I ran through the diagnostic checks you showed and found an issue with the thermal fuse. Now my wife thinks I am handy - thanks to your awesome video!😊

My dryer stopped working this week and is almost the exact same model as in this video. I followed your directions, tested the fuse, sure enough that was the problem. Bought a new one at a local supplier for $17, replaced it and now the dryer is running like a champ. Big money saver. Thanks for the video!

Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse 3392519 did the trick. My local Whirlpool dealer had it in stock. The bag was marked $19.95, but they charged me $5 cash . It took more time to clean out the dryer vent pipe than change the fuse. A $5 item fixed everything. I took my ohm meter to the store & made sure there was a difference between my old fuse & the new one. I left the store confident that I had the right part. Videos like these are awesome! Thank you!!!!!

Excellent video, way better than others I watched, thank you! I really hope you continue to make repair videos, the way you explain is easier to follow and far better than other vids I've seen. Other vids only mentioned 3-4 things, you mention much more, which is more helpful.

I appreciate you showing us around the machine first and your clear instructions. Thank you

Thanks for the very helpful video. You helped me find the problem with mine. Wish you the best. We need more of you around!

Extremely helpful info! I ordered up some thermal fuses today since 3 of the hardware stores I stopped by don't carry them. Thank you for the great video!

Enjoyed your video...very well explained. My dryer still won't start after checking EVERYTHING. The only anomaly in the testing is that the push to start switch has the expected CONTINUITY both when normally open and pushed. However, with the dryer plugged in and the selector switched to any drying cycle, there is no voltage drop across the R1 / R2 start relay connectors - either when the start button is normally open, as well as when pushed and held in. Individually, BOTH pins show 120 VAC relative to ground with the start button in the normally open position which seems very odd. Any thoughts on if this relay is bad even though it's passing the continuity test?

Excellent, very informative video! Thanks, youre doing us DIY'ers s great service with content like this!!

Thank you for explaining everything you are doing. I have no man to teach me these things, and you explain it great for me to learn. Im forever thankful.

Just wanted to thank you for your video. I was able to fix my dryer and save myself money from buying a new one. Very good information, content was great! Thanks alot and much success to you !

Very helpful and clear. Thank you. We need more instructional youtube channels like this instead of influencers.

We have a Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II. Purchased it back in 2006 and it just died. Followed this video and determined that the Thermal Fuse lacked continuity. Didn't want to wait 4-5 days for an $8 2-pack to ship from Amazon, so I was able to locate an Appliance Parts store locally and picked up a replacement for $18.99. The price is just for one, but I figured they'd have to charge more since it's housed in a traditional brick-and-morter store. And you know, support local:) We also have no use for the extra one, and we really didn't want to wait 4 days to learn whether or not there were other issues needing addressed as well. Either way, we are grateful to you for saving us from having to spend $500+ on a new dryer, because that's the path we were about to head down. So I wanted to make sure we at least thumbed up, subscribed and left you a comment!:)

Very helpful , never thought about all of these steps and actually helped me fix this !

Thanks for taken the time bro.. I went right to the button on the door, and that’s what it was. Thanks again.

What a great video and I liked how you went in order of most probable to least likely. This is the third time I have had this issue over the last decade or so and each time it was the thermal fuse

Great video! Helped me to fixed my whirlpool dryer. I was ready to buy a new one and I run into your video. Thermal fuse was the problem. I bought a $6 multimeter to test at harbor freight. Found no conductivity through the fuse. I ordered a kit( fuse and thermostat, 4 pieces came.)for $11 dollars from Amazon. I only replace the thermal fuse. Problem fixed. I checked the switch first which was good. I could hear power sounds in the panel but it wouldn't start. Sure enough the thermal fuse. Thank you again! You explained just perfectly to save me some 💰!

Thanks appliance dudes for helping me diagnose and repair my whirlpool dryer.respect dudes

saved me hundreds !! any one reading this -very simple just follow the steps .I bought a multimeter at lowes for 40$ and three of the fuses for 5$ -fixed

You helped me fix it !!!!! Thank you so much !!!!

Found my problem to be the door switch, I’m glad that I checked it 1st. Wow what a video. Thank you sir.

Was able to diagnose mine as the thermal fuse. Kudos for having the link to them.

Thank you for the advice. Excellent and clear detail on how to proceed to the checkpoints. I was able to find the problem and it thermal fuse. I ordered the part @ Amazon and it is working great! Thanks again

Just replaced the thermal fuse on my Dryer and it’s working again. Thanks 👍🏾

Thanks so much! You’re vídeo was a huge help in getting my dryer up and running again.

I just want to say that you saved my marriage. My wife thought I was useless until I fixed her treasure dryer lmao but all jokes aside dyer thermal fuse was the problem and depending on where u get the fuse it’s pretty inexpensive. Thank you for this video and knowledge 😁👍

Thanks for the assistance, it was the temp sensor 👊🍻

Thanks for making this video. Pretty sure my repair is going to be a thermal fuse. Everything is clicking like it has power but the motor doesn't engage at all. This video is also good for understanding basic cleaning maintenance, componet access and safety. Well done sir! If I get it working, I will come back and comment. Whirlpool, same exact set up, BTW.

You are very good instructor thank you for sharing your knowledge . Big Gunns USMC Retired

I was about to jump to the switch because it felt dead. I used your trouble shooting tree and it was the thermal fuse. Meter showed open, jumped it to verify and got the parts ordered in about fifteen minutes. Thanks!!!

Great video! I could hear the motor running but the drum wasn't turning. Sure enough, the belt had snapped after 18 long years. $14 later and I'm back in business. Thanks.

Thanks for this diagnostic tips. How do we fix once identified please?

FYI - To be accurate, when testing a component, you need to isolate that component by removing at least one of the wires so you are only checking THAT component otherwise you could possibly be getting a false reading due to other items being in parallel . The "horse shoe" is called "OHMS" ( the Greek infinity sign ) which is the unit of measurement for resistance just like volts and amps are units of measurement. And like you mentioned, always have the machine unplugged when testing. Good video ! Thank you for making it !

Thanks so much…. I just Learned a lot with your video my dryer stops working I following your directions, I just pay for the part 7dls and is working right now thx thx thx

Thanks So much! Subscribed. It was temp sensor the very first thing you mentioned.

Thank you very much! I followed your instructions step by step getting the tools in the links you provided too and my whirlpool dryer is now working perfectly. You saved me hundreds of dollars doing it myself and I’m really appreciative. Thanks again.

thank you. thought so, since voltage passes thru it..

Great training, good job emphasizing the unplug safety…prob my fuse, start button or door switch. I’ll know in a few 🎉

I was trained that "OL" meant "Open Line" not "Overload"

Small dad flex to your big dad flex. THANK YOU for the great video and the explanation. $5 thermal fuse. The biggest challenge was finding the RIGHT video.

Thank you for an informative and well done video.

Awesome video.. what does it mean if the multimeter does nothing during these tests? No beep, nothing at all. No number

Hi Peter - thanks for the video! In my case of old thin twin the dryer starts, is more loud then typical, turns the and then stops after 5 sec. I read elsewhere it may be the belt and rollers and I just replaced them, removed bunch of lint but it didn't help :( I also noticed that some of the wires insulation is somewhat burned. Do you think its the motor that went bad? Not that I replaced the belt I can candle replacing the motor, but don't want to spend bunch of time and $160 for the motor if it's not it. What do you think?

I have a 1996 Kenmore 90' series dryer that won't stay running unless I keep the start button depressed. I have changed out the start switch and the start switch relay - no change. The dryer also does not heat and the fuses check out fine. The door switch is good. The element is good. Voltage to the dryer checks out for 240. The idler pulley switch is good. This problem came on all at once, after a normal working cycle where the dryer was on a high heat cotton cycle, and has remained inoperative with the condition mentioned. 11-2-2022

Great video, thank you for posting.

so mine looks similar to this, only three buttons/dials/switches. i can spin the drum by hand, and the dryer will fire up. many types of motors use start capacitors, but i only see a handful of wires heading into a harness which appears to be on the motor. i can haul it outside for a better look and flip it over etc. do these motors typically not use an external starter cap? or is there one on there, just right bolted onto the motor or motor mount assembly?

Good video thanks.

Everything is testing fine. Error code on the dryer says moisture sensor is malfunctioning but it seems fine too

You good Sir, are a legend!! Thank you!!

Went through and checked everything you mentioned, twice. Everything checks out ok. I’m seeing on a few Google searches that there is also a belt switch somewhere by or on the motor itself? How would one test a belt switch? Thanks-Drew

finally the right video!

Just fixed my dryer. Thermal fuse. $7.50. I’m not a wealthy man so this meant a lot. Bonus…wifey thinks I’m amazing!! Thank you for taking the time to make this! I owe you one.

You the bomb!! GOD bless you!

Thank you very much. In my case it was the door switch.

Thanks for the video. Looks like I need to source a thermal fuse.

Great instruction. Thank you!

This is an excellent video....thanks

Very nice video ,thanks!!

Ontario California?

This video was very helpful, thanks!

Very very helpfull, blessings from Guatemala, take care

thanks! & dollar door switch beats a new 500 plus dollar dryer!

Outstanding video!

Fuse! Thanks so much!

Thanks!! Best explanation yet!

hi my whirlpool heavy duty dryer moter spins a little bit then stops but makes a humming noise...could it be the capacitor perhaps

HA it was the thermal fuse, it was bad thanks for the knowledge dude

What about checking fan to see if something is stop it from turning

You should have shown how to check heating element, high limit switch, and so on. but other than that nice video.

So you mentioned the close sensor. Have a video on that?

I have a Whirlpool dryer that will run but you really have to hit on the start switch to get it to start. So I’m assuming the start switch is going bad?

I have a Roper dryer (model RGD4440VQ1) that stopped working. I've checked everything listed in this video and it all works. Power is being sent to the motor but nothing is happening. Should I replace the motor?

What is the little black box next to timer with blue wires running to it

I have a issue of my picture was lost, so how go about making sure what wire goes were like the wire coming from the the 4 connection thermal fuse on the blower side the wire to the heating element side where do it connect?

Want to get into flipping washers and dryers have fun fixing them been doing it a lot but don't know how to flip them on Facebook marketplace any tips

Thank you for your help m, however, upon opening my dryer I now do not see the similar component that I purchase(thermal fuse) to replace on my dryer, where else should I Chacha?

what about a kenmore with lint trap inside the main door? i cannot remove the panel in the front or in the back.

How can i find directions on cleaning out a G.E. dryer which is part of a apt size stackable. Im a 69 yr old widow. Im fairly handy with fixing and repairing. Never done a washer/ Dryer tho. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you for the info.

Do motor’s all use start winding’s or are some using capacitor to start?

How about the switch on the motor that is triggered by the tensioner in the event the belt breaks? It shuts off the motor When the belt breaks it releases the switch. Can you review that and how to test it?

Very Good!... #397 {5-22-2024}

Thank you for your video. I have a stackable dryer Whirlpool Duet Dryer that makes a load "buzzing" sound and does not turn. It lights up all the indicators on the board. Does that sound like it could be one of the problems you mentioned?

How do you check the timer?

I have a 21 year old stackable. When I push the button the dryer turns on but turns off once I release the button or if the button is pushed down too long. The last time I pushed it, it smelled like something was burning.

Thank you

Hello,great video, question same dryer,had one heater failed/shorted ,sparks ! anyhow new heater new thermals,checked timer,has continuity when on positions,I think motor shorted,I'm going to live test and manual trip thermal on motor see what happens, any thoughts?

Thanks, the first item I'd check is the belt.

wishi had seen this video a few months ago before I replaced a miriad of parts and it still didnt work. lol book marking for my umpteenth go at it. This dryer has been a headache. The circuit board has a faulty design as one of the traces is not robust enough to handle its own current and will shred itself apart. Fixed that by re routing the traces with thick solid copper wires, insulating them and testing and went ahead and beefed up all the traces associated with that network of components. Bingo, back up and running. Then the belt went. Fixed that. Then I found out the idler pulley's steel core ring split into two rings and likely caused the belt issue because it wasn't rolling smoothly, so I ordered one which came with the drum rollers as well. Curiously, the one I ordered supposedly for this dryer (cabrio)was actually not as "universal" as they claimed for whirlpool and was a bit larger. But I didn't realize how little space between the wheel and drum (as in virtually none) and the wheel was rolling ON the drum. I imagine this created drag so when my dryer stopped working and the belt was still intact, albeit a bit of rubber shavings inside that clued me into the pulley issue, I figured I blew a fuse so I replaced the thermal fuse. Nothing. When that didn't work I replaced the belt switch. Nothing. I heard the start button might be the problem but when I click start, it makes an initial click that I always associated with starting up, it engages the countdown on the digital display and still does nothing. So I begrudgingly replaced the motor because at this point, in for a penny, in for a pound. Got one for 40 bucks, tested its continuity, all good. I should also note that I had cleaned out the vent when I had it apart to replace the belt the first time and I upgraded the vent hose at the time as well as put in an actual vent outside because it was previously next to the washer but I installed a washtub sink years ago and the dryer got bumped to a new place. But the boys actually did that and just stuck the hose in one of the floor vents in the garage. Nice, right? I didn't know taking that damn fan blower off would be impossible without breaking it. After wrestling it for an hour here and there, getting aggro, drilling a couple tiny holes to try to get some liquid wrench on the shaft. then turning my husband loose on it as well unsuccessfully, I took a hammer to it, so I also replaced that too (and gladly!) and still NOTHING. I also bypassed the door switch by closing the circuit for testing reasons and that was also not the culprit. Same thing happens when I push the start button. All of these incidences happened a few weeks or months apart with the last year and a half. Except this last dryer won't start thing. I swear if it's the start button switch, I am going to be one angry chick. I suppose it is possible being that the switch has more than one function looking at all the wires connected to it... ooooo I'm gonna be so mad. LOL If it's not that, a faulty NEW part is the only other possibility unless its a recently faulty board component. In which case, doublely pissed off. Enraged. LOL If I missed anything, Please tell me. I am at my wits end with it and my clothes always have like reside or lint on them when I hang dry that you don't see till they dry and I KNOW tumbling would take care of. I particularly like not being bald, but this is about to have me pulling my hair out with everything else that seems to be needing maintenance. My car just getting totaled by a dipdhidiot doing 60+ in a 25 and haven't had time to go buy one, the sink having a leak in the food truck I run and can never seem to get to because there aren't enough hours in the day (or patience in this person!) Hubs likes that I like to do this stuff because he doesn't (and things get more broken when he gets bent) and I don't like cooking so it all worked out but the frustration of not fixing it vs. the satisfaction that comes with making broken shit work again is making me crazy.

Here's one for you I have a electric whirlpool dryer looks a lot like the one in your video except it's 110, I turn the start button and all it does is sound a buzzing noise I open the dryer door and turn the drum just a little by hand then I shut the door and turn the start button and every time it starts and runs normal. Now when I remove the clothes and do another load same thing happens.

Very well presented .. I found it very helpful. Woking on a Whirlpool Model YWED4850HW0. Dryer not turning on. However, I was almost stumped with the press-to-start switch action. I removed the switch from the panel for the check. Easy to do, I pulled off the knob from the front panel and after disconnecting the two wiring connectors from the switch I was able to remove it with just a quarter turn action. There is a locking tab on the switch that you need to pull toward you to enable the turning action of the switch. I checked the continunity of the start contact ( blue wires ) as noted on your video. I had continuity when I pushed on the switch. However, I found when I reninstalled the switch I had to hold the switch at the back for the contact to make with the knob action from the front. At least for now, I know what the problem is and I will replace the switch when I get a chance. Your troubleshooting help managed to get me through the problem. Thanks

Great Video!

a ge dryer resistor should have continuity? correct..?

Great video, OL actually stands for open loop pretty amazing how you got 220v from a 110v GFCI

thank you huge help

Proper continuity check of the thermal fuse requires 1 lead to be removed from the fuse. OR, with dryer plugged in, continuity is verified if both sides of the fuse have 120V.

How do you test the timer

Thank you. Thermal fuse, just like you and a family member said. Amazon has a 3 pack for 5 dollars

Thanks!