Thanks for the note!!

@@ETMotorsports hi could you do my 3.2 Q5 for a good price ?

Not giving me high hopes. Uhhhh

That's awesome!!! It's a bit of an annoying service to do but it does save you a ton of money! Glad it worked

Which means the 3.0 supercharged version I have is harder. Great!

How much longer did you drive the Audi for before you had to get the tensioners replaced? I have a rattle on morning starts also and getting worried..

Be afraid, be very afraid!

Hmm you mean the air valve at the back of the cover? The hoses are plastic and might break on you if you're pushing the valve around... might be easier to disconnect them and just get it out of the way

@@ETMotorsports

@@ETMotorsports its impossible to gat at the last 10mm bolt on the bottom of the valve cover - between the cat and cover there is no room to get at the 10mm....how did you get your off?

What about passenger side? I’m trying to do both sides but can’t get the cat off the passenger side

@@ETMotorsports my correlation code is for bank 2 isn’t that the passenger side?

@@ETMotorsports okay thanks I have the timing chain cover off the drivers side and the chain is super loose

Oh and the car only has 106000miles

Is it a rusted nut? Stripped? For the muffler you've got more access so if you stripped one of the nuts you can probably use a socket to take it out? I'm usually using a hammer and chisel if I get stuck or cut the nut and replace the bolt in the worst case

@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the reply! That makes a lot of sense actually. I had scanned the code with an OBD2 scanner months ago and it showed "P0019: Crank/Cam Position Correlation - Bank 2 Sensor B" so that should mean that it's most likely the upper tensioner on the same side as you showed in the video?

Very pumped to find this video and this comment in particular! I've got a 2012 Q5 here (107K miles) and have all bank 2 codes (misfires on 4/5/6, bank 2 crankshaft/camshaft correlation sensor A/B) and the car still runs(albeit poorly). It sounds like there is a very good chance it is upper only. I took it to the dealer and they quoted $2136 to confirm it is a timing issue (they said 99% chance) and an additional $11,798 to repair said timing issue. In addition, they suspected the entire intake manifold needed replacement because of knocking on bank 2, at a cost of $1893. So, if I had approved this job I would have walked out $16,000 poorer with a car I paid $17,000 for 2 years and 25,000 miles ago. It wasn't a hard decision. I talked to a few of the local shops and they are quoting engine out and in the $7000 range. I am quite looking forward to driving this car to the Audi service department after putting $300 into it. Not much to lose at this point and a whole lot of "in-your-face" to be gained, if it works out. Thanks much for the video and the hope! Hell, I am actually looking forward to the job now!

@@bobmcvay Good luck Bob!! I ended up finding a specialized European (e.g. Audi/Volkswagen) car mechanic in my city from a friend and told the mechanic that it was most likely a failed upper timing chain tensioner. Sure enough, the mechanic was able to pull the engine and found a failed piston on just 1 of the upper timing chain tensioners, and also a broken little plastic guide for the timing chain. The mechanic replaced only that one failed timing chain and the broken plastic guide at a great price (only 7 hours of total labour cost) and I have had no check-engine light or issues with the engine since!

@@aaronb7509 Hi Aaron! Thanks for the update. You mentioned he pulled the engine did the fix and replaced the engine in 7 hours (charged)? That is a really good deal! I will keep this in mind if I immediately run into trouble with doing it myself. Both of the German specialist shops that I work with seem super busy right now, as in mid-December appointments. Glad it worked out for you.

@@ETMotorsports Hi Emil! I decided to take this job on this weekend. Yesterday I got the timing chain cover off. You did a great job of preparing me for the difficulty or removing that - I don't know if I would have continued on it if I hadn't been prepared for the difficulty and knew that you had accomplished it. I will give more updates when I get done (hopefully), but I ran into an unexpected condition when I installed the locking bridges. I locked the camshafts on bank 1 (the error-free bank) and, afterwards, I looked over at the bank 2 cams, they looked aligned. Sure enough, I was able to install the bridge with fingers only. I was expecting to see a mis-alignment on bank 2. Hoping you can give me some encouraging words that it is still likely the bank 2 upper tensioner. Cheers!

hey I honestly don't remember having a gasket behind my tensioner...they don't come with a gasket for sure and I don't remember buying one...usually these things just have a metal on metal interface...did you pull a gasket from behind your old tensioner?

hey sorry for the slow reply....Audi calls the passenger side of the motor Bank 1...if you had misfires on 1,2,3 and 4 only then that's Bank 1 upper tensioner...however you have a misfire on #5 as well and a Bank 2 sensor issue so to me this means you've got an issue with the lower chain or both upper tensioners...unfortunately in this case I think you`ll have to remove the motor or try to do it by removing the transmission

Hey there's nothing software required after installing the new tensioner... if everything goes OK, the computer won't know you did anything... you may need to reset any error codes you had

Hi Thank you for the fast reponse. So you must try. Regards@@ETMotorsports

@@ETMotorsports Thank you!

Just got done doing this on my wife’s Q5. It’s running great! Thanks for the help.

@@ETMotorsports I was able to get to the cats without removing the axles. All I removed was the bottom cross frame, the back aluminum heat shields and the shields around the inner CV flange. This was enough to get at the exhaust bolts on both sides. Of course it’s not easy to get to everything but you need to get creative with extensions and swivels. A 1/4 and 3/8 ratchet with a flexible head is very helpful. Hope this helps someone. Thanks…

Hey yeah if all the bolts are off then the cover is just held by the gasket so pry it out...unfortunately you might ruin the cover in the process - I ordered a new one so I wasn't too careful with it

Thanks! Yeah I got it off with a screw driver and a hammer... not the best. Appreciate your video btw, I wouldn't have attempted this without it!

@@ETMotorsports thanks for the reply. Everything you said is correct. It sounds like I need to pull the engine. 🤦🏻🤦🏻. Wish they made it so I can remove the chain from the top

@@ETMotorsports what else do you recommend changing back there? This is most likely a flip for me so I’ll consider minimal items. Also, I’m looking at the timing tensioner I bought on eBay and it doesn’t seem to have a locking mechanism. I’m going to try another tensioner before pulling the engine. Cheap parts

@@ETMotorsports I’m going to try a dealer tensioner as a last resort before pulling engine. Heard of AudiUSAparts.com. They sound like a importer and not the dealer. So not sure if truely genuine.

Nice deal! I only did the side that was causing issues... it's a big enough job that I'd rather not do it unless 100% necessary

If you're pulling the motor then yes both sides 100% plus the lower chain but if staying in place I'd just do the driver side... you may never have to do the other one anyways

@@ETMotorsports oh the motor stays in 😄👍

P.s. are you Romanian by any chance?

@@kinderutz close enough - Bulgarian :)

I used my lift but because of the height of my garage I really only get a few feet off the ground...you could do this on stands for sure

Thanks. I'll have to try that then

Take your time - I can't stress that enough! If you strip the cat bolts you're in a world of pain... good luck!!

@@ETMotorsports

I managed to unscrew 2 screws from the catalytic converter. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to locate the third one yet. Of course, I do it very carefully

Hmm I don't remember a separate tensioner seal... did you pull one out wth the old tensioner? Is that sitting between the tensioner and the head to seal the oil feed? They're usually just metal to metal but I might be forgetting

@@ETMotorsports This is what I care about kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m71drdKEzuC7l3k.htmlsi=YzUOdlPUdkT7-KYK from minute 19

Hey the tensioner has a pin you have to pull when everything is in place... once you pull the pin, the tensioner is released and puts tension on the chain... there should be no "looseness" on the chain if everything is lined up properly... the last thing to do is just tighten the cam sprockets

The locking pin was pulled out, there was no slack in the chain, but after turning the shaft several times, there was slack in the chain@@ETMotorsports

@@attex576 like how much slack?

@attex576 i think if you can rotate the crank 10 full rotations and everything is still in time (you can install the cam brackets without issues) you should be ok... you can then try to hit the starter and rotate a couple of times without starting to get oil pressure up and then see if everything is ok...I don't remember slack in the chain once everything is installed... can you put your phone and record while you're turning it crank? It might show you what's going on

@@ETMotorsports Thanks. Continued tomorrow (late today). I'll report back on how it went.

nope - NA 3.2 V6...it's not exactly trivial to do the service - access is hard all around and the exhaust is a pain in the butt...so if you only have issues on one side I suggest you do that...if you want to do everything you're better off removing the engine. I did not lock the crank - I explained it in the video because access to the crank lock plug is next to impossible...since I only had code on 1 bank, I assumed that the second bank was in time with the crank and by locking the second bank I just timed the other one...Ideally you want to lock the crank too but it was way too much effort so I worked around it

Ah... I just watch a full rebuild and saw the crank bolt you are referring too and didn't realize that too has to be done. Yep, not gonna happen without getting the engine removed. I don't know what to do now and not sure which side has the issue. I hear it's mainly Bank 2 driver side, but the TSB said to replace both. However, I'd have to remove two cats and emission control modules. Having two of those to deal with is a 100% chance one of them isn't going to cooperate in my experience. No code, but I do have the clicking noise on cold or long sit start from oil draining from the tensioner. TSB says it won't cause damage. I find that hard to believe. Uhhhh...this is just great! @@ETMotorsports

@@ETMotorsports thanks bro, I find the 2.0 engine very problematic, the 3.2FSI is more stable

@@ETMotorsports aftermarket tuning for the 2.0- there is a lot available for forced induction. The 3.2 - you can put an intake and flowmaster mufflers and that's about it...lol. I own a 2011 3.2 Q5...not a tuner car at all..but it's reliable- 197,338 miles on mine.

@@clintdormer4512 really? so no timing chain issues or anything at all?

Hey - sorry to hear it's your having a hard time... is it always the same side that goes off time? Did you replace the tensioner? Are you torquing the cam phasers correctly? Can you describe the steps you're doing?

@@ETMotorsports thank you so much for quick reply - it is the same side, drivers side. I replaced the tensioner with a new one, torqued both cam phasers correctly (80lbs/ft plus 90deg). I had bottom timing plug in, put bridge on the right side over cams, put bridge on the left side over cams, installed new tensioner and lined up chain, put cam phasers on and torqued them. removed bridges and bottom plug and was spinning engine by hand. every roughly 10 revolutions the exhaust cam was being left one tooth behind. I undid everything, spun both cams by hand and they turn the way they are supposed to. redid everything again - torqued it right again and put it together. I started the engine and it would not idle right - rough. when I pressed the gas pedal, it would rev to 2000 - 3000 rpm and run smooth - sounded good. but letting go off gas pedal, it would not hold idle. I ran codes and 0019 and all the other ones came up again. I opened the valve covers and the same side is off a lot - the intake cam seems still good, but the exhaust cam is off by a lot. I undid everything he 3rd time now - and I don't understand what is binding up the exhaust cam. it looks like there is not enough tension and it jumps a tooth. I have 3 different cam phasers and I installed a different one and all teeth look good - but it jumps still. When I turn the exhaust cam shaft by hand, it jumps a bit - I'm assuming when springs from valves are trying to close or open - turns freely but jumpy - some resistance from spring and jumps into position after - about 1/4 revolution? i did not take the cradle out and visually all springs and rollers looks good. taking it apart 3 times I just really would appreciate advise on what is wrong. I was ready to replace the cylinder head already but I don't think it will do anything - car has only 100K miles on it.

@@ETMotorsports I have 3 cars with almost same engine - one 3.2, and two with 3.0T- and the other two cars make the rattling noise for 2 seconds on start up. I'm probably going to have to do the same job on all of them at some point, but this one is driving me insane since it seems that something else is off.

@@ETMotorsports if you are wondering if I pulled the pin on the tensioner - yes, I did. it expanded as much as it usually would. tensioner is new also. I wonder if that jumpy exhaust cam shaft has something to do with this - is one valve stuck somehow and creates so much back -pressure/ tension on the spring that the tensioner can't overcome it and makes the timing jump? is that possible at all?

@petertreb2917 the only time I've seen something similar was timing chain on a 2.0T that was stretched...I replaced everything except the chain and every time I rotated it by hand it would jump timing... took me a while to figure out the chain was detected stretched - I must have redone the timing 4 times... not sure that's a thing for the v6s though... could the phase adjuster at the back be spinning off? Maybe the bolt is coming loose?

Hey I saw your email - sorry for the slow reply... hmm interesting - if your timing on either side was out you'd see consistent misfires on that bank only... the correlation code does suggest the timing is off though so that's a bit odd... it's not too expensive to get a set of timing tools, pop the valve covers and just see if both sides are still in time...if they are it could be a sensor or a valve issue...I wonder if you can use VCDS to get more info based on the adjustment angles...are you comfortable with doing the chains on this? You got it pretty cheap - you've got room for a timing job but hopefully you won't need to

@@ETMotorsports Thank you for the reply. I bought the tools you referenced and they are being delivered today. I pulled the intake manifold off and there is little to no carbon build up. I used a bore scope. Valves look good and there is no damage at all on the pistons or valves. I also already pulled the valve covers. And I spent pretty much the whole day yesterday trying to remove the cats bolt from the manifold. I finally got the two lower bolts off the manifold. Just the top one left. Before I go any further with this, are you saying that when I turn the crank to have the cams facing up and if I can easily finger tight in the cam locking tools, on both banks, both are in time? Or how do I know if engine is in time? Thank you You can use VCDS to check but it requires engine to be warmed up and I didn’t want keep it running for a long time. I can still put the valve covers back on and run car and see.

@micheldiarra2348 @micheldiarra2348 sounds like you've got fun ahead of you :) do whatever you can to not strip that cat bolt or you'll be in a world of pain... Yes - that's what I mean - technically if both sides are in time you should be able to fit the tools on top without any effort... technically speaking you need to lock the crank when you're doing that but the access is impossible to get to so I guess look for TDC on cyl1 I think... you can probably see if it's off even without the tools... once you verify the top end is in time and if the car is running OK you should be ok to run it and start looking elsewhere... maybe don't rush with the cat until you're sure it needs to come off... Have you done an oil change and engine flush? If timing checks ok, might be worth throwing in some sea foam or B12 and running the motor to operating temp and doing an oil change after... who knows what the previous owner has done for maintenance- might be dirty or clogged sensor/valve

@@ETMotorsports I’ll check timing once I get the tools and the crank rotating tool before going any further. I was wondering if the crank locking pin is really that necessary if the bank 1 cams are locked I have not done oil change yet. Lady seller said she was driving and all of sudden felt like it was going to die and Where she parked , there was a shop next by and I guess they just read the codes P0019 code and concluded timing. I’ll put things together and change oil, check VCDS and go on from there.

​@@ETMotorsports So an update: First I got all the cats bolts off. That was intense. I got the tools. The Bank 1 Cams line up with the cam locking tools. I could finger tight in the bolts easily with no efforts. The Bank 2 Cams don't line up with the cam locking tools. Depending on which hole you try to line the cam locking tool with first, the other is off by a notch or 2.That is where I left it until tomorrow. So what am I looking at? tensioner? How would I set the Cams to TDC without the locking pin. I may try to get the pin for peace of mind and accuracy.

@@ETMotorsports I did the passenger side like that locked driver side as that one had no correlation codes then started car and passenger side has no correlation codes but driver side does. So doing driver side now but when I lock passenger side cams in to do it that way it appears #1 cylinder isnt at tdc. Is that an issue?

@@ETMotorsports I didn't think to check tdc when I locked driver side to do passenger side I just assumed it was tdc as cam lock tool was fitting in on driver's side and passenger side the tool didn't. Originally was throwing correlation codes on passenger side so replaced tensioner on that side when I started it was throwing correlation codes on driver's side. Should I just lock passenger side in since that side now isn't throwing codes and driver is ? I'm thinking I'll lock passenger side and then do tensioner on driver side get that aligned and hope for the best

My car is a Southern car so pretty rusty so I had everything apart farely quick. Yes passenger side is all back sealed up and I have driver's side opened up just not sure if I wanna lock it in with crank appearing may not be lined up or open passenger side and redo that aswell.

@@ETMotorsports rust free I mean and I have a lift

That's what I'm trying to do but I can't get the locking pin cover out for the life of me took oil cooler and ac compressor off and still can't get it to budge

A3 no - the engine wasn't offered...A4 and A6 - yes... you should be able to... there are videos of folks doing this on an earlier A6 so it's definitely possible

hmmm don't think so...you mean the tensioner? everything should be rotating smoothly and most importantly should end correctly timed after a few rotations

Thank you for your quick response...nice to have Canadian content...I've rotated it several times and it stays in time...

Can you manually inject oil into the adjuster piston to give it more resistance?

@@martyblack4483 hmm no not really... but a new tensioner shouldn't need the oil to have tension... you've got a spring there to help until the oil pressure is up

Can I send a video?

You mean for the timing cover? There's no gasket - use gasket maker

NiTeCProductions I think 10 hours any Mechanic Can Pull engine Out if u pull Engine Out much Easier And Cleaner 😏

@@autobodyrepairclearcoot4146 how many hours to pull out that engine not including repair time?

John Andrews If u pull Out engine That Repir You will doing by Smiling On your Face

@@ETMotorsports what would a full timing chain replacement cost you think? They'd drop the engine for sure I'd think? Also are the replacement chain and guides upgraded to prevent stretching and wear?

@@ETMotorsports given you're in Ottawa I'd happily pay you for some help :) otherwise I may attempt this over a week next summer.

@@ETMotorsports I don't even technically own the car yet, when I test drove it it seemed fine with no noise. But all of these videos and lawsuits make me think it'll happen anytime. Any tips on preventing it? Drive gently? High quality synthetic oil?

@@ETMotorsports I will religiously keep my ears open and potentially buy a vcds scanner tool to check

Hmm I'm pretty sure I changed the gasket yes - it's pretty cheap so no real reason to skip it

@@ETMotorsports which tool did you use for the oil cooler?