advice. I always try to stay 2yrs ahead and I know that's crazy but it ensures you will probably be ok no matter what.

If the exterior of the wood is testing at 20%. The interior is no where near that. Split your firewood in half an dtest the very center. That gives you a far truer reading.

Hello from Kentucky, new subscriber here. Very informative video, I burn wood as my primary heat source and just bought my first new saw cause I'm tired of paying for it. . I have alot of places to cut wood where I live due to loggers leaving behind wood they don't sale as logs so I'm fortunate to be able to gather my own firewood here but just learning about moisture content, best way to store green wood to get it seasoned fast so I find your videos very helpful. I'll be watching many more of them and continue to try to keep up to learn as much as possible. Your never too old to learn new things. Thanks for sharing

I saw a German video where the guy did a thorough experiment over a couple of years. He did basically what you said to maximise drying, and tested a few logs (i.e. the same, numbered, logs) every so often with the moisture meter and weighed them and recorded the data. He found that using those methods the logs were all below the moisture threshold by winter time. There was no advantage to keeping them any longer. After the end of the first summer the moisture content only fluctuated a small amount with a wet/humid spell making the logs re-absorbe some moisture. The bottom line, cut before the sap rises, cut and split straight away into smaller logs, stack in a ventilated shed in separated stacks, and you have very dry wood the next burning season.

Yep. Excellent advice on the cutting and splitting as well. Stacking made simple.... Keep the rain off. and let as much air through as possible.

Excellent tips. Very helpful as I am a new wood stove owner/user.

great video, excellent explanations around all aspects of the topic. Appreciate your time

Great advice on stacking several tightly together to get a longer burn time out of the same volume of wood. I'll try that tonight!

Thanks for sharing your excellent tips!

I purchased the same meter for myself and my son. Nice tool especially if you're buying "Dry" firewood.

I live in NS> Canada, drying season is short. We put our wood all into the basement end of October. Put about 6 cords down there for winter burn, put dehumidifier down there for about a month. Goes from 18-20 % down to12-14 in a month. November you have perfect wood.

Great process you have. Thanks for sharing it. Greetings from the UK - Northumberland in England to be precise.

GREAT video,loved it guys!!!!!!!!

Great tip on the heartwood, I have noticed this as well, the exact center of the tree needs to be split up into pieces or it will take much longer to dry (like 2x as long!) I was going to work on some other stuff today... but after watching this, its firewood time!!! :D

This was fantastic. Thanks

Great advice which once you've heard it, as usual, feels like you should have known it all along! Much appreciated, thank you, the first thing I'm doing at the weekend, is splitting my wood into thinner shorter pieces and stacking with more airflow gaps. Hopefully no mouldy wood anymore!

its so easy ... I get 2 to 3 years ahead on split stacked off the ground wood..split smaller to dry faster..can stack it in the stove to burn better and fits better then big rounds

Keep up the good work, I’ve been doing it just like this for years. Wood is ready by winter and have a wood rack in the wood stove area that holds 3 days of wood in cold New England weather conditions . The heat from the stove and dry conditions also sucks the moisture out of that stack.

Getting enough wood cut ahead for proper seasoning is always a challenge. At least for me it is. The smaller you split it the faster it will dry. I also have found that the sun will play a big part in rapid drying. In my area there is less rain from July to Sept. and good sun with air flow, making for good drying conditions. I then cover the top for winter use,. Keep in mind that the wood is stacked in rows. pilled wood will not dry in the center. Like you say some woods are dryer when cut than others. Ash and walnut come to mind. When I check for moisture of dried wood I like to split the wood and check it on the inside. Wood dries from the outside in. If my probes only penetrates 1/4 of an inch I am only testing the outside of the wood. You have good advice. This is just my 2 cents.

Thank you! Appreciate you!

Wood needs 3 elements to season properly: (1) Sun, (2) Wind, (3) Time. You are handicapping yourself. Stack wood outside uncovered in the sun and wind to season. In the fall move to cover.

Good tips. I use an old corn-crib for wood storage. I've found it has great airflow, and it has a tin roof, which really helps to keep it nice and hot in there on the sunny, summer days.

There are quite a few issues with this approach. 1. No air flow 2. Where is the moisture going? 3. Wood is messy stuff and will leave debris, insects, cobwebs, etc. in dark corners of your nice clean garage 4. The wood needs stacking very carefully or those thin walls of wood will be unstable and dangerous. 5. Space in a garage is always going to be very limited compared to how much wood you will need to heat a house right through the winter. I stopped storing wood in my garage 25 years ago and built two large wood stores in the garden. They are lined top, bottom and sides with damp proof membrane and the ends are left open. Each stores about 20 cubic metres of wood (mostly ash, cherry, birch). I use one a season and refill it during the spring months, so all the wood has nearly two years to season. I don’t find I have to leave air gaps inside the wood stack - just pack the split logs in to create a stable stack and there will still be plenty of air flow between the open ends. I don’t use a moisture meter because I can tell just by the look and feel of the wood that it is ready to burn. Key factors are air flow, keeping the rain off, preventing condensation and time.

Great video ! yes high humidity area like yours, a lot of extra work, way north where I am it's much lower, a lot of popular in my parts I cut green I usually fell in Jan-Feb and try to have it all split & stacked by the end of May, June, July the hotter months is is amazing how fast it dry's by Dec it burns awesome, bigger pieces I do like to leave dry a full year if im selling it,

Removing the bark helps the wood dry faster as well as the bark is designed to insulate the tree and prevent moisture from escaping.

Would a fan help with moving air around? I could see a couple of the tower fans blowing down between the rows getting air really moving.

Another good one Pastor Todd. 👍 I don't think that the sound quality's bad 🤔

I am finding yout that in US you have different aproach in wood heating then we in central europe. We use indoor boilers all the time and acumulate heat into huge water tanks. Then regulate how much of hot water gets into radiators . It is much more complicated and sophistacated, but has got advantages too

Thank you for the tips

I thought it was against the fire code to so this. " It's advisable to keep your firewood storage at least 30 feet away from your home or any other structures, according to the National Fire Protection Association. This is crucial in minimizing the risk of fire spreading to your home, especially in the dry season when firewood can easily catch fire."

Novice here... so dead trees better as already not up taking water to support canopy?

Like termites? Stacking too close to home sure is risky.

Link to your splitter? How long have you had it? I've had some good luck with one from Harbor Freight

I can’t get my firewood below 18%. It goes down to 14% and then straight up to 18-20% when it gets damp outside.

Add a solar fan or two

I'm not sure if the area you are storing your wood in is a garage that is separate or attached to a house, but wouldn't bringing all that wood in there introduce wood ants, bugs, etc. into your home?

hi there well i am a bit late but interesting .john

Need to test moisture on a fresh split or cut.

I think what may help a lot is to split them in to more flat shape. Because this rectangle shape has got more surface area/volume ratio. Which makes for better drying. Instead of round or square shape "crosscut" which would have more volume. May work in case of need to make it dry faster

Stacking wood inside...what about carpenter ants?

How many cords of wood do you burn in a typical winter? I live in south east Michigan. I’m getting a wood burner next year. I want to know how many cords I need to get? Thank you for the video.

How do i find out what the homesteading laws are in Michigan

You didn't remove the bark that attracts and holds moisture

You can get termites if your wood is too close to your house

Wonder if a fan would hep lower the water content???

Cool Tool ! Was wondering how you knew % moisture!

Can you stack it in the sun under clear plastic for faster drying?

West Coast of BC here. We stack the pieces outside in a row facing our dryest wind for 2 summers stacking loosely for better wind. We use plastic sheet when it's rainy.A carport would need fan use here. The meter should be used on a recently cut surface--the minute beforehand--where you'd get the wettest sample

Will do some searching online myself. Don't see the link for the moisture testing.

You have to split and measure the core

are you seeing mold in your garage. You have created a perfect enviornment to destroy your home. A huge volume of water that remains for a long time. Also the moisture meter is being used wrong. With a pin type meter they are designed to measure across the grain and not into the end grain but a flat face. The deeper u go the wetter be the wood. May i sugguest that you plug a fan in and try to promote dry as u can feel the coolness from the evapro of the water from the wood. ( think swamp cooler) I am not knockin ya but pointing out things that need to be covered. also to get accurate measurements the different species of wood need to be corrected.

You are using the moisture meter wrong on the front piece picture.

Wood will not season completely if you leave the bark on the split wood' always remove the bark before stacking!

Measure the inside after splitting not the outside and you will find differend results.

I wouldn’t dry wood that close to the house as some of that wood has woodworm holes in it

Love your channel brother but the audio is poor quality...echoes and scratchey

Praise the LORD, brother.

Frontpiece and video depicts moisture meter being used incorrectly.

Why don't you check out selling that beautiful wood to guitar makers or manufacturers. The big logs when cut into slabs are worth a fortune. Your oak,cherry,ash and maple are sought after. And black walnut is a fortune.

From the notification picture you're testing it on the wrong side, split it and poke it in the middle on the long side, not the cut off side

If I was going to show how to use a moisture meter I would at least read the instructions first.

C'mon. If you seriously heat with wood, learn to know HOW to tell if your firewood is seasoned. Besides, moisture meters are NOT accurate and vary. Stack in the open with sun, wind, air. Cottonwood or Poplar is useless unless that's all that's around. Here's how to know. 1. Look for cracked/checked ends. 2. Firewood will gray and/or change color 3. When dry two splits will "ring" like a ball bat. And 4. the splits will be lighter than when green. Do you heat with wood or heat "up from" your furnace or mini split set at say 65 F ? Expert or simply KZfaqr? Bill is in the mail.

wow you pack your gurage full up to the celing with wood

u hve lot help u girls u great family

dont you get lots of bugs from storing firewood in side

you need 10 cords of wood

you pack you whole gurage full of wood