Thanks man. Straight to the point

Thank you for making it easy to understand.

Love the enthusiasm and energy dude nice video

Thank You!!! Never ever put a clamp on the rubber hose,as many other youtube posts show. ,,,,just leave the brake fluid reservoir cap on and loose a few drops of fluid,,,,,,it will be dirty at caliper end and needs to flush out and be replaced with new fluid.

Very good video. Thanks for sharing

Great explanation thank you!

I worked my way back up the system on an older car to see where the blockage was, of course after I replaced the hose assuming it was blocked. Turned out it was the ABS unit on that one wheel randomly sticking, likely due to nobody regularly flushing the fluid over the years. Since the unit worked fine other than releasing pressure I tried back flushing and sucking with a syringe and hose on the bladder (edit:bleeder) valve at the caliper. Not a correct fix but it helped solve the problem on a $75+beer van for the last 30,000 miles.

Yes I agree . Watch out for Hose Check Valve ..

thnx man. i learned from this video

Great video brilliant 👏

The way u touch the part and explain reminds me of my medical school dissection 😂

Good info.

I thought it was because of my thick new pads, it wouldn't move when I tighten the sliding pin, I haven't diagnosed it like that, thanks for this informative video.

Very informative!

good video! good explanation. I also see video's where the Mechanic performs a test by pressing on the brake a few times (i assume with the key in power position) and then opening the bleeder valve. If fluid squirts out with high pressure. then, you have a broken hose that is acting like a check valve. is this true??

That's nice bro

I had a brake caliper locking up really bad on my Jeep Patriot. I tried this test first, and there was no big squirt of fluid. Actually, really no fluid at all came out. So I replaced the caliper. Brand new caliper with me pins already in it and new pads. Two days later, it's locking up again. I haven't bled that line yet. I assume now that the hose is bad, but it passed the test that you suggest in this video.

I've had this problem off and on for awhile where if I brake from 40+ mph, I'll get a hard pull to the right. It doesn't happen every time. I recently changed out the caliper, rotor, and brakes and hoped that would fix it, but it hasn't. When a bled the brakes after installing the new caliper, I didn't notice any flow issues on that side. The only odd thing I noticed was the rotor felt loose against the hub but figured that wouldn't be an issue once I got the wheel back on. So I'm pretty much stumped on what the issue could be

Thank lord i found this quarantine= no car shops open

Thanks

Seems like it's always the passenger front hose that goes bad.. I have had 3 older trucks have that exact same issue, for me it was line that was bad, from 2004 and up, unless the vehicle was abused, rarely does the caliper go bad, it's mostly the lines..

I am asking for an 86K mile 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0L I6 engine. Because the ABS light came on in June, I decided to start working on my brakes. I replaced the front disks and pads and test drove around the neighborhood ~5 miles ok. On the following day I drove it on the freeway (60 - 70 mph) for a total of about 50 minutes, making 2 stops along the way. Everything was fine until on my return trip home the front brakes locked up with smoking and a bad odor. Steering seemed to pull to the left. Can a fault in the ABS system cause this?

I have a weird issue with opposite corners sticking (LF & RR) on an 06 Santa Fe. I didn't realize the RR was sticking until I replaced the LF caliper and the problem persisted. The weird part is when I cracked the bleeder on the LF, it released both at the exact same time. It was on the ground and I heard the rear as it shifted slightly (yes, I'm using chocks/safety equip, etc). Master cyl? ABS HCU? No lights. Bulb check good, no codes. Will update as I dig in.

I have all the symptoms of a bad brake hose yet when I open the bleeder fluid comes out so I don't know if it really is the brake hose or something else

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated recently change the break pads and rotors and caliper on the right passenger side caliper keeps locking up don't know if it's the break booster or the break line any advise is greatly appreciated

I have a 06 ford focus replaced master cylinder because lost pressure and gained it back now it just bled the brakes and they are still spongy bled it a few different way when you first hit the pedal it’s spongy and after a few pumps it’s good I’m lost

need to ask a question. over the past year we have replaced the break pads 4 times. We replaced the caliper 2 times. Replaced the rotor on the same side. This was all on the Driver Side Front of a 2016 Jeep wrangler Sport. The problem is first noticed when I feel the jeep has a pulling feeling when driving. It starts to overheat and I can smell a burining smell. My same Tire has Break dust all over it. I need help diagnosing this. Could this be a Hose or Master cylender? My husband said he check the hose. I know a little about maintnance on my jeep. It seems like It is something else besides the caliper and the break pad.

The bleeder on my front right is broken off and the wheel absolutely will not turn unless I give it a LOT of gas on the ground. Can I just disconnect the banjo fitting and see if it then turns that way? Also my front left side spins freely when I use my hand but doesn't continue spinning if I let go. Is this normal?

I just recently changed all my lines because i brought a car from up North and they were rusted but i went to start at the back right and took bleeder screw all the way out and nothing.....is it my house because it seems like it .....2005 Cadillac STS

After changing my brakes, a few days later a grinding noise came about, took the caliper off and discovered the piston was stuck, replaced that, bled the brakes , and brake fluid was coming out of the brake line, but the grinding noise is still there, but I did notice when I washed the car , the grinding noise went away while the tire and brake area was wet but can back again once it dried? Any suggestions??

So what’s your thoughts on this ? I just changed my cars rotors and pads and calipers on the front and left side. I have a Chevy Malibu 2004. The issue I’m having now is the car is still locking up. I can barely get the car to move from a stop sign. The tires get extremely hot to the point smoke 💨 is coming out of the driver side. Like it’s about to catch fire. I never changed the hose. The brakes are hard as hell. When I release my foot off the brake you can hear creeking of the caliper releasing slowly but surely. So do you believe it is the hose that’s causing all this chaos ? Thank you

I have a 2018 hyundai elantra I put new brakes rotors and calipers on both sides and it still pulls to the left at hard brake and the wheel on the right side is warmer the left said so what hose is it thanks for reading

I don't quite follow. It's very late at night for me so could just be my tired brain. Doing a full caliper and hose replace but I'm trying to figure out which is the issue. Piston was stuck against the rotor. Hard to reset even with a wood clamp. Bleeder was slow to start draining. When caliper was disconnected from the hose, the hose drupped consistent for about 10 minutes before I hooked it back up. So is the hose bad? Or the caliper? Or a combo

Hey boss I replaced the 2 front calipers and bled the brake lines. And the pads are only a couple months old. My brakes are still smoking after driving for a while and my pedal is hard. I’m thinking booster or brake line.

Should the brake fluid reservoir cap be loosened before loosening the bleeder?

What if you get a squirt of fluid and the rotor turns, but you still can't compress the caliper with a tool to fit new pads in?

My Chevy HD I’m dealing with this, changed the steering box a few days ago, than my front studs broke changed those, now my brakes are completely locking up glowing red with the ABS light on. I just changed the calipers 6 months ago but it did sit for a month before I changed the steering box, another thing the power brake booster is intertwined with the steering system and it was very hard to bleed the steering after I changed the box, after going through 8 quarts of power steering fluid by cracking the lines while pumping the brakes and steering the wheel I used google and found out that I had to turn the truck off, leave the power steering tank open and slowly pump the brakes 15x than slowly turn the wheel 15x and it worked and I got my steering back. Now I’m having this brake problem with both from brakes. I’m wondering if I screwed something up bleeding the powersteering/brake booster system. I changed the pads because the sticking calipers destroyed them in a day, the pistons were hard to set in but as soon as I got them moving they sucked right in and I could even feel the fluid shooting back into the brake lines. I’ll try the brake hoses because no way 2 brand new calipers can be shot 6 months later. I’m just wondering if it’s not the hose, and not the calipers, would the brake booster or abs do this? Also when the brakes get stuck the pedal is very hard. I’m actually pretty sure the vibration from the sticking calipers is what caused my studs to snap. This truck is an over all pain in the a$$.

Hey maybe you’re able to figure this one out lol. So After putting 4 (new/reman) calipers on my 2008 F350. The driver side wheel seized up/wouldn’t spin unless I opened the bleeder. I’ve put 3 calipers on that front driver side since thinking it was a defect. I really think it’s the brake hose like you said acting like a “check valve” & allowing the pressure to run to the caliper but won’t allow it to come back and release. What are your thoughts. Also, when hitting the brakes my truck will pull hard to the right as if the left driver side front isn’t working at all? Any help would be much appreciated!!

Hey man installed coilovers on my accord and now when I turn fully left or right my break seems to loose like pressure to it, it’s not rubbing or anything could it be related to the break hose. It’s only when turning tho never when straight

I have a 2004 Acura TSX, i replaced my caliper to a new one because the rear left caliper piston was stuck. After replacing it, its still stuck. I had trouble bleeding the line because it wouldnt bleed properly. Only when i really give the pedal some force it forces the fluid through but even then just a small amount of brake fluid comes out. After i replaced the pads, I was able to get the pads to grip the rotors by pressing pretty hard on the brake pedal but after it grips, its not releasing that pressure and it stays stuck. The brake hose looks fine, and i never crimped it with any tool. Do i need to go return this caliper or do you think it could be the brake hose?

I have a 08 c300 & no fluid will come out of the bleeder valve when trying to bleed but when i removed the bleeder screw fluid dizzled out...bad caliper hose or bleeder screw?

I always replace the seal and piston, much cheaper and you keep your original parts.

If the brake goes back to normal if you let it sit over night would that usually be an indication it's hose related or do caliper issues also tend to go away if the vehicle is cold?

Can a bad hose have the opposite effect? ie; the fluid is failing to move the piston? Yes I did clamp said hose with a vice grips....

And so if the hose was restricted and keeping force on the piston a lot of fluid would have squired out from the bleeder. Someone in another video mentioned to always replace the hose with the caliper. I never heard of that.

What about if you loose the fitting and nothing comes out? I removed the hose from the caliper and nothing comes out, only when I press the brake pedal the brake oil comes out and release the pedal and nothing comes out from the hose? What's the problem?

My driver side is dragging and pulling also on driver side fuild did not come out until the car was on which is weird would it be a bad hose

Okay. Does the car need to be off to bleed the brakes?

Replace caliper? Slide pins would probably do the trick...

Does it stop from squeaking

When I go to bleed the breaks no air or fluid comes out of the brake line what should I do?

yeah, that's one way to tell if you have a bad brake hose, but can't they also swell, and cause a spongy pedal?

Hose was good. Should be called how you tell if the caliper is bad.

Good video you just didn’t explain what happens when the brake hose is not okay, which In turn leads a customer most of the time to replace every brake component and still have their brakes drag, and then finally the tech starts looking for else where and maybe finds that it was just a messily 5 dollar brake hose causing all the issue to begin with. That info will never be shared with the customer and you have to turn around and convince your Customer that everything they have replaced was a direct correlation to their problem..knowing damn well it wasn’t. I’m writing not as a customer but a tech..this issue is well over looked

haha... calm down please !

dude didnt even diagnos the caliper! customers car is still pulling. but great guess work. maybe next time check the caliper first when the hose looks mint

This video is wrong guys- if it comes out the bleeder, it’s the hose