As a Professional Automotive Engineer of 40 years, I'm used to using the 8D method of problem resolution. The first step is to identify ROOT CAUSE. Without root cause you cannot develop a robust solution. Then I can develop a DIY solution (not necessarily the same as a 'factory' solution) that anyone can use. Or, at least, that's what I try to do. Glad I succeeded this time and thank you for the kind words.

First time i have heard of this idea. Genius.

You are welcome Blu.

👍

It's 2 1/2 years now since I did this and they are still holding strong. No signs of corrosion

Great to hear!

Awesome! I must get a link to some suitable clips in the description. Something I forgot to include in the video (and didn't do to mine, gggrrr!) - give the body studs a wire brushing and treat with rust converter before putting your shield back. Slows down the corrosion process.

Here in the UK if you pull off one of these on the bodywork that'll be okay, but if you remove one from around the fuel tank it will fail it's MoT. I have found though, that ones fitted around tanks are held in place differently and don't come loose so easy.

Here in Northern Ireland, I've never had one fail on heat shields. Although our government run testing centres are very lenient. The test only lasts 20 minutes too. It's scary some of the passes I've seen.

@@nothingmuch.3014 yeah, I should have said Great Britain rather than UK, but I didn't know where you were and most people around the world recognise UK better. The NI MoT is different. In all seriousness: with most tanks being plastic now, try to fix loose shields on tanks. In the UK climate the fire risk is very small, but it does exist.

Cheers Martin

Thanks.

Or treat the stud with a rust converter. It typically lasts 6-8 years, which is plenty long enough to be well out of warranty

@@CycloneCyd 👍 similar with the wheel arch liner plastic hex nuts, if you are not careful they snap the stud off!

Nice work! Many ways to skin a cat and all that 👍 Happy to get your creative engineering juices flowing

Fantastic!

Also the dome shape helps the 'washers' to fit into the depression around the fixings. Which is there to give an air gap between the shield and body. the shield reflects radiant heat and the air gap prevents conduction 👍

Yeah, the weather has picked up in the last few weeks. About time. Whereabouts in Lancs? I was born in Davyhulme and my Mum grew up there. I grew up in Timperley after we moved when I was 6.

No problem 👍

home pics? Huh?

@@CycloneCyd Not at a professional shop, taking pics at home, duh.

@@kanth66 ah, right. Thanks

👍👍

Great to hear!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks Mohammad, 👍

Simple, but effective. The sort of repairs I like.

Glad you like them and hope you find them useful or maybe learn something new (learning is always good)

@@CycloneCyd have been following you and have learned good things, I'll put in pratice this last lesson having some rattling noise and my heat shilde is touching the flor if I have the car full

@@nunograca7416 let us know how you get on, please

Glue in place with Stixall or Tiger Seal

Adding a new one over the old one is quite a good idea. let us know how you get on

@@CycloneCyd it seemed to work. The aluminum cans worked great. What's even better is I used wing nuts which was much easier to install from that awkward position.

My younger son is a 3rd yr apprentice with Crown - one of the world's biggest can manufacturers! It's very simple: the can is either aluminium or steel. If it's magnetic it's steel. Cans are the same the world over.

This isn't absolute, but as a rule of thumb, drinks cans are aluminium, food cans are steel

@@CycloneCyd Thank you for your answer. If I understand well, if the can has the magnetic symbol then you should not use it for the purpose you've shown in your video but get instead one made of aluminium (no magnet symbol & magnets do not 'stick' to it).

@@SerbanCMusca-ut8ny spot on, you got it

Yeah, JB is great - i once fixed a cracked head with it on a rally car. It lasted two rallies before I had to do it again before I eventually welded it.

@@CycloneCyd ive done it on the 9-5 a had and a landrover worked for 3 years on both but faild on the landrover at the 3 year mark and sold the 9-5 recently...massive regret.. i now have the new 2021 corsa elite. Very smooooth as they say, gota to admit pulls harder and faster in 1 or 2nd not sure but then thats it realy the sabb had forever lasting power after that lol i miss her but still love your vids please keep any vids tips nd tricks coming, as allways THANK YOU.

Appreciate it!!

Glad it helped!

Yeah, a bit crusty. They are Maptun springs, so I'm gonna remove them, clean them up and treat with a rust converter and see if that will extend their life.

Thanks!

Can you not drop the exhaust down like I did with the Saab? Alternatively use a few big 'splodges' of Stixall to hold the shield in place, it's brilliant stuff but try to put it away from the boxes amzn.to/3WeW2F8

Thanks, I've actually been doing this for years. Some people take loose heat shields off, but back in my rallying days it wasn't unknown for the heat from exhausts to set fire to the underseal! We also had to remove the sound pads stuck on our rally car floor as they bubbled up due to the heat (saved a load of weight too).

@@CycloneCyd wow, i do like to keep on for the same reasons, there there for a reason... lol, but your way with the metals not been able to corrode properly should be Impliacecated into the automotive industry.

head unit or multi player in the boot? If the former, you can replace it with the same but it will need 'marrying' to the car with Tech 2

@@CycloneCyd thanks for the reply, guess I'll stick with minidisc (yes i admit it I'm old) and phone through the aux

Thanks

Huh?