😂

Fantastic ❤

I met with an inspector for a home I was buying and that's what the inspector told me to do. I just made sure I had shoes that didn't leave scuffs and gave it a quick kick. Easy fix.

Awesome idea !!

This is what I did.

@@DonLicuala We haven't used that crap for years, and none of the architects are specifying it anymore. I'm surprised you even use it on rentals. This technique is still useful though - it can be used on click vinyl plank etc.

U saved me so much frustration..thanku so much I thought my floor was just stuck like that unless i redid it !!

@@serenity3526 You might just be able to kick the planks back into place with rubber-soled shoes. That works fine most of the time, but if not, this gadget is easy to make. Buy one of those rubber drawer liners (it looks like a sort of mesh) and use contact cement to glue it to a piece of wood. When it is dry, put something soft over the top (we use a piece of rubber sports flooring, but anything will do) and kneel on it to apply pressure to the plank. Then, just tap it with a rubber mallet. Use many small taps instead of trying to hit it really hard. Also, it helps if you position the device on the opposite end of the plank to where the gap is. If you place it too near the gap, the weight of you kneeling on it can sometimes warp the plank enough to prevent it from smoothly clicking into place.

Thanku so much God bless

@@thepenultimateninja5797 Yep, rubber soled shoes! That's what I did, carpet tape risks tearing off the veneer.

That's what I do with mine all the time... success rate 100% on a simple tongue & groove system. Don't know if it works on a click system

Yup, this is the easiest way. Don't use black-soled shoes :)

That would make a gap on the other side huh. No way you're moving a whole row like that

sounds like it'll just get undone as soon as someone walks on it if it's that easy though.

@@samuelbankston2108 I pick the closest wall that has baseboard and quarter round, and "pull" from that side. I've yet to have a situation where the end cut under the baseboard gets exposed. If the pieces separated like the example in the video, they were not very strong to begin with (even on the long edge), so they will slide with a few well placed kicks.

I have gaps since our house is very old and flexing in the changing temps, and was fretting about these gaps, and this too has made me so happy!

Ha I just posted that. It's legit all you need.

Will this work the other way to. As in not end gap but a side gap. I laid some hybrid flooring last week. A couple of gaps have appeared along the length. Or part of the overlap of two planks.

@@liamjenkins82 yes

@@kentuckybeardsman cheers mate.

Kicking with good rubber soles, could probably do it, since they have been kicked open because of ordinary walking.

This

I also came here to say this. Use a suction cup dingus! There are cheap and easy to find and will not damage the floor.

I've tried a suction cup. It does not work very well if the floor is textured as it's hard to get a good seal.

@@davebaker1325 I also came here to say this

Does not work with deeply textured planks.

Funky dance moves is the best way for sure 👍

Do Lakai's work well for this?

Your videos are dope 🤙🏼

Same here 😂

Won't work on the pieces close to the baseboard. Also I've had the gaps on the long side of the board - bad install - and this trick works great for that.

I do this kind of work all the time. I’ve never used fishing line, or even heard of that. That is an awesome idea. Thanks for that tip.

@@Beefeater911 just like flossing teeth. Back and forth motion

@@Chris-lz7sx the people in the buildings I repair now, use double sided tape on the walls all the time. I’ve been using a putty knife to remove things they hang. It works, but fishing line would be much quicker I think.

@@Beefeater911 Yes a fine line will do the trick

Try 30-40lb test braid. Use a piece of dowel for a handles on both ends as it will cut your hands. Like a tiny round razor blade. Wicked sharp. Think PVC cable saw only much thinner.

Can also use a rubber mallet. Have some stand on one of the planks on that run within a couple feet of the gap, then take your mallet and hit it at an angle on the plank next to the gap on the other side towards the gap.

Install shoe molding on it you’ll never have a gap problem

@@trokerolokochon9423 well, shoe molding would go on top to cover your edge gaps. Theoretically if you had enough downward pressure on your shoe molding it would hold the vinyl planks in place, I just don't know if you can do it in practice.

maybe too late for you but.... take tiles out of box, separate ie spread around room and leave 24 hrs prior to gluing. edit. just realised u guys are talkin those expensive wood laminate planks. I'm thinking vynal strip tiles. my mistake.

@@DirkDaJerk not to mention shoe molding looks like shit.

I have done the same thing. You can get a single suction cup or double suction cup with a long handle for more leverage. I got mine at Princess Auto.

Same here, except I use a cheap $3 plastic one from Harbor Freight and it has lasted me for years.

Have you done this on textured LVP or just the smooth laminate?

Best tip here

DUDE, great tip, I have a couple of those and I'm getting ready to lay some flooring. (this should be pinned).

Man after 8 years I think I woulda just pulled it and fixed it 😂

If you're installing floors for 15 year's there shouldn't be and gaps 🔨

@@tomsmith9048 Read his comment again. Its sarcasm. Use a pull bar.

@@tomakafrankconlon3207 it's the gaps that worry me 🙄

Most of the time you can just kick it back into place. Try that first. Double sided tape is a last resort. The strong tape is usually meant to be permanent so you'll be cleaning off the adhesive which is a pain.

This is how my floors are.

Why do they separate in thd 1st place?? Seems like an ongoing issue with these types of floors.

Hey can you provide a link to a mat that would work in this scenario?

Just kick it using rubber soled shoes. Much easier than all this faffing about.

You need to get out more

@@ianbrown_ an intelligent response for sure

and streaks on the floor :)

Sounds goofy as hell. Insert a ouuu to every single word you speak 😅

Same here, except I use a cheap $3 plastic one and it has lasted me for years.

I just came across this video and read several comments like this one but one thing none of them mention the small pieces described in the video. How are you going to fix those with suction cups?

Same here.

I thought he was going to cut off a sliver of that block of wood.

I used a big suction cup for glass, and then tapped on it. Worked like a charm.

I tried the suction cups they didn't work at all so probably avoid that

Did you ever get an answer to this question? I have the same.

@@sethellsworth5695 no. I sure wish someone would let us know, though.

🤣

I know an installer that I used to work with. One day he had a gap in a 3/4" install that wouldn't move. Instead of using the proper filler we use in small gaps he decided to fill it with outdoor caulking.......

That's what I'm wondering. And it's in the middle of the room.

means you had a bad install

he doesn't say how to fix the other end either

Super glue

There is no "lock" on the ends! The joint you are referring to is on both sides of each plank (one side the grove is in the up direction the other side the grove is in the down direction). Nowhere in this video did he show a situation like you describe. The lock on the sides of each plank are designed to prevent lateral movement only.