A good way to expose properly your image is by using the Zebras. You can set two custom Zebras on Sony Cameras. Set one for your subject (at around 50-55%) and another for the highlights so to make sure you wont clip your highlights (for Slog3 94%)

Correct. Using the in-built meter is not the correct way to expose correctly for slog video. False color or zebras is the way.

@@BrewReview A better, but expensive way is to use EL Zone. It is better because EL Zone now uses stop values instead of IRE. Unfortunately, currently only Small HD monitors are using EL Zone and those monitors are expensive, especially if you are just starting out

@@BrewReview Also, technically its not advisable to overexpose by raising ISO because it also changes your middle grey as shown by technical charts by the cameras of BMD (not sure about Sony if they released middle grey charts) and so, noise floor also changes. So what it really means by exposing is exposing your image to more light so its either by opening more your Iris, shutter angle (not advisable because it will affect motion blur) or by adding more light. Honestly, from my experience, its actually not needed because the noise floor of Slog3 (at least on Sony a7s III) is already low. Its just for safety measures especially on low light scenes.

How do you do this? Been trying to expose properly, I have Sony fx3

Same here brother

Same smh

The secret is just shoot NORMAL and not worry about color grading. Pain in the butt

Have you figured this out? I’ve seen that you should be using one of the native iso (800 and 3200) for my a74. However, I’m always under exposed

Slog3 is great because it is able to get more dynamic range but at the cost of noise.

Do you ever use an ND filter?

@@gemwebb 100% all the time

Woot 😄

Offset is actually the ideal way to start adjusting exposure in post because its one of the primaries. Macro beats micro. You will be more efficient in grading especially if it was shot with a good Cinematographer/DOP. With Log profiles and with proper color management, you wont easily crush shadows unless you intentionally do it or it actually is the intention of the cinematographer and the director when they shot it. Also I recently learned that, while there is no stopping you from doing it, its not actually advisable to overexpose the image using ISO because it will actually move the middle grey and the noise floor of the image and also lowers dynamic range the higher the ISO. Yes, it will net you a cleaner image but compromises the things I've mentioned. Instead, if you must overexpose the image for whatever reason (mostly for a cleaner image) then add more light or choose a better location that has good lighting then use an ND filter. In fact, I've met several DOP's and many of them actually used the 2nd native ISO of their cameras for brighter scenes as long as they have the proper ND filter for it.

Look on Sonys site for its native iso

Ignore dudes comment, 800 and 3200 are the dual isos for the a7iv. There are quite a few KZfaq low iso tests that people have been experimenting with also. Hope this helps rather than someone telling you to go look on sonys site lol

Exactly. I’ve set my iso to auto. It’s not perfect in some cases but you can fire and forget. I use a ND filter and iso auto

Haha sweet man! 🙏💪

following xD

I do this for weddings! The only thing to keep in mind is is if the M.M. starts blinking and if your ISO is extremely high hah

L

If your iso gets to the 9000 range you’ll have lots of noise. So you have to pay close attention it’s better to get it up to the 12800 for the dual native to kick in. So in low light I set mine at 12800 and mess with f

A7siii

No for HLG2 just expose normally

@@Henbu do I need Gamma Disp. Assist when using HLG2, color mode 709 on my A7iii?

@@renzoviteri did you find the answer ?

@@albertbernal7434 no 👎🏼

I was wondering this as well, but then you have only shutter and aperture, and if you don’t do the double shutter thing you mess with the motion blur, so you’re only left with aperture to tweak

800 base ISO and 3200 second base for a7iv.

For Slog 3 on a7iv - yes. You can go higher if you really really need. That will introduce more noise. Other Pictures Profile have different base ISO levels. There are charts online for each picture profile what are the recommended iso.

@@ChestiiPrinAmerica base iso for a7iv is 400 bro

@@electronicfellows2113 which picture profile? I state for slo3

Get the a7siii or fx3 if your doing serious video work and don't want any overheating.

Thanks brotha💪

No difference!’

I just made the jump from a7iii to a7iv too. Was debating and researching for a year. IM SO HAPPY I DID lol. Its such an incredible camera

@@revivebasketball same for me!

You can use Media Encoder to make them smaller file sizes if that's what you're asking!

I have the same question!!

Cranking ISO is not really recommended above its base ISO (640 and 12800 for A7s3) because your image will be noisier and it will have lesser dynamic range the more you crank your ISO. Its either ISO 640 and ISO 12800. If using those ISO you are still underexpose then open up your aperture, and if you are already wide open and still underexposed, then raise the intensity of your lights if you are using one. Also theres a misunderstanding regarding the exposure. When cinematographers said that you need to overexpose, its not in relation to the frame/image, but in relation to the recommended exposure of Sony which is 41% Middle Grey. Gerald Undone made a great video explaining and demonstrating this. Basically 41% middle grey would result to underexposure if you have a human subject especially people with lighter skin which should be exposed at least 55% IRE on normal lighting. Of course when underexposed, you will raise up your exposure in post, and in turn will also raise up the noise floor, thus resulting to noisier image. If exposed correctly, like exposure based on Ansel Adam's Zone System or Ed Lachman's, then with a proper color management if you are using Davinci Resolve, or using official transform LUT from Sony themselves, then your noise will be pushed down. From my experience in using A7S III, you actually dont need to overexpose it anymore as long as you wont lift up your exposure on post. Though to be safe, if you are on a scene with much shadows, then you could overexpose it a little bit but I already tried exposing it normally (no overexposure) and I still got a clean image. I even tried exposing a subject at 45% IRE (night scene and simulating a moonlight scene so intentionally underexposed) and I still have a clean image. There will be noise but you can only see it if you pixel peep like at 300% magnification lol