Naomi 'SexyCyborg' Wu thank you!

I’m glad I could help.

Matthew Morgan I’m glad it was helpful!

I’m glad it was helpful.

Ethan Carter you know I’ll help you if you do get one.

I’m glad I could help.

Michael Brindle thanks Mike!

Harasi you’re welcome.

LOL, so I'm not the only one watching this while waiting for mine to arrive. Hopefully it'll be here today or tomorrow. I hope yours worked out well for you.

You’re welcome.

armand powell never thought of it like that.

I’m glad I could help.

george elder you’re welcome.

Thanks for watching!

Clifford Tyree you have to assign the speeds and powers to each color. It’s a little different depending on the machine you’re using and the software it works with.

Greg's Garage the download file should help a lot. Best of luck!

@@MakerExperiment Got it/them. I'll dedicate a night to creating a solid test file this week. Seems like a smart thing to do right out of the gate with a new laser. Thanks again!

Greg's Garage you’re welcome

Kristina Rodriguez you’re welcome

Thanks for subscribing!

Danish 3D Printing you’re welcome.

It’s actually a percentage on a scale from 0 to 100. My machine runs off percentages.

It should be similar.

Glad that you found it helpful.

You’re welcome.

Yes, you will.

Use vegetable tan leather if you’re using it on a laser. I get mine from District Leather Supply. I have an affiliate link for it here. I think it saves you 10% on your first order. districtleathersupply.com/makerexperiment

Ed Castanon I run mine at 100% power without any issues. The machine should be capable.

Its ok for more expensive lasers like he has but not for Chinese ones. Stick to about 80% to be safe

If you look on my channel I made a video about making stencils. It may help you.

I have not done it on a mirror. What do you mean by an engraving test for purchase? Do you mean a sample engraved swatch?

Dave Bakke it’s in the video description.

Harasi it’s usually just a masking tape type masking. You can also use transfer tape.

Maria Johnston you’d load it into lightburn I believe. I don’t have that laser or software so I’m not familiar with your setup.

At the time I did this it was manually. I don’t know if a program exists or not.

Try Peterman Lumber.

@@MakerExperiment Thanks So Much! Do you also have a source for acrylic sheets? Those fluorescent ones look pretty sweet for some projects.

@@oscartakahashi8230 check eplastics

Usually, details in the engraving depend a lot on the DPI. Slowing it down may help, but that’s not necessarily correlated for everything. If I want more detailed engraving, I usually increase the DPI vs slowing down the speed.

@@MakerExperiment Thank you very much. I do 500DPI but will try this matrix and see high speed results better to compare. Fantastic help.

@@MakerExperiment Just one question, actually how do you preset so many different settings for just 10colors? In my Epilog I can only set one speed and power per color. So I would need to present 100 different colors or do each manually?

Ted do one row at a time and use 10 colors at a time.

@@MakerExperiment cheers that's what i started with now. Thank you very much once again. Super

I use Adobe Illustrator. You can engrave whole rows at a time.

It’s an application tape I get from Tape Depot. I take a piece of painters tape and try to lift them off. Otherwise I have to pick it off little by little.

Thanks mate. So there is no easy way out but pulling the pimples off. Did this on pmma ran several tests and it was a hell I created for myself. Have about 500 letters to clean... I think I will improve my airblast system to probably blow away the vapor before it condenses. Any experience with that? I found out that it helps to keep the bed and specimen warm.

@@iloveaviation-burgerclub-a8145 I’m not sure how well it will work. I’m not familiar with that method.

Well, will drop a line if it does. Thanks for your input mate.

@@iloveaviation-burgerclub-a8145 you’re welcome.

Epilog uses speed percentage, not mm/sec

Do you mean you can’t use the file to engrave because it uses material you don’t have to spare or you can’t get the grid to work?

You would almost need to look at the picture that you are engraving at every power & speed combination to tell which one give the best results.

@@AQUASCAN1 yeah, that’s a hard one to figure out without just trying.

@@AQUASCAN1 , HI Robert, the image should be black and white changing the contrast is how you get the the image to display as it will on the granite, make a dark a back background in you software and put the image on top of the background, the image may need to be made negitave to see the engraved look. remove the back ground and print the image low DPI (the negitave image) In my experience engraving on black acrylic the engraving goes lighter than the black acrylic. i would set the laser to low power and high speed print a small image , then change the laser to low power and medium speed print the same image, then low power low speed same image. then repeat with medium and high power. my guess is medium power and high speed and maybe put rub n buff silver or gold on the lasered surface. hope that helps. Roy

With that machine I’m not sure. You’ll have to run your own tests with speeds and powers to try and figure it out. The distance from the head should be a standard focal length based on your lens and dialed in for your machine.

Because on the first grid I do a speed range of 10-100 by 10s. That didn’t cut through so the last row is speed of 1-10 by 1s.

@@MakerExperiment Thanks!

@@DavZell you’re welcome.

It was for this material. Usually I use 3-4oz for most of my projects that are leather.

I will look into this. I may have moved it. I will check and update it.

I just updated the link. Let me know if it is still an issue.

Not yet.

They are in percentages.

Glass tubes I would say yes. Metal and ceramic tubes that’s less of a concern.

I should mention that yes it is not great to run it at 100% all the time and it will decrease the life over time. However, in order to cut through say 1/4” material on a 40 or 60 watt machine, it’s almost impossible to not run it at 100%. To not have as much of an impact on tube life it would have to be run at Max 80% but that’s not possible for most cutting projects to be honest.

It sure is. Boiler Up!

Thanks man!

It looks like it’s been taken down since I made this video.