Oh yeah I realized that after I filmed the video and ended up re-calibrating it later. It's been working fine so far thankfully.

Its show a "+" sign now after you recalibrate it ? So if we factory reset it, its gonna not show the "+" sign?

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I was going to say the same thing, but I was 7 months too late to the video :P Convention is to always heat the joint, because once solder melts, it tends to stick to the hottest thing, so when the iron is hotter than the pin, that's how you get bubbles on your joints.

If you live near a Fry's I beleive they have cheap small single project flux and soldering materials.

Wrap a small strip of duct tape around the stem of the stick which will prevent it from over registering. Fixed mine completely

oh God no! Please stay away from lead solder. Will poison you!

@@gildardorodriguez4356 Sure, if you are a Trump Republican and are dumb enough to ear it

@@RicardoCooper You clearly haven't worked long with it. Just wait and see.

@@gildardorodriguez4356 lead free solder sucks...

@@gildardorodriguez4356 wash your hands and wear masks in the end it is harmful to breath that.

Will it work if I replace the entire stick with another one ripped off a PS4 controller, or there’s a compatibility inside the whole stick? Because from what I can see the replacements seem just to look all the same item (Xbox one, PS4 or switch pro controller)

yea xD Love stuff that is repairable, which they didn't use so much gue though

Can you make a tutorial? xD pls

Yeah make one

I did the same with two layers of electrical tape. Fixed it as well. it makes me think the issue is with the position of the stick allowing it to go to far. I think heat shrink would be better if I can find a thick enough piece that is also big enough to go around the top of the stick.

Update: The soldering iron I was using was defective, didn't heat the tips proper or stay consistently hot. So I got a new one! I just finished desoldering 3 joystick modules off 3 controllers. lol I tinned the new tips on low heat, then I cranked it up to 405c (around 750f) and got to work. New soldering iron worked as intended. The solder on the Switch Pro Controller was STUBBORN. I used plenty of flux and tinned the tip of my soldering iron from time to time. The trick is to use fresh solder on the solder you're trying to remove. Give it time to bond with the old solder before melting it and sucking it up with the solderpump. ...but to be honest-- this was harder than it should of been. I kept adding/removing solder over and over but there was always solder in the pinholes that was too stubborn to come out. The wick wouldn't suck it out either. I actually had to snip the pins of the joystick module with a wire cutter so I could get closer to the pinhole and get the remaining solder. It only worked on some of the pinholes. I'm sure it would of worked on the others if I kept at it but I had some "FastChip" handy and used that-- IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT! "FastChip" and "Chip Quik" is a low-melting solder that stays molten long enough to pull parts out once applied. It also bonds to old solder much better and makes it easy to remove/suck up. The pin holes on the pcb were really clean after applying it and I used it on my two other controllers. The process was way easier once I started applying it. Once the pinholes were clean, I was able to snap the new joystick modules into place and solder them up. Now I have 3 controllers to use when I play Smash Ultimate. lol. Anyway, that's my experience. Hope it helps someone out there! ALSO, PLEASE SOLDER IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND HAVE FILTERS RUNNING! LEAD SUCKS- YOU DON'T WANT THAT GETTING ABSORBED IN YOUR BODY AND PUT INTO YOUR BONES. DON'T BREATHE IN THE FLUX SMOKE! Take care of yourselves! Good luck!

It's better to get that copper Robbin to remove the solder.

Im thinking about changing the hd rumble and shell of my fake pro controller so it feels and looks great

I have the same problem. I will sell it for parts and buy another.

I got an iFixit replacement too and the stick has a huge dead zone and I filed a complaint, got a new stick, AND THERES STILL A HUGE DEAD ZONE

I did a quick eBay search and found this, gonna see if it works when I get them... www.ebay.com/itm/174274442528

I found this one that's super cheap, but it does ship from China so I'm not sure how long it will take to ship to you goo.gl/jVo4ec

Agent 1 how did you open it up ? What equippmemt is needed?

try it, it stopped helping me after like a year

It's possible you crossed pins with your solder; your sense is probably correct.

I know it's old.. but 4$ for a stick seems alright.

I've worked on xbox one controllers for awhile 1yr+ repair expirence. You can wedge off the green parts and theres this little disc in there. Which guides the turning. Try cleaning it off. Hope it helps.

You can buy Electrical Contact Cleaner (comes in an aerosol like wd-40), spray it onto the disc that Ray Watson mentioned, and then just move the stick around to massage it in and clean it off. It's how I fix the drift in my joycon sticks when it comes up.

Search "Nintendo switch power a wireless enhanced controller deep clean" then kinda copy that for the normal controller

this is the correct fix! this will get your old controller back to working perfect. the real problem is after a few months you will need to repeat. then after cleaning a few time the copper will tarnish more and more which needs cleaning more often. that's when i took the simple $10 part and replace the pot sensor plastic and (sub par) copper spring out of the part and put it in my controller. i am glad to see more and more people coming to the same conclusion that i did. FU Nintendo

Hasn't been working for me. May be time to have a look inside

Sadly no.

Put 2 layers of electrical tape around the skinny part of the stick and re-calibrate. You don't even need to take it apart.

Actually you should just cut the pins from the bad unit, then heat the solder and remove the pins one by one with pliers. then clean off all the solder with the wick.

pretty much same for me too =(

This has nothing to do with the quality of the product idiot. The Switch Pro Controller is literally the highest quality controller for any platform. Any controller can get defective sticks if the person using it doesn't use it with care.

@@ppvsonicspy I mean if it's the damn joystick that broke then that's not the users fault they were just using it how they were supposed to

I don't think you can

Replacing the sticks with metal sticks that don't grind into a fine powder.

yup u can as seen in their teardowns,the xbox one,dualshock and switch pro controller all use the same joystick from Alps so youre good bro

OMG same its so annoying

Do you know what kind of spring we would buy to do that on a Switch Pro Controller? Maybe you could link it, if it's not too much trouble. Thanks.

sorry for late reply, if you have problems send a friend request on discord and i'll send some pictures.

how do I open the side of the pot sensor so i can get to the spring?

The process is the same on the right side and I beleive the part is universal for both sides.

Benjamin Sumner same

this is what i did with my first controller at walmart. first one lasted 6 months or so then the second and third were drifting from day one. on the third controller walmart stopped carrying and offered only a refund. i purchased a forth controller and worked out the problem with my back-up controller. i still have to open clean or replace the pot sensor spring every few months. i always wash my hands wipe off my controller before a gaming session.

heydo6 good to know

"Should have just committed fraud"

Unfortunately yes.

I’m gunna go buy a GameCube controller , pro controller just started drifting down today. I don’t beat it up either. So sad man

had mine for about 2 months for the left analog stick to break. The problem with the drifting was caused by the module inside. It physically had trouble to center itself causing the analog stick to be slightly off center causing a drift ingame. The drift would go away if I simply centered the analog stick but would return if I pressed it in any direction. I opened the controller and there was no sign of gunk jamming the mechanism. This was simply "wear and tear". I am perplexed it happened to a 2 month old controller, and I wasn't playing THAT much on my switch. I paid quite a lot of money for this "pro" controller only to find out cheap and faulty parts are being used to make them. I never had this problem with PS3/4 controllers. Nintendo sucks ass when it comes to controller quality.

MysticDragons I’ve always had this problem with controllers to be honest. They are made poorly inside. I think it has also a lot to do with what games you play. Most games use the left stick for movement. Depending on what game you playing , you might move the sticks back and forth quickly. In a game callled super smash bros you have to erratically move it to get out of attacks. But even for FPS games say fortnite, the controller can take a beating from always clicking in the analog to run In quick jerky movements. It is a scam how much company charge for new controller yet make the inside so delicate and poorly crafted.

@@MysticDragons same 2 month and it's dead

You could try pressing down really hard on the screw with the correct bit. If that doesn’t work you could try other bits. A small flat heat could work too.

i know this is a year ago but THE SAME THING HAPPEND TO ME YESTERDAY i had to drill out the beside the nail and use pliers to twist it

you maybe bought a wired one?