Do you have or have you ever had this issue? What did you do to fix it? As always, links for everything in the video are in the description!

As someone who has two left hands when it comes to this kind of thing I have to say I really appreciate the very clear and easy to understand style in which the information is presented.

Just tightening worked for my basement spigot. Tyvm!

I could not for the life of me get the bonnet off but saw your double wrench technique and was able to loosen it that way, it saved me from a ton of frustration trying to get it off.

As always a great job explaining how to fix anything. You made it look so easy even I, a 77 yr old woman can do it. That’s why I subscribed and stay.

I love your channel! I've learned a lot from your experience. Thank you for sharing!!!!!❤

Thank you for your informative Videos, this was handy for me, I live alone, currently out of work due to ill health so money is tight right now! Whilst good at DiY, I am not that good on plumbing. Managed to replace both washers on an old outdoor tap, cleaned the threads, then added PTFE tape. Hopefully the outdoor Tap will not leak for a few more years now. Thank you.

Great video. I really appreciate that you explain the specifics such as how to hold the bib and which way to wrap the tape. Great details!

Gosh this video is perfect. You explain everything step by step and it is easy to understand. Thank you so much. You have a great teacher :)

Found the instructions helpful. I will be looking at it with a whole new pair of eyes now. Thanks so much 😊

a good trick on tight fittings is to set your wrenches up next to each other close enough to Squeeze the two together that way you dont have to worry about twisting the back pipe or fitting. harbor freight has a pipe cleaning wire brush for 4 bucks i keep several around for battery cleanups and general round fittings that need cleaned up. i personally dont like teflon tape But lots of people do i like the teflon paste or a product called true blue. good concise video to the point and well presented have fun

Yes, this was very helpful. So thorough and clear! Thank You So Much!

I learned a lot. I'm amazed at how much there is to learn.

Thank you for these videos. They are VERY helpful !!!

Such a great do-it-yourself instructional video. Thank you for providing only the information needed with good to know explanations, but without all the fluff and extraneous comments.. Great job!

Great video. Simple to understand Thank you I will be doing this

Your video and instructions were perfect-thank you!

Found this super helpful. Thanks! One of my outdoor faucets started dripping yesterday.

Very helpful video! We fixed the leaking faucet so easily we went ahead and pro-actively replaced the washer on the other faucets! Only spent about 20-30 minutes doing this.

Perfect, just what I needed.

Thanks for the video. Helped me get my trickling faucet down to slow drops until I can go get that washer.

Have the exact same hose Bibb - got the washers but I think it soldered together (or some type of cement paste was used - not sure) - used exact same wrenches, etc, but worried I was going to break it of at the pipe I was putting too much torque to turn it. Back to Lowes to get a replacement Bibb. I will keep the pack of rubber washers though ($3 for a dozen may come in handy later). Great video and instruction!!!

Extremely helpful, and so clearly communicated. Again! Thank you!

Amazing detail! Thank you very much.

Great stuff man! You convinced me that I can do this. Thanks man! U truly are the best!

Thanks for the great video. I've never, seriously never, successfully completed a plumbing project. Something always defeats me...usually involving the first thing I have to loosen....it never loosens. Anyway, this project went exactly as you demonstrated. I feel like maybe there's hope for the new bathroom faucet that's been sitting in its box for over three years. (Couldn't get the old one's bolt loose.) Thanks again!

Thanks so much! I have been wondering how to fix mine!!❤

Great instructional. Thanks.

Thanks man for posting this

Very helpful. I actually saved it for future reference. Thanks

🎯Your complete and truly thorough explanations throughout this video compelled me to leave this brief comment. I have not read any other comments and have yet to follow through with your instructions, although i am completely confident that when the time allows, i will be able to follow this task at hand to its full fruition. Also i will be sure to peep the full scope of your other instructive videos in hopes of feeling the same positivity as this video about tackling the next hiccup our home has. Thank You.👏

Super grateful 🙏🏼 you exist. Thank u so much!

Great as always. Thanks!

Very helpful, thank you!

Good directions and correct video angle.

Worked great. Thanks

Thanks for the video, I appreciate it

Thanks for the video.

I would put some silicone valve grease on the washer screw threads and the valve stem. Good job.

great info!

Thank you millions times

I used to build thousands of similar valves, and noticed one mistake you were making. You should always have the stem backed out away from the seat when loosening or tightening the bonnet. Otherwise, if the seat washer sticks to the seat while loosening the bonnet, the coarse drive threads on the stem will tighten the valve as you try to loosen the bonnet, and it won't come loose at all; just keep getting tighter against the seat. Same with reassembling, do that with the stem backed out away from the seat so it doesn't interfere. Also, like pipe dope, Teflon tape is only effective for sealing tapered threads. It does not do anything for straight threads, other than making them slicker, which is not necessary, or even a good idea. Great video though.

For a cheap / temporary fix, I have just flipped the rubber washer over and reattached with the screw into the shaft. Sometimes , water leaks out around the knob SHAFT. Using an adjustable or box wrench, just tighten the packing nut slightly to squeeze the sealing material enough to stop the leak but not too tight that would make the knob difficult to turn. Hardware stores do sell small quantities of rubber washers or re-build kits, so make sure to bring the old parts with you as a reference.

Thank you for sharing

Such a perfect video! Liked and subbed - thank you!! 🥰

The tape or sealant on the threads is important. You mentioned it is a relatively low pressure area - and it is, when the water is flowing. But if you put a hose on there with a nozzle, and stop the flow with the nozzle, then the hose and that part of the valve housing comes up to line pressure. So don't skimp on the tape folks! ;-)

Thank for sharing!

very nice instructions and video

I replaced my valve with a 90 and a 1/4 turn valve. Previous owner removed the anti siphon fittings. When you remove the anti siphon fittings the threads on the valve causes a leak at the hose connection because it’s designed that way. I didn’t replace the anti siphons….

on a well here too. heard it running the other evening, sowalked out and tightened my already tight frost free yard spigot. I'm hoping these fixes solve it

Thank you!

You could also replacing the stem packing when water leeks out around the valve stem, as long as the valve is out it not much extra effort..

Muchas gracias! 👍

Very helpful video. Thank you. I have a 10in stem with a cup like gasket towards the back of the stem that is slightly wrinkled. My back washer looks new as it's about 1yr old. I tried looking for a replacement for the gasket on the stem but couldn't find anything. Do you think it's the back washer only that needs replaced as I'm waiting for an order to ship? I still have a constant drip, but not sure if I need to replace the whole hose bib as I can't find the cup like gasket replacement.

Should you not have opened the valve a bit before tightening it down?

Another trick too, is if the brass nut won’t turn because of corrosion. Take a propane torch, like the ones they use for soldering and heat up the outside of the faucet a bit to get the metal to expand. Heat it for a few seconds. That’s all it takes. It’ll break up the corrosion between the threads and it’ll loosen it enough to unscrew them.

Like tge video showed, make sure that the main body of the faucet (the one with the bigger wrench on it) does not turn when you loosen or tighten the body or you will cause a pipe to be broken inside that wall. If that happens you will have a big mess and probably need a plumber to fix that problem!!!

3:30 My faucet is identical to the example. That bonnet nut will not budge. I sprayed a lubricant, but no help. I’m using the backup counter wrench for support, but I’m concerned about using too much torque and risk damaging the interior pipe. Any suggestions?

Well I used this video as a base... but there were some details I needed to figure out. When I went to turn the meter off, my water never completely stopped running. Turns out since I have a townhome, perhaps the other units could still be feeding me water. I turned off the neighbor water too that's connected to my house. (It's okay they are grandparents that live on the east coast, and use their place strictly for vacations). Still my water wasn't completely off. It crossed my mind to turn off all 4 units water, both the gentleman in the adjacent house were home and I didn't want to bother. I decided that the low water pressure was workable. I did go rub my kitchen sink to maybe help? (Side note, I heard my water heater making pinging noises, and turns out if you gonna turn your water off for extended periods of time, or if it gets cut off, you should turn off the water heater, or it might damage itself trying to heat a tanks that's not full). Back to the bib.. turns out I didn't even need a pipe wrench wince the base or the faucet is partially in the wall and covered with the outside building material. It's all good though because I have this spiffy new pipe wrench that is easy to use one handed and self adjusting. Now I went to turn counter clockwise behind the handle and it came off easily enough. But when the nut came loose and I could pull the handle out, in only came out like an inch and was stuck. I feared it was the water pressure still active that prevented me from taking it out. I contemplated calling the water company and asking them to replace the shut off valve by the meter, but I don't have all day. I smoked a bowl. I thought about watching episode 4 and 5 of the new Castlevania series on Netflix... but I resisted and looked at the set up again. That's when I noticed a really thin nut that was camouflaged, behind the bigger nut. Aha. I repeated my earlier steps and had the rod partially dislodged. Then I used my new crescent wrench to unscrew the other hidden nut and whoops there it is. Free at last, I was able to pull it all the way out. My rod was a little different, about 6 inches and with a small square base. And the washer was actually the smallest size of the kit I had gotten. I had to hold the square base firm while I unscrewed or it was just spinning the shaft. I ended up not using the plumbers tape, because didn't seem needed with how the thread area was designed. Thanks for the guidance, it at least gave me confidence and what tools to gather. It's funny tho, these dyis are never as straightforward as we hope.

I didn't know you could replace the gasket inside of the faucet.... you just turned a $15 problem into a 0.30 cent problem!

Excellent video for a single chic!

What do you think of the idea of any extra washers you buy for future use you store in a freezer Zip-Loc bag to keep them from drying out so fast?

If you observe the washer is quite mutilated, and it still leaks after replacing, the brass seat might be damaged and require replacing. There will be instructional videos on KZfaq on how to remove and replace that.

Thanks!

Glad I clicked this one first 👍

I have a slight drip, a drop maybe every 2 hours. I was wondering, can I just put a female cap on the end of it. Thanks

easier than i thought!

Perfect timing, I have one in the back that leaks when it's on, but the one on the front of the house is stuck, what's your recommendation for a stuck faucet handle (won't turn on)

No problem! Replace the faucet!

Sir I enjoy your show a lot. Keep what you are doing. Can you tell me what the difference if any is between a GFCI and a AFCI outlet and can they be used interchangeably? Thank you in advance for any help that you can provide, Raines Hayes, El Paso, Texas,

I'm on a strong artesian well without a well head. I'm the house is a pump but outside of just natural pressure. There's a metal yard faucet that needs replacement. How can I replace in this case since it can't turn off?

I attempted to change mine today however the screw is chipped and the threads are damaged. How can I buy the full assembly that you took out. I have the long stem. Thank you

@HowToHomeDIY can you do a video on how to replace the connector on the bottom of your faucet in your video? My connector has a “feature” that when I have a hose connected to a handle or sprinkler, and turn off the water, the back pressure causes water to spray out of that connector and get me all wet. The guys at Home Depot say that is a feature but I can’t understand why this is a good idea to make me all wet each time I stand by the faucet and turn the water off!

I have a hose bib that's leaking out of the stem opening, not through to to bib outlet. I tried tightening down on the nut but it didn't fix it. Some sort of packing, perhaps, just below the nut? I still have to add an isolation valve upstream of it so haven't opened it up yet, but if it does use packing what can I use to repair it? Thanks in advance, wonderful channel!

Just curious…why didn’t you mention about inspecting the valve seat for nicks or cracks? Another couple of stages of fixes could include relapping the valve seat with a lapping tool (not very expensive) or, the next stage of repair could be replacing the valve seat (if removable, many are removable). Valve seats are cheap too as are valve seat removal tools!

Where can you buy replacement packing nuts? My nut on my bib broke. I can’t find a matching one from Home Depot. I’d like to avoid completely replacing entire hose bib

If I have a shutoff in my basement leading up to the outside faucet, do I need to shut off my main?

The screw that holds the washer has disolved. How do you remove the broken screw and them replace the screw. The faucet was installed in 1949 and I am unable to find replacement parts. I'm thinking of installing a shark bit facet but the other side of the wall is under the kitchen sink with no room to work.

Regarding frost-free faucets... are leaks corrected the same way? Have always thought they disconnected way back inside the wall.

Had a heat pump motor go out today. Have you ever replaced one? Motors are $200 bid to put in, $1,500. 2008 unit. Better to replace the whole thing?

How do you repair it if water doesn't come out at all?

Our outside faucet failures are about not stopping water flow. We turned them off from the inside of our basement.

What if this doesn’t fix it? I have replaced the washer but there is still a steady flow of water coming out. Does that mean something inside is broken?

now do one to replace the pipe that the spigot screws onto.

What about graphite packed?

My frost-free hose bib is cracked it's the third one I've called the plumber each time this time I'm going to do it myself but it's cracked that doesn't sound right what's going on?

Excellent. Now show how to change the other washer that keeps the faucet from leaking when its turned on.

Is there any difference between repairing a leaky outdoor bib and repairing a leaky compression shutoff valve of a clothes washer supply pipe or a kitchen sink supply pipe?

I'm gonna have to sit down to do this looks like an extremely tiring task 😪....lol

The question that bugs me with this kind of “single” nut faucet as opposed to one with a second nut housing that houses the teflon or graphite thread packing that crunches in between the in & out moving rotating shaft & the faucet body so the clearance between the shaft & valve body is closed up, which if open will cause water to drip - how is this achieved in the faucet above? Because the seal you just fixed is not at all related to what I just described above? Anyone can shed a light or spray of water on this matter, much appreciated! Thanks.

Does anyone has advice on how to remove the gasket on Bent Nose Valve ? The gasket is bigger than the valve body opening and cannot get it out.

Wow. I used to just change the whole thing. Now I know it may just need to be tightened . ( washer)

Great 👍 video my hose bib has a loose valve knob that you turn

Mine is just spraying on the side when I hook up the hose. The water coming out not on he handles but around the side where attached the hose.

I appreciate this video, will this also stop a leak from the handle? Mine is dripping from the screw in the middle of the round handle. thanks in advance

What about a leaking shaft when the water is on?

I do put a little vasaline on the black rubber washer before being reinstalled

I was able to do anything except actually get to the washer. Everything was going fine until it didn’t come out. What do I do?

How do you call the thing that goes on the wall and your faucet, just to get tide or you can plug there

What if our turning knob has disintegrated?